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Not long after the expiration of the 36k bumper-to-bumper warranty, my 17 Bolt developed a creaking sound. Over the next 20k or so miles it became quite pronounced when accelerating 0-5 mph as well as decelerating, typically in "L mode" from 5 - 0 MPH.


At 67k, a couple weeks ago, it finally wore me out, so I left the Bolt at the dealer for a week while out of town.


They retorqued the front axle nuts and charged me only their standard diag fee of $100


So far, so good - blessed silence has returned.


Just FYI - relating my experience.
 

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Doesn't sound too bad for a diag fee. Wonder if it's an easy enough fix to do yourself. I'd still probably ask the dealer to do it, though.
 

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Doesn't sound too bad for a diag fee. Wonder if it's an easy enough fix to do yourself. I'd still probably ask the dealer to do it, though.
That's what I was wondering. Anyone know how easy those bolts are to get to; can you get to them from underneath with, for example, ramps? If so, I could easily check torque if I end up with this problem and torque to spec.

Mike
 

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Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.
That helps, thanks. I guess that would require removal of the wheel, brake caliper, and rotor?

Mike
You can get to it through the rotor. Just the wheel. You have to figure out how to keep it still while you torque it though. I think there is a special tool to do it, but you should be able to just keep the other front tire on the ground and torque against the transmission.
 

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Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.



Had that same exact problem with my 2014 Volt just before I traded it in for the Bolt in 2017.
Same fix as well, re-torque the front axle nut (on both sides)... instant fix, and I was able to do it without removing the wheel... just removed the hub cap and the large socket just did fit in there. Nice 2 min fix to an annoying problem!
 

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Had that same exact problem with my 2014 Volt just before I traded it in for the Bolt in 2017.
Same fix as well, re-torque the front axle nut (on both sides)... instant fix, and I was able to do it without removing the wheel... just removed the hub cap and the large socket just did fit in there. Nice 2 min fix to an annoying problem!
they don't put cotter pins on these anymore? seem to remember torqueing down to seat the bearing and backing off the nut and putting in a cotter pin. without a cotter pin, no wonder they get loose.
 

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they don't put cotter pins on these anymore? seem to remember torqueing down to seat the bearing and backing off the nut and putting in a cotter pin. without a cotter pin, no wonder they get loose.
Yeah, I did that dozens of times on older rear wheel drive cars. I think the difference is: those aren't axle nuts but instead are just wheel hub nuts that only need to be tightened to the point that they held the wheel bearings in. Those weren't tightened/torqued but were rather just turned until they took up any slack on the wheel bearings, hence the need for the cotter pins.

Mike
 

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My money is GM got a batch of crimp nuts on the loose side of the crimp tolerance. Very easy to tighten, the large axle socket can likely be borrowed from the local parts store. Just need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and jack (and prudently a jackstand).
 

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Wouldn't the parking pawl be enough to do this?
I would think so. Although I'd probably just raise one side and let the opposite wheel hold it through the open diff. Not sure I'd want the transmission holding it even though I doubt it'd hurt it.

Next question, anyone know the nut size and torque spec? :) I'd probably just order the socket on Amazon if I had to do this. Already have a good torque wrench.

Mike
 
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