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1. Pay attention on how he mounts this outlet:
2. Use solid copper ferrule's on all connections and use a quality crimper
3. Use some dielectric grease in the plug side of the outlet, this will prevent arcing and thus heat.

I have the SHELL Power cable and it will pull 30 amps all night and wont be hotter than body temp, breaker is warm but within spec.

OR

Use solid copper ferrule's on all connections and use a quality crimper
 

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14-50 outlets vary in quality/durability. This video compares 5 different brands of 14-50 outlets. I purchased a cheap Leviton unit from a big box store. Then I did some research and found the one Tesla recommends (Hubbell) is the preferred outlet mentioned in this video. I returned my Leviton and purchased the Hubbell.

Unfortunately the Hubbell has more than doubled in price since this video was made 2 years ago. It was $68 in the video. I paid $80 for mine about a year ago. Now it's on Amazon for $100+. Check the reviews on Amazon for pictures and more info.

If you get the Hubbell outlet, you will need a specific face plate for it as a standard 14-50 plate won't fit (it's too small).
That’s the only answer you need Leviton outlets are junk not made for long term EV use.
 

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I just went out in our garage to check system temps while our Bolt was charging. It had been at it for several hours. The garage alcohol thermometer said just over 82 F. Torque Pro showed 82.4 F, My VOM thermistor showed 82 F. The garage main breaker was 109 F on both breaker legs. The charge circuit breaker was at 108 F on both legs. The Leviton 14-50 socket read 96 F on either side nearest the hot contacts. The Gen II electronics module was 101 F at its hottest point below the LEDs. The Tesla plug, where it goes into the JDapter, was 95 F on either side. The J1772 was 96 F on either side, the Bolt socket was 103 F on one side, and 105 F on the other. Torque Pro showed the charge socket as 109.4 F, wherever it is measuring.


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That’s the only answer you need Leviton outlets are junk not made for long term EV use.
Sorta, I actually think its voltage. My house/Neighborhood runs hot and I normally see 250-252 the max ever recorded was 256. Even when the house is loaded down it will be always be mid to high 240's.

On the flip side if you're closer to 220 normal and sub 200 loaded down you will be pumping much more amperage through that connection. My car will not even pull a full 32a at home it just pulls 30a, at work where the voltage is 235-240 it will pull the extra 2amps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Last night I checked the hot wires with the IR thermometer and an ammeter. No heating found, and the current was 30 amps. So at this point I'm guessing that it's an unlucky coincidence of bad plug wire-blade connections on 2 different EVSE's. To confirm, I'm going to pull the plug out half way and check the blade temperatures with the IR thermometer, unless y'all think that would be dangerous.
 

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Last night I checked the hot wires with the IR thermometer and an ammeter. No heating found, and the current was 30 amps. So at this point I'm guessing that it's an unlucky coincidence of bad plug wire-blade connections on 2 different EVSE's. To confirm, I'm going to pull the plug out half way and check the blade temperatures with the IR thermometer, unless y'all think that would be dangerous.
I would stop the charging and flip the breaker before trying that. Hopefully, the temperature shouldn't change too much in that process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Last night I left the plug blades out half way so I could check their temperature. One of the hot blades was 50 degrees hotter than the other. Both hot receptacle screw terminals were cool, so I think this proves that a plug blade-wire connection is bad. So now I'd like to replace the plug. Is it possible to do this and preserve the EVSE's IP66 rating?
 

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Last night I left the plug blades out half way so I could check their temperature. One of the hot blades was 50 degrees hotter than the other. Both hot receptacle screw terminals were cool, so I think this proves that a plug blade-wire connection is bad. So now I'd like to replace the plug. Is it possible to do this and preserve the EVSE's IP66 rating?
Probably. Or is it the wiper on that side is worn and not making solid contact?
 
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