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I'm aware this has been discussed a good bit on this forum with a number of you DIY'ing this project.However no one posted step by step instructions or youtube videos ( I might have to do that) I have purchased the following items but unsure where to begin the project....thinking I may be missing some key items?

GoWISE Power PS1004 3000W Continuous 6000W Surge Peak Power Pure Sine Wave Inverter with Starter Cables and 4 Output Sockets
EWCS 6 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt - Combo Pack - 10 Feet Each Black+Red - Made in the USA
HYCLAT Red 50A 6-10 Gauge Battery Cable Quick Connect Disconnect Plug Wire Harness Plug Connector Recovery Winch Trailer (4 Pack)

Thinking I still need a 50amp fuse, anything else? Also unsure if maybe 3000W might be overkill and should I go with 1k or 2k watt inverter? Does anyone have photos of how they set this up on their Bolt?
 

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I've read something about that. I thought it was in the owners' manual but I can't find it now. Anyway, what I remember is that you connect to the 12v battery, which would make sense if the inverter is designed for 12v input. But it means that you're limited to the capacity of the transformer powering the 12v system, which if I remember correctly is 1600 watts though to me that seems like a lot of current at 12v but there is a boat load of 12v equipment on-board the car. It would be a good idea to have a current limiter of some sort before you get to the car but if you're limited to 1600 watts, then you would need a 12 amp fuse or breaker on the 120v line. If you put a 50 amp fuse on the 12v line, you'll be limited to less than 600 watts. You need to verify the maximum available current and thus the fuses or breakers needed.
 

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A big downside to the bolt is that they don't have that as a factory option. I would think adding a function like that would cost gm under $500 even with true sine wave.
 

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Like roseberry said, the supply to the 12V battery is only 1600 watts, so using an inverted more than that would be a waste of money, and if you actually loaded it to more than 1600 watts it would over load the system when the 12V battery goes dead.

Keith
 

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I wanted to install the inverter in a semi-permanent manner so there would be ready access to 120-volts just by plugging in. I also wanted to avoid long wire runs involved in putting the inverter in the passenger compartments. As a result, it was necessary to keep the inverter dry or find a waterproof model. Ended up using a covered baking pan from Walmart as a way to keep water off the inverter. Steps were as follows:
Cut a hole in the rear of the baking pan for the 12-volt wires to the battery and ground connection
Used GOOP to glue the baking pan to the top of the Bolt EV "motor"
Used GOOP to glue the inverter to the bottom of the baking pan
Purchased a power strip with a short cord and a 90-degree angle plug to fit in the baking pan
Connected the inverter to the positive battery terminal using a waterproof 12 volt circuit breaker and a power meter (still need to find a good place to mount the power meter)
Hope this helps and that the pictures in my prior post. I should probably add a grounding wire from the ground connector on the inverter connected to a metal tent stake to properly ground this system.
 

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If I'm interpreting the pictures right, you have a 120 amp 12v breaker right at the battery. That'll give you 1440 watts continuous and allow for momentary high loads. In regard to Fivedoor's comment, some extra capacity with the inverter would not be a waste of money as equipment running at rated maximum runs hot and has a shorter life.
 

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I'm aware this has been discussed a good bit on this forum with a number of you DIY'ing this project.However no one posted step by step instructions or youtube videos ( I might have to do that) I have purchased the following items but unsure where to begin the project....thinking I may be missing some key items?

GoWISE Power PS1004 3000W Continuous 6000W Surge Peak Power Pure Sine Wave Inverter with Starter Cables and 4 Output Sockets
EWCS 6 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt - Combo Pack - 10 Feet Each Black+Red - Made in the USA
HYCLAT Red 50A 6-10 Gauge Battery Cable Quick Connect Disconnect Plug Wire Harness Plug Connector Recovery Winch Trailer (4 Pack)

Thinking I still need a 50amp fuse, anything else? Also unsure if maybe 3000W might be overkill and should I go with 1k or 2k watt inverter? Does anyone have photos of how they set this up on their Bolt?
See page 3 of the linked thread. It includes a verbal description and photos of my solution. It requires you to plug in the cable that goes to the inverter when you use it. IMO, #6AWG isn't nearly large enough. I used #2.

