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Discussion Starter #42
There's already a good thread on how various people have used their Bolts for emergency power, but in short, if you have a good inverter (or are prepared to buy one), and you don't require more than 1kW sustained, it's not hard to do.

Of course if your access road is also blocked by falling trees, that can be a more serious nuisance...
So now you all REALLY got me thinking. Maybe I can do an inverter on my Bolt for my refrigerator and heater rather than dealing with a generator.

Just want to start off saying that I have MINIMAL electrical knowledge/comfortability outside of replacing a household light switch or ceiling fan.
With that being said from what I understand from the video with the Chevy guy saying it maxes out at 1.6kW...so no point in getting an inverter much more than that right? 2000W max should suffice and 2500W or 3000W inverter is pointless money spent correct?

Here is the video I am referencing at 10:50ish

Also does this inverter must be a "Sine Wave"?

I apologize for the novice/newbie questions!
 

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So now you all REALLY got me thinking. Maybe I can do an inverter on my Bolt for my refrigerator and heater rather than dealing with a generator.

Just want to start off saying that I have MINIMAL electrical knowledge/comfortability outside of replacing a household light switch or ceiling fan.
With that being said from what I understand from the video with the Chevy guy saying it maxes out at 1.6kW...so no point in getting an inverter much more than that right? 2000W max should suffice and 2500W or 3000W inverter is pointless money spent correct?

Here is the video I am referencing at 10:50ish

Also does this inverter must be a "Sine Wave"?

I apologize for the novice/newbie questions!
You need a pure sine wave inverter. This just refers to the purity of the electricity you are putting out. Modified sine waves can damage electronics. I'd recommend either a 1500 or a 2000 watt inverter. I chose the 2000 watt because even though it goes slightly over the 1600kW the DC/DC output it'll give me a buffer of 800 to 1000 watts because of the 12v. I have a Magnum Dimensions CSW-2012.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
You need a pure sine wave inverter. This just refers to the purity of the electricity you are putting out. Modified sine waves can damage electronics. I'd recommend either a 1500 or a 2000 watt inverter. I chose the 2000 watt because even though it goes slightly over the 1600kW the DC/DC output it'll give me a buffer of 800 to 1000 watts because of the 12v. I have a Magnum Dimensions CSW-2012.
So this one is appropriate?

I would only need to verify that the included wire connectors are able to attach to my Bolt battery. If not then am I safe to assume I can cut the old ones off and crimp appropriate sized ones?
 

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So this one is appropriate?

I would only need to verify that the included wire connectors are able to attach to my Bolt battery. If not then am I safe to assume I can cut the old ones off and crimp appropriate sized ones?
Yea, never heard of the brand but if it looks solid and is verified to have pure sine waves then I'd go for it. I didn't think they were that cheap.
You also shouldn't need to cut anything. I'd recommend using ring terminals (the ones with solder inside that need a heat gun) and attaching it somewhere on the positive and negative leads. Keep your leads short and use 4-2awg for anything under 4 feet. You might be able to mount it under your hood, on your inverter stack. My plan is to run a 15ampere extension cord from the engine bay through the firewall and into the space behind the center console area (between where the drivers and passenger's feet go) and splicing another cable onto that (so one outlet is tucked in there) and running another cable to the trunk area under the trim on the side of the passenger seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Yea, never heard of the brand but if it looks solid and is verified to have pure sine waves then I'd go for it. I didn't think they were that cheap.
You also shouldn't need to cut anything. I'd recommend using ring terminals (the ones with solder inside that need a heat gun) and attaching it somewhere on the positive and negative leads. Keep your leads short and use 4-2awg for anything under 4 feet. You might be able to mount it under your hood, on your inverter stack. My plan is to run a 15ampere extension cord from the engine bay through the firewall and into the space behind the center console area (between where the drivers and passenger's feet go) and splicing another cable onto that (so one outlet is tucked in there) and running another cable to the trunk area under the trim on the side of the passenger seat.
Purchased! Once I have it in hand I’ll return the generator (which I haven’t opened)

For my setup I was thinking of going much more simpler than what you explain. I would like to find a way to mount it on the garage wall by the people door to my house so it’s out of the way but accessible. I can then use a <12’ extension cord for the refrigerator. To connect the inverter to the car I would just open the hood and have to connect the wires to the car battery if there is ever a prolonged outage.
 

