Chevy Bolt EV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I’m likely taking delivery of new Bolt next week and have been scoping out 110v power options before my Level 2 charger is installed. What’s the length of the charging cord that comes with the vehicle? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
It looks like a 20-25 foot cord. I guess you know the factory supplied charger is 12 amps which adds 4 miles per hour. Hope you get your 240 volt charger soon they are really nice to charge at home with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
I also just noticed that Chevy charges $549 for this bad boy on their accessories site (good thing it's included with the car) - but I refused to take any crap from anyone about the price of a Tesla UMC which is vastly superior to Chevy's offering and cheaper....

man oh man - $549 for a crap L1 charger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info! Would you by chance have the exact length? I'm trying to figure out the geometry/car placement w/ my existing garage outlets? Thanks! Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Thanks for the info! Would you by chance have the exact length? I'm trying to figure out the geometry/car placement w/ my existing garage outlets? Thanks! Dan
.

I did measure it because I wanted to know myself. The total length is close to 25'. The 110 plug and the AC/DC converter are about 2 ft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks so much for measuring this cable, gbarbst! 25ft will work great in our garage! A stop gap measure until my Level 2 charger is installed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
:)Twenty five feet is the best length unless you have a small garage or a set parking spot. Normally, any EVSE with a shorter cord is about 18'.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,135 Posts
I also just noticed that Chevy charges $549 for this bad boy on their accessories site (good thing it's included with the car) - but I refused to take any crap from anyone about the price of a Tesla UMC which is vastly superior to Chevy's offering and cheaper....

man oh man - $549 for a crap L1 charger.
yeah, I ordered my Bolt before I knew anything about charging one. So I thought an extra charger was a good thing. Then when I thought I might actually get close to getting my Bolt, I started looking into charging options. My first google search was like "what does level 1 mean for charging an EV?" Then I felt sick to my stomach that I had put the spare Level 1 charger on my order. Feel like a sucker now. Thanks GM. I'll probably convert it to 240V and not care if I ruin it. Right now, it just stays with the car. But at least I can just leave the other one in the garage. But unless I stay a weekend somewhere, I can't imagine ever ever using the one in the car for anything. I take that back. It is useful when someone asks about how one charges the car. I can show them the one in the car. Makes great show'n tell. But that's about all it's good for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
.

I did measure it because I wanted to know myself. The total length is close to 25'. The 110 plug and the AC/DC converter are about 2 ft.
I think if you are short, you can use a robust 110V extension cord or power strip and still be ok viz a viz safety standards for 8 or 12 Amp recharging. I keep the 120V OEM charger in my car along with a 25 foot overkill cord.

FWIW there are 240V extension cords in the market so if you are traveling and using a friend's 240V outlet in their basement, it can be snaked out a window to your car. Keeps the relatives or friends amused and they can then tell stories at your cost, which will make them happy. Plus you will have a recharged car too. Important to keep them all amused.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,382 Posts
Then I felt sick to my stomach that I had put the spare Level 1 charger on my order. Feel like a sucker now. Thanks GM. I'll probably convert it to 240V and not care if I ruin it.
Just so you know, there's no need to "convert" the standard EVSE. It can handle 240V fine just as it is. The only thing you need to do is to figure out a way to get 240V into it despite the fact that the standard wall sockets that it fits into only have 120V.

I've wired up a standard 120V "NEMA5-15" socket to 240V from my breaker panel so I can plug the EVSE that came with my Bolt into it. It's a temporary arrangement until I can get a proper 240V wall-mounted EVSE that can charge at higher currents, but it works just fine - no problems at all.

