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We bought our Bolt last August. Just found this group. I really like the car, how it drives and looks. Was looking for a Plug-in Hybrid and decided to go all the way to EV. Not sure sometimes if I jumped in too soon. I found that running a 220 charge at home is a problem because our service amperage is only 100. Really expensive to upgrade the service. We are OK with home charging at 110. Mainly drive around the city of Cincinnati. Winter was a bit of a rude awakening, though. Here are my troubles/concerns:

1. I got duped into taking the "software update". We charge 110, we have no garage, so the fire risks are low. I'm perfectly capable of managing charging settings, but now all the settings are disabled. We want to take a road trip but the crippled charging is discouraging. I wonder if it is possible to revert the software to before the update?

2. Since I hardly ever charge the car away from home, I'm really awkward at using the fast charging stations. We are older and fairly computer savvy, but doing everything on our phones is awkward and inconvenient. Every time I've done it (about 4 times) there have been problems getting it started and understanding the payment. Different networks have different ways. One time, I made a couple errors getting started and got extra fees that I had to have the company remove.

3. We have iPhones and find that the connection to CarPlay is erratic. We use GPS everywhere we go, but sometimes it just doesn't respond. Or it works and then stops working. Even when it works the displayed functions are different. This can be very hard when we are navigating in unfamiliar territory and I have to start holding my phone up to see what is happening. Sometimes, starting the car displayed navigation asks to start the navigation, then kills it on the phone. I have to plug in/ unplug several times. A few times I just have to give up. I didn't understand the way wireless connection works until we rented a Ford Escape where we didn't have to plug it in. Getting it going was a little funky, but worked well once we got it figured out. I see there is a device we can leave plugged into the car that will automatically connect to the phone. Do this work or will I have the same problem of poor connection?

I suppose there are other places to post these questions, but I got started, so here it is.

Doug Beezley
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Congratulations !
As an owner who also has a 100 A old house, let me tell you what I did : I bought and installed a LCS-20 from Clipper Creek (16A on a 20A circuit) in 2014 for my Volt and it works just fine for my Bolt EV too. It does its job and it charges just fine my Bolt EV (even when doing 200 km a day), it is full every morning.
 

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2021 Bolt LT Cayenne Orange Metallic
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I'll 2nd the LCS-20 solution if you want faster. We too have just 100 amp service. Charging @ 16 amps on Level 2, was all our 2018 Volt could take. It's plenty fast for our Bolt. We charge overnight, so it's a can of corn on our 100 amp service.

And Congratulations too!
 

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Re: CarPlay issues. If one of the issues you're experiencing is intermittent disconnects, try a different USB cable. We were always having issues with music & maps disconnecting until I swapped the cheapo cable for an Apple branded USB-lightning cable. Rock solid since then. The old cable still works fine for charging.
 

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3. We have iPhones and find that the connection to CarPlay is erratic. We use GPS everywhere we go, but sometimes it just doesn't respond. Or it works and then stops working. Even when it works the displayed functions are different.
If you plug the iPhone, do you still have CarPlay available ? If so, use this instead of the wireless CarPlay.

The GPS is based on the phone signal more than CarPlay signal... if you travel in an area where the coverage is mediocre at best... tough luck. Usually the OnStar package "Connected" does the trick in these situations. It looks like the equipment that comes in the Bolt EV is a lot better than an iPhone for getting the signal.
 

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Welcome to the forum!

...I found that running a 220 charge at home is a problem because our service amperage is only 100. Really expensive to upgrade the service...
...As an owner who also has a 100 A old house, let me tell you what I did : I bought and installed a LCS-20 from Clipper Creek (16A on a 20A circuit) in 2014 for my Volt and it works just fine for my Bolt EV too...
Voldar is suggesting that you may be able to install a 240V circuit without changing the wiring in the walls. You would have an electrician change the breakers and the outlet. You would be limited to the current rating of the wiring (typically 20A for 120V circuits), so at most 80% x 20A = 16A for a Level 2 EVSE. Others have even used the OEM EVSE that comes with the Bolt on 240V using a plug adapter; it's a rebranded Webasto / Clipper Creek unit that is capable of 240V, but only labeled for 120V.

