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Anyone have a recommendation as to which level 2 charge to purchase for home use and what functions do you like or wish you had purchased.

Which method is preferrable when hooking the level to the electric panel box?
 

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I went with the JuiceBox Pro40, it's an excellent EVSE and my power company was offering a $500 rebate on the $550 unit!

There is a link on their product page to see if your utility is offering any incentives on EVSE's, $500 back on a $550 product is pretty decent.
 

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Depends on budget.. theres tons of posts on this subject already. If I was spending a decent amount of cash, I would get a Tesla evse and the $200 adapter. Looks like $750ish these days for both. Which isn't bad.

Or you can do the inexpensive 240v adapter thing with your Chevy evse if you can deal with "only" half a tank over night. From $20 diy or up to $60 made. Personally I wouldn't buy anything more until I get to the $750 option. Might seem strange but nothing in between these two options really does anything for me. I know plenty do disagree, but a $300 evse is just $300 I could put towards the Tesla option, and it doesn't add much value over the Chevy setup for what I need.
 

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I went with the JuiceBox Pro40, it's an excellent EVSE and my power company was offering a $500 rebate on the $550 unit!

There is a link on their product page to see if your utility is offering any incentives on EVSE's, $500 back on a $550 product is pretty decent.
I just checked my zip. It's very confusing. It says "FREE for qualifying residents in utility service territories with rebates.". I checked my zip code, and it says "Congrats! You qualify for the smart charger rebate" but in the cart it shows normally $619, on sale for $579, and says nothing about the rebates. How do the rebates work? How can I verify this is true? If I even got $500 off, I would buy one today!
 

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My guess is you get the rebate from the utility company, not the EVSE manufacturer. I'd check with my utility company to be sure.
That's why I asked NY Rob about it. I checked my utility's website, and saw nothing about it. I"m coming up black except for enel x claiming that I qualify, which is a little sketchy to me.
 

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The Juice is what I have. I would recommend that you buy one that supports load sharing management. The Juice does, but not all of the others offer it. It could potentially be handy if you ever have 'two' of them in your garage.
 

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A good way to determine the best EVSE Level 2 charger is to go to Amazon and peruse the offerings. Check the number of buyers and their ratings as well a comments. The Siemens brand is highly rated...
 

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Hardwired is in principle the safest way, but almost nobody seems to do that, including me. It is generally easy to move from one to another and between socket types if necessary. What is hard to change is the wiring, so don't cheap out there. 40A is current standard, which per code can run a 32A EVSE which is the most a Bolt will charge at. But, a Tesla S has a 72A charger, necessitating a 100A circuit to get full use. (However, if the electrician can do something like convert an existing 20A socket to 240V from 120V without running any wires, this can be very attractive as you can still get like 12mph charging from that which is more than good enough for most people.)

The Siemens Versicharge does not work well the Bolt! Delayed charging will generate faults with the EVSE. Very annoying.

I replaced my Versicharge with a JuiceBox 32A. Lots of features including load management, as previously mentioned.

ClipperCreek makes a good full line. They sell a 240V 16A version of the stock GM charger with a 14-30 plug under "AmazingE" sister brand. These are dumb but rugged. I generally feel the car is smart enough, though.
 

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For most people, a single 32A overnight should get you 50-60KWh. At 4 mi/KWh, that's 200-240 miles - a 100% recharge of the Bolt and the base Model 3! If you need more range than that during the day, you probably should stop by a DCFC/Super Charger.

I am going with a NEMA 14-50 so I guess I can charge at up to 40A, which for overnight would get me 75-100KWh. At 4 mi/KWh, that's 300-400 miles a day. That's 100% charge on the higher end Tesla.
 

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Hardwired is in principle the safest way, but almost nobody seems to do that, including me. It is generally easy to move from one to another and between socket types if necessary. What is hard to change is the wiring, so don't cheap out there. 40A is current standard, which per code can run a 32A EVSE which is the most a Bolt will charge at. But, a Tesla S has a 72A charger, necessitating a 100A circuit to get full use. (However, if the electrician can do something like convert an existing 20A socket to 240V from 120V without running any wires, this can be very attractive as you can still get like 12mph charging from that which is more than good enough for most people.)

The Siemens Versicharge does not work well the Bolt! Delayed charging will generate faults with the EVSE. Very annoying.

I replaced my Versicharge with a JuiceBox 32A. Lots of features including load management, as previously mentioned.

ClipperCreek makes a good full line. They sell a 240V 16A version of the stock GM charger with a 14-30 plug under "AmazingE" sister brand. These are dumb but rugged. I generally feel the car is smart enough, though.
I hardwired my JuiceBox. I used some left over conduit, pieces and other assorted odds and ends from my previous whole house generator project. It's a frankenstein and I'll probably clean it up a bit eventually. When I add the second EVSE for sure it'll get a makeover. I added the sub panel for the Tesla I didn't buy, setting the garage up for 125A.
GarageEV.jpg
 

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I hardwired my JuiceBox. I used some left over conduit, pieces and other assorted odds and ends from my previous whole house generator project. It's a frankenstein and I'll probably clean it up a bit eventually. When I add the second EVSE for sure it'll get a makeover. I added the sub panel for the Tesla I didn't buy, setting the garage up for 125A.
Yikes! Looks like the Borg has taken over your garage!
 

