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Except that in a power emergency (grid down), you're not going to continue profligate use of energy. I don't understand why people continue to consider average power usage figures for what's not an "average" event. In an emergency, you're going to unplug and shut down all non-critical loads to extend your ability to provide power to those loads that are critical. It's only prudent to do so.

A typical fridge uses 2-3kWh per day. That, and a couple of LED lights, intermittent use of a microwave oven and a cell-phone charger should see you through at least a week, maybe two.
 

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Except that in a power emergency (grid down), you're not going to continue profligate use of energy. I don't understand why people continue to consider average power usage figures for what's not an "average" event. In an emergency, you're going to unplug and shut down all non-critical loads to extend your ability to provide power to those loads that are critical. It's only prudent to do so.

A typical fridge uses 2-3kWh per day. That, and a couple of LED lights, intermittent use of a microwave oven and a cell-phone charger should see you through at least a week, maybe two.
Linked your two build descriptions on that thread. Unfortunately, the website shows the basic thread info and not your posts.
 

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I am not sure what adapter you are seeing for $65. Or are saying that is the most you would pay for one?
Zoom zoom posted a link to some seller called classichop.com - never heard of them before this post which is why I asked if anyone has experience buying through their site. Want to make sure it's Legit.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Awesome thread.

To add the USB splitter, which wires did you tap into? How did you get the sensor cover open? Looking to do the same thing for a dashcam.
I ran wires across the headliner, down the A-pillar and into the fuse box and into the fuse tap I linked to and plugged into the fuse port meant for the stock USB ports.

The rearview console cover mainly just pops off. Start at the top. There's also lots of other threads on the process which go into detail.
 

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Zoom zoom posted a link to some seller called classichop.com - never heard of them before this post which is why I asked if anyone has experience buying through their site. Want to make sure it's Legit.
I would be very careful buying it from that site. The adapter pictured there is a TeslaTap.


That brand of J1772 plug, for 32 amps, alone is selling for minimum $70. The 16 amp version sells for $65 some places. You are not going to get the entire adapter for less than the price of the J1772 plug.
 

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I ran wires across the headliner, down the A-pillar and into the fuse box and into the fuse tap I linked to and plugged into the fuse port meant for the stock USB ports.

The rearview console cover mainly just pops off. Start at the top. There's also lots of other threads on the process which go into detail.
Thanks, gonna need to take some time to look into this.
 

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Linked your two build descriptions on that thread. Unfortunately, the website shows the basic thread info and not your posts.
Curious. I didn't have any trouble finding or linking to it.


My contributions start on page 3, with photos and a parts list.
 

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Tesla makes/made EVSEs ranging from 80 amps to 32 amps. The 32 amp came with the Model 3 introduction, since the Model 3 has a 32 amp onboard charger, like the Bolt. All the hardwired ones are at least 40 amps.

I am not sure what adapter you are seeing for $65. Or are saying that is the most you would pay for one?
I posted a link for this one above, but here it is again;

Cheap Knock off - SFW
 

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Discussion Starter #38
lol, I just noticed this now. I have no idea. Must have been some silly autocorrect that is obviously not.
 
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