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Just after washing the my Bolt and driving it a loud screeching noise began emanating from the front left wheel area. I suspect that a rock from washing the car became dislodged from somewhere nearby and is now between the brake rotor and the back plate and is causing the noise. I would like to remove the wheel and examine it to see if there is a rock and If I can remove it, however there is nothing in the user manual that illustrates where the jacking points are for this vehicle. Can anyone share any information on where the jacking points are and what type of jack should be used?
 

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From Oldskybolt, Chevy Bolt Forum, 4/19/17: "I'd suggest talking to your Chevy dealer's service department and getting a copy of the Bolt EV Service Manual - Document 4538698. This shows the underside of the Bolt and ... the image and points for 'Lift and Jacking the Vehicle'." There are no marked points on the Bolt's underside.
 

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From Oldskybolt, Chevy Bolt Forum, 4/19/17: "I'd suggest talking to your Chevy dealer's service department and getting a copy of the Bolt EV Service Manual - Document 4538698. This shows the underside of the Bolt and ... the image and points for 'Lift and Jacking the Vehicle'." There are no marked points on the Bolt's underside.
It is amazing that information is not readily available. Of course, they don't provide a tire or a jack. I guess that is progress.
 

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NY-Rob: good diagram, and thanks. But if one is working on the rear wheel, which location is suitable for the jack, "3"?

If one is rotating tires, one must put a jackstand under the end where you just removed the wheel in order to move the jack to the opposite end to lift & remove/change the wheel. This requires a second point of support at the end which was first lifted. Is this what locations 1 & 2 are for? i.e. lower the (now wheel-less) vehicle onto the jackstand to support the weight, but not used for the "lifting"?
 

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NY-Rob: good diagram, and thanks. But if one is working on the rear wheel, which location is suitable for the jack...
Can't answer that as I only had to remove one front wheel to see if my new rims fit and to see if the Volt TPMS sensors worked worked with the Bolt.
I haven't had to remove a rear wheel yet so I really haven't look around under there much for supports.

When I rotate tires- I swap front to back, I don't cross sides... so I jack up the whole side of the car at one time using two floor jacks (chocking the wheels on the opposite side) to get both wheels on one side off the ground at the same time to do the rotation. I haven't done a rotation on my Bolt yet as I'm not quite at even 5K miles yet.
 

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I just went out to the car with a mirror, and flashlight to confirm. If you look at the page I linked to, you will see eight convex mounds, with holes in the center. They correspond to the red boxes marked on the above diagram. I assume they are stamped in a convex bowel shape, because it is much more resistant to caving in than flat metal would be. They could have used heavier flat metal, but they are trying to save weight. Thankfully, they are engineers, not neanderthals.
 

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Can't answer that as I only had to remove one front wheel to see if my new rims fit and to see if the Volt TPMS sensors worked worked with the Bolt.
I haven't had to remove a rear wheel yet so I really haven't look around under there much for supports.

When I rotate tires- I swap front to back, I don't cross sides... so I jack up the whole side of the car at one time using two floor jacks (chocking the wheels on the opposite side) to get both wheels on one side off the ground at the same time to do the rotation. I haven't done a rotation on my Bolt yet as I'm not quite at even 5K miles yet.
But this plan requires two floor jacks which most individuals will not have.
 

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Did you figure out how to jack the Bolt and land it on a jack stand? The two support points look too close to safely jack the car and lower it onto a jack stand.

NY-Rob: good diagram, and thanks. But if one is working on the rear wheel, which location is suitable for the jack, "3"?

If one is rotating tires, one must put a jackstand under the end where you just removed the wheel in order to move the jack to the opposite end to lift & remove/change the wheel. This requires a second point of support at the end which was first lifted. Is this what locations 1 & 2 are for? i.e. lower the (now wheel-less) vehicle onto the jackstand to support the weight, but not used for the "lifting"?
 

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Always thought that buying a compact floor jack would be a great idea and often you can get them for cheap. Also this being a weight conscious community you can also find them in aluminum, so you won't be adding much weight at all to your Bolt, and load/unload will be easy.
 

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Yes, and I just found the S-10/Blazer jack on eBay for $35. It had a bit of rust on it, but nothing a wire brush won't fix.

I can confirm that this jack will enable changing a tire in all all four positions.

The round-hole jack receptacle area for the front wheel is more obvious. There are two just back of the front wheel.

At the rear, there are two round-hole jack receptacles, up in the frame, more hidden, and only the hole toward the front of the car allows access to the lifting portion of the jack without the jack's impinging on any portion of the body. The clearance is close, but it works.
 

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Its true, most won't need it and from what I noticed with the overall EV demographic is that they aren't all that hands on and live in busy city centers. So when you need servicing, its all local and easy to request. If that keeps up it will become more uncommon to see owners with tools.
 

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Did you figure out how to jack the Bolt and land it on a jack stand? The two support points look too close to safely jack the car and lower it onto a jack stand.
I successfully rotated my tires yesterday without issue, but I spent a *lot* of time trying to figure out where to land the car on a jack stand while I removed the other wheels. Raising the car via the obvious lift points behind the front left wheel, I lowered the car onto a jack stand supporting the frame just rearward of the lift point. That seemed to work OK. I found no obvious equivalent points near the rear wheels.
 

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I took pictures of what seems to be the rear (not so obvious) and front (quite obvious) jacking points on my Bolt EV. The rear ones are quite deep and more difficult to access. Do you think these are the correct points? I couldn't find anything else that made sense. Plus in the service manual's diagram (I assume this is where NY-Rob got it), points 1, 2, and 4 don't seem very sturdy.

Notice from the pictures a wear spot that could be from the factory's hydraulic lift. What do you think?
 

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