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When I've charged to 100% on my '22 EV (only if I'm going a long distance - not that often), I still drive in one pedal mode and the brake controller applies the friction brakes until the charge level gets low enough for regen braking to work. It feels a little different when it does this, but it still slows the car down- just not as quickly.
 

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If & when I can afford a Chevy Bolt, I’m also thinking about not using one pedal driving.
FWIW, this comment here describes why I chose not to use OPD:

 

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If & when I can afford a Chevy Bolt, I’m also thinking about not using one pedal driving.
We didn't, at first -- I was concerned that my reflexes would make it unsafe. Tried it on backroads, and never went back. My husband had the same experience. It seemed to me, thinking about it, that it would be hard to adapt to, but in actual fact, for us (we're not too physically adept) it was immediately intuitive. Also, it's never been twitchy for us.
 

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If & when I can afford a Chevy Bolt, I’m also thinking about not using one pedal driving.
Since there is no efficiency gain with 1Pedal, it's just something new to get used to.
It's just a personal preference.

But then if you charge to 100%, you have to unlearn this and go back to Normal Driving.
I like the advantage of taking my foot off the Go Pedal and relaxing and getting 'Coast'.
You don't get a carefree coast with 1Pedal.

Also,
Why are people charging to 100% when it's not needed?
 
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Dammit, no one has replied to my seat belt and other weird thing msg. 😁
Has everyone here always put their seat belt on, even for the shortest movement of car? Or has anyone else duplicated the "one-pedal doesn't totally not stop car" when seatbelt off, door cracked, or some other weird thing?
 

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2022 Bolt EUV (06/21) LT w/ Driver Confidence Package. Almost trouble free.
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Dammit, no one has replied to my seat belt and other weird thing msg. 😁
Has everyone here always put their seat belt on, even for the shortest movement of car? Or has anyone else duplicated the "one-pedal doesn't totally not stop car" when seatbelt off, door cracked, or some other weird thing?
Sorry, I never drive anywhere without buckling the seat belt. And I grew up in the pre-seat belt era. Go figure. 🙄
 

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Since there is no efficiency gain with 1Pedal, it's just something new to get used to.
It's just a personal preference.

But then if you charge to 100%, you have to unlearn this and go back to Normal Driving.
I like the advantage of taking my foot off the Go Pedal and relaxing and getting 'Coast'.
You don't get a carefree coast with 1Pedal.

Also,
Why are people charging to 100% when it's not needed?
Range worry.
 

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I don’t think they are trying to get 300,000 miles out of the battery pack.
Why would fully charging your battery impact your ability to get 300,000 miles out of the battery pack? Please explain with data or science.

If your worried about battery life, dont ever do a DC fast charge. Lv1 or Lv2 to 100% should not impact battery life.
 

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Why would fully charging your battery impact your ability to get 300,000 miles out of the battery pack? Please explain with data or science.

If your worried about battery life, dont ever do a DC fast charge. Lv1 or Lv2 to 100% should not impact battery life.
It is a generally accepted principle that charging to 100% increases rate of (Li) batt degradation (as does running it down to very low s.o.c). Ppl will have a point that is no longer acceptable to them.. so, increasing probability that they replace pack before any particular mileage.
It's easily google-able if you want data and science. But the idea is so widespread that I have never looked for a peer-reviewed battery study. If it turns out to all be b.s, I'm not out anything.
And yes, you are correct that dcfc does the same, so better to not use dcfc or fill batt to top, except when you actually need to.
 

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It is a generally accepted principle that charging to 100% increases rate of (Li) batt degradation (as does running it down to very low s.o.c). Ppl will have a point that is no longer acceptable to them.. so, increasing probability that they replace pack before any particular mileage.
It's easily google-able if you want data and science. But the idea is so widespread that I have never looked for a peer-reviewed battery study. If it turns out to all be b.s, I'm not out anything.
And yes, you are correct that dcfc does the same, so better to not use dcfc or fill batt to top, except when you actually need to.
Sorry generally accepted principle (GAP), simply means, listening to people who probably don't really know what they are talking about.

For starters do you think you get full usage of your EV battery from day? or do you think OEM's calibrate usable battery capacity, to protect the life of the battery, and allow with time to open up that calibration in the EV, such that as the battery ages, you don't see a drop in range as the battery opens up more of the battery capacity? Answer is in here


Than we can get to which type of Li battery are your GAP's derived from, as different mixes of battery chemistry act differently and respond to factors differently.

I can't speak to what chemistry GM is using, or other things they maybe doing. I can tell you GM warranty's their battery for 8 yrs, 100,000 miles and thats not to battery failure that's to 60% capacity. (of course California requires 10yrs 150,000 miles and I doubt GM or any oem is making different batteries based on point of sale but maybe)

Here is a story about a tesla that looks to have gotten over 700,000 miles on its replacement battery. Of course the drive units failed well before that.


Anyhow, point is use only a part of your battery if you want, but you might be doing as much damage by not filling it up as if you did fill it up depending on battery chemistry and manufacturers settings. Oh and GAP will also tell you with Li-ion batteries its not good to short cycle (not running to near empty for charging again) so if you are following GAP I guess you run down to 20 or 30% than charge to 80%.. which would mean you are only using 50% of your battery.. and its very possible the OEM is already only showing you the middle 50% so you might only be using 25% of that battery. I do know the original VOLT full was only 80% of the battery and empty was in that 20 - 30% range.

Here is an article about a taxi service using Tesla's many with high miles, one hit 400,000 miles when the article was written. It has had 2 batteries replaced, not from loss of capacity first one was down ~6% at just shy of 200,000 miles when the pack went bad (replaced underwarrenty) and they drain them near empty and then DC fast charge them, which caused other issues in the battery.


,
 

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Sorry generally accepted principle (GAP), simply means, listening to people who probably don't really know what they are talking about.
Well aware of what ot means.. I specifically said I'd never looked for an actual study. And also that I don't care, since I'm not out anything. Round trip for work is ~50km, so if there's even a chance it increases degradation, why do it? You'll note I also said I wouldn't do it "except when you actually need", not never.

For starters do you think you get full usage of your EV battery from day? or do you think OEM's calibrate usable battery capacity, to protect the life of the battery, and allow with time to open up that calibration in the EV, such that as the battery ages, you don't see a drop in range as the battery opens up more of the battery capacity?
.. and its very possible the OEM is already only showing you the middle 50%..
Obviously there's a reserve in some (or possibly all) evs, but i suspect the 50% you mention is just silly. In a market where range sells, I'd find it highly unlikely that a manufacturer would limit the range they're able to advertise to such an extent. Once again though, not nearly interested enough to look into it, as my car @ hilltop is more range than I need. But good for you for digging up all those links, maybe someone will use them to confidently charge to full.
 
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