[JaxEVLyftUber]

Not long after the expiration of the 36k bumper-to-bumper warranty, my 17 Bolt developed a creaking sound. Over the next 20k or so miles it became quite pronounced when accelerating 0-5 mph as well as decelerating, typically in "L mode" from 5 - 0 MPH.


At 67k, a couple weeks ago, it finally wore me out, so I left the Bolt at the dealer for a week while out of town.


They retorqued the front axle nuts and charged me only their standard diag fee of $100


So far, so good - blessed silence has returned.


Just FYI - relating my experience.

 

[quirkySquirt]

Doesn't sound too bad for a diag fee. Wonder if it's an easy enough fix to do yourself. I'd still probably ask the dealer to do it, though.

 

[MikeyBolt]

Doesn't sound too bad for a diag fee. Wonder if it's an easy enough fix to do yourself. I'd still probably ask the dealer to do it, though.

That's what I was wondering. Anyone know how easy those bolts are to get to; can you get to them from underneath with, for example, ramps? If so, I could easily check torque if I end up with this problem and torque to spec.

Mike

 

[wrillo]

Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.

 

[davioh2001]

Anyone notice rattling or creaking elsewhere ? I do notice a center of console creaking but on if I rest my arm on it firmly.

 

[MikeyBolt]

Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.

That helps, thanks. I guess that would require removal of the wheel, brake caliper, and rotor?

Mike

 

[wrillo]

Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.

That helps, thanks. I guess that would require removal of the wheel, brake caliper, and rotor?

Mike

You can get to it through the rotor. Just the wheel. You have to figure out how to keep it still while you torque it though. I think there is a special tool to do it, but you should be able to just keep the other front tire on the ground and torque against the transmission.

 

[NY-Rob]

Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.

Had that same exact problem with my 2014 Volt just before I traded it in for the Bolt in 2017.
Same fix as well, re-torque the front axle nut (on both sides)... instant fix, and I was able to do it without removing the wheel... just removed the hub cap and the large socket just did fit in there. Nice 2 min fix to an annoying problem!

 

[XJ12]

Had that same exact problem with my 2014 Volt just before I traded it in for the Bolt in 2017.
Same fix as well, re-torque the front axle nut (on both sides)... instant fix, and I was able to do it without removing the wheel... just removed the hub cap and the large socket just did fit in there. Nice 2 min fix to an annoying problem!

they don't put cotter pins on these anymore? seem to remember torqueing down to seat the bearing and backing off the nut and putting in a cotter pin. without a cotter pin, no wonder they get loose.

 

[MikeyBolt]

they don't put cotter pins on these anymore? seem to remember torqueing down to seat the bearing and backing off the nut and putting in a cotter pin. without a cotter pin, no wonder they get loose.

Yeah, I did that dozens of times on older rear wheel drive cars. I think the difference is: those aren't axle nuts but instead are just wheel hub nuts that only need to be tightened to the point that they held the wheel bearings in. Those weren't tightened/torqued but were rather just turned until they took up any slack on the wheel bearings, hence the need for the cotter pins.

Mike

 

[121 Kw]

My money is GM got a batch of crimp nuts on the loose side of the crimp tolerance. Very easy to tighten, the large axle socket can likely be borrowed from the local parts store. Just need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and jack (and prudently a jackstand).

 

[Sean Nelson]

You can get to it through the rotor. Just the wheel. You have to figure out how to keep it still while you torque it though.

Wouldn't the parking pawl be enough to do this?

 

[MikeyBolt]

Wouldn't the parking pawl be enough to do this?

I would think so. Although I'd probably just raise one side and let the opposite wheel hold it through the open diff. Not sure I'd want the transmission holding it even though I doubt it'd hurt it.

Next question, anyone know the nut size and torque spec? I'd probably just order the socket on Amazon if I had to do this. Already have a good torque wrench.

Mike

 

[Veloraid]

Not long after the expiration of the 36k bumper-to-bumper warranty, my 17 Bolt developed a creaking sound. Over the next 20k or so miles it became quite pronounced when accelerating 0-5 mph as well as decelerating, typically in "L mode" from 5 - 0 MPH.


At 67k, a couple weeks ago, it finally wore me out, so I left the Bolt at the dealer for a week while out of town.


They retorqued the front axle nuts and charged me only their standard diag fee of $100


So far, so good - blessed silence has returned.


Just FYI - relating my experience.

But where exactly was your sound coming from? Hubs or transaxle? I've got acceleration/deceleration clunks(more deceleration) but also on bumps now. Had it on the lift, sound definitely in the transaxle.

 

[oscar.carrillo]

I have this too. Have been wondering what it is.
Does it sound like this?

This isn't mine but mine sounds similar, particularly in 'L' mode and from rest when starting slowly and to rest if it's slow as well.

 

[Veloraid]

So I had a few different sounds including a clic when accelerating and a clunk when decelerating as well as clicks in the front end and I can only describe small metallic vibration in the steering wheel on deceleration over small bumps. As I posted in another thread the dealer after 3 tries finally found a cracked rear motor mount. Thought that would solve all the noises but no, the clicks continued. Just at the dealer again 2 days ago and they're ordering me an axle, not the drive shafts but the axle that goes right through the motor and transaxle. Hope to *#@ that does it because my 5 year powertrain warranty is up this month. Have your dealer check those 2 things.

 

[Pigwich]

Next question, anyone know the nut size and torque spec?

Amen, Brother. There's sense talking right there.
Who's got the spec?

 

[oscar.carrillo]

But where exactly was your sound coming from? Hubs or transaxle? I've got acceleration/deceleration clunks(more deceleration) but also on bumps now. Had it on the lift, sound definitely in the transaxle.

I would think so. Although I'd probably just raise one side and let the opposite wheel hold it through the open diff. Not sure I'd want the transmission holding it even though I doubt it'd hurt it.

Next question, anyone know the nut size and torque spec? I'd probably just order the socket on Amazon if I had to do this. Already have a good torque wrench.

Mike

Was there ever an answer to this?
Is it a 32mm socket?

 

[Duke Woolworth]

Wouldn't the parking pawl be enough to do this?

No pawl on a Bolt. Brakes do the job.

 

[Sean Nelson]

No pawl on a Bolt. Brakes do the job.

The Bolt does in fact have a parking pawl inside the motor / gear train housing that immobilizes the front wheels when the car in in "P". That's in addition to the parking brake, which acts on the rear wheels.