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Purchased! Once I have it in hand I’ll return the generator (which I haven’t opened)

For my setup I was thinking of going much more simpler than what you explain. I would like to find a way to mount it on the garage wall by the people door to my house so it’s out of the way but accessible. I can then use a <12’ extension cord for the refrigerator. To connect the inverter to the car I would just open the hood and have to connect the wires to the car battery if there is ever a prolonged outage.
You need to keep your wires coming from the 12v to the inverter really short. Like less than 5 feet at 2/0awg Your I^2 losses will build up heat and you could melt your insulation. Lower voltage means you needs more amperes to get that 2000w mark which is about 190amperes! Or close to what your car pulls at a supercharger.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
You need to keep your wires coming from the 12v to the inverter really short. Like less than 5 feet at 2/0awg Your I^2 losses will build up heat and you could melt your insulation. Lower voltage means you needs more amperes to get that 2000w mark which is about 190amperes! Or close to what your car pulls at a supercharger.
Thank you for that bit of info! They include 3' of (2X) 4awg (so 2awg?) with the inverter so I can use that as a primary. I do have a spool of 1awg at work which I just cut myself two 10' sections for now and will cut it down to the minimum required length then have my fantastic boss give me the thumbs up (He is an Ele Eng)


Also found this one which costs even less but is not worth it for me to go through jumping through the hoops needed.
Eastwood Pure Sine Wave Auto Power Inverter 2000 Watts - Much less expensive but no wires included and a 2hr+ round trip drive to pick up vs paying for shipping would even out the total cost for me.
 

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Thank you for that bit of info! They include 3' of (2X) 4awg (so 2awg?) with the inverter so I can use that as a primary. I do have a spool of 1awg at work which I just cut myself two 10' sections for now and will cut it down to the minimum required length then have my fantastic boss give me the thumbs up (He is an Ele Eng)


Also found this one which costs even less but is not worth it for me to go through jumping through the hoops needed.
Eastwood Pure Sine Wave Auto Power Inverter 2000 Watts - Much less expensive but no wires included and a 2hr+ round trip drive to pick up vs paying for shipping would even out the total cost for me.
Good on ya. Feel free to update us on your setup. What's your plan to attach the wires to the inverter and 12v?
 

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The charger in the bolt is very expensive. Since our Bolt isn't under warranty, I wouldn't feed it from a generator, except maybe an inverter generator. Or a Xantrex inverter hooked to our ICE.

To flip things around, we sold our generator with the plan of using our EV to power the essentials (especially blower on furnace in winter, or fridge + freezer in summer). We can drive the EV to a DCFC if it runs low.
I like this idea - here is a Bolt compatible inverter to run your house off of:

 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
The inverter arrived Wednesday. The connector loops on the included 2x 4AWG wires are too large for the small bolt on the post clamp and to small to put on the post under the clamp. I really do not want to modify the included wires so it seems like I need to make a connection with my 1AWG. The included connector loop OD is .75" and the ID is .40"

Reviewing more info it seems the point of connection between the wire to the inverter and the battery is the weakest point which could cause losses and excessive heat. I am now looking to see if there is such a connector that I can install under the post clamp as that would give a larger surface area/contact point rather than the small bolt. Largest I have found so far is 3/4" ID so I will need to see if that will work with the largest post on the battery.

The above wire kit is interesting but I would rather not spend $200 on just a wire kit no matter how nice and clean it looks. I am actually interested in how they connected it to the battery as I do not see any wires or connectors other than the ground pig tail.

My boss just suggested jumper cable clamps which would be easy. Anyone have input on this?



Measured the battery post and its larger than 5/8 but smaller than 3/4 so I will need to go with the 3/4 connector if I go the route of placing the connector loop under the post clamp.
 

