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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a strange situation I ran into today.

So I drove about 50 miles which is about as a long of a drive as I ever do, but it's a drive I've done dozens of times.

I started out close to 40% SoC with about 100Mi of estimated range displayed, after driving 70-75 on the freeway I arrived with 19% SoC which is close to the lowest I've ever had the battery (one time I took it down to 15%).

There are some free Clipper Creek chargers here, I was rolling the dice a bit because if I was unable to charge here (sometimes all the chargers are occupied) I would not have the range to go home, but I knew there are probably a half-dozen DCFC sites between here and home so I was never in and real danger of being stranded.

Anyways I was able to plug into one of the chargers as expected, came back about 5 hours later and the battery is at ~65% but it's also reasonably hot @ 32C. I decide to turn on the car which causes the battery cooling cycle to kick in, I locked the car and went next door to have lunch.

Came back about a half hour later and the battery is nice and cool (27C) and is up to ~70%, I have more than enough range to get home so I go ahead and unplug. So far so good.

But when I put the car in reverse so I could move from the charging stall I got a warning that propulsion power was reduced and a warning light on the dash.

I went ahead and moved the car, noticing that in this configuration L mode is effectively disabled and I have next to no regen, with the RoD paddle doing nothing.

After driving a couple blocks and parking again, I turned off the car then turned it back on, there was no warning message saying propulsion power was still reduced but the warning light was still on so I assume it still is.

I checked and there were no DTCs stored in the ECU.

I also checked the battery cell voltages and they all looked good, all within 0.01V of each other (either 3.84xx or 3.85xx.


I turned the car off and here I am, I will be leaving to go home in a couple hours. If it doesn't fix itself I'll try disconnecting the 12V battery to "reboot" the ECU. If that doesn't work I'l try a "full" (HTR) charge cycle on Monday and if that doesn't work I guess I'm bringing it to the dealer (joy).

I'll update when I find out more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting, I have used this same OBD reader quite a lot, for a long time I was using it on every drive but OnStar has been (theoretically) trying to figure out what's wrong with my OnStar data connection (car stopped uploading data to OnStar about a month after I bought the car (well before I started using OBD/Torque) so lately I've been keeping the dongle unplugged most of the time, only using it when I'm charging so I can capture how many kWh I'm putting into the battery.

Still, if the OBD reader was causing the problem you wouldn't think it would happen when I put the car in reverse.
 

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Still, if the OBD reader was causing the problem you wouldn't think it would happen when I put the car in reverse.
to quote @Moonburn in referenced post:
Last week I plugged it in and forgot about it. This morning I started to back out of the garage and I had no power steering.
Issue appeared after putting into reverse. I'm sure it didn't matter what gear, but maybe reverse with the backup camera, display changing, and the OBDII reader has too much data on the bus. The similarities caught my attention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'd get the car to a dealership for diagnostics ASAP. Sounds to me what you had is a "warning" that something is not right - and should be heeded...
Yeah I'm not going to waste my time with that, I had a MIL (AKA "check engine" light) with a code a couple months ago so I took it to the dealer, they "reset" the code and sent me on my way without doing a lick of troubleshooting, I could have reset the code myself and saved myself a couple hours of hassle.
 

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Yeah I'm not going to waste my time with that, I had a MIL (AKA "check engine" light) with a code a couple months ago so I took it to the dealer, they "reset" the code and sent me on my way without doing a lick of troubleshooting, I could have reset the code myself and saved myself a couple hours of hassle.
When my PC acts up bringing it to a computer repair shop is not my first reaction. A simple reboot usually corrects the problem. A BEV is a very expensive computer on wheels.
 

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Came back about a half hour later and the battery is nice and cool (27C) and is up to ~70%,
Similar thing happened to me today after a DCFC at an EVgo station. Charged to 69% and turned the station off after it started tapering around 70 amps. Each time I came to a complete stop on the way home, I got the reduced propulsion warning. Only one time out of 5 was the propulsion actually reduced, and stopping the car and accelerating "reset" it so that no reduction occurred even though I still got the message. The orange/red icon was on the whole time.
When I got home I searched this forum and found this thread. I disconnected the negative battery terminal (11mm by the way), waited 30 seconds, and reconnected. I heard a buzzing sound for about 5 seconds, then the lights started flashing and the horn started blowing, like an alarm had been triggered. I unlocked and opened the door and the alarm stopped.
When I started the car, the warning was gone and I drove it for about 6 miles in stop an go traffic with no issues. I hope it's "fixed". Thanks for the tip re: disconnecting the battery. Oh, and I don't have an OBDII reader so that didn't cause it.
 
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