Thanks for posting these pictures. I just took delivery of my Bolt and the front jacking points were pretty obvious but at a quick glance I couldn't figure where the rear ones are. Now I'll know what to look for.I took pictures of what seems to be the rear (not so obvious) and front (quite obvious) jacking points on my Bolt EV.
are the rear points at different levels? is there a special adapter to hit both of them at the same time? or is there room to jack at one circle and get a jackstand under the other one?I took pictures of what seems to be the rear (not so obvious) and front (quite obvious) jacking points on my Bolt EV. The rear ones are quite deep and more difficult to access. Do you think these are the correct points? I couldn't find anything else that made sense. Plus in the service manual's diagram (I assume this is where NY-Rob got it), points 1, 2, and 4 don't seem very sturdy.
Notice from the pictures a wear spot that could be from the factory's hydraulic lift. What do you think?
The two circular holes in the rear jacking points are at the same level.are the rear points at different levels? is there a special adapter to hit both of them at the same time? or is there room to jack at one circle and get a jackstand under the other one?
NY-Rob, did you get the 100 ft-lbs setting from the service manual? Other source? I used your recommended setting to install my winter wheels. Thanks for confirming.
I managed to find an S-10/Blazer jack at my local scrap yard for the princely sum of $6.25. I just got around to trying it on the Bolt - I didn't try the rear round-hole jacking points but I was able to confirm that I can use the jack on the front round-hole jacking point to raise the entire side of the car so that you can change the front or rear wheel. That works especially well if you have to use a limited-service spare when you have a flat front wheel - since both wheels on one side are off the ground it's pretty easy to swap the spare for the good tire on the rear wheel and then move that wheel to the front (because you don't want to run the car with the limited service spare on the steering/drive wheels).Yes, and I just found the S-10/Blazer jack on eBay for $35. It had a bit of rust on it, but nothing a wire brush won't fix.
I can confirm that this jack will enable changing a tire in all all four positions.
The round-hole jack receptacle area for the front wheel is more obvious. There are two just back of the front wheel.
At the rear, there are two round-hole jack receptacles, up in the frame, more hidden, and only the hole toward the front of the car allows access to the lifting portion of the jack without the jack's impinging on any portion of the body. The clearance is close, but it works.
Rob, could you please repost the jacking points diagram?
Obviously, service jack points (me in the garage) are 1 & 4.
Shop lift points are 1 & 2. Use 1 & 2 for jack stands as well, using pads.
(I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed so it takes me a while....)
I'm going to paint my calipers bright ford blue ... caliper covers are expensive.
And don't caliper covers invite moisture, mag chloride?