...I'm perfectly capable of managing charging settings, but now all the settings are disabled. We want to take a road trip but the crippled charging is discouraging. I wonder if it is possible to revert the software to before the update?
Check to see if you have location-based charging turned on. Some of the charge settings are only available if that setting is turned on. Installing the software update does reset several of the settings, but should not disable them. The only limitation is that you cannot set a target charge level about 80%.

...We have iPhones and find that the connection to CarPlay is erratic. We use GPS everywhere we go, but sometimes it just doesn't respond. Or it works and then stops working. Even when it works the displayed functions are different...I see there is a device we can leave plugged into the car that will automatically connect to the phone. Do this work or will I have the same problem of poor connection?
I have an Android, so I can't speak to iPhone and CarPlay specifically. However, I've found that if I try to plug in my phone right away, the Android Auto function doesn't always start up correctly. If I wait until the car is fully started (all the warning lights on the dash go off, the infotainment screen is completely up and running), then plug in my phone, Android Auto seems to start up more reliably.

As for your iPhone, it's always a good idea to check if there is a software update available. Also, some forum members have reported problems with older iPhones and Apple CarPlay, so if you have an older iPhone and you'e willing to upgrade, that might help.

As for wireless CarPlay adapters, there are several available. Here are some threads about them (I also encourage you to search the forum for answers to your questions):



 

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Two major pieces of advice

1.) RTFM. (That's Read the Effing Manual)

2.) Read and absorb everything of interest here. I've spent months doing this, and still learn something new every day.
 

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I also use a 16A 240V charger on a 12 gauge/20 Amp circuit. I got lucky and found a branch circuit in the breaker box that had only one outlet box on it, and it terminated in the box under the porch near the driveway. It had a 120V breaker on the branch, but I swapped it out for a 240V breaker and put a NEMA 16-20 outlet in the box. Total cost was probably $50-$100 to get a 240V outlet next to the driveway, using the existing branch circuit. This is what I use for charging at a weekend lake cabin about 100 miles from our home.

When I'm at home, I charge using the Chevy-provided L1 charger on a 120V outlet near the driveway, in the cellar of our 1920s home. I keep meaning to run a 240V branch for the charger, but in 2 years I haven't needed it yet...
 

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We bought our Bolt last August. Just found this group. I really like the car, how it drives and looks. Was looking for a Plug-in Hybrid and decided to go all the way to EV. Not sure sometimes if I jumped in too soon. I found that running a 220 charge at home is a problem because our service amperage is only 100. Really expensive to upgrade the service. We are OK with home charging at 110. Mainly drive around the city of Cincinnati. Winter was a bit of a rude awakening, though. Here are my troubles/concerns:

1. I got duped into taking the "software update". We charge 110, we have no garage, so the fire risks are low. I'm perfectly capable of managing charging settings, but now all the settings are disabled. We want to take a road trip but the crippled charging is discouraging. I wonder if it is possible to revert the software to before the update?

2. Since I hardly ever charge the car away from home, I'm really awkward at using the fast charging stations. We are older and fairly computer savvy, but doing everything on our phones is awkward and inconvenient. Every time I've done it (about 4 times) there have been problems getting it started and understanding the payment. Different networks have different ways. One time, I made a couple errors getting started and got extra fees that I had to have the company remove.

