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Nice install. Clean looking. I am going to clean mine up next year. I installed it in a rush and it's an octopus.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I went with the Q merit recommendation for a local installer, and the installer that showed up didn’t seem to know a lot. He said he did a tesla installation last week. I was worried at the beginning, but in the end he did a good job. Installation took about 4 1/2 hours and cost me 950 bucks
 

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Yeah I went with the Q merit recommendation for a local installer, and the installer that showed up didn’t seem to know a lot. He said he did a tesla installation last week. I was worried at the beginning, but in the end he did a good job. Installation took about 4 1/2 hours and cost me 950 bucks
Did the $950 include the cost of the Chargepoint also?

How far from your panel was the run?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No that was the labor and material. The charger has about 30’ of conduit ran to the panel.
 

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Would you mind sharing more details about your install? Did he just put a new 40/50A breaker in the existing panel? What AWG wire was used? Did the installation require a permit?

I've got a similar situation but will require a sub panel or a larger main panel and am considering doing a portion of the work myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Would you mind sharing more details about your install? Did he just put a new 40/50A breaker in the existing panel? What AWG wire was used? Did the installation require a permit?

I've got a similar situation but will require a sub panel or a larger main panel and am considering doing a portion of the work myself.
I had plenty of room in my 200 amp panel (Square D) so he added a 50amp breaker. He used an 8 gauge wire run about 30 feet to a leviton nema outlet. I bought the ChargePoint from Amazon with 25 foot line for 599.00 Amazon Services quoted $649 to install UP TO 5' from the panel. From 5' to 30' that installation price doubled! I wound up using Qmerit to solicit bids for qualified installers. I only had one bidder and was happy that they were only $850 for the 30' run.
 

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That seems right on par with the 4 quotes I got. I ended up doing it myself and it was a pain in the ass. I put in a subpanel in my garage. I used PVC conduit for the run, didn't want to spend the money for the NM cable especially since I would have to go up a gauge or two because it's a bundle per code (heat issues). I pulled a permit, that cost $55. I ran #2AWG to the subpanel, I followed the 75 degree C ratings per code, not the 90. I followed the 80% rule for continuous load circuits but also tried where I could to always pull wire one gauge better than what I needed. I ran #6AWG to the charger (which surprisingly has a pinch of warmth from the cable when charging) and I ran #6AWG to the backup NEMA 50A outlet. So, since NM cable was uber expensive and I had to up the gauge due to code/limitations to cable I ran it all in 1 1/4 PVC SCH 40. I pulled it with a nylon rope. There was one moment, where I just wanted to cry, it was a pain to get that pulled. If you have 2 people, one to push and work it through who is strong it would be much nicer. My assistant was a cupcake.

This is what the run that had to be pulled looks like. There are 3 large black cables (2xLine and 1 Neutral), the ground which code allows you to downsize a pinch, the nylon rope .... my pull string and an unused high voltage 8 pair that is for a future metering project. The branch to the right is where the 2nd EVSE wire run will be if I ever have 2, which I hope happens.

evserun.jpg

This is the subpanel with only the EVSE completed.
evsebox1.jpg

This is after I added the additional outlets, not really needed. But I added a panel GFCI 20amp, an RV 30amp and the backup 50amp I talked about before .... which will allow me to use the OEM charger at 240v (with adapter) if my JuiceBox 40 fails.

evsebox2.jpg

As you can see, it does get busy in there. The open breaker spot in the upper right there is for the 2nd EVSE. The subpanel in the garage was about $40, it's the outside all weather model .... my inspector 'suggested' that when I applied for the permit and walked through the install. The wire was not cheap, and sadly I have a lot left over. I had to buy a bolt cutter because I wasn't going to dick around with using a hacksaw to cut it. They mak circuit breakers in 5 amp increments but the stores don't carry anything but the common ones. I got lazy and just bought the 100amp breaker, put that in my main panel.

This is my less than brilliant conduit run that penetrates to the garage. It's been braced since this picture was taken, but luckily the main panel is a straight run stage right from here, but the entire depth run of the house.
20181023_012107.jpg

This is what the straight run ended up being, not terribly challenging.

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This is the 'main' breaker panel. I did a self-install of a whole house generator so moving the service entrance for that project actually helped me here as I had that center opening at the top of the panel to now use again. The center PVC pipe is the garage run. There's only the ground in there right now.
20181023_012343.jpg

As luck would have it, the garage circuit is bottom left, a 100 amp breaker. The conduit on the bottom right is the service feed into the main panel, from the generator transfer switch. The panel to the right is my project I'm working on right now .... finishing the basement.
mainpanel.jpg 20181023_012335.jpg

I went through only 1 bottle of lube, and quite frankly didn't need it all but I used it all. And the main panel with the 100amp breaker there bottom left for the garage.

20181027_143417.jpg 20190628_125912.jpg
 

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is pvc pipe "code" for a 240 line?
It is in Wisconsin. In fact, the service line from the utility. Specifically from my electric utility meter that is outside of my house, to the 'inside' of my house is PVC conduit (I call it pipe sometimes). I used PVC pipe because it was cheaper, not necessarily better. I could run NM cable and not have used any pipe/conduit until things got exposed but the electrical engineering codes require you to use thicker gauge wire when using cable because of heat issues. So, it was more expensive for two reasons; more copper and they charge a 'premium' for the cable. It was cheaper for me to run individual wires inside conduit/pipe than to buy the cable. It wasn't easier, just cheaper.
 

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I was lucky since we had a 90 amp subpanel put in the garage when we bought the house new in 2006 as I wanted plenty of power and I figured electric vehicles would be a thing some day. Our houses have detached rear garages and by default they only ran one 20 amp circuit out there. A couple of neighbors have had to pay big bucks to have someone trench the a new line or they just added their EVSE on the side of the house and park outside the garage when they charge.

I added a 40 amp breaker and ran it myself.
27095
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so far so good, only having to charge once weekly, but when I need to take a long trip, nice to know I can get full charge over night.. Charger is pretty cool looking in the evening, putting off a pulsing glow as it charges..

27143
 

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I am seeing recommendation for reduce the cell cycling with more frequent charging... might consider setting your At Home Max to 80% (16 of the tiny bars) or Hill Top Reserve Mode if you have an older model, and charge it 2-3 times a week.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hmm, didn’t know that. I do currently have target charge set to 80%. So say plug in Monday, Wednesday and Friday?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So, if after 3 days I’m still above 50%? I commute like 2 miles to work one way. Work. A plan for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I have had the car about 3 weeks and have around ~530 miles mostly from the drive up home from the dealer, and joyriding. But yeah, work commuting is 25 mi a week.
 
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