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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just came back from a test trip to our favorite Sierra lake to kayak on. Got some interesting numbers to share...

Our home elevation: 1200 ft.
Destination: 8000 ft.
Elevation gain/loss : 6800 ft.
Estimated median range per DIC ;)(I still can't see that and not smirk) :
248 miles after fresh charge.

Actual miles driven: 128 round trip
When we left the lake to come home, the DIC said we had 120 miles of range.
When we got home, the DIC said we had 161 miles of range left.

248 - 161 = 87

So, we drove 128 actual miles for 87 miles of range used! That is a gross over simplification I'm sure. Gravity has a lot to do with it.

E driving is interesting! :)
 

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Just came back from a test trip to our favorite Sierra lake to kayak on. Got some interesting numbers to share...

Our home elevation: 1200 ft.
Destination: 8000 ft.
Elevation gain/loss : 6800 ft.
Estimated median range per DIC ;)(I still can't see that and not smirk) :
248 miles after fresh charge.

Actual miles driven: 128 round trip
When we left the lake to come home, the DIC said we had 120 miles of range.
When we got home, the DIC said we had 161 miles of range left.

248 - 161 = 87

So, we drove 128 actual miles for 87 miles of range used! That is a gross over simplification I'm sure. Gravity has a lot to do with it.

E driving is interesting! :)
If the ride home was mostly downhill, the car is thinking “wow, I guess I'm getting great mileage lately, better show an optimistic range because I guess we're gonna keep driving like that”.

What you should be looking at (and telling us) is how many kWh you used total and how many miles you drove to work out miles/kWh.
 

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12/16 build, 2017, white LT
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What you should be looking at (and telling us) is how many kWh you used total and how many miles you drove to work out miles/kWh.
Yes. I hardly ever look at the GOM number. It reminds me of analysts talking about stock market movement. They can all tell you why it did what it did yesterday, but are useless for predicting tomorrow.
 

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Some here give very high range/kw figures, but down in the fine print, they're driving 45-55 MPH. Those of us in the real world, trying not to be a EV stone in the traffic river, will never see those results on our GOM. Suggest next time, provide the average speed. Without that, it's a bit difficult to compare your results to their's and our's.

jack vines
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah,good point guys. I was traveling real world speed, 65 - 70. Still getting used to all the information the car gives me. We'll be making this same trip again soon, this time with a tandem kayak on top. I'll post the numbers the car gives me after that trip.

Got the cross bars for the Bolt roof rack. Not a Chevy item! :confused: It's a THULE setup! (And cost $535!!) What the hey, Chevy? You've never seen a Subaru before?? Sleek and stylish. Part of the car. This LOOKS like an add on. :| On the plus side, I can just plonk the kayak on top of the rack, don't have to use my saddles. :)
 

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Yeah,good point guys. I was traveling real world speed, 65 - 70.
You need to zero out the average speed, and the trip odo before each drive to see what you are really doing. Driving 65-70 mph will give you a moving average of about 50 mph. You learn this stuff if you ride a bicycle. Bicycle speedos show moving average. You can bust a gut riding 20+ mph, but your average turns out to be 15 mph. The time you spend slowing, and speeding up eats that average hugely.

Once you have average speed for your drive, and the miles/kWh converted to kWh/mile, total distance, and percent usage for drive, climate, and battery conditioning from the energy screen, you can determine exactly your average power consumption for each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
....
Once you have average speed for your drive, and the miles/kWh converted to kWh/mile, total distance, and percent usage for drive, climate, and battery conditioning from the energy screen, you can determine exactly your average power consumption for each.
Phweew! :eek:
:)
 
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