3. We have iPhones and find that the connection to CarPlay is erratic. We use GPS everywhere we go, but sometimes it just doesn't respond. Or it works and then stops working. Even when it works the displayed functions are different. This can be very hard when we are navigating in unfamiliar territory and I have to start holding my phone up to see what is happening. Sometimes, starting the car displayed navigation asks to start the navigation, then kills it on the phone. I have to plug in/ unplug several times. A few times I just have to give up. I didn't understand the way wireless connection works until we rented a Ford Escape where we didn't have to plug it in. Getting it going was a little funky, but worked well once we got it figured out. I see there is a device we can leave plugged into the car that will automatically connect to the phone. Do this work or will I have the same problem of poor connection?

I suppose there are other places to post these questions, but I got started, so here it is.

Doug Beezley View attachment 43442
The LCS-20 is a great choice if you don't anticipate upgrading your current service or moving somewhere else. If you think you might do one of those things, you can also look at the Grizzl-E home charger, which has dip switches you can set (directions very good) or an electrician could do it for you. Those switches allow you to set it to 16/24/32/40Amps. If you can squeeze in a 20A breaker, set it to 16A. If in the future you upgrade your service or move somewhere with 200A service, you can reset the dip switches to whatever that panel can offer you.
 

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Welcome to the forum... love the nice EV!! great color.
I also did a work around on the 240 volt issue and charging... 110 was just not quite enough for me. so I got an adapter that would fit into my Dryer outlet and plugged my EVSE (OEM) into that and got much better charging from that, I think I could have been just fine with that set up, if it wasn't for having to use the Dryer... LOL. I also had to run a 10 ga. extension cord to reach my car from back of house to front.
This is one great forum with Brainiac's who have helped me immensely!!
Go Bolt Nation!!
 

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I have 100A service and even at 24A at night it only takes 8Kw for charger and home loads at night. You may be able to ask professional to do a calculation to see how far you can overamp. A 100A panel should provide 24Kw but can be over amped depending on your local calculation.

Yes, as above should be able to use a low current 240VAC EVSE and easily charge overnight.

The software is not terrible. It is a safety issue. It can warn you that you are about to catch fire.

Yes, the software is a hassle but it offers more mileage over the prior suggested values.

You need to get 6 apps on phone, two rfid cards, credit balance on a few charge sites and have a phone and credit card handy.
The state of DC charges may have to getting power well before you run out. Always plan for disaster.
 

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Grizzl-e classic can be set to run at 16 amps. It's a a well built unit and made in Canada.

I don't think you can roll back the update. Once you get a new battery they will give you back all your capacity though.

We are about to take our Bolt from Toledo area down near Cincinnati.
 

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We currently have 100A service at our house and when we moved in, I had several higher amperage 110V and 220V receptacles added to my garage. One of them is a 50A 220V outlet for my welder. We've been using that outlet with a charger and it's been fine charging our Ioniq 5 in the evenings. I guess we don't use much electricity in our house during that time because we've never tripped the breaker.
 

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We bought our Bolt last August. Just found this group. I really like the car, how it drives and looks. Was looking for a Plug-in Hybrid and decided to go all the way to EV. Not sure sometimes if I jumped in too soon. I found that running a 220 charge at home is a problem because our service amperage is only 100. Really expensive to upgrade the service. We are OK with home charging at 110. Mainly drive around the city of Cincinnati. Winter was a bit of a rude awakening, though. Here are my troubles/concerns:

1. I got duped into taking the "software update". We charge 110, we have no garage, so the fire risks are low. I'm perfectly capable of managing charging settings, but now all the settings are disabled. We want to take a road trip but the crippled charging is discouraging. I wonder if it is possible to revert the software to before the update?

2. Since I hardly ever charge the car away from home, I'm really awkward at using the fast charging stations. We are older and fairly computer savvy, but doing everything on our phones is awkward and inconvenient. Every time I've done it (about 4 times) there have been problems getting it started and understanding the payment. Different networks have different ways. One time, I made a couple errors getting started and got extra fees that I had to have the company remove.

