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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a 2018 Bolt that recently had the batteries swapped. When the car got home it started giving warnings about the high voltage coolant issue. I popped the hood and noticed one of the coolant tanks was empty. I called the dealership and they said it was normal it might be a bubble. The car began refusing to shift and would say "conditions not available to shift". The dealership sent a flatbed and filled the coolant. Now the car is hit or miss on codes and ability to shift. We took it back to the dealer and they say we need a new HVAC heater to the tune of $2300. The car just turned 40K miles and I think something happened when they swapped the main batteries. Any assistance or advice is appreciated.
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What codes are you still getting?

The heater shouldn't cause it to refuse to shift. It sounds to me like they didn't follow the proper procedure when refilling the coolant after the battery replacement, or you would never have been low on coolant.
Random codes and all sorts of misbehavior are often caused by a weak or low 12V battery as well.
You might want to call the EV concierge about this before paying them for anything.
 

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Hopefully they didn't let the fluidic block heater to run dry, and fry it. $2300 is ridiculous for that. Its a cheap part, and right on top and easily accessed IIRC. And if the heater was fried, they should cover it.
 

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We have a 2018 Bolt that recently had the batteries swapped. When the car got home it started giving warnings about the high voltage coolant issue. I popped the hood and noticed one of the coolant tanks was empty. I called the dealership and they said it was normal it might be a bubble. The car began refusing to shift and would say "conditions not available to shift". The dealership sent a flatbed and filled the coolant. Now the car is hit or miss on codes and ability to shift. We took it back to the dealer and they say we need a new HVAC heater to the tune of $2300. The car just turned 40K miles and I think something happened when they swapped the main batteries. Any assistance or advice is appreciated.
An empty coolant container sounds a lot like a critical mistake during the replacement procedure.
Having a chat with the GM EV concierge might be a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What codes are you still getting?

The heater shouldn't cause it to refuse to shift. It sounds to me like they didn't follow the proper procedure when refilling the coolant after the battery replacement, or you would never have been low on coolant.
Random codes and all sorts of misbehavior are often caused by a weak or low 12V battery as well.
You might want to call the EV concierge about this before paying them for anything.
U1525. Thank you guys for the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hopefully they didn't let the fluidic block heater to run dry, and fry it. $2300 is ridiculous for that. Its a cheap part, and right on top and easily accessed IIRC. And if the heater was fried, they should cover it.
I agree but was not sure where it was located. They wanted $900 for the part and $1200 for labor....
 

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Yeah, I will try to contact GM EV costumer service. The Dealer mess up big time and trying to blame you for it. You can look at minute 28 from WeberAuto video and see that the container should have never been empty.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am in chat with them now.... they want me to take it to a different dealer, and probably pay for another test to confirm it's busted.... they can't do anything about it.

On another note, you guys are awesome. Thank you for the information and support.
 

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. they want me to take it to a different dealer, and probably pay for another test to confirm it's busted.... they can't do anything about it.
"They can't do anything" about incompetent dealership repairs?
gm paid them to do the Battery Recall.
Why can't they force this dealership to do the right thing without putting the burden on you to 'shop around' for a possible competent dealer?
That's not helping at all,,,, and that's their main purpose.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They said they leave issues like this up to the dealers. I have the invoices and photos like I have posted but they can't do anything. They gave me the number for a different dealership and recommended I call them before taking it in so we can talk price. This is killing me because the car was PERFECT before the swap.
 

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Agree with others, several users have reported techs not vacuuming the coolant lines after battery swap, so the lines are full of air bubbles. This leads to improper cooling and an underfull reservoir and throwing codes.

One wonders if the dealer just vacuumed the coolant lines, topped off the coolant and cleared the codes if you would be 'OK'? Not an expensive or hard job.
 

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After reader the message from the dealer, if you read carefully; it may be a cable not connected or loose. Specially the part that said that it reads -40, that could be the default reading when the sensor is not connected. I would look under the car if possible and check all cable connections. At least if anything paying $100 for diagnostics is better than $2300.
 

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I agree but was not sure where it was located. They wanted $900 for the part and $1200 for labor....
They wanted $970 just to replace the Diver's Side Door handle. The external button on the handle was faulty. Their cost structure is outrageous. Fortunately, installation of the new battery went perfectly and I can just push the door button on the back door or even use the fob.
 

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Sounds like you dropped it off for batt replacement and at the time you dropped it off, you had no codes and the HVAC heater was fine. They do work on it and now it's throwing codes and needs a new HVAC heater after they are done. Let's get real: they broke it and they need to fix their f-up!

That should be a good faith thing in every case. You didn't ask for the batt to have to be replaced: that was a recall. They perform the recall and return the car with 2 or 3 things busted that weren't busted before they started the work. By definition, they should be responsible for fixing them! Dealers shouldn't be allowed to do recall work and return the car broken and then claim you have to pay for what they broke!

Mike
 

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Hopefully they didn't let the fluidic block heater to run dry, and fry it. $2300 is ridiculous for that. Its a cheap part, and right on top and easily accessed IIRC. And if the heater was fried, they should cover it.
The reservoir they refill during battery replacement is the one for the traction battery system. That is the one that is empty in the OPs picture.The tankless heater for that loop is in front of the battery pack, under the plastic splash shield. It is less than a quarter of the price of the larger HVAC heater. However, if it failed, it is because they did not use the required vacuum procedure for the refill. That is on them. If they are claiming the problem is the cabin heater, they are either idiots, or lying to cover they mistake. The cabin heater failing will have no effect on driveability, and will not prevent driving, or charging.

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