Yeah, it would be cool if GM placed a placard on the frame or battery showing the jacking points.
According to GM, both the factory lift points and the rocker panels may be used. I’ve had no issues using either, and the very solid factory lift points did not deform, or show any signs of wear at all.Guys, don't mess around trying to reach those factory lift points, when you can just use the pinch welds! Out of curiosity I tried one of these so-called factory lift spots, it started to deform immediately when my jack made contact with it. Suggesting to use these is bad advice IMO... and runs counter to what is stated in the service manual images posted in this thread.
Unibody construction is your friend and it means something exciting: you can put jacks, jack stands under the rocker panel pinch welds just like the service manual says. Just like you can on pretty much all modern cars. These are designed for lifting the car, and are the easiest, safest place to reach with a jack and stands. I used them and saw only a tiny scuff on the edge where it contacted the jackstand, no deforming, no problems.
When using the factory lift points you need to either use a jack that’s designed to fit those jack points, or use a jack pad that will fit. A standard jack designed to lift at the rocker panels won’t work, as you discovered.Umm sure except I don't have the lift they use at the factory so I go by what the service page says for "service jack" which is what I'm doing. And like I said, the factory lift points *deformed* when my jack (which is a different shape from the factory lift) contacted them. The rocker pinch did not.
To each his own, i just like following the book. and not bending things
I think most of us who are using the factory lift points are using a jack like the ones made for the Chevy S10 - they have a flat surface with a circular bulge in the middle designed to fit into the lift point's hole so that the jack won't slip horizontally.And like I said, the factory lift points *deformed* when my jack (which is a different shape from the factory lift) contacted them.
I learned from here that there are at least three types of S-10 jacks. Be sure to buy the type in the photo above, with the raised platform with dimple. The other two have shorter (less height) parts with the same dimple.I think most of us who are using the factory lift points are using a jack like the ones made for the Chevy S10 - they have a flat surface with a circular bulge in the middle designed to fit into the lift point's hole so that the jack won't slip horizontally.
That was pretty good. I saw one teeny nit picking error, you sid to "Remove the Tire CHOKE" 0I just swapped one of my Bolt's tires to winters and documented some of the highlights on video.
It's just uploaded a 6 minute video on youtube with minimal editing; sorry folks I'm not a video professional
Hope this helps some of you who are confused about the jack points on this vehicle.
My Bolts are equipped with Nokian WRG4 all weather tires but my wife insisted she use proper winter tires during winter time.
Note: I'm not a professional mechanic so if what I'm doing is wrong, let me know
Two good tips, Thanks. My orange relearn tool worked great, but I understand some others' didn't. The WalMart LED light I put in the charge port door needed the button battery replaced after only a few days. Replaced it with a name brand, and it has worked ever since.I used the Re-Learn tool (an orange unit) that was shown on another thread. It didn't work the first 2 times I tried. However, I noticed the red "Low Battery" light flashed a wee bit, even though I had a new battery in it. I swapped for another new Duracell, & noticed the GREEN light was quite a bit brighter. It worked fine after that.
Suggest those who couldn't get their tool to work, try a brand new battery.
I see they also use a single screw in the brake rotor, used to hold the rotor in place during assembly. These have a nasty habit of becoming one with the rotor, especially for those who drive in a winter salt environment. I take them out & toss them, now, while it is still easy. They complicate an eventual brake job by a huge factor if you cant get them out. I know, I know, these rotors are not SUPPOSED to rust, but 15 seconds of prevention might save you hours.
So the referenced screws are not needed? They are just left there but serve no purpose? Or am I missing something?I see they also use a single screw in the brake rotor, used to hold the rotor in place during assembly. These have a nasty habit of becoming one with the rotor, especially for those who drive in a winter salt environment. I take them out & toss them, now, while it is still easy.
During assembly, they hold the rotor to the hub,(the wheels/tires are installed later), this allows more room to maneuver than if the wheel was put on at this time.So the referenced screws are not needed? They are just left there but serve no purpose? Or am I missing something?
OK, thanks. So if the car is ever on a lift for some reason and I have removed these bolts then I might be creating a safety problem for some mechanic in the future. Maybe an anti-sieze compound (Never-seez) will allow the best of both worlds?They serve no purpose once the wheel nuts are torqued. If you have a garage hoist, they can be seen as a bit of a safety item, as they won't let the rotor fall off on your head if the vehicle is lifted high enough to walk underneath.
I don't think it matters, your local NAPA, or AutoZone in the States, or Canadian Tire in Canada will have rattle cans of the stuff. As long as its something that dries to a stiff consistency, so it won't migrate & end up on your rotors or brake pads. Remember, if a dab works, 20 dabs isn't 20 times as good!What is a common / good - brand/type? (Thanks!)