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OK, living in SoCal it took a few weeks to notice this but last night driving the Bolt home it was a little chilly and we couldn't get warm. I cranked the heater up to MAX temperature and not a bit of heat comes out. Thinking I was doing something wrong I re-read the manual, looked up posts here and tried every setting this morning but no heat. I'm assuming I need to bring back to the dealer to check out.

Before I go that route anyone have any easy checks? I looked at the fuses but honestly the only one I found that seemed to be related is called Aux Heat pump at 10 AMPs. The AC has worked fine on hot days; but I'd like this to work right as I have less than 500 miles on the car.

Is the heater electric or another system? I've read other threads complaining about too much heat; let's trade!!
 

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Yes, the heater is electric. Did you hit the "Auto" button on the heat adjustment knob? I found that I can get the settings all jacked up and hitting the "Auto" button rights all my wrongs.
 

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Yes, the heater is electric. Did you hit the "Auto" button on the heat adjustment knob? I found that I can get the settings all jacked up and hitting the "Auto" button rights all my wrongs.
Yes, I read the manual and tried everything including the Auto button on the knob.

If it is electric it makes me wonder if the connection to the heater is just loose. If anyone knows where it is located I would take a look and see if I can check the connection.
 

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See page 253 of the manual. Then pop the hood. It is a electric, tankless hot water heater, just like we have in our back bathroom. But this one is 400 volts DC, not 120 volts AC. You had better hope the plug is not loose. :)

The heater is all the way back in the passenger side, against the firewall. It has an orange plug for the power, and heater hoses going into, and out of the right-hand side. Just to the right of the heater is its coolant reservoir. It should show pink coolant up to within an inch or so of the top. If you have the heater on high, the metal tankless heater should be almost too hot to touch. The hoses will be warm, as will the reservoir, If you put you hand on the reservoir, you should feel vibration from the 12 volt circulation pump, which is presumably what that fuse is for. The 12 volt coolant circulation pump is about a foot below the reservoir. You can just about see it with a flashlight, if you stick your head in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
See page 253 of the manual. Then pop the hood. It is a electric, tankless hot water heater, just like we have in our back bathroom. But this one is 400 volts DC, not 120 volts AC. You had better hope the plug is not loose. :)

The heater is all the way back in the passenger side, against the firewall. It has an orange plug for the power, and heater hoses going into, and out of the right-hand side. Just to the right of the heater is its coolant reservoir. It should show pink coolant up to within an inch or so of the top. If you have the heater on high, the metal tankless heater should be almost too hot to touch. The hoses will be warm, as will the reservoir, If you put you hand on the reservoir, you should feel vibration from the 12 volt circulation pump, which is presumably what that fuse is for. The 12 volt coolant circulation pump is about a foot below the reservoir. You can just about see it with a flashlight, if you stick your head in there.
Thanks George, I went out and took a look and here is what I found which is even more confusing. Photo below to verify I am looking at the right components.

After looking over the connections which all seemed fine I cranked the heat to high in two modes, Auto and Manual.

Auto - pump is running, can feel fluid routing but the metal box gets colder to the touch as if AC running through it. Feels like car is blowing AC cold air.
Manual - no pump running, no fluid routing, metal box ambient. Feels like car is blowing ambient air.

Makes me think this is a control issue now.
 

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Thanks George, I went out and took a look and here is what I found which is even more confusing. Photo below to verify I am looking at the right components.

After looking over the connections which all seemed fine I cranked the heat to high in two modes, Auto and Manual.

Auto - pump is running, can feel fluid routing but the metal box gets colder to the touch as if AC running through it. Feels like car is blowing AC cold air.
Manual - no pump running, no fluid routing, metal box ambient. Feels like car is blowing ambient air.

Makes me think this is a control issue now.
That is the heater all right! And those shiny hoses running above it are AC hoses, not relevant.

OK. In Manual mode, did you have the fan turned on? The heat and AC will not run, without the fan turned on. I assume this happens automatically in Auto mode (never tried it).

[Edit] Obviously you had the fan on. That is how you felt ambient air blowing. Sorry.

