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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks,

I have one of those 2017 Bolts that were identified requiring recall due to battery.

When the recall was first announced in October 2020, I took my car into a dealership, and after bringing the recall to their attention, they applied the temporary fix. When I left the dealership, the next day my Chevrolet app still showed that my car needed a recall due to the battery.

Now, March 2021, the Bolt started to throw code U1510. If I cleared it, it would come back on every time I started the car. So, April 2021 - I took it back to the dealership, addressed that (which ended up being a short in a wire to some shutter component for the battery) and requested that they reapply the recall software update again. The thought was that it did not update some database and maybe redoing it would reset the display of the message that it requires a recall.

So... I told you all that to say this: Reapplying the software "fix" did not remove the recall message from the app.

QUESTION: Is that the expected behavior? For those who have had the temporary fix applied, does your app still show that there is a recall?

Thanks.
 

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My car got a new battery, and when the battery was replaced they did the recall. As far as I know (I haven't checked recently) the app still says I need the recall. If you are in doubt about having the recall successfully installed in your car, check to see if the hilltop reserve option is gone. If it is, your car has had the recall patch installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK.

Don't know since my '19 isn't under recall, but... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCMN-20V701-3779.pdf
Wow... I had not see that stop sale document before. And while the fix has been applied (as I do not have hilltop) it is not in my opinion "remedied". I am working with Kendra, submitting the buy-back info and seeing how that goes. This is one more thing to add to the mix.

So: Fix applied, but recall notice still stays in the app until a permanent resolution is applied. Got it. Thanks, and I won't pester the dealership further.

You are 11 days late with this post. Made me chuckle though. ;)
I have NO idea what that means... was that an answer to a different thread?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No. It means I thought your post was an April fools joke. Why in the world would you care what the ridiculously incompetent app says?
I have a 2017 $42,000.00 car with less than 20,000 miles that is only providing 90% capability of what I had purchased. And to add insult to injury, the dealership offered me $16,100 as a trade in this week.

This means that my theoretical depreciation of this vehicle per year on this is $720 PER MONTH !!! Less my fed & state rebate (with the fed rebate not really being a rebate, of course), that still means $372 per month thrown out the window for this GM boondoggle.


This could possibly be the worst car purchase that I have ever made. And being the car fanatic that I am, that says a lot.

So, if that is an April Fools joke, I don't get it.
 

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I have a 2017 $42,000.00 car with less than 20,000 miles that is only providing 90% capability of what I had purchased. And to add insult to injury, the dealership offered me $16,100 as a trade in this week.

So, if that is an April Fools joke, I don't get it.
Yeah. My dentist just bought a brand new Bolt for that.

The battery problem is a pain. I just don't understand why you thought the fact that the app couldn't figure out that you had had the patch was a concern. Most days the app can't figure out how many miles are on your car.
 

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Many (most?) folks who purchased way back then also could take advantage of the $7500 Federal tax credit. And, many states have rebates or incentives (e.g. CA CVRP which IIRC was $2500 back then).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Many (most?) folks who purchased way back then also could take advantage of the $7500 Federal tax credit. And, many states have rebates or incentives (e.g. CA CVRP which IIRC was $2500 back then).
Agreed... the second number that I listed in my calculation took that into account: $372 / month. Which for a GM product could have likely been a Caddy lease for three years with all service included... (not that I want a caddy).

If you really want to lower the average monthly depreciation then just keep driving the car for 20 years...
I know that you were referencing the logic of basic math... clearly, if I kept it for 100 years, I would prolly be doing great by the monthly cost.

While I appreciate your suggested direction, I will likely proceed with the cash-out buy back.
 
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