You can also make a short "extension cord" with a standard 240V plug on one end and a 120V socket on the other so you can plug it into a proper 240V wall socket and then plug the EVSE into that. That might be useful as something you can throw into the trunk with the EVSE so that you can charge from 120V or 240V in a pinch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
[/QUOTE]I've wired up a standard 120V "NEMA5-15" socket to 240V from my breaker panel so I can plug the EVSE that came with my Bolt into it. It's a temporary arrangement until I can get a proper 240V wall-mounted EVSE that can charge at higher currents, but it works just fine - no problems at all. [/B][/I] 240V in a pinch.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, this is good to know! I'm thinking the 240 volts would be 24 amps?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Thanks, this is good to know! I'm thinking the 240 volts would be 24 amps?
If you mean the EVSE supplied with the car connected to 240volt circuit, it doesn't double the amperage. The electronics in the EVSE maxes out at 12 amps, whether you supply it with 120 or 240 volts. You get a faster charge because you've doubled the watts put out by the EVSE (Volts * Amps).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,641 Posts
.

I did measure it because I wanted to know myself. The total length is close to 25'. The 110 plug and the AC/DC converter are about 2 ft.
What you are calling an AC/DC converter is no such thing. It is an EVSE, a device to help keep you and your electric car safe while charging.

"Using two-way communication between the charger and car, the correct charging current is set based on the maximum current the charger can provide as well as the maximum current the car can receive.

As part of the protocol, a safety lock-out exists, preventing current from flowing when the charger is not connected to the car. It ensures that if a cable is not correctly inserted, power will not flow through it.

EVSE can also detect hardware faults, disconnecting the power and preventing battery damage, electrical shorts or worse still, fire."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,382 Posts
I've wired up a standard 120V "NEMA5-15" socket to 240V from my breaker panel so I can plug the EVSE that came with my Bolt into it. It's a temporary arrangement until I can get a proper 240V wall-mounted EVSE that can charge at higher currents, but it works just fine - no problems at all.
Thanks, this is good to know! I'm thinking the 240 volts would be 24 amps?
No, it's 12 amps at either voltage. Power (in watts) is Volts times Amps, so the EVSE that comes with the Bolt gives you:

at 120V - 120V x 12A = 1440 watts (1.44 kW)
at 240V - 240V x 12A = 2880 watts (2.88 kW)

At 120V, the car may use only 8 amps depending on the charging settings. At 240V the car will use whatever the EVSE tells it to, and the one that comes with the Bolt tells it to use 12A. That means that whichever way you choose to get 240V into the EVSE, you need to make sure that it's safely capable of a sustained 12A draw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
if you want to go greater than 12 amp/240 volts - you need to buy a different EVSE from a multitude of choices.

at 32 amps you can do 7.6 kW - which is almost 3 times faster than the cord/EVSE that comes with the car at 240 volts, and 4 times faster than 120 volts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,135 Posts
Just so you know, there's no need to "convert" the standard EVSE. It can handle 240V fine just as it is. The only thing you need to do is to figure out a way to get 240V into it despite the fact that the standard wall sockets that it fits into only have 120V.
I hadn't looked at the EVSE closely. I just assumed I could install a proper pigtail like I've done for dryers, welders, and my lift. They may have sealed or installed proper stress relief to make that difficult.

Thanks @Sean Nelson for the info. Others have talked about sending off for the mod or it running too hot. I'm too stubborn to pay someone to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,135 Posts
I hadn't looked at the EVSE closely.
Well, I did more than look at it closely this time. Took it apart. Not fun as screws were special torx screws that had a little nub in the center. Half came out with a no. 9 Torx, but the other half I either broke off the center nub with a pocket knife or drilled it out with a 5/64" bit. Then they came out easily. To my disappointment, the cable is soldered in. No wonder they charge $100 bucks to make the mod:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
The OEM EVSE that comes with the Bolt is the same as the Gen 2 Volt: Part #24280118 . I could've sworn the J1772 end was 15' long. A 25' cable doesn't feel right but I'm too cold to go outside and measure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,382 Posts
I hadn't looked at the EVSE closely. I just assumed I could install a proper pigtail like I've done for dryers, welders, and my lift.
There's a good reason not to do that - the plug that comes with the EVSE has a thermal sensor that detects a bad wall connection and will shut off the power if it gets too warm. Replacing the pigtail would eliminate that safety measure.
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top