I replaced my worn out stock tires 2 months ago and after 200 miles I still have a 20% hit. I used to charge full up to 210 (75-80mph) around 3.3kwh now I'm around 175. I can't figure out why except it likes bald tires. I replaced it with factory spec since it's a lease and I turn it in next month. Oh well, the seats are horrible had the driver side replaced once now it makes all kinds of noises again, next month it's a model 3 for $10K more.
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New tires = 20% efficiency loss?!?!
At 83k, it was finally time to ditch the OEM tires. Getting that many miles out of original tires is proof I drive quite gently (most of the time, anyway)
Yesterday I bought a set of Bridgestone Turanza QuietTracks.
And quiet they are, but I sure seem to have taken a heckuva efficiency hit. My lifetime dashboard efficiency average is 4.81 mi / kWh since most of my driving is in warm flat Florida at around-town speeds - more evidence of my conservative driving style.
Yesterday's driving characteristics (even less freeway than usual) should have resulted in a daily calculated efficiency in the 5.0 - 5.25 range, but all I got was 4.21.
Midday, I aired them up to sidewall max (50 psig) - that seemed to help, but not much
Yikes - I sure hope these tires get better with age!
Yesterday I bought a set of Bridgestone Turanza QuietTracks.
And quiet they are, but I sure seem to have taken a heckuva efficiency hit. My lifetime dashboard efficiency average is 4.81 mi / kWh since most of my driving is in warm flat Florida at around-town speeds - more evidence of my conservative driving style.
Yesterday's driving characteristics (even less freeway than usual) should have resulted in a daily calculated efficiency in the 5.0 - 5.25 range, but all I got was 4.21.
Midday, I aired them up to sidewall max (50 psig) - that seemed to help, but not much
Yikes - I sure hope these tires get better with age!
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And the new ones are the same Michelin energy-saver self-seal tires that came stock? If so, very odd.I replaced my worn out stock tires 2 months ago and after 200 miles I still have a 20% hit. I used to charge full up to 210 (75-80mph) around 3.3kwh now I'm around 175. I can't figure out why except it likes bald tires. I replaced it with factory spec since it's a lease and I turn it in next month. Oh well, the seats are horrible had the driver side replaced once now it makes all kinds of noises again, next month it's a model 3 for $10K more.
Yep, I made it a point to make sure I got the same tires. Didn't want to get dinged on a lease. I do drive always on freeway at 75-80 but am always trying to get the best mileage as a game. It's seemed the new tires are when it turned. I never got 220 as advertised unless I stay under 55 but sure got better mileage when they became low on tread. Is that weird averaging 3.2? How does one check anyway the battery is good.And the new ones are the same Michelin energy-saver self-seal tires that came stock? If so, very odd.
Most curious. I do drive under 60 and at the posted 55 on secondary roads, but during the summer, I always get 270 miles with a generous buffer still in the battery. I don't think I drive in any particular way to get that range. Of course, winter range is less.
What is your average? Mine s around 3.2-3.6 m/kWH
In CA if you went 55 even when posted you would get rear ended unless it's side streets. The cops here say 9 you are fine and 10 you are mine. 75 is slow lane on my commute. I wonder too if it's the type of road, must be if tires matter so much. I have a lot of grooved highway, very little smooth pavement. I also notice in the rain my mileage is terrible. All this car taught me is I'm never going back to gas. I did try a Hyundai the hatch back which was same price and much nicer inside actually than the bolt but their resale value is so terrible a lease was way more than a Tesla lease and I don't think I'd buy a Hyundai, just because they are new to the game. We have a 2016 Tesla S 85 and it's a wonderful car but I applaud Chevy for making a good electric car even though the seats are terrible and the stereo needs help.
In CA if you went 55 even when posted you would get rear ended unless it's side streets. The cops here say 9 you are fine and 10 you are mine. 75 is slow lane on my commute. I wonder too if it's the type of road, must be if tires matter so much. I have a lot of grooved highway, very little smooth pavement. I also notice in the rain my mileage is terrible. All this car taught me is I'm never going back to gas. I did try a Hyundai the hatch back which was same price and much nicer inside actually than the bolt but their resale value is so terrible a lease was way more than a Tesla lease and I don't think I'd buy a Hyundai, just because they are new to the game. We have a 2016 Tesla S 85 and it's a wonderful car but I applaud Chevy for making a good electric car even though the seats are terrible and the stereo needs help.
I replaced my worn out stock tires 2 months ago and after 200 miles I still have a 20% hit. I used to charge full up to 210 (75-80mph) around 3.3kwh now I'm around 175. I can't figure out why except it likes bald tires. I replaced it with factory spec since it's a lease and I turn it in next month. Oh well, the seats are horrible had the driver side replaced once now it makes all kinds of noises again, next month it's a model 3 for $10K more.
If your tires were really worn they definitely had lower rolling resistance than new tires. As any avid road bicyclist can tell you, thicker rubber reduces the flexibility of the tire. Every time the tire is deformed at the contact patch that takes energy that is wasted as heat. The added tread groove depth of the new tire also generates more aero drag, and noise, than a slick.
