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That was pretty good. I saw one teeny nit picking error, you sid to "Remove the Tire CHOKE" 0:)
I use the same type of 3 ton floor jack, they can be had on sale at Costco for $130, & will jack pretty much everything in the barn.
As you showed, a couple pieces of 2x4 screwed together, (or a scrap of 4x4), make a suitable shim for the back. If you don't want to do that, if you just jack the front a bit higher, it will lift the rear wheel also, & you can do them both.
I used the Re-Learn tool (an orange unit) that was shown on another thread. It didn't work the first 2 times I tried. However, I noticed the red "Low Battery" light flashed a wee bit, even though I had a new battery in it. I swapped for another new Duracell, & noticed the GREEN light was quite a bit brighter. It worked fine after that.
Suggest those who couldn't get their tool to work, try a brand new battery.
One other item I noticed. With the factory wheels, the axle/bearing nut is fully covered by the design of the wheel. This is not the case once you swap to steelies & hubcap.

I once had a Honda rust this area quite badly, I suggest giving the area a squirt of anti rust, such as you would use on the edge of hoods, doors etc.

I see they also use a single screw in the brake rotor, used to hold the rotor in place during assembly. These have a nasty habit of becoming one with the rotor, especially for those who drive in a winter salt environment. I take them out & toss them, now, while it is still easy. They complicate an eventual brake job by a huge factor if you cant get them out. I know, I know, these rotors are not SUPPOSED to rust, but 15 seconds of prevention might save you hours.

If you lease, or don't plan on keeping your Bolt forever, disregard.
Quick note, that Costco Arcan 3-ton jack is now only $99 online at Costco.com.

That’s a bargain, and it comes with the very generous Costco guarantee, bring it back at any time for any reason for a full refund.
 

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OK, thanks. So if the car is ever on a lift for some reason and I have removed these bolts then I might be creating a safety problem for some mechanic in the future. Maybe an anti-sieze compound (Never-seez) will allow the best of both worlds?
Since we do all work in house, I toss them. Generally after a few years, (unless you live in AZ, or NM type climates), the rotor gets stuck to the hub anyway, & won't fall off without some persuasion. (I had to use an air chisel on the '99 Sienna to separate a rear rotor from hub last month, but I have winter salt, & used the Sienna to put a boat & jetski in several times, immersing the axles).
Anti seize is probably OK, or just tell the service manager,(you rarely speak to the guy twisting wrenches in todays shops), to make a prominent note that the retaining screws are missing. No need to say YOU removed them, ****, they might never have been installed. Wouldn't be the first fastener I've seen Factory Guy miss.
 

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Quick note, that Costco Arcan 3-ton jack is now only $99 online at Costco.com.
That’s a bargain, and it comes with the very generous Costco guarantee, bring it back at any time for any reason for a full refund.
Yes, that's 99 Greenbacks. Cross the 49th parallel, & we pay 130 of our devalued Canadian Pesos! I try to convert units in my posts as most of the readers are in the USA, but sometimes forget.
It is a good deal as a standard 2 ton trolley is usually around $50. This one is also low profile, which you need on the Bolt. The rear has quite a bit more clearance, but the front is pretty close, especially if you want to add a "pad" to the lift arm.
I used this today to rotate the Bolt tires & my neighbors SUV. It is a heck of a lot lighter than the old steel one that finally died, & I couldn't find new seals for.
 

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My orange relearn tool worked great, but I understand some others' didn't.
Yeah, my orange EL-50448 works great too, and it's a lot easier to use than the one shown in his video. Just one button - hold the antenna near the valve stem and push once, then wait until the horn honks.

The one caveat I had was that the 9V battery in mine seemed to run down suspiciously fast, so when I'm not using the tool I've gotten into the habit of flipping the battery around in the battery compartment so that it's not connected.
 

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Yeah, my orange EL-50448 works great too, and it's a lot easier to use than the one shown in his video. Just one button - hold the antenna near the valve stem and push once, then wait until the horn honks.

The one caveat I had was that the 9V battery in mine seemed to run down suspiciously fast, so when I'm not using the tool I've gotten into the habit of flipping the battery around in the battery compartment so that it's not connected.
I think the tool used in the video is of a higher level than the EL-50448. If you look closely, one of the menu items was “make”, or something to that effect. It seemed like he selected his model, leading me to believe that tool can be used for most manufacturers. The Bolt tells us where to start, & sequence, I’m thinking his can select an individual wheel, say if a sensor were replaced. I probably should have sprung for something like that, as I currently cannot talk to my newer Toyota’s.
+1 For turning the battery around. It was rather clever to design the case so that can be done.
 

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I think the tool used in the video is of a higher level than the EL-50448.
Of course! I didn't mean to imply that the EL-50448 is better, just that it's simpler to use. With more capability comes more complexity (and doubtless more cost, too).