 

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Yes, #2 copper is in the range of 133 amp ampacity for the 12v lines that you need if you're actually going to draw 1600 watts over much time. Wire insulation that'll withstand high temps or a use that never draws maximum watts for very long would make smaller wires possible, but that should be carefully analyzed to avoid melting or burning the wire insulation. Welding cable suppliers are a good place to look for large, flexible copper wires and connectors since they deal with a high amp, low voltage use.
 

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Check out this post - 120 Volt Power Tap
The inverter is under a plastic tub. Don't know the details of your inverter, but most high power models have fans for thermal management. I'm afraid the plastic enclosure may impede that. It may be a problem when the unit needs to pull full load for extended period of time.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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You make a very good point. The plastic lid has to be removed during use in order to extract the power strip anyhow. I would not plan to use it with the lid in place. The only purpose to the lid is to keep the inverter dry when driving through heavy rain. Hope this helps.
 

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the problem with the Chevy Bolt is that it shuts off after 2 hours and that's if you leave the flop inside the car does anybody know how to keep the bolt running for more than 2 hours?
 

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I heard you can rubber band the shifter to N and get out of the car through the passenger door.

I have a 3kw inverter. Since I only need it very occasionally, I just use jumper cable for connection.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wanted to install the inverter in a semi-permanent manner so there would be ready access to 120-volts just by plugging in. I also wanted to avoid long wire runs involved in putting the inverter in the passenger compartments. As a result, it was necessary to keep the inverter dry or find a waterproof model. Ended up using a covered baking pan from Walmart as a way to keep water off the inverter. Steps were as follows:
Cut a hole in the rear of the baking pan for the 12-volt wires to the battery and ground connection
Used GOOP to glue the baking pan to the top of the Bolt EV "motor"
Used GOOP to glue the inverter to the bottom of the baking pan
Purchased a power strip with a short cord and a 90-degree angle plug to fit in the baking pan
Connected the inverter to the positive battery terminal using a waterproof 12 volt circuit breaker and a power meter (still need to find a good place to mount the power meter)
Hope this helps and that the pictures in my prior post. I should probably add a grounding wire from the ground connector on the inverter connected to a metal tent stake to properly ground this system.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you Phuber! This is exactly what I was looking for, you have renewed my confidence that I can DIY it. How long have you tested your setup, and is this a permanent install?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You make a very good point. The plastic lid has to be removed during use in order to extract the power strip anyhow. I would not plan to use it with the lid in place. The only purpose to the lid is to keep the inverter dry when driving through heavy rain. Hope this helps.
sylvang
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Discussion Starter • #16 a moment ago
Thank you Phuber! This is exactly what I was looking for, you have renewed my confidence that I can DIY it. How long have you tested your setup, and is this a permanent install?
 

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Thank you Phuber! This is exactly what I was looking for, you have renewed my confidence that I can DIY it. How long have you tested your setup, and is this a permanent install?
I did a brief test to confirm that the inverter was producing 120 volts but have not had opportunity to do a long term test.
 

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The baking pan is glued to the top of the HV junction box. The glue's shear strength needs to withstand the force generated by the mass of the inverter times the deceleration of the car. During hard braking the assembly may be ripped off its glue base and becomes a projectile inside the engine compartment. A more secured fastening method may be advisable.

The inverter is sitting inside the container. Is it free to move inside? It may shift and make noise as you speed up / slow down / turn. Cushioning material inside the container may be needed.

It is still a pretty neat setup. Hope it works out for you.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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You bring up a good point. Both the pan and the inverter are fastened with a healthy amount of GOOP which holds shear loads fairly well. So far, there has not been any movement of either in spite of some spirited driving. GOOP seems to get stronger with age but I plan to keep an eye on it. Anyone trying this should be sure to use plenty of glue.
 
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