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As for the connector pins, I've been doing some research. I found the OEM part number of the connecter. Its 1743062-2. The pin part number seems to be 964265-2 and the weather seal is 964971-1.

Connector:

Pin:

Seal:
 

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So the light is always on, meaning you get an eerie glow leaking out from the sides of the charge port cover?
 

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2020 Chevy Bolt Premier
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Nope the light shuts off when you close the door and after charge is complete not sure how long it says on after charging is complete just know it's not on when I unplug it in the morning. Lights up when I push the button to remove the charger.
 

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2019 Chevy Bolt LT, Cajun Red
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Watching the videos, I think even I could perform this mod. Thank you @Photo guy for the detailed instructions. I am looking forward to future mods and have subscribed to your channel (y)

for now, I'm sticking with my $10 solution as it works for me, but I will most likely upgrade to yours at some point.:geek:

1.jpg nite howl.jpg
 

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Watching the videos, I think even I could perform this mod. Thank you @Photo guy for the detailed instructions. I am looking forward to future mods and have subscribed to your channel (y)

for now, I'm sticking with my $10 solution as it works for me, but I will most likely upgrade to yours at some point.:geek:

View attachment 34531 View attachment 34533
This is brilliant, then I just call my dog over to light up the charge port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Here's a quick video about changes I have made. I think I have all the videos for the charge port light updated on here. When you click one should take you to Photo Guy and not Gordy Photography.

 

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Thanks so much for the videos Photo guy! They were very thorough even for somebody like me who has no idea what they're doing. I'm going to attempt this myself, even though it's always daylight out when I plug in my car haha.

I could have missed it, but the one thing I didn't see in your videos was instructions on actually crimping the wires? I found another video (well, more of a slideshow) that shows that for anybody else who might need it:
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Great Nate I am sorry about not showing how I did some of the process. I will make more videos with better instruction. I bought a tripod that will hold my phone so I can show how to with out setting it down every time. That sideshow isn't to bad it shows what they look like when crimped, which is important to get the water seal crimped into place.
 

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Photo Guy,
What are the implications of disconnecting the 12v battery? What memory will it lose, radio presets etc? Should I use one of those 9v memory keepers while it is disconnected? TIA
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The only thing I noticed on mine is one of the tire sensors had to relearn it had 2 dashes --. But straightened up with a short drive. No memory loss of radio stations, my range average or anything else. I do recommend disconnect the ground first then the positive,then when you put them back power first then ground. This should help from sparks and possible power surge.
 

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When installing the pins in the back of the plug, how far in do they go? I can only get mine in to where the yellow silicon gasket is crimped on. That apparently isn't far enough in as it falls out. Does any of the yellow gasket go into the hole in the plug? Or does it stay entirely outside the plug? I think I could get it in if the silicon gasket weren't there. Could you leave the yellow gasket out entirely and seal it with silicon? Some close-ups of a crimped-on pin would be very helpful. I have the same kit from amazon you have so the pins should be the same. Everything else is going as planned. Battery came out without a hitch. Wire is routed and ready to go. Your help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Never mind! I got it figured out. Apparently I used a larger gauge wire or it had thicker insulation as they wouldn't slide into the back of the plug. I ended up having to trim the insulation so it would fit into the plug. Since I couldn't fit the yellow gaskets on I sealed it with some sealing glue. Put it all back together and it works! Thanks for the help, I couldn't have done it without your videos. Keep them coming!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Sorry muleears I'm just get back on here and seeing your post. I did take some small pliers and pulled the pins the rest of the way through that worked for me glad to see you got it figured out
 

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So I just did this today I ordered 1 meter sections of Red yellow and orange LED neon. I settled on the orange because it kinda matches the DCFC flap and I didn't want green.
Things I found:
  1. Take off positive wire shield before you disconnect the Positive wire. You can skip taking it off but it really sucks trying to put it back on.
  2. OMG all the wire holders all over the battery tray are a real pain in the butt. They are the christmas tree style so they just pull out and push back in with a lot of force without breaking. You can also push from the back side if you can reach it.
  3. Choose which you like doing least criping the wires or soldering the wires and do that ahead of time.
    1. if you solder the wires first you have to reach into the engine bay to crimp the wires
    2. if you crimp the wires first you have to solder right next to the car.
    3. If you feel lucky you can pull the wire through cut it to length and do both and pull the crimped in through the hole.
  4. Push the pin in from the back while looking at the front. There are 3 holes and you want the pin to go through the middle hole, this was not easy. I used a pair of curved needle nose pliers.
  5. I had a really hard time shoving the pins into the connector past the waterproofing grommet. I don't have the proper crimp tool to so that's probably why.
  6. the pins are too long but it doesn't seem to matter
  7. don't use the silicone sealant until after it's in. That stuff grabs all the dirt from everywhere and glues it to the pristine LED Neon.
  8. I have no idea how photo guy was able to route the wire up through the top. The path my wire took was down to the top of the wheel well and then over to just under the battery tray. I was able to grab it above the tire around the spring shock and redirect it to just under the battery tray. I then zip tied it to the orange DCFC cables to make sure it stayed on closer to the fender. pictures attached.
Thanks again to Photo Guy for making the tutorial and finding the parts.


IMG_20210611_091736146.jpg IMG_20210611_091741507.jpg IMG_20210611_145524336.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Great write up Matt you hit it right on with every point. I like the color looks perfect. 👍
 
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