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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well, here we have it. After they've had my car for a month and tried multiple things without success the dealership submitted a request to GM for a full battery replacement. That replacement was approved today. It's going to be a week until they get the battery in, then supposed to be a 5-6hr job. Considering it's taken so long to get to this point I am not holding my breath.

As the car is leased I find it creates an interesting situation. I'm paying a monthly fee to drive an EV and will have spent about 1.5 of my 36 months driving and ICE and paying for fuel. As far as I'm concerned I'm not getting what I am paying for.
 

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As the car is leased I find it creates an interesting situation. I'm paying a monthly fee to drive an EV and will have spent about 1.5 of my 36 months driving and ICE and paying for fuel. As far as I'm concerned I'm not getting what I am paying for.
Life threw you a lemon. Your number was up, be thankful that it's a lease and you'll be unloading it. In a perfect scenario, a battery replacement should go smoothly. However, I have a different opinion on the capabilities of the run of the mill service tech and who knows what is going to get screwed up in the process. Your experience isn't 'typical' nor should you expect it again. Just shitty luck. I live in a country that is lawsuit happy, harbors unrealistic expectations, blames everyone else, expects everything for free, raises assholes if they are even raising 'them.' I don't know where you live so you might have recourse to have them buy it back. I wish you luck, it could happen, yet, to any of us.
 

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We feel your pain, but based upon what we read here and on the lesser Bolt forum, most Bolt owners have had zero problems and zero service issues.

In perspective, the Bolt is a relatively inexpensive electromechanical device built by a worldwide group of lowest cost suppliers. If one wants to see how the high-rollers experience BEV, spend some time over on the Tesla forum; their $100,000 S/Xs are often in the shop for months. Better yet, in the ICE, go to the fora where those with $100,000+BMW/M-B/Audi/Porsche write about how much time their status symbols spend in the Service Department.

jack vines
 

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Well, here we have it. After they've had my car for a month and tried multiple things without success the dealership submitted a request to GM for a full battery replacement. That replacement was approved today. It's going to be a week until they get the battery in, then supposed to be a 5-6hr job. Considering it's taken so long to get to this point I am not holding my breath.

As the car is leased I find it creates an interesting situation. I'm paying a monthly fee to drive an EV and will have spent about 1.5 of my 36 months driving and ICE and paying for fuel. As far as I'm concerned I'm not getting what I am paying for.
I would definitely see if GM was willing to compensate you for your Bolt being in the shop for over a month.

Of course if you were a Tesla owner, you'd be counting your blessings your car was "only" in the shop for 6 weeks. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Better yet, in the ICE, go to the fora where those with $100,000+BMW/M-B/Audi/Porsche write about how much time their status symbols spend in the Service Department.

jack vines
Funny...my 2006 Porsche Cayman S had an original sticker of $104K (I bought it used for a fraction of that) and over my 5 years of ownership it's only been in the shop for servicing. Be careful not to generalize.

I'm not generalizing on my Bolt getting the battery replaced. I'm just providing updates on the situation I'm experiencing in order to help other owners if they see similar symptoms. I haven't written off my Bolt and don't plan to. I'm looking forward to finally having it back actually. Issues show up, ICE or EV, and it's not fun when it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I would definitely see if GM was willing to compensate you for your Bolt being in the shop for over a month.

Of course if you were a Tesla owner, you'd be counting your blessings your car was "only" in the shop for 6 weeks. ;)
Honestly I'm not even sure how to go about that. Considering they provided a loaner I'm guessing they're calling it "even"?

Tesla, Chevy, BMW or Porsche, it doesn't matter the manufacturer. I'm not specifically pointing fingers at anyone. I once had a Mini that was in and out of the shop for multiple months because of an electrical issue that caused the check engine light to come on regularly. Took them forever to work it out. In the States the car would have been a lemon. In France, where I grew up, it's still driving along and has been under the ownership of my parents for 15 years.