3. We have iPhones and find that the connection to CarPlay is erratic. We use GPS everywhere we go, but sometimes it just doesn't respond. Or it works and then stops working. Even when it works the displayed functions are different. This can be very hard when we are navigating in unfamiliar territory and I have to start holding my phone up to see what is happening. Sometimes, starting the car displayed navigation asks to start the navigation, then kills it on the phone. I have to plug in/ unplug several times. A few times I just have to give up. I didn't understand the way wireless connection works until we rented a Ford Escape where we didn't have to plug it in. Getting it going was a little funky, but worked well once we got it figured out. I see there is a device we can leave plugged into the car that will automatically connect to the phone. Do this work or will I have the same problem of poor connection?

I suppose there are other places to post these questions, but I got started, so here it is.

Doug Beezley View attachment 43442
Consider doing or having an energy audit done. I have 100amp service too, but even if I literally turn everything & every item on and plug everything in my house I only pull 70 amps of power (everything is led) Since this not realistic I could easily 32amp 240v and do normal day to day stuff.
 

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Consider doing or having an energy audit done. I have 100amp service too, but even if I literally turn everything & every item on and plug everything in my house I only pull 70 amps of power (everything is led) Since this not realistic I could easily 32amp 240v and do normal day to day stuff.
Since moving to our house in 1985, I bet we now have a lower maximum load. Virtually every light bulb then was 40-100 watt incandescent. Now they are all 7-20 watt led or flourescent. Our two window ACs pull fewer amps than our first ones did. Our two tablets less than my one big desktop computer. Same for our TVs.

Every major appliance has been replaced with more efficient ones. Our range used to be all electric, now only the oven is. And nothing of significance has been added.

Our Bolt, is charged off a 20 amp circuit that used to be a 30 amp circuit for an electric dryer, which we replaced with a gas one. We had to drop it to 20 amps, because the preexisting and previously unused wire running underground to our detached garage is only 12 gauge.

So if our 100 amp service was enough then, it's enough now. And like you, we could probably charge at 32 amps, if the line to the garage was sufficient.
 
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My 2021 has solid (wired) Apple Carplay with Waze. Somehow it shows the Waze map without opening the App, when I'm not doing navigation, but USB plugged in. Sometimes the cable or (?) USB port can barely keep a navigating Iphone SE fully charged. I love my Grizzl-e, and charge at 24 Amps/240 V to baby the battery.

You are right that roadtrips with 80% limit are a trial. I feel I deserve more compensation than a new battery, but that's capitalism for you. Broken chargers and faulty near-field or credit-card readers are very common between NJ and Maine, a more-serious problem.

Edit: I am no Apple expert, but I wonder if you are trying to do other things with your phone at the same time, like playing music? You might also experiment with turning off or on the phone's Bluetooth. I believe the 2021 can only do Carplay by wire, not Bluetooth. But Bluetooth Audio is sometimes a confusion.
 

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Consider doing or having an energy audit done. I have 100amp service too, but even if I literally turn everything & every item on and plug everything in my house I only pull 70 amps of power (everything is led) Since this not realistic I could easily 32amp 240v and do normal day to day stuff.
I have a 100 amp subpanel in my garage and was looking at adding an electric heat pump water heater and was concerned with my loads including charging my EVs. Found this panel calculation for a 100 amp panel that includes about everything I was concerned about.
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You are right that roadtrips with 80% limit are a trial. I feel I deserve more compensation than a new battery, but that's capitalism for you.
Some people are being compensated quite generously, getting new Bolts or other GM vehicles in exchange for their old Bolts, and at no cost. Some have to pay just for usage on their old Bolts. Others are taking straight buybacks. Did you look into the options in your state?
 

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Some people are being compensated quite generously, getting new Bolts or other GM vehicles in exchange for their old Bolts, and at no cost. Some have to pay just for usage on their old Bolts. Others are taking straight buybacks. Did you look into the options in your state?
I "traded" a '17 Premier for a '21 Premier and came out ahead $12k. Mine wasn't the best deal reported here, either.
 
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