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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm about a month in on my Bolt now and loving it. I really enjoy L except I'm paranoid that I'll be rear-ended when stopped. So, I'll often press the brake to illuminate the brake lights, especially if I'm stopped alone and a car behind me then approaches with speed. I feel especially vulnerable if it's lower light conditions before dark, the auto headlights haven't come on yet, and also because my Bolt is black. I do think the brake lights should be illuminated when the car is not moving in L and I can't see any disadvantage to that feature being added (would be sweet to see it in an OTA update). That's beside the point though...

So what's your best advice on what to do if you are in L and you need to slow down more quickly than the the one pedal regen provides? Seems there are two choices: 1) pull the regen paddle to slow down even quicker, or 2) move my foot and press the brake pedal. I hesitate to "waste time" with option 1 if the paddle regen still isn't sufficient thereby causing panic, but option 2 seems to basically induce a panic stop because now I'm combining max L regen with potential friction brake addition too. So basically how do you best judge when to use L regen, paddle addition, and/or brake pedal?

Note, this is more theoretical than anything I've experienced regularly. I enjoy the art of planning stopping distances perfectly in L so that I have enough regen to illuminate the brake lights and also stop exactly where I want to.
 

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exactly the sequence that I employ. Use 'L' then add regen paddle if 'L' isn't enough. Then add brake if that doesn't work. So I'll have all three.

Only time that didn't work was when my steel toe work boots actually snagged a piece of the accelerator as I was pushing the brake. Pushing the brake really really hard did overcome the accelerator as all cars should. And luckily I noticed what was happening in a few moments and got my boot moved off the accelerator. There was that moment of panic wondering why the car wasn't wanting to stop. All that torque can have some disadvantage.

Note that the Bolt will automatically apply brake lights while deaccelerating. But as you note, they don't stay illuminated when at a complete stop. Like you, I apply the brake to turn my brake lights on until I'm satisfied everyone behind me is going to stop.
 

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Obviously a quick stop requires the brake pedal, but for somewhat slower stopping that needs more than “L” provides use the paddle and cover the brake pedal just in case.

I find the paddle a little harder to modulate than the accelerator pedal, probably because I don’t use the paddle very often, and my brain isn’t used to trying to stop a vehicle with my left hand. Old dog, new tricks.
 

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I find the paddle a little harder to modulate than the accelerator pedal, probably because I don’t use the paddle very often, and my brain isn’t used to trying to stop a vehicle with my left hand. Old dog, new tricks.
The way to modulate the paddle is with the accelerator pedal.

Thinking of the paddle as switching the car from L to LL for as long as you hold it.
 

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Brake lights will come on when your slowing down using regen but will not remain on once the vehicle is stopped. Once the vehicle has come to a stop I depress the brake pedal to light up the brake lights and hold the vehicle in the stopped position.

As far as stopping I modulate the go pedal in L mode. Then if I need more I press on the paddle. Finally if that is not enough then I will press on the brake to slow the vehicle as quickly as possible.

Glad your enjoying your new Bolt. Its a wonderful car for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brake lights will come on when your slowing down using regen but will not remain on once the vehicle is stopped. Once the vehicle has come to a stop I depress the brake pedal to light up the brake lights and hold the vehicle in the stopped position.

As far as stopping I modulate the go pedal in L mode. Then if I need more I press on the paddle. Finally if that is not enough then I will press on the brake to slow the vehicle as quickly as possible.

Glad your enjoying your new Bolt. Its a wonderful car for sure.
Thanks! I forgot to mention that I was aware that the brake lights illuminate past a certain threshold of decel g's, and it's been fun testing that out. It sounds like many of you are doing what I do, which is moving your foot to the brake pedal when stopped more to activate the brake lights instead of apply braking force. Kinda ruins some of the Joy of L to me. I can't figure out a reason why it wouldn't be optimal for the car to display brake lights when stopped in L instead of the current approach.
 

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I can't figure out a reason why it wouldn't be optimal for the car to display brake lights when stopped in L instead of the current approach.
I like the ability to flash the brake lights with the brake pedal to get someone's attention. Programming them to stay on automatically at a stop would remove that ability. Would be nice if it was a user setting though. Then each driver can set their preferred choice.
 

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Don't want to hijack, but this is sort of related. I leave it in L all the time. When using cruise control and trying to disengage the cruise (but not clear it so I can resume later) if I touch the brake it seems to about throw you into the windshield with the deceleration of L and braking combined. How do people handle that one?
 

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Just note that it takes lots of practice to use the regen paddle effectively.