I can easily imagine myself having gone for a more universal relearn tool, but when I saw the video I realized that the simplicity of the EL-50448 has its benefits.
 

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Yes, simple is good!

I had 4 breeds in the garage, (thankfully dumped the Benz, it was a Hangar Queen), but still have 3 different makes. I have never owned a re-learn tool, & later thought maybe a Universal one would have been the better choice.
When I bought an OBDII reader, I decided it was better to spend several hundred $, & get a fully functional diagnostics/mapping unit vs something that just reads the code & spits out a number.
Had an issue with the idle air control valve on a older Toyota. Would never have figured out what "short term" & "long Term" fuel trims actually did, & fixed it with a $100 part, (vs $1000 at the Dealer), if I only had the CEL code of "Mixture to Lean Bank 1"

It has been well worth the cost, as some of the fleet is a bit long in the tooth.
I had envisioned a re-learn tool to be costing much more. For the $16 EL-50448 cost, I don't think one can go wrong, especially as it only gets used a couple times/yr.
 

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According to GM, both the factory lift points and the rocker panels may be used. I’ve had no issues using either, and the very solid factory lift points did not deform, or show any signs of wear at all.
I have not been able to find anything on the lift points in the owner's manual. :confused: Where can I find the information you have referenced? Thanks in advance. :)
 

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I have not been able to find anything on the lift points in the owner's manual. :confused: Where can I find the information you have referenced? Thanks in advance. :)
Go to post #26 in this thread. It illustrates the Bolt jack point options.

Either the factory jack points or the pinch welds may be used, and the illustration indicates where those are located.

You’re correct that there’s nothing in the owner’s manual, which isn’t surprising since the Bolt doesn’t come with a spare or jack.

I’ve used both the factory jack points and the pinch welds. When using the pinch welds I added a wood block just inboard of the welds to prevent any bending or marring of the plastic lower body cladding. I created my own DIY jack pads for the factory jack points, they fit inside the holes and provide a very secure lifting area for the jack.

Based on other posts a Chevy S10 scissor jack will also fit the factory lift points, but I prefer using jack pads and a hydraulic jack.
 

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You should own jack stands if you own a jack, for Safty. I always cross front to back and straight forward with back tires as per manual( no tire dealer in last 15 years agrees with any manufacturers) jack up front right and put jack stand under then jack back right put another jack stand then jack back right. Rotate until you need to jack front left side. Takes me less than 15 min. All by hand. Easy piesy Japanesey( quote from Shawshank redemption)
That my 2cents
 

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You should own jack stands if you own a jack, for Safty. I always cross front to back and straight forward with back tires as per manual( no tire dealer in last 15 years agrees with any manufacturers) jack up front right and put jack stand under then jack back right put another jack stand then jack back right. Rotate until you need to jack front left side. Takes me less than 15 min. All by hand. Easy piesy Japanesey( quote from Shawshank redemption)
That my 2cents
Please double-check the tire rotation pattern. The manual shows the front tires are rotated to the rear on the same side, and the rear tires are crossed to the opposite side front.
 

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Front cross or back cross they still make their rotation. I am sure you are correct as per manual but you missed my point of tire stores( and most dealers) don’t cross anymore. They do front to back only.
 

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Front cross or back cross they still make their rotation. I am sure you are correct as per manual but you missed my point of tire stores( and most dealers) don’t cross anymore. They do front to back only.
I didn’t miss your comment on tire stores and dealers, I just wanted to post the recommended tire rotation pattern. Lots of tire stores and dealers don’t follow manufacturer recommendations.
 

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You should own jack stands if you own a jack, for Safty. I always cross front to back and straight forward with back tires as per manual( no tire dealer in last 15 years agrees with any manufacturers) jack up front right and put jack stand under then jack back right put another jack stand then jack back right. Rotate until you need to jack front left side. Takes me less than 15 min. All by hand. Easy piesy Japanesey( quote from Shawshank redemption)
That my 2cents
15 min?! Wow, best I've ever done was about 30 mins and I was huffing/puffing and had a few rotations down already. I'm hoping my new BF gift to myself (impact wrench and torque limiting extension) will shave this down to 15 mins (I lack a cheater bar).
 

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15 min?! Wow, best I've ever done was about 30 mins and I was huffing/puffing and had a few rotations down already.
Using an impact wrench makes a huge difference, although I doubt I could get to all four wheels in 15 minutes even with one. It's a breeze to remove nuts with the impact wrench, and used with a torque stick it's super fast to put the nuts before you cinch them all the way up to the correct tightness with a manual torque wrench.
 

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I learned from here that there are at least three types of S-10 jacks. Be sure to buy the type in the photo above, with the raised platform with dimple. The other two have shorter (less height) parts with the same dimple.
would be awesome if someone had the part number for that jack.
 

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Had two jacks used since previous century...bottle and floor. Glance under and saw assembly line carry points
Since only raised in garage all good. On highway if ever needed and think not it would be roadside assists pervue.
 
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