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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, God came down for me and I now have access to a 240vac outlet at home. It's a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. 120vac was the only option before. This of course begs the question of where do you find an adapter to convert the male 120v NEMA 5-15 on the OEM EVSE to a male NEMA 14-50? Of course I turned to these page first, and found some ripe old threads, as well as some '21 and '22 threads on this topic. Very informative.

After scanning current prices for an adapter (some 1-step adapters, and some 2-step adapters) I decided to build my own. The cheapest adapter I ran into was $32, which is not bad, but the spare outlets are just begging for some passerby to plug in a 120v device. Other single outlet adapters I found are over $50, such as the ACWorks product found at Home Depot and elsewhere.

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The solution I ordered is a 14-50 plug and a 1ft extension cord. I will cut off the male end off the extension cord and attach the 14-50 plug. The extension cord is 12 gauge, which is more than adequate. Of the threads I pursued it is rarely mentioned that wire size is determined by current, not voltage. Current (amps) is the same with the stock EVSE at both 120v and 240v, so no need for a fatter wire (unless you are building a very long cord, in which case you consult a voltage drop chart and use a lower gauge (larger diameter) wire based on the length of the cord.

I found this thread to be very useful. It had a post about current and wire size, as well as a reference to the jacket rating of the cord in volts. I am somewhat ignorant in this area, although I have taken note of the voltage spec on other cables. If Mr. @Packard V8 is correct, it appears one must use 600v rated cable for this application? I cannot read the spec on the extension cord I ordered, so we will see.

This will be an $18 solution if all goes well.


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Leave off the neutral prong, it has no connection in making an adapter and will allow your plug to be used with both 50 and 30 amp outlets. Also, mark the female end 240 VAC.
Exactly what I was going to say. :) That’s one of the kind that are often sold with two different neutral prongs for you to assemble however you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Yeah, the neutral prong is going away.

please don't use a lighted cord on 240 volts. don't ask me how I know.
Now see, that is why I didn't place the order yet. Wanted to see what the initial comments were. I was eyeing the light on the cord. Is it the old style (I want to say neon but that's wrong), that maybe could withstand the higher voltage? Or is it an LED that may not take the volts. I think I'll find another cord.
 

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that maybe could withstand the higher voltage? Or is it an LED that may not take the volts.
No way to tell really what it can take. I managed to trip my 240 volt 40 amp breaker when my lighted 120V outlet smoked after a couple of weeks of being plugged in. I had know idea that it was lighted when I bought it. Was really annoyed when I found out it was lighted after I installed it. I was like, hey it appears to be working. Didn't feel warm, but it's a small light compared to its encasement. After it blew, I still used the outlet. There wasn't anything left of that little light to draw a current. I've replaced it now that I've got two EVs and had to change my setup.
 

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Locally we have several Habitat for Humanity ReStores. They sell donated building materials, tools, and furniture. In many cases they get bulk donations of new in the box items. I like to shop there because not only are the prices way better, but it helps fund their projects. Virtually every charging adapter you could think of could easily be made from what they have on the shelf.
 

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Yeah, the neutral prong is going away.


Now see, that is why I didn't place the order yet. Wanted to see what the initial comments were. I was eyeing the light on the cord. Is it the old style (I want to say neon but that's wrong), that maybe could withstand the higher voltage? Or is it an LED that may not take the volts. I think I'll find another cord.
I recently rebuilt a 120v to 100v step-down transformer that was severely damaged in the mail. One of the parts that needed replacing was a 250v neon light. None of the voltages were even close but they still made it 220/240v-tolerant. Not sure if modern drop cords do the same.
 

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For me it begs the question of why not buy a proper UL listed EVSE for that outlet?
He has a listed EVSE. What he needs to do with it is no different than using something like this for your notebook computer:

Besides, the answer to your question is right in the title. OP wants/needs a “poor man’s” solution… as do I and many others. I know you mean well but that’s almost like asking why don’t you throw money at it needlessly? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
So let me get this correct, you are trying to convert your EVSE from 120 volts to 240?
Not exactly. The OEM EVSE is already capable of being plugged into a 240v outlet, so it's not a conversion. All that is being done is to adapt the existing 120v plug on the EVSE to allow it to plug in to a 240v outlet. There have been many many threads on this over the years and many members are using their EVSE in this way without issue.

And I don't mean to be picky about using the term "adapter" instead of "converter". It's just that the devices to change outlet types are called adapters, and the term "converter" has a very specific meaning in electricity and electronics, which this application is not covered under the definition. ;>

Even though it is double the voltage, it is still the same amount of amps (12A), so you can charge the car about twice as fast. And since the current is the same, the power cord and internal wiring are sized properly. It is when current is increased that wire size becomes a factor. And the factory EVSE is not designed for current higher than 12 amps.
 

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Of the threads I pursued it is rarely mentioned that wire size is determined by current, not voltage. Current (amps) is the same with the stock EVSE at both 120v and 240v, so no need for a fatter wire (unless you are building a very long cord, in which case you consult a voltage drop chart and use a lower gauge (larger diameter) wire based on the length of the cord.
It is absolutely true that wire gauge is all about current. However, insulation and shock prevention is all about voltage. Probably everything you’d be looking at is going to be good with either 120V or 240V, but you’re probably cutting down your safety margin.

And then, as folks have mentioned, there whether the cable contains any load elements like an indicator lamp or surge suppressor. These things likely won’t be happy with 240V if they’re specifically designed for 120V.

Note W = V^2 R, so for a given resistance, doubling the voltage causes it to dissipate four times as much power. And this is why a little lightbulb (or anything else) overheats and burns out if you double the voltage.
 
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