When in L mode, lifting the accelerator slows the car gradually and smoothly. The paddle doesn't work that way. It's all or nothing. So one thing you can try is to just tap it like you are pumping the brake.

Just practice and it will eventually become second nature.
 

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This is great advice! I've never tried to modulate the throttle pedal with the steering wheel paddle engaged.
I really wish the salespeople in general were more well-versed on the Bolt. My salesperson was telling me to "pump" the paddle quickly to use regen braking when in D. It wasn't until I read this forum (and double checked in the manual) that I learned you can and should modulate the paddle with the accelerator in D mode. It really is like L mode "on demand".
 
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Don't want to hijack, but this is sort of related. I leave it in L all the time. When using cruise control and trying to disengage the cruise (but not clear it so I can resume later) if I touch the brake it seems to about throw you into the windshield with the deceleration of L and braking combined. How do people handle that one?
The trick is to add a little accelerator pedal as you tap the regen on demand paddle. quickly pulling/releasing the paddle will disengage cruise control - using the accelerator pedal to reduce the aggressive regen slowdown of L mode will make for a smooth experience. It does take a little practice. And for some, they toggle to D and then can use the less aggressive regen to gradually slow on a ramp - toggle back into L when ready/desired.
 

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Just note that it takes lots of practice to use the regen paddle effectively.

When in L mode, lifting the accelerator slows the car gradually and smoothly. The paddle doesn't work that way. It's all or nothing. So one thing you can try is to just tap it like you are pumping the brake.

Just practice and it will eventually become second nature.
No, the paddle is not “all or nothing” in the way you think, any more than putting the car into from D into L mode puts you in an “all or nothing” situation.

Let me repeat, the way to modulate the paddle is with the accelerator pedal.

If you're in D, pushing the paddle is like putting you into L (actually “L+”, since the regen is slightly stronger than you'd get in L).

If you're in L, pushing the paddle is like putting you into a stronger L mode (“L++” if you like).

You could actually hold the paddle down continuously for your whole journey and drive the car normally. It will feel like it's in stronger-L mode. (It would however be both awkward and annoying to do so.)

In other words, the way the accelerator pedal behaves (including, but not limited to, taking your foot completely off the pedal), in order of weakest to strongest regen curve:

  • N — neutral, motor remains connected to wheels, but no regen at all and no power. Accelerator pedal does nothing. Illegal to drive in neutral in many states, and generally considered unwise. (In neutral, the oil pump for the motor does not run.)
  • D — Weakest regen, designed to simulate a typical 1990s automatic when easing off on the throttle.
  • L — Moderate regen, easing off on the throttle noticeably slows the car, allowing a gentle braking effect that can slow the car to a stop over a relatively long distance.
  • D + Holding paddle — Significant regen. Like L mode, but easing off on the throttle applies a slightly stronger braking effect.
  • L + Holding paddle — Strong regen. Like the previous mode, but easing off on the throttle applies a slightly stronger braking effect.

To add more complexity, once your foot is fully off the accelerator, you can add yet more regen by gently pushing the brake pedal. The brake pedal begins by applying additional regen. As you push it further, it eventually engages the friction brakes.

To add yet more complexity, sport mode changes throttle response to be more aggressive in non-regen situations.
 

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Don't want to hijack, but this is sort of related. I leave it in L all the time. When using cruise control and trying to disengage the cruise (but not clear it so I can resume later) if I touch the brake it seems to about throw you into the windshield with the deceleration of L and braking combined. How do people handle that one?
You need to press the accelerator down before disengaging the cruise control. I usually use the cruise control off button to disengage. Some people actually use the regen paddle to disengage the cruise control. I try to press the accelerator down until I actually feel the car slightly accelerate before disengaging. So you have to plan ahead. Some just put the car in 'D' if using the cruise control.
 

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No, the paddle is not “all or nothing” in the way you think, any more than putting the car into from D into L mode puts you in an “all or nothing” situation.

Let me repeat, the way to modulate the paddle is with the accelerator pedal.

If you're in D, pushing the paddle is like putting you into L (actually “L+”, since the regen is slightly stronger than you'd get in L).

If you're in L, pushing the paddle is like putting you into a stronger L mode (“L++” if you like).

You could actually hold the paddle down continuously for your whole journey and drive the car normally. It will feel like it's in stronger-L mode. (It would however be both awkward and annoying to do so.)