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My boss just suggested jumper cable clamps which would be easy. Anyone have input on this?
I considered this as well but, from what I've read on various EV/RV forums, cable clamps might not be secure enough to create the best conditions and can cause problems down the line. I still got 4AWG clamps (Amazon.com: Preassembled 4 AWG 2 Foot Alligator Clamp Battery Cable Set with 5/16" Ring Terminal by Spartan Power Made in The USA: Home Audio & Theater) to see if they'll work in a pinch but they also come with ring connectors. I'm waiting on my inverter to come in this weekend, though.
 

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The inverter arrived Wednesday. The connector loops on the included 2x 4AWG wires are too large for the small bolt on the post clamp and to small to put on the post under the clamp. I really do not want to modify the included wires so it seems like I need to make a connection with my 1AWG. The included connector loop OD is .75" and the ID is .40"

Reviewing more info it seems the point of connection between the wire to the inverter and the battery is the weakest point which could cause losses and excessive heat. I am now looking to see if there is such a connector that I can install under the post clamp as that would give a larger surface area/contact point rather than the small bolt. Largest I have found so far is 3/4" ID so I will need to see if that will work with the largest post on the battery.

The above wire kit is interesting but I would rather not spend $200 on just a wire kit no matter how nice and clean it looks. I am actually interested in how they connected it to the battery as I do not see any wires or connectors other than the ground pig tail.
the wire kit from EV connect connects to the hot side of fuse box, not the battery itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Received my larger connector loops Thursday. These were perfectly be sized for the negative post but these in hand made me realize the area around the positive post is really tight for the wire without bending the connector. This made me look around more and notice that there is a bolt that is just next to the positive post (about 1.5" away towards the front of the vehicle) which would work with the original connector loop so only the negative post needed to have the wire modified.

I then showed my boss my connector loops and he questioned me why I don't just make a copper adaptor plate so I didn't have to modify anything. I oddly enough have a stack of scrap copper plates in my office and 10min of machining later I have a copper plate that mounts onto the negative post below the car crimp and bolts the look connector that came with the inverter. I tested it at home that night and it fit perfectly.

This is where I went back to the positive post to try and unscrew the bolt I mention above that was 1.5" away from the post and I could not budge it. It did have an alignment mark on it so it must have been torqued by GM and I really didn't want to break anything so I left it be. I then figure if the copper adaptor plate concept worked for the negative plate that I could make one for the positive. Because of the tight area I am going to have the post hole then a 90deg bend upwards for the inverter connector loop. I hope to have the time to make this today.


Items remaining for proof of concept...to my wife because she is questioning this whole experiment but is supportive because she wants a back up power option.
Positive adaptor plate
10awg ground wire (to ground the inverter chasse per the inverter instructions)
Decide on 140amp or 150amp inline breaker - First I need to verify the required amps I calculated. Appliances of 750w+600w= 1350w then divided by 10 (still confused why 10 and not 12) = 135amps. So if the 2x4AWG wire table says its good up to 150amp can I use a 150amp breaker or do I need to be under the max and use a 140amp breaker?


ALSO note that when you disconnect your battery that your GPS home charging location clears which also triggers several other charging features to "disappear". I thought this was due to the dealer putting the 2017-2019 recall restriction on my car but nope it was user error! So after you reconnect the battery you will need to set your home GPS on.
 

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Received my larger connector loops Thursday. These were perfectly be sized for the negative post but these in hand made me realize the area around the positive post is really tight for the wire without bending the connector. This made me look around more and notice that there is a bolt that is just next to the positive post (about 1.5" away towards the front of the vehicle) which would work with the original connector loop so only the negative post needed to have the wire modified.

I then showed my boss my connector loops and he questioned me why I don't just make a copper adaptor plate so I didn't have to modify anything. I oddly enough have a stack of scrap copper plates in my office and 10min of machining later I have a copper plate that mounts onto the negative post below the car crimp and bolts the look connector that came with the inverter. I tested it at home that night and it fit perfectly.