GOM reads are not necessarily the same as actual mi/kWh. What was your average mi/kWh on the same trips before and after the tire change? The fact that your miles per kilowatt hour went down with new tires makes perfect sense, and has nothing to do with battery capacity.
It sounds like you really want a reason to buy a Model 3. That is fine. Just understand that the Model 3 will be effected by tire wear in exactly the same way.
I usually get about 4.7 miles / kWh. I suppose if I had to drive in CA, I'd tag along a bit behind the trucks. But, if I was doing a lot of freeway driving, I suspect that a Tesla would be a better choice. I know that efficiency can change due to tire mileage, but I would think that your new set would get at least as good as the old set when it was new, unless Michelin changed the tire somehow. For local use, I think the seats work ok, but on my next trip I'll be trying out my Purple seat cushion, or even having the driver's seat rebuilt with more padding if I start doing more long trips.What is your average? Mine s around 3.2-3.6 m/kWH
In CA if you went 55 even when posted you would get rear ended unless it's side streets. The cops here say 9 you are fine and 10 you are mine. 75 is slow lane on my commute. I wonder too if it's the type of road, must be if tires matter so much. I have a lot of grooved highway, very little smooth pavement. I also notice in the rain my mileage is terrible. All this car taught me is I'm never going back to gas. I did try a Hyundai the hatch back which was same price and much nicer inside actually than the bolt but their resale value is so terrible a lease was way more than a Tesla lease and I don't think I'd buy a Hyundai, just because they are new to the game. We have a 2016 Tesla S 85 and it's a wonderful car but I applaud Chevy for making a good electric car even though the seats are terrible and the stereo needs help.
I live in San Diego, CA. My cruising speed is 63 mph in the slow lane. 75 mph in slow lane doesn't happen here.
I'm getting 4.5 mile / kWh year round average. I used to drive Waze carpool. A passenger bought a Tesla model 3, his first EV. He was quite disappointed with his efficiency. He got slight above 3.5 mile / kWh equivalent (they use kWh / 100 miles). That was because he was driving above 70mph on the fast lane a lot.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I'm getting 4.5 mile / kWh year round average. I used to drive Waze carpool. A passenger bought a Tesla model 3, his first EV. He was quite disappointed with his efficiency. He got slight above 3.5 mile / kWh equivalent (they use kWh / 100 miles). That was because he was driving above 70mph on the fast lane a lot.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
yes I agree, there is a reason there are no treads on the racing tires. The curious thing for me is the m/kWh didn't change all that much. I know that would be the case with the Tesla too but for whatever reason we just changed our tires on the Tesla S and didn't notice and mileage drop. Maybe because it's a much heavier car? I do like the Bolt but I have the premier version which is the same price as a Tesla 3 and frankly there is no comparison. But I am always interested in the tech and the why being in engineering.
If your tires were really worn they definitely had lower rolling resistance than new tires. As any avid road bicyclist can tell you, thicker rubber reduces the flexibility of the tire. Every time the tire is deformed at the contact patch that takes energy that is wasted as heat. The added tread groove depth of the new tire also generates more aero drag, and noise, than a slick.
GOM reads are not necessarily the same as actual mi/kWh. What was your average mi/kWh on the same trips before and after the tire change? The fact that your miles per kilowatt hour went down with new tires makes perfect sense, and has nothing to do with battery capacity.
It sounds like you really want a reason to buy a Model 3. That is fine. Just understand that the Model 3 will be effected by tire wear in exactly the same way.
My seat makes creaking noise that make me think my back is cracking, second seat was fine for a few months and started doing it too. Here I thought I was just being a better EV driver and it was my tires going bald.
I usually get about 4.7 miles / kWh. I suppose if I had to drive in CA, I'd tag along a bit behind the trucks. But, if I was doing a lot of freeway driving, I suspect that a Tesla would be a better choice. I know that efficiency can change due to tire mileage, but I would think that your new set would get at least as good as the old set when it was new, unless Michelin changed the tire somehow. For local use, I think the seats work ok, but on my next trip I'll be trying out my Purple seat cushion, or even having the driver's seat rebuilt with more padding if I start doing more long trips.
The curious thing for me is the m/kWh didn't change all that much. I know that would be the case with the Tesla too but for whatever reason we just changed our tires on the Tesla S and didn't notice and mileage drop.
OK. The mi/kWh didn't change much, just as I would have suspected. I zero out the trip meter on every drive, as this gives an actual mi/kWh efficiency, unlike the GOM. The GOM uses an algorithm that updates over some period of time/miles My understanding is that the Model S uses a very different algorithm for its GOM, which does not change to reflect driving conditions, but rather battery degradation, so apples to oranges.
"...I carry an aftermarket donut spare. "MTM - exactly. Tire installer has ordered me OEM Michelins. I've opted out of the run flat - saves 2 pounds and $30 per tire, and I carry an aftermarket donut spare.
