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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Also, seems a bad idea to keep cables coiled/overlapped when in use...

And, also seems a good idea to have a 50 amp outlet, buy a 32 amp EVSE, run it at 16 amps.
 

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Running the OEM EVSE at 12A, will running it on 240v generate more heat?
In terms of battery heating, or in terms of the EVSE and cord heating?

Either way, it is current that determines heating, not voltage. 12A flow on 120 creates the same heating as 240V at 12A, even though it's delivering twice the power.

This is the reason why electricity is sent at 10s of thousands of volts long distances, and only step down to 120/240v at the street just before running to your house.
 

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previous post is right. Basically, no. It doesn鈥檛. Power dissipated in the unit is minimal to begin with. Doubling it is doubling a small number and it doesn鈥檛 really double. Complicated to explain. The car gets twice the power because of twice the voltage, not twice the current.
 

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In terms of battery heating, or in terms of the EVSE and cord heating?

Either way, it is current that determines heating, not voltage. 12A flow on 120 creates the same heating as 240V at 12A, even though it's delivering twice the power.

This is the reason why electricity is sent at 10s of thousands of volts long distances, and only step down to 120/240v at the street just before running to your house.
Yup.. "Eye-squared-are" losses.
 

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And this thread gives a good feel to beginners of why L2 is more efficient. A stock EVSE at 240V delivers twice the energy of the stock EVSE at 120V with the same amount of waste energy dissipated as heat. So, if you have the same amount of wasted energy per hour, but it takes half the amount of time to charge then over all you don't have as much wasted energy.

Keith
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My neighbor's Model S can charge at as low as 5A and as high as 40A. That is so much better, as I am interested in making my instantaneous energy use more utility friendly (lower draw over a longer period).
 

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My neighbor's Model S can charge at as low as 5A and as high as 40A. That is so much better, as I am interested in making my instantaneous energy use more utility friendly (lower draw over a longer period).
When I wired my garage for 125 Amps, it's because I (at the time) had the brochure for the car, which recommended a 60A circuit. I was thinking then, if I'm going to pull wire 40 feet to the garage, I'd pull the right wire to have 2 EVSE's (eventually) so I would never need to pull more wire later. Little did I know at the time, what a pain it was to pull wire of the required gauge through 1 1/4" conduit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I thought the Model S could charge at 11.5kW (48 Amps). Or is he wired for a max of 40A???
Looks like S goes only up to 40A. It's Model 3 that goes to 48A. Either way, his breaker is only 50A, so 40A would be the safe max.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When I wired my garage for 125 Amps, it's because I (at the time) had the brochure for the car, which recommended a 60A circuit. I was thinking then, if I'm going to pull wire 40 feet to the garage, I'd pull the right wire to have 2 EVSE's (eventually) so I would never need to pull more wire later. Little did I know at the time, what a pain it was to pull wire of the required gauge through 1 1/4" conduit.
Personally, I am sticking with the OEM EVSE at 12A. If that dies and I have to get an after market, I may just get a 16A unit for $150 instead of a 32A unit for $300.
My logic: Lower A = less heat = safer. With my current set up, I have a #6 wire capable of 50A. I connect the OEM EVSE running at 12A. The electrical wiring in the walls should generate very little heat. I do notice that the OEM EVSE cable to the car gets slightly warm. That's understandable since the EVSE cable is running at its rated amp.
 

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Looks like S goes only up to 40A. It's Model 3 that goes to 48A. Either way, his breaker is only 50A, so 40A would be the safe max.

Well, ummmm ...... The SX Mobile Charger you are quoting in your post is in itself only a 40A charger so of course you aren't going to charge the car over that. Try this link:

Charge rates - Click gently

Focus on this part:

27520
 

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Personally, I am sticking with the OEM EVSE at 12A. If that dies and I have to get an after market, I may just get a 16A unit for $150 instead of a 32A unit for $300.
My logic: Lower A = less heat = safer. With my current set up, I have a #6 wire capable of 50A. I connect the OEM EVSE running at 12A. The electrical wiring in the walls should generate very little heat. I do notice that the OEM EVSE cable to the car gets slightly warm. That's understandable since the EVSE cable is running at its rated amp.
I agree with your logic on this and would do the same. I started my wiring project that I have today back when I had a Tesla on order. So, I was wiring for a car that according to my sales brochure needed 60A. Well, not needed but could use. If I knew at that time I would end up with a Bolt, I'd be doing it exactly how you are doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, ummmm ...... The SX Mobile Charger you are quoting in your post is in itself only a 40A charger so of course you aren't going to charge the car over that. Try this link:

Charge rates - Click gently

Focus on this part:

View attachment 27520
Oh, ok, good to know. I thought the screen only shows max of 40A, maybe it was 48A. Either way, I recommended to him to run it at lower A over longer period to be more cooperative/friendly with the utility in charging the car. No point to rush charging at 32A for an hour then not charging for the next 7 hours.
 
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