The AC is a completely different (refrigerant, not water) circuit, with its own heat exchanger under the dash. The cold you feel is just circulating, ambient temperature, 50/50 antifreeze sucking heat away. In Manual mode, without the pump circulating the antifreeze solution through the heater core, the static coolant in the under dash heater core can't suck up nearly as much heat from the cabin air.

In any event, the tankless heater is not coming on for some reason. Time to see the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That is the heater all right! And those shiny hoses running above it are AC hoses, not relevant.

OK. In Manual mode, did you have the fan turned on? The heat and AC will not run, without the fan turned on. I assume this happens automatically in Auto mode (never tried it).

[Edit] Obviously you had the fan on. That is how you felt ambient air blowing. Sorry.

The AC is a completely different (refrigerant, not water) circuit, with its own heat exchanger under the dash. The cold you feel is just circulating, ambient temperature, 50/50 antifreeze sucking heat away. In Manual mode, without the pump circulating the antifreeze solution through the heater core, the static coolant in the under dash heater core can't suck up nearly as much heat from the cabin air.

In any event, the tankless heater is not coming on for some reason. Time to see the dealer.
Yup, thanks again. Went out and seated all the fuses with a good push as one last try but no go. I guess I'll find out how my local dealer's service actually works.
 

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try max defrost and turn temp all the way up. Even in manual modes the heating / cooling system has a mind of its own. I sometimes just want fan on the windshield in the cold just to keep it from foggin up so I set heat and fan manually and turn off recirculate and heat & coll button and yet still with windshield selected the heater still runs :(
 

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Good rule of thumb I found was when I wanted heat, I just set the target temp to 25F above outside air and made sure heating/cooling was on and the air directed to the center vents (not the feet or the defrosters). When in doubt, however, max out the target temp and if that still doesn't generate heat, sounds like a warranty issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
try max defrost and turn temp all the way up. Even in manual modes the heating / cooling system has a mind of its own. I sometimes just want fan on the windshield in the cold just to keep it from foggin up so I set heat and fan manually and turn off recirculate and heat & coll button and yet still with windshield selected the heater still runs :(
Thanks but no go.
 

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Good rule of thumb I found was when I wanted heat, I just set the target temp to 25F above outside air and made sure heating/cooling was on and the air directed to the center vents (not the feet or the defrosters). When in doubt, however, max out the target temp and if that still doesn't generate heat, sounds like a warranty issue.
Yup all tests on "HI" temp setting but not a bit of heat.
 

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Yup all tests on "HI" temp setting but not a bit of heat.
I had a thought. It could be as a simple as a burned out/broken heating element in the tankless heater. I don't suggest anybody who isn't a trained electrician attempt this. An electrician, wearing appropriate gloves and face shield, with the car powered off, could remove the 400 volt DC plug from the heater, check for voltage at the plug, with a VOM, to make sure it is not hot. Then check the heater side of the connection for continuity. There should be some amount of resistance...say 15-25 ohm range.
 

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I had a thought. It could be as a simple as a burned out/broken heating element in the tankless heater. I don't suggest anybody who isn't a trained electrician attempt this. An electrician, wearing appropriate gloves and face shield, with the car powered off, could remove the 400 volt DC plug from the heater, check for voltage at the plug, with a VOM, to make sure it is not hot. Then check the heater side of the connection for continuity. There should be some amount of resistance...say 15-25 ohm range.
While I just installed my Clipper Creek charger this weekend; I know my limits with electricity and the above is beyond where I would go. Besides, the dealer needs to fix this; it's brand new.
 

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Is it possible that the heating element simply won't turn on if the outside temp is above a specified value?
 

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Ours comes on fine, even at 90F outside temps.

Well, that answers *that* question! I'm just throwing out ideas. The EV-1's HVAC acted kind of wonky, and it had to do with the outside temperature. The EV-1's HVAC used a heat pump for both heat and AC.
 

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The OP only posted eight times, hasn’t posted in four months, and never followed up on his post.

I assume he froze to death, but at least we revived this thread!
 

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The OP only posted eight times, hasn’t posted in four months, and never followed up on his post.

I assume he froze to death, but at least we revived this thread!
Now if only we could do the same for him! :D
 
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