But, on the Tesla point, my friend who's Model 3 Performance had to be in the shop for over a month was at least given an EV loaner and a Model S to boot. So if we're comparing, he made out a bit better on the loaner situation ;)
 

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Note that the bars in the dash are "optimistic". I.e. two bars below 3/4 could mean any amount from 61% to 65%. You can see the remaining amount to the 1% resolution in the myChevrolet app.
There were several posts here, & in other threads about counting “bars”.
I find the bars on the dash display to be not well defined.
A much cleaner presentation is from that otherwise utterly useless “Flow” display on the 10” screen. Just tap “Energy”, then the “Flow” icon. The picture of the battery, with green stripes, is divided into quarters, & much clearer than the dash display.
It’s about the only thing that screen is useful for.
 

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Cross-post from my thread. Hope this helps.

:) Battery Fix

Symptom: Decreased Capacity of High Voltage Battery (38 kWh usable of 60 kWh)
Initial Service Response: No DTCS found on any module. 51 mi test drive & vehicle working under specs
* I told them a test drive won't manifest the problem. Look at the energy consumed after any drive, compare kWh consumed with kWh remaining on battery and you will see it is not at full capacity. They contacted TAC (Chevrolet technical assistance?).
Problem Identified: #83 cell voltage out of specs (41% out of spec)
Resolution:Replace battery module (row 2).

The Bolt has 288 cells in the battery "pack" that are wired in series. One cell failure (3.71V [low] versus battery "pack" average of 4.14V), the entire battery runs at the reduced voltage. One bad cell reduced my 60 kWh battery to an effective 35 kWh.

If you experience low capacity, tell GM Service it is low "capacity". Capacity is the battery's energy and range varies based on driving habits, temperatures, climate usage, etc."

Attached: GM's Hybrid/EV Battery Reduced Range Document ID: 5053779 diagnostic procedure and test results. EDIT: added individual pages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Cross-post from my thread. Hope this helps.

:) Battery Fix

Symptom: Decreased Capacity of High Voltage Battery (38 kWh usable of 60 kWh)
Initial Service Response: No DTCS found on any module. 51 mi test drive & vehicle working under specs
* I told them a test drive won't manifest the problem. Look at the energy consumed after any drive, compare kWh consumed with kWh remaining on battery and you will see it is not at full capacity. They contacted TAC (Chevrolet technical assistance?).
Problem Identified: #83 cell voltage out of specs (41% out of spec)
Resolution:Replace battery module (row 2).

The Bolt has 288 cells in the battery "pack" that are wired in series. One cell failure (3.71V [low] versus battery "pack" average of 4.14V), the entire battery runs at the reduced voltage. One bad cell reduced my 60 kWh battery to an effective 35 kWh.

If you experience low capacity, tell GM Service it is low "capacity". Capacity is the battery's energy and range varies based on driving habits, temperatures, climate usage, etc."

Attached: GM's Hybrid/EV Battery Reduced Range Document ID: 5053779 diagnostic procedure and test results. Sorry about the long image, it would not let me upload a PDF larger than 20 KB :(
You've gotten significantly more information out of your advisor/s than I have. My guy hasn't given me much detailed information on the process that was followed. Just a few updates along the way.

On the humoristic note, they called me on Saturday because there was a recall on my loaner. Had to take it back in and get it swapped out for another :rolleyes: That did allow us to see our little Bolt, sitting in their lot all forlorn. We asked to access the car to get a few items we hadn't expected to be missing for a month. I checked the dash which read a range of 10 miles with all but two lines full. Looking forward to that new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
After 39 days our Bolt came home with a brand new battery! It was a heck of a back and forth with the dealer to get to the point where they decided the whole battery needed changed but, once they did, it was pretty quick. Just under a week to get the part and just a few hours to get it installed.

The range/numbers are looking much more consistent. Glad to have it back. My month+ in a Chevy Trax then Chevy Malibu only confirmed the Bolt is awesome for my daily commuting.

On a sidenote I have reached out to GM customer support to ask about compensation for losing out on over a month of my EV lease, with the loss of carpool lane access and free parking for EVs in Santa Monica. We'll see what they say. As I've been taught by one of my previous bosses "If you don't A-S-K, you don't G-E-T".
 