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Yikes! Looks like the Borg has taken over your garage!
I know, I was in a hurry because I had the car before I had the EVSE. I just slapped it all together without planning. I was just going to run a single cable, granted this was originally going to be a Tesla, but the cost of the cable to run the high amps/dual charger was cost prohibitive and I needed a disconnect after the new NFPA code got adopted by my state;
625.42 Disconnecting Means. For electric vehicle supply
equipment rated more than 60 amperes or more than 150 volts
to ground, the disconnecting means shall be provided and in-
stalled in a readily accessible location. The disconnecting
means shall be lockable open in accordance with 110.25.

If you install an EVSE greater than 60 amps ..... you have to have a disconnect. So, I decided to bump up to 125 amps, ran slightly larger conduit, put in the load center which acts as the disconnect. Again, remember, this was going to be for a Tesla and .... wait for it ..... I pulled a permit. You don't hear that often anymore. lol. As fate would have it, I got the Bolt. I ran wire for 125 Amps, but put a 100 amp breaker in for now because that's what I could get fast, never thought about checking Amazon which sells 125 Amp breakers via Prime. lol. I have more open slots in that sub panel for a second EVSE and could use the NEMA 50 that is there in the upper right hand corner. The NEMA 30 is there for the RV, I put in a 20 amp as well and ran a switch for a camera and WiFi access point. Always wanted more WiFi visibility in that area anyway. That switch is powered by PoE and it passes PoE on to the camera and the WiFi access point so no power cords for any of that. Another Frankenstein / Borg setup is my Gas project. At the same time as this, I was converting my Patio to Natural Gas. There's nothing easier than 1/2" black pipe in my opinion, so I ran that to my patio. But in order to get the pressure and volume, I ran commercial pressure. So, 80 feet of black pipe and 7 regulators to drop to residential pressure. Camera's, and electric valves controlled via Insteon home automation. I have 2 Blackstone Griddles, 3 torches, 1 grill, 2 heaters, one large fire pit/table and a fire bowl for making s'mores.
61055512_10156241188943144_5154266475267096576_o.jpg 56610491_10156120215713144_7166587137389756416_n.jpg 60068405_10156204876648144_4339541454440366080_n.jpg 60350422_10156221549103144_1869897394808684544_n.jpg 60862930_10156234938548144_4012489903987228672_n.jpg 60963859_10156232611698144_1473309713947951104_n.jpg 61031970_10156241187633144_8039950414700871680_n.jpg 61121549_10156239097128144_1752463604432502784_o.jpg 69984476_10156492326503144_2695358979176923136_n.jpg
 

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I hardwired my JuiceBox. I used some left over conduit, pieces and other assorted odds and ends from my previous whole house generator project. It's a frankenstein and I'll probably clean it up a bit eventually. When I add the second EVSE for sure it'll get a makeover. I added the sub panel for the Tesla I didn't buy, setting the garage up for 125A.
View attachment 27393
What is the box between the sub-panel and the EVSE?

Edit: I see, it is an emergency disconnect.
 

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What is the box between the sub-panel and the EVSE?

Edit: I see, it is an emergency disconnect.
It's a Generac Smart Management Module (SMM) which unfortunately did not live up to it's expectations. It really doesn't do what it was designed to do, as a tech bulletin from Generac that I received after installing it pointed out. I have a 22kW whole house generator, and my intention was to not have the EVSE energized when on gen power. The SMM was supposed to have two features:
1) It's primary purpose is it will shed high value loads if the generator becomes bogged down. Thus, if the EVSE bogs the gen down it will shed or if something elsebogs the gen down it will shed the EVSE in hopes to help alleviate the strain. (NOTE: I didn't want it for this purpose, see #2 below).
2) It has a feature, a physical switch, that enables you to lockout any connected load, the EVSE, permanently. THIS, is what I wanted. I wanted to select this lockout switch, so that I could isolate the EVSE, yet if I changed my mind, literally slide the switch over and let the EVSE take gen power. This is what I bought it for.

Unfortunately, my model of generator provided power that is too clean for the SMM to detect that it is even on generator at all, so that lockout switch does nothing. So, all that the SMM will do is purpose #1 above. It can't detect that I'm on gen power, but it will detect if the generator is struggling and in that case it will shed an lockout the EVSE.

Problem being, if I turn everything on in my house, the 5 ton A/C, the EVSE, the well pump, all the lights, sump pump, both electric double ovens, the dishwasher, the dryer, and the clothes washer ..... my generator doesn't overload. So, you see, that box, does nothing. I could replace it with a dumb one, one that just sheds when it receives a signal via hard wiring from the gen, but I thought the 'smart' one was the better one.
 
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