In other words, the way the accelerator pedal behaves (including, but not limited to, taking your foot completely off the pedal), in order of weakest to strongest regen curve:

  • N — neutral, motor remains connected to wheels, but no regen at all and no power. Accelerator pedal does nothing. Illegal to drive in neutral in many states, and generally considered unwise. (In neutral, the oil pump for the motor does not run.)
  • D — Weakest regen, designed to simulate a typical 1990s automatic when easing off on the throttle.
  • L — Moderate regen, easing off on the throttle noticeably slows the car, allowing a gentle braking effect that can slow the car to a stop over a relatively long distance.
  • D + Holding paddle — Significant regen. Like L mode, but easing off on the throttle applies a slightly stronger braking effect.
  • L + Holding paddle — Strong regen. Like the previous mode, but easing off on the throttle applies a slightly stronger braking effect.

To add more complexity, once your foot is fully off the accelerator, you can add yet more regen by gently pushing the brake pedal. The brake pedal begins by applying additional regen. As you push it further, it eventually engages the friction brakes.

To add yet more complexity, sport mode changes throttle response to be more aggressive in non-regen situations.
The paddle is indeed all or nothing. It is just a switch. It's on or it's off.


The accelerator in L mode is like a dimmer. The paddle is not.


Yes, using them together creates a "stronger" dimmer. So I get your point.


But my point was that it just takes practice to learn to use it effectively. It's not intuitive like L mode alone.
 

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The paddle is indeed all or nothing. It is just a switch. It's on or it's off.

The accelerator in L mode is like a dimmer. The paddle is not.

Yes, using them together creates a "stronger" dimmer. So I get your point.

But my point was that it just takes practice to learn to use it effectively. It's not intuitive like L mode alone
In other words, the hand-operated paddle is much more like the hand-operated gear selector than the foot-operated pedals.

You could equally well use the gear selector like the paddle, shifting to L to slow and out of L to coast. You could then say the gear selector is like a toggle switch and takes practice to learn.

(And some drivers treat the accelerator pedal as a switch too. If their foot is on it, they're pressing aggressively and gaining speed, or their foot is off it completely. Those drivers complain that the car lurches a lot in L. They too need some practice to learn… how to drive.)
 

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Don't want to hijack, but this is sort of related. I leave it in L all the time. When using cruise control and trying to disengage the cruise (but not clear it so I can resume later) if I touch the brake it seems to about throw you into the windshield with the deceleration of L and braking combined. How do people handle that one?
I found when driving in L that tapping the brake to disengage the cruise control, like I would in an ICE auto, causes too great of a deceleration. I have learned to keep my foot on the accelerator and tap the regen lever to disengage the cruise control. Doing this provides an effect similar to tapping the brake in in ICE auto. Trying to disengage the cruise control with the cancel button is a little more difficult due to its small size. It is much easier to feel the regen lever. I hope this helps.
 

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When in L mode, lifting the accelerator slows the car gradually and smoothly. The paddle doesn't work that way. It's all or nothing.
No, it's not. When you hold the paddle down you can modulate the amount of regen with the accelerator pedal just the same way that you can in "L" mode without it being held down.


In other words, the hand-operated paddle is much more like the hand-operated gear selector than the foot-operated pedals.
Yes, your description of the paddle being like shifting into "LL" mode is very apt. And you've got it exactly right in terms of pressing the accelerator before using the paddle to disengage cruise.
 

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I found when driving in L that tapping the brake to disengage the cruise control, like I would in an ICE auto, causes too great of a deceleration. I have learned to keep my foot on the accelerator and tap the regen lever to disengage the cruise control. Doing this provides an effect similar to tapping the brake in in ICE auto. Trying to disengage the cruise control with the cancel button is a little more difficult due to its small size. It is much easier to feel the regen lever. I hope this helps.
FWIW, in an ICE auto tapping the brake to disengage cruise control has the side effect of briefly illuminating your brake lights. On the freeway in dense traffic, that can be discourteous to other drivers, because the person behind you may react to seeing your brake lights come on by braking themselves, but, because your brake lights coming on was unexpected for them, they brake harder than you did. The person behind them brakes even harder, and soon traffic is coming to a stop (a.k.a. traffic waves).

Obviously, it doesn't happen every single time you disengage cruise control by tapping the brakes, but if you do it on a regular basis sometimes you'll be leaving traffic jams behind you.

In general, don't brake on the freeway if you don't have to.
 

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Don't want to hijack, but this is sort of related. I leave it in L all the time. When using cruise control and trying to disengage the cruise (but not clear it so I can resume later) if I touch the brake it seems to about throw you into the windshield with the deceleration of L and braking combined. How do people handle that one?
FWIW, my approach, which violates your first condition, is switch to D, then tap the paddle to disengage cruise. Drive in D or switch back to L depending on why I needed to be back in control of speed.
 
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