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2003 Monte Carlo/2012 Mazda3/2017 Cruze RS Hatch-sold/2018 GMC Terrain
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While we can't know this happened to the reddit author, what if in the process of melting the wire insulation inside of the power cord or EVSE cord melted just enough to short with some resistance initially before a so-called dead short happened?

One of the reddit comments claims (I haven't created an account yet to look myself) some of the UL tests considers draping cheesecloth on the EVSE electronics to create short circuit conditions. If the cheesecloth catches fire, the test fails. The tests define parameters such as the breaker amperage. I imagine the cheesecloth would more often catch fire if the device was used on higher amperage breakers than it was designed for. If the Bolt's EVSE is the same as some other 30A EVSE, using it on a 50A breaker probably exceeds the testing parameters of its UL certification. I only mention this because ClipperCreek's reputation and UL certification have been leveraged in favor of the Bolt's EVSE on 240V circuits. It seems like it's perfectly safe on 240V using lower amperage circuits.

You can read this comment for yourself here. Let me know what you think.
I can agree with the Reddit post, where are some circumstances where you size the breaker not only for the wire size but also what the circuit serves. This is typically in motor loads but it can also be for some other applications. I do agree that using a 15-20 amp breaker would be a safer route, but I really did not want to express that on here because I do not condone to doing any of this….improperly. UL certs probably take a lot of things into consideration, which is why I object to anyone doing this hack. There are a lot of variables that come into play, some that I don’t even understand.
 

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Historically, underwriters consider 3 years.

Company records tend to purge over time. The 3 year practice may come from DMV records for auto insurance, which were typically 3 years for tix and accidents, 7 for DUI and other "major" infractions. Auto insurance kind of set the standard for regulators to expect similar claims history for legitimizing company actions. While it may now be more acceptable to regulators to consider a longer period (I was an underwriter for 16 years, but changed careers in 1999), it is probably only a consideration if there is a lot of claims history for all lines of insurance they write for the customer, or if background reports (CLUE reports What Is a C.L.U.E Report and Its Impact on Your Insurance) show a propensity to file claims.

Also, if there are other risk factors such as poor upkeep, adjusters will note that on claims.

The practice of underwriting is one of balancing a lot of factors, and judgement plays a huge role. Claims are both good and bad in the insurers mind. Good because the expectation of claims justifies rates, bad because so many people mistakenly view insurance as an entitlement and file claims often instead of carefully maintaining property or driving. I can't tell you how many times I have heard the argument about paying more premiums than collected in claims with the aura of expecting it to balance. The flip to that is if an insurer has to pay hundreds of thousands, or millions on your behalf, should they be entitled to recover that? Of course not.

It’s nice to hear this from your point of view. It does seem like people view insurance as the fix for things instead of actually fixing the problem before it goes bad. I have always looked at insurance as a blanket, instead of the saving grace for anything. As a result, my insurance score is very good and my premiums reflect that….I wish others looked at insurance like that.
 

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I can agree with the Reddit post, where are some circumstances where you size the breaker not only for the wire size but also what the circuit serves. This is typically in motor loads but it can also be for some other applications. I do agree that using a 15-20 amp breaker would be a safer route, but I really did not want to express that on here because I do not condone to doing any of this….improperly. UL certs probably take a lot of things into consideration, which is why I object to anyone doing this hack. There are a lot of variables that come into play, some that I don’t even understand.
OK, I understand where you're coming from. I didn't realize you were exercising restraint.
 

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2017 Bolt EV Premier
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I imagine the cheesecloth would more often catch fire if the device was used on higher amperage breakers than it was designed for.
Your imagination doesn't necessarily affect what happens in the real world.
 

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2023 Chevy Bolt EUV, 2013 Nissan LEAF
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Okay this may be way out of the purview of this discussion but here goes. I just moved into a condo and I'm renting a spot that has a nema 14-50R.
I have a charger with a 14-30P end. How can I make this work?
You could buy an adapter, or you could break off the L-shaped neutral pin.
If you look at some of the pictures of the adapters in this thread, the neutral pin is missing.
 

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2023 Chevy Bolt EUV, 2013 Nissan LEAF
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The solution I ordered is a 14-50 plug and a 1ft extension cord. I will cut off the male end off the extension cord and attach the 14-50 plug.
Keep the 14-30 molded end for a nicer looking finished product.

$14.99

$6.70
 

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Keep the 14-30 molded end for a nicer looking finished product.

$14.99

$6.70
If you don't want make up an adapter, ready made adapters are available on Amazon. I am not going to link to any as I have never purchased one.
 

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Premier, Yo, with every goodie!
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....
$14.99
...
$6.70
I know I shouldn't,,,,,,,

Flower Plant Flowerpot Cloud Sky




Or you could take that~ $23 off the price of a real and safe L2 purchase.
16A or 32A or if you have a late model Bolt, 40A. Easy. No dikin with wires and holding your breath the first time you plug it in....
And not having an unsafe electrical outlet laying around your place....

I would think if you can afford a Bolt you can spend a Buckandahalf more and not cheapout.:rolleyes:
 

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I would think if you can afford a Bolt you can spend a Buckandahalf more and not cheapout.:rolleyes:
It's easy to make an assumption... but in the last two years I have seen people in Teslas and Land Rovers in line for free school lunch and other handouts. You never know where someone else is at. I don't make a lot of money. I wanted to drive a Bolt for environmental reasons... I justified driving the Bolt because of how much money I will save. My payment is about 70% of what my FIAT car payment was and I'm paying 80% less in fuel and 100% less in oil changes and brake pads.
 