This is where I went back to the positive post to try and unscrew the bolt I mention above that was 1.5" away from the post and I could not budge it. It did have an alignment mark on it so it must have been torqued by GM and I really didn't want to break anything so I left it be. I then figure if the copper adaptor plate concept worked for the negative plate that I could make one for the positive. Because of the tight area I am going to have the post hole then a 90deg bend upwards for the inverter connector loop. I hope to have the time to make this today.


Items remaining for proof of concept...to my wife because she is questioning this whole experiment but is supportive because she wants a back up power option.
Positive adaptor plate
10awg ground wire (to ground the inverter chasse per the inverter instructions)
Decide on 140amp or 150amp inline breaker - First I need to verify the required amps I calculated. Appliances of 750w+600w= 1350w then divided by 10 (still confused why 10 and not 12) = 135amps. So if the 2x4AWG wire table says its good up to 150amp can I use a 150amp breaker or do I need to be under the max and use a 140amp breaker?


ALSO note that when you disconnect your battery that your GPS home charging location clears which also triggers several other charging features to "disappear". I thought this was due to the dealer putting the 2017-2019 recall restriction on my car but nope it was user error! So after you reconnect the battery you will need to set your home GPS on.
At this point I am just winging it and smelling for smoke.

I've got 5/8 inch ring terminals on each side of a 3 foot 1/0awg wire. I then cut that 3 foot wire in half and slapped a 200 amp anderson connector on each of the new ends.
 

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Just keep in mind that all this 12VDC power comes from the 400VDC to 12VDC converter.
And you are working it WAY harder than anything it sees when powering the Bolt alone.
Is it air-cooled or liquid cooled.
The Bolt has to be powered up to use it, correct? How long does the Bolt stay powered on sitting still in Park?

I salute you pioneers! Suck up as much 12VDC power as you can, for research!
Just be sure to report when you find the limit.
 

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Just keep in mind that all this 12VDC power comes from the 400VDC to 12VDC converter.
And you are working it WAY harder than anything it sees when powering the Bolt alone.
Is it air-cooled or liquid cooled.
The Bolt has to be powered up to use it, correct? How long does the Bolt stay powered on sitting still in Park?

I salute you pioneers! Suck up as much 12VDC power as you can, for research!
Just be sure to report when you find the limit.
The power comes from a 1.6kW continuous DC/DC converter. It should be fine and I do believe it is passively air cooled which shouldn't be a problem and if it is then I will plug a fan in. My induction cooktop takes a max of 1100 watts and my heater is 800 watts max. I won't run either at the same time, but the stove on a medium setting and heater should only draw 1200 watts perhaps. I dunno, I'm heading out to Hanksville (Goblin Valley area) to go do some lite canyoneering and will experiment with my new inverter setup.

EDIT: You can put the vehicle into a "Camp Mode" by chocking the wheels, shifting it in Neutral putting on the eBrake and escaping from the passenger side door. I've slept in my car using that method.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
At this point I am just winging it and smelling for smoke.

I've got 5/8 inch ring terminals on each side of a 3 foot 1/0awg wire. I then cut that 3 foot wire in half and slapped a 200 amp anderson connector on each of the new ends.
I found a Camper Van based 12v wiring guide that also suggested a 200amp breaker for my 3ft ea (6 total ft) of 1AWG.
 

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The power comes from a 1.6kW continuous DC/DC converter. It should be fine and I do believe it is passively air cooled which shouldn't be a problem and if it is then I will plug a fan in. .....
Then again, where did you get this 1.6kW continuous rating?
No 80% recommendations?
How will you monitor it's running temp?

Either way, go for it! Find out what the limits are!
 

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Then again, where did you get this 1.6kW continuous rating?
No 80% recommendations?
How will you monitor it's running temp?

Either way, go for it! Find out what the limits are!

I dunno if that's 80% but I plan on running it at 1600 watts because that's what it's rated for (just like how i charge my car to 57.2kWh)

My nose (perhaps a IR thermometer.)

32957

32958
 
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