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Ah, snap … I remember in the 1990's some dude in Europe drove a Suzuki Swift for about 1,000 miles on one tank of gas. I do not recall being impressed by anything other than the dude's determination, because it took him like two days :)
 

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Another stunt, done under ridiculous conditions and speed, that ended up bad PR.

Not taking a charge, and being hauled away is very negative...to me.
 

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Not taking a charge, and being hauled away is very negative...to me.
In my view, the software should not have allowed the battery to discharge to a level that would destroy the battery or leave the vehicle unable to charge.

Either there is something that needs to be reset to allow the car to charge normally, or they discovered a defective battery by discharging it to the lowest the BMS would allow.
 

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In my view, the software should not have allowed the battery to discharge to a level that would destroy the battery or leave the vehicle unable to charge.

Either there is something that needs to be reset to allow the car to charge normally, or they discovered a defective battery by discharging it to the lowest the BMS would allow.
Tesla likely never tested this scenario. Same way they never thoroughly tested the Model 3's braking systems. Good thing the guinea pig early adopters and orgs like Consumer Reports do the final beta testing for them. ;)
 

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In my view, the software should not have allowed the battery to discharge to a level that would destroy the battery or leave the vehicle unable to charge.

Either there is something that needs to be reset to allow the car to charge normally, or they discovered a defective battery by discharging it to the lowest the BMS would allow.
Agreed, the car should have an absolute bare minimum SoC where it will still run the electronics but won't send any power to the traction motor or non-essential accessories (for example A/C). And another lower bare minimum SoC where the electronics won't power on (basically open a relay to disconnect the batter) but will you can get them to start by plugging in the EVSE (the EVSE should provide enough power to "start" the car and begin charging even if the battery is completely failed or isn't even present.
 

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UPDATE:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=289&v=OLWK8heO2R8
The capacity of the battery is probably a non-issue. A constant drain on auxiliary functions for 32 hours has a price.
Spoiler alert, it was the 12v battery that was also drained so it lost communication with the charger. Still shouldn't have happened though.
 

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If the 12V battery goes, wouldn't the traction battery be useless without the 12V systems running? Wouldn't it be important to have the BMS or whatever prioritize keeping the 12V topped off at the expense of the traction battery? I mean, if it was the dead 12V battery that prevented the traction battery from getting charged, all the more to prioritize keeping the 12V battery full and let the traction battery empty to the minimum SOC where it can be charged again?
 

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I assume the 12v may have been weak to begin with, as dealerships never maintain them properly, and then something drained it on the tow home, like a dome light left on or something.

The 12v battery is maintained any time the car is "Ready", or any time it is charged.

My wife killed the Prius battery by leaving the door open over the weekend.
 

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If the 12V battery goes, wouldn't the traction battery be useless without the 12V systems running? Wouldn't it be important to have the BMS or whatever prioritize keeping the 12V topped off at the expense of the traction battery? I mean, if it was the dead 12V battery that prevented the traction battery from getting charged, all the more to prioritize keeping the 12V battery full and let the traction battery empty to the minimum SOC where it can be charged again?
The 12v get's it's charge from the traction battery so if it has nothing left to give, it too will die. There's a "jumper" pin under a small round cover on the front bumper for this purpose but my guess it was expected to be needed when the 12v was actually either defective or useful lifespan was over. It's also intended for emergency services to "open" the frunk/doors I think. It should have shut down the traction battery before the 12v also died though. There have been reports though of faulty 12v batteries on new model 3's though so maybe the BMS isn't to fault.
 

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I assume the 12v may have been weak to begin with, as dealerships never maintain them properly, and then something drained it on the tow home, like a dome light left on or something.

The 12v battery is maintained any time the car is "Ready", or any time it is charged.

My wife killed the Prius battery by leaving the door open over the weekend.

Good reason to replace all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs.:nerd:
 

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Good reason to replace all of the interior light bulbs with LEDs.:nerd:
Good advice; it's one of the first things I do whenever I get a new vehicle.

The Prius has an electric brake booster that runs whenever the driver's door is open. The pressure slowly bleeds out and another boost is required again as long as the door is ajar. This was enough to kill that battery in the 4 days it sat that way until I got home.

BTW, I'm running a LiFePO4 now since it lives inside the cabin where it almost never drops below freezing (not good to charge LiFePO4 when below freezing). It's a more efficient battery chemistry, and happened to be cheaper than an OEM battery.

Here's an LED project from back in 2004, before consumer bulbs existed. The brake light for the motorcycle has over 150 solder joints. I used to break the glass from a bulb and retrofit LEDs into it. Made an LED headlamp that way back in 1999.





 

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Good advice; it's one of the first things I do whenever I get a new vehicle.

The Prius has an electric brake booster that runs whenever the driver's door is open. The pressure slowly bleeds out and another boost is required again as long as the door is ajar. This was enough to kill that battery in the 4 days it sat that way until I got home.

BTW, I'm running a LiFePO4 now since it lives inside the cabin where it almost never drops below freezing (not good to charge LiFePO4 when below freezing). It's a more efficient battery chemistry, and happened to be cheaper than an OEM battery.

Here's an LED project from back in 2004, before consumer bulbs existed. The brake light for the motorcycle has over 150 solder joints. I used to break the glass from a bulb and retrofit LEDs into it. Made an LED headlamp that way back in 1999.





Nice!


Reminds me of the first computer I built. From scratch. Bare PCB, dip sockets and discrete components. Scrounged the parts for it from parts distributors that I had good relationships with from work.

An Apple ][+ clone. Used it for years, and wrote a couple of post-grad papers on it using ElectricPencil and a dot-matrix printer. Ahhhh...those were the days.
 

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There's a "jumper" pin under a small round cover on the front bumper for this purpose but my guess it was expected to be needed when the 12v was actually either defective or useful lifespan was over.
Can you elaborate on this? I know about the tow hook cover, but this is the first I've heard about a 12V port in the front bumper...
 

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Can you elaborate on this? I know about the tow hook cover, but this is the first I've heard about a 12V port in the front bumper...
There are two jumper cables inside the tow hook hole on the Model 3. They made the frunk easier to remove than on the S, and X. But it is still a pain to pull the whole frunk out to get to the 12 volt battery, so they run jumpers down to the tow hole.

I tried showing the image, but it says it is copyrighted. Going to the Tesla site shows it loading, and loading, and.... It does have a place to sign in. :-(
 

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So when it quit at 606.2,did they just happen to be next to a supercharger or did they push it there? No matter the manufacturer,that 12v is VERY important.
 
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