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2022 Bolt EUV Launch Edition Ghost Grey
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to seek additional guidance from the folks that have successfully done their own tire rotations at home. Definitely interested in doing this as well because I figured it would take much less time to do this as opposed to bringing it to the dealer or a tire shop or even Costco.

I've read the 3 relevant threads in the forum related to it (jack points, tire rotation, spare tire), and here's what I have:
1. Need a floor jack and 2 jack stands. (Already have a breaker and torque wrench)
2. Need a TPMS reset / relearn tool (recommendations already given).
3. Jacking / lifting points as described in the service manual - image provided by @timeToy (reattached for reference)

So my questions for the Bolt-rotating pioneers would be:
- What type of jack stand is ideal for the Bolt lift points?
- How does the jack stand ideally interface with the lift points?

The reason I ask the second question is that most of the jack stands I've seen online and in-store appear to be well-suited for traditional pinch welds, which the Bolt doesn't seem to have, as one user had pointed out (with pictures). From reading the prior threads, it's either through the rounded interfaces (which is where I plan on jacking the car from, on point #3 since some users have reported that this is sufficient to jack up one entire side of the Bolt), or on the flat part of the outer rocker panel (points 1 and 2 on the diagram).

Just want to make sure I purchase the correct (and safe) equipment for the job. I plan on purchasing a floor jack and 2 jack stands (as recommended) that are rated to handle at least 3 tons. Thank you in advance for any recommendations, it would certainly be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Forgot to mention, I also plan on purchasing this "puck" from Amazon for the floor jack so that it interfaces better with jack point #3 from the diagram:


I was trying to find a pre-made adapter that would provide a similar interface for the pinch-weld type jack stands, but no such luck. (And that's why I've come back to the forum for help.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does the suspension have good places for the jack stands? I've not tried on the Bolt yet.
Good question, and I have no idea what the answer is. :p I've actually never done tire rotations myself, but after reading this forum, it feels relatively simple once you have the proper equipment and information. As mentioned, the main motivation for my doing this is to avoid trips to the dealer (or any other maintenance place) as much as I can. (I feel like I've wasted a good chunk of my life driving to and from the dealer and sitting in their waiting areas. The less of this I can do moving forward, the better.)
 

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Good question, and I have no idea what the answer is. :p I've actually never done tire rotations myself, but after reading this forum, it feels relatively simple once you have the proper equipment and information. As mentioned, the main motivation for my doing this is to avoid trips to the dealer (or any other maintenance place) as much as I can. (I feel like I've wasted a good chunk of my life driving to and from the dealer and sitting in their waiting areas. The less of this I can do moving forward, the better.)
Here's one thread where @DanBraz had a picture using a jack stand: https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/228658-post108.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tangential to the conversation, to be safe make sure you chock or put a block behind a rear wheel if you jack up the front first, or vice versa.
Thanks for the recommendation! I was actually planning on putting the wheel chocks on the wheels on the side opposite from where I'd be jacking - from what I've read here on the forum, folks who have jacked up the Bolt on the front "dimple" jacking point end up lifting the entire side of the vehicle.
 

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12/16 build, 2017, white LT
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Thanks for the recommendation! I was actually planning on putting the wheel chocks on the wheels on the side opposite from where I'd be jacking - from what I've read here on the forum, folks who have jacked up the Bolt on the front "dimple" jacking point end up lifting the entire side of the vehicle.
I use a floor jack, and my S-10 scissors jack to rotate tires on the Bolt, with wheel chocks front and back, opposite from the side I am lifting. When I swap the fronts, I have the chocks behind both rear wheels. A single jack at the front will definitely lift the whole side, but I wouldn't trust it while pulling the rear wheel off. I use the lift pads under the car only. If you use the pinch welds, I would definitely want those rubber blocks with the slot in them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I use a floor jack, and my S-10 scissors jack to rotate tires on the Bolt, with wheel chocks front and back, opposite from the side I am lifting. When I swap the fronts, I have the chocks behind both rear wheels. A single jack at the front will definitely lift the whole side, but I wouldn't trust it while pulling the rear wheel off. I use the lift pads under the car only. If you use the pinch welds, I would definitely want those rubber blocks with the slot in them.
Thanks! Hmmm... Based on your thoughts, I might just buy a set of 4 jack stands then, just to be safe. I was just planning on lifting one side, then set that side on jack stands, go over to the other side and lift that side with the floor jack, and take off all 4 wheels to do the GM-recommended rotation of the forward cross. Now I might just lift and set on 4 jack stands.

Hey - quick question: When you mean "use the lift pads under the car only," did you mean the dimpled ones? So your setup involves a floor jack on one dimple and the S-10 on the other? Are you able to accomplish the forward cross with this setup?
 