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2023 Bolt EUV LT
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Wow! I finally finished reading all 16 pages of this. Now, something I don't understand, but hope one of you can explain, is how does the EVSE that came with my 2023 Bolt EUV know what the incoming voltage is? My ESVE came with two adaptors. One has a 3 prong, 120V plug and the other has a 4 prong, 240V plug. So if I plug the 120 plug into a 240 outlet how does the car know the difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 · (Edited)
Wow! I finally finished reading all 16 pages of this. Now, something I don't understand, but hope one of you can explain, is how does the EVSE that came with my 2023 Bolt EUV know what the incoming voltage is? My ESVE came with two adaptors. One has a 3 prong, 120V plug and the other has a 4 prong, 240V plug. So if I plug the 120 plug into a 240 outlet how does the car know the difference?
That's a good question, and given that I have a 2023 EUV on order to replace my 2021 EV, am looking forward to the answer. I know that on the Tesla cars the Tesla outlet adapter is a critical component, as it informs the car how much current to safely draw. It will be interesting to learn if Chevy went this route with its dual voltage EVSE.

I am going to go out on a limb and make a wild guess that if you plug the 120v adapter into a 240v circuit it will work, but the EVSE will only supply the max current designated for 120v charging. Again, wild guess only.

BTW, for all the talk in this thread about purchasing bonafide EVSE's and adapters, it is quite possible to run into trouble using certain adapters designed for a Tesla, namely, some third party adapters. End of the day, it's about applying reason to all decisions and never assume that even an official or branded solution is a no-brainer. And, as The Outlaw Josey Wales said, "A man's got to know his limitations".
 

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Wow! I finally finished reading all 16 pages of this. Now, something I don't understand, but hope one of you can explain, is how does the EVSE that came with my 2023 Bolt EUV know what the incoming voltage is? My ESVE came with two adaptors. One has a 3 prong, 120V plug and the other has a 4 prong, 240V plug. So if I plug the 120 plug into a 240 outlet how does the car know the difference?
It is AutoMagic. If it is like Tesla UMC, it uses resistors on the pigtail, the EVSE senses which pigtail is plugged in, and adjusts accordingly. There are no user configurable settings, so it will either be 8 or 12A (controlled by the car) on 120V, or 32A on 240V.
 

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2023 Bolt EUV LT
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Thanks @Coastal_Cruiser and @ARob . I am waiting on the Qmerit thing to happen. My 100 amp breaker box is full, so I have no idea what the electrician will do or how much it will cost. I know that at 120V the car will limit the power to 12 amps. I also know that using the 120v plug on a 240v outlet will cut the charge time in half because the voltage has been doubled. I just can't understand how the car knows that a 120v is plugged in and to limit the draw to 12 amps. It seems to me that the car would sense the 240v and ask for 32 amps. Got my head spinning.
 

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It is AutoMagic. If it is like Tesla UMC, it uses resistors on the pigtail, the EVSE senses which pigtail is plugged in, and adjusts accordingly. There are no user configurable settings, so it will either be 8 or 12A (controlled by the car) on 120V, or 32A on 240V.
Right… the pigtail sets the maximum current (amperage). The electronics know what the voltage is. That’s why if you plug the 12 amp 120V pigtail into it, but you plug it into a 240V source, it will run at 12 amps at 240V. The pigtail limits the amperage. It doesn’t care what the voltage is, as long as it is within a certain range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
It is AutoMagic. If it is like Tesla UMC, it uses resistors on the pigtail, the EVSE senses which pigtail is plugged in, and adjusts accordingly. There are no user configurable settings, so it will either be 8 or 12A (controlled by the car) on 120V, or 32A on 240V.
Right… the pigtail sets the maximum current (amperage). The electronics know what the voltage is. That’s why if you plug the 12 amp 120V pigtail into it, but you plug it into a 240V source, it will run at 12 amps at 240V. The pigtail limits the amperage. It doesn’t care what the voltage is, as long as it is within a certain range.
You guys are basically correct. Just a note for others to understand better, what you are calling pigtails, Tesla often calls adapters. Also, when Tesla introduced the Model 3 and the Gen 2 Universal Mobile Connector (UMC), they did away with the sole resistor and instead deployed an actual circuit board inside the adapter, which, besides informing the electronics in the UMC (a.k.a. EVSE) of the current capabilities of the outlet, also includes a temp sensor which limits charging if the outlet overheats (and thus heats up the adapter).

I only know this because I was able to interview the only 3rd party vendor (at the time) who had managed to reverse engineer the Gen 2 UMC. I wrote about all this stuff here for anyone who may be interested...
 

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Discussion Starter · #320 ·
My 100 amp breaker box is full, so I have no idea what the electrician will do or how much it will cost.
Off topic. Your statement reminded me of a solution I may be looking for to solve for when electrical loads in the house at times leave to little current to charge the car. I am wondering if there is a device that you could plug your EVSE into that would monitor the overall draw for the house and disconnect the outlet the EVSE is plugged into when current use is too high in the house. This magical device would then reactivate the EVSE outlet when the house load subsided. Rinse and repeat.
 
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