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Hey guys. I just picked up a black premiere. I wish the car was a little longer...I'm coming from a Prius.

I was surprised to find that the Premiere does not come with HomeLink. I did a little research and it looks like Chevy ditched Homelink in all of their new cars. I see some after market solutions for the Volt but I wanted to see what other Bolt Owners are doing.

I have multiple homes so Homelink would be so convenient. Thanks!
 

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I also came from a Prius. I love the change. Never used the "garage link" in Prius so not a factor to me. Put the remote that come with opener in the storage by cigarette outlet???
 

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I have never had Homelink. Is that all it does, open your garage door, or are there other features? :confused:
Homelink can also do home automation stuff like turn on lights, activate appliances, and activate/deactivate a security system.

http://www.homelink.com/home/welcome

But people mostly use it to open their garage doors and gates.
 

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I too wish the car had Homelink. I am looking on eBay for some units taken from other cars. I may have to buy one and see where I can place in the car. I was surprised it did not come with the car. Garage door openers work, but if you have different units that use a different system then Homelink is the only thing that will tie them together. At least that is what I believe. I have one garage where Genie is used and one where Sears Craftsman (Liftmaster).
Manny
 

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For a $70 difference you may as well go with the whole mirror, but you'll lose the rear view camera feature and wiring is going to be complicated.
Yes, that's why I think those with Premiers are better off with just the buttons. That way they lose no functionality. If you have an LT, then yeah, go for the mirror.
 

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Can someone post a picture of the center headliner console area? I don't have a Bolt yet but want to be sure there are some suitable mounting options for this prior to purchase. Wish they would have included this, ****, use the 3 buttons that weren't used from the Ampera on the dash... BAH!
 

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*Bringing this back from the dead*

Has anyone thought about taking apart a remote or a homelink module and mount the button on one of the blanks on the center console?

Next to the sport button?

Just need to find a button that would work.
 

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I use one of these on my motorcycle. I have it mounted in a flat panel on the bike cockpit and it looks like an OEM piece. Battery powered, self contained, and easy to install. There isn't a perfect place for it on the Bolt but there are a number of decent locations to mount it.

Search for Homelink GENHLBP1.



 

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I use one of these on my motorcycle. I have it mounted in a flat panel on the bike cockpit and it looks like an OEM piece. Battery powered, self contained, and easy to install. There isn't a perfect place for it on the Bolt but there are a number of decent locations to mount it.

Search for Homelink GENHLBP1.




Thats the one that I was thinking of chopping up and trying to mount it. I dont like the battery part and want to see if I can hard wire to an accessory fuse so that its only on when the car is one. Battery lets you use it even if the car is off.
 

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I have both a garage door and a gate to get into my community. Therefore, I really hate carrying around 2 remotes, or having loose remotes in general. All my cars have homelink in them, and the ones that don't get it installed. I added a Homelink to a 2012 LS Silverado by just buying the kit that goes in an LT, and I added Homelink to a 2008 Pontiac G6 by buying the same part I am adding to the Bolt.

Since I had already put this same unit in the Pontiac, I already knew the basic procedure. The only difference with the Bolt was finding the right power source once I got into the overhead lighting console. Here is what it looks like when I was done:


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Here are some basic instructions. The unit's part # is 60-HMLKV5ALL:

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It comes with 3 different button bezels - gray/black/tan. I used the gray as you can see in the picture above. The part can be found online for $120-$150.

You have to pull down the ceiling console where the interior lights and OnStar buttons are, connect the Homelink to the power source the light uses, cut a small hole in the console bezel and then attach the unit there, and then put it back together.
Here are some details.

Key tools I used are a what I call a clip separator, and a Dremel/Rotary tool to cut the plastic overhead console bezel/plate in order to install the buttons/homelink. I also used a drill to drill a small hole to connect the ground wire to a metal spot as well as typical wire cutters to cut and strip the wiring to connect power.

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The trickest part of this are discussed below:

A) removing the ceiling light console

This is where I use the clip separator. There is a faceplate which you see that can come down fairly easily, but it is also useful to remove the light fixture assembly also. The light fixture assmebly (white plastic peice below) has 4 clips that clip into metal holes in the ceiling of the car. Here is a picture after I removed it.

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To wire to power, I used a mutimeter to find constant, non-switched power. There is a wire harness that plugs into the side of the white light assembly shown above. I found that the white wire with red stripe has constant power, so I connected the power for the homelink to that. Note that this is a Premiere model, but I imagine the LT is the same as far as this wire harness is concerned and the white/red wire supplying power. See below.

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I used a simple splicer to connect the 3 wires. the red wire is the Homelink unit's power connection.

The other wire that you need to connect from the homelink is a ground wire, which I chose to connect to the chassis by drilling a small hole in the console bracket, and then attaching with a metal tapping screw. Also, note in this picture that you can see two of the holes that the white console light assembly clips into, which I used the clip separator tool to disengage from. See below.

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At this point, the Homelink module is connected to power. Now it needs to be attached to the button assembly/bezel. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of what that looks like, but here is what it looks like when I cut the hole in the overhead console plate with the Dremel, and placed the buttons/bezel on to size it.

I didn't do the cleanest grinding job, but it doesn't matter because the button bezel covers all that. You get a template to help cut the right sized opening. One modification I had to make was that the homelink module didn't quite fit correctly using the placement you see below. I recommend attaching the white light assembly to the cover plate I am showing below and THEN deciding where the homelink should be placed. I ended up having to move it down about 3 mm from the location where you see it below once I tried to put it all back together.

27233
 

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Couple more points: I should have finished my list items. I stopped at A). B) wire power and ground. C) cut hole and attach homelink module and buttons to headliner console cover. D) re-assemble.

Note this unit can attach to headliner if you dont want to modify console plate but wiring method would be the same. There is a very long wiring lead. I chose console because it looks more factory. Also if I screwed up cutting I could just get another cover plate. I leased the car so I may put un-modified ceiling console in and keep homelink when I turn in car. At least it's an option. Cant do that if you cut headliner.
 

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Just used some velcro with my Chamberlain remote - fits nicely out of site under the middle of the center console. Reach under to use. I was initially upset about no homelink as well but after adding this mod - it is a non-issue for me.
 

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I did the same thing with my Bolt as with all of my other vehicles (including a motorcycle): Tap into the headlight "brights" circuit to drive a relay. Run the relay contacts to a garage door opener remote push-button contacts. Power the garage-door opener remote from an ignition-switched fuse location using an add-a-fuse device and a resistor voltage divider for the correct remote battery voltage. The remote is attached to the top of the under-hood fuse box using Velcro. You can also just use the remote's internal battery, if you don't mind changing it occasionally, and don't need the added security of it only working with the vehicle ignition "on".

Pull into the driveway, flash the brights, and the garage door opens. I like simple...
 
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