They say they are on the hook for the Bridgestone satisfaction guarantee...that seems odd, and if true I feel bad...then again we've bought all our tires their for years and years, and that extends to my HVAC company - 9 more vehicles there...they've done all right by me.
drdiesel - I have 600+ miles on the Quietracks - still seeing 20% lower mi / kWh
Just be sure to not put it on one side of the fronts. Different diameter tires on a transaxle can destroy it, due to different rotational speeds. If you do get a flat in the front, shift a rear wheel to the front, and put the donut on the rear. This isn't an issue with just the Bolt, or just FWD vehicles.
with some careful driving I'm able to bring my m/kWh up a little bit to around 3.5 to 3.6. Some of this could be driving faster because nobody is on the road. Driving the speed limit helps but here even at 5 over you will be passed by everyone on the freeway. Still Those of you who see that the most what kind of miles do you get? Also mine is a 2017, I heard there might be a newer battery? Is there a way to reset the guessometer and start fresh on the guess? My change certainly happened when I changed to new tires. Maybe getting a little better.
Is m/kWh how you guys are measuring "mileage"? Sorry new to all of this. Just put 175 miles on today and got 3.2 m/kWh. Thats with Bridgestones on the car, 4 people, AC on (comfortably) and 72 in a 65 on the highway for 80% of the trip. Is that good? Bad? No idea 
I would say normal considering the way the trip went.Is m/kWh how you guys are measuring "mileage"? Sorry new to all of this. Just put 175 miles on today and got 3.2 m/kWh. Thats with Bridgestones on the car, 4 people, AC on (comfortably) and 72 in a 65 on the highway for 80% of the trip. Is that good? Bad? No idea
I cruise at 63mph, min. AC/heat, under 2 persons, OEM tires inflated to 42psi. 4.5 miles / kWh year round.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I have a 2017 Bolt Premier, and the OEMs, which were AWFUL for traction in the NorthEast, were tossed at 31,000. Could've gotten a little more before they were legally worn out, but I HATED them. Bought Vredestein Quatrac 5's, which are all-season and low rolling resistance, and too NO measurable hit in range, yet have enormous improvement in handling. They are not rated to last all that long, but they are also inexpensive compared to OEMs. I am willing to trade shorter treadlife for better handling. By the way, the speed rating on these was "Y" (186mph) and it is not considered a high-performance tire! That speaks to the integrity of the tire. I have about 6000 miles on them and they appear to be wearing on par with the OEMs
A cosmetic question. Anyone else notice the stock Michelin sidewalls starting to crack from UV light after the car not being that old ??(mine's about 2.5 years - they have not been out that long)!
I went with Nokian all weather last fall, not minding the range hit, just because I couldn't stand the poor traction of the OEM set. But I'm in Chicago four seasons of weather so I need the safety more than ultimate potential range.
I am also a 40 yr example of nothing bad happening at max cold sidewall rated pressure. Never had the center of any tire wear faster than outsides. I have 49 lbs cold in my new Bolt tires.There was a WIRED article about how quiet the Bridgestones are and therefore such a great match for very quiet electric vehicles. The quiet part turned out to be very much true - the quiet is noticeable and wonderful - I'm now able to conduct a hands-free speakerphone conversation much more easily while at speed along a 3 mile concrete bridge I cross several times daily, and the Bridgestones soak up pavement irregularities, manhole covers and the like with much more aplomb than the OEM tires
In the course of managing my HVAC biz and 150+ daily miles of UberLyft driving, kid shuffling, etc, I'm in the car 8-12 hours per day...quiet is good, and I was willing to eat a 5-10% mileage hit, but not 20%.
Jack V - I have a million+ mile history spanning 3+ decades running car tires at sidewall max; sometimes even 5-10% higher, in pursuit of fuel economy and longevity. That has worked for me - Getting 83k out of the OEMs is, from what I've read, basically unheard of, and that came about in part because I ran them at sidewall max plus 10% for quite awhile during their prime...though during their last 20k miles I let the pressure slowly naturally decay to lower 40s.
Elevated tire pressures do result in harsher ride over rough pavement, but the reduced contact patch area increases efficiency and also helps reduce vulnerability to hydroplaning during heavy rain / roadway water ponding incidents - higher pressure provides more force to drive standing water out from under the tire via the tread grooves.
Overinflation is widely said to cause center of tire tread to prematurely wear relative to edges, but I have never experienced that outcome even with tires operated 10% over max sidewall for 10s of thousands of miles.
All that said, having spent $982 on these tires, I'm stuck with them until they wear out...I just didn't expect tire choice to cause such a hit on efficiency.,,live and learn!
I do wonder if there is an effect wherein all tires yield better efficiency as they wear down - there is less flex in the tread elements as they become progressively shallower, and in that lowered flex less opportunity for friction losses...would an optimized tire replacement strategy be to seek (at presumably much lower cost) used tires already at least half worn?
Not tires for a Bolt but I used that silica compounded Michelins on my Jeep 4X4 and they rotted and cracked badly in 4 years and maybe 10k miles. Didn't sit in sun much either. No help from warranty so no more overpriced Mitcheys for this old guy.A cosmetic question. Anyone else notice the stock Michelin sidewalls starting to crack from UV light after the car not being that old ??(mine's about 2.5 years - they have not been out that long)!
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