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Hey - quick question: When you mean "use the lift pads under the car only," did you mean the dimpled ones? So your setup involves a floor jack on one dimple and the S-10 on the other? Are you able to accomplish the forward cross with this setup?
Yes.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/322625-post158.html

This jack is one of the taller S-10 jacks. It works perfectly at both ends. The ones with the shorter dimple section have trouble at the rear, where the pad is up in a tight spot.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15602&d=1515171603

I lift the left side first with the two jacks, flip front to back, and back to front. I then lift the right side with the two jacks, and flip rear to front, then drop the rear jack. I jack up the left front, and flip right and left front. This means pulling the left front twice, but I don't torque it down when I move the left rear to the front. Just tight enough to hold that corner up while I do the right side. I never have more than two wheels off the ground at any time. Call me cautious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/322625-post158.html

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15602&d=1515171603

I lift the left side first with the two jacks, flip front to back, and back to front. I then lift the right side with the two jacks, and flip rear to front, then drop the rear jack. I jack up the left front, and flip right and left front. This means pulling the left front twice, but I don't torque it down when I move the left rear to the front. Just tight enough to hold that corner up while I do the right side. I never have more than two wheels off the ground at any time. Call me cautious.
Interesting! That should definitely work. And you might have just saved me some $$ - I already have the S10 jack (as part of the full-size spare setup), so with your workflow I'll only need to get the floor jack. (Which renders the current thread topic in question - "Jack stand recommendations" - a potentially moot point. :p ) Many, many thanks!
 

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Can you tell if this is the right one? (not sure how to spot the shorter dimple section). Thanks!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-S10-Pickup-GMC-Sonoma-Tire-Jack-tool-94-2005plus-OEM-never-used/183451400008
First off. From what I have seen, it appears GM had more than two suppliers for these jacks. I have seen them with the dimpled channel no taller than the scissors

https://dudazps6njn84.cloudfront.net/00/s/MTA2M1gxNjAw/z/6K8AAOSwIzBbKRbV/$_57.JPG?set_id=8800005007

to some perhaps two inches above the scissors. Here is the one you referenced

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ZSwAAOSwPb9akCL4/s-l1600.jpg

which is not the shortest I have seen, but definitely shorter than mine,

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15602&d=1515171603

and perhaps too short.

Here is another that appears tall enough.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SOYAAOSwhglTwYvv/s-l1600.jpg

I hope this helps with your search.
 

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Yes.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/322625-post158.html

This jack is one of the taller S-10 jacks. It works perfectly at both ends. The ones with the shorter dimple section have trouble at the rear, where the pad is up in a tight spot.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15602&d=1515171603

I lift the left side first with the two jacks, flip front to back, and back to front. I then lift the right side with the two jacks, and flip rear to front, then drop the rear jack. I jack up the left front, and flip right and left front. This means pulling the left front twice, but I don't torque it down when I move the left rear to the front. Just tight enough to hold that corner up while I do the right side. I never have more than two wheels off the ground at any time. Call me cautious.
I use the same technique, but I use two compact hydraulic jacks with jack pads I made myself to fit the factory lift points. No issue reaching the rear lift points. The jacks can be locked using included steel pins. I don’t see that jack design anymore, but it looks pretty secure to me. I would never get under a car that’s only supported by a jack, but for rotating tires it works well.

I’m sure some owners put the car up on four jack stands, but I’d rather leave two wheels on the ground, and it only takes a few more minutes to do the front wheel left-right swap after swapping the tires on each side.

One additional recommendation would be a 25” breaker bar. I got one at Harbor Freight for about $15, and it loosens the lug nuts effortlessly. Archimedes was right.
 

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I use the same technique, but I use two compact hydraulic jacks with jack pads I made myself to fit the factory lift points. No issue reaching the rear lift points. The jacks can be locked using included steel pins. I don’t see that jack design anymore, but it looks pretty secure to me. I would never get under a car that’s only supported by a jack, but for rotating tires it works well.

I’m sure some owners put the car up on four jack stands, but I’d rather leave two wheels on the ground, and it only takes a few more minutes to do the front wheel left-right swap after swapping the tires on each side.

One additional recommendation would be a 25” breaker bar. I got one at Harbor Freight for about $15, and it loosens the lug nuts effortlessly. Archimedes was right.

"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world."

-Archimedes
 

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This might have been mentioned before but I break every lug nut before I lift the car, this way there is less danger of applying force to an unstable mass.
I used to do that until I got an impact driver as advised by some wise sage on this forum. You don't need a big lever arm to apply the force, and wow does it make removing wheels easy! I wish I'd have gotten one of these 40 years ago...
 
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