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Boy, your battery problem reminded me of the one I had on my old Miev. It was losing capacity regularly until it was down to 35 miles! It took months to get a new battery. First, they denied there was a problem, then it was software-related. I finally made their mechanic charge it up full and drive it until empty. They finally admitted there was a problem after that. A mechanic later took me aside and said they were resisting replacing the battery for $$ reasons. Of course, I added Mitsubishi to my "Schitt list". I'm hoping the Chevy is better about battery problems than them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Boy, your battery problem reminded me of the one I had on my old Miev. It was losing capacity regularly until it was down to 35 miles! It took months to get a new battery. First, they denied there was a problem, then it was software-related. I finally made their mechanic charge it up full and drive it until empty. They finally admitted there was a problem after that. A mechanic later took me aside and said they were resisting replacing the battery for $$ reasons. Of course, I added Mitsubishi to my "Schitt list". I'm hoping the Chevy is better about battery problems than them.
On the first visit, when they only did a software update and sent the car on it's way, I truly think there exist multiple avenues for them to improve their service. Based on what I was describing to them, they should have pushed the analysis further than two software updates and returning the car to me, completely unfixed, after 2hrs. I think they drove it for all of 5 miles before calling it a day. Let's just say there was no way they returned that car to me with any certainty that it was ok.

When I brought the car back in, and specifically asked if they had tested the battery, they continued down the path of software updates. It took a couple days before they looked at anything else. I understand they can't cry wolf every-time somebody comes in with an EV. It's not frequently a full battery replacement that's needed. But they do need to do better with understanding the described symptoms and being more thorough in the work they perform based off that.
 

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2017 Bolt with 50K miles. Fully charged here is the dashboard reading. Max=219; Avg=186; Min=152 Do I need to have the dealer check the ion batteries?
 

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2017 Bolt with 50K miles. Fully charged here is the dashboard reading. Max=219; Avg=186; Min=152 Do I need to have the dealer check the ion batteries? I drive 6K miles annually and now with COVID (for the past 4 months) I have only taken short trips to pick up groceries.
 

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2017 Bolt with 50K miles. Fully charged here is the dashboard reading. Max=219; Avg=186; Min=152 Do I need to have the dealer check the ion batteries?
The GOM reading is based on recent driving efficiency. If recent driving was less efficient due to temps, speeds, lead foot, etc, then the GOM reading will be lower. It seems to average the last few cycles of driving in the calculations. So it goes down for a few cycles as colder temps (lower driving efficiency) occur, and slowly creeps back up when warmer temps (higher driving efficiency) occur.
 

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The GOM reading is based on recent driving efficiency. If recent driving was less efficient due to temps, speeds, lead foot, etc, then the GOM reading will be lower. It seems to average the last few cycles of driving in the calculations. So it goes down for a few cycles as colder temps (lower driving efficiency) occur, and slowly creeps back up when warmer temps (higher driving efficiency) occur.
Thanks Rob...I will keep an eye on it. I suppose short trips to the grocery store are not efficient.
 

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Thanks Rob...I will keep an eye on it. I suppose short trips to the grocery store are not efficient.
Maybe, maybe not. Mine is 500 ft lower elevation than my house, so I often arrive at the store with 51.1 miles/kWh on the DIC (the highest reading the Bolt will display). But, it drops like a lead weight not he way home, so typically 4.5 - 5.5 mi/kWh round trip.

It is important to understand the things that contribute to low efficiency. For short trips in colder weather, if you precondition while plugged in, use heated seats and steering (if equipped), your efficiency may be ok even in really cold temps if you don't use the cabin heating.

Over time, I have gotten to the point where based on efficiency on my routine trips to work or shopping, I can estimate within a few miles what the GOM will read the next day at full charge. In the transitions between seasons, it usually takes 2-3 cycles of 100+ miles to settle into a "new norm" on the GOM. Before you get a true sense of this, the GOM drop seems alarming.
 

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2017 Bolt with 50K miles. Fully charged here is the dashboard reading. Max=219; Avg=186; Min=152 Do I need to have the dealer check the ion batteries?
By fully charged you mean 100% SOC, not "hilltop" charge? Hate to always ask, but it is often overlooked. Even at 100% SOC, a middle reading of 186 miles corresponds to 3.4 mi/kWh on our 2017 with ~55 kWh still usable. That is quite plausible, given any HVAC use, without preconditioning while plugged in, before leaving, on short trips. If you have not turned off auto defog, or use the HVAC, the car can use more power raising the cabin temperature 20 degrees, than you will use driving five miles.. What does the trip meter say for mi/kWh? I zero out the trip odometer before every drive.
 

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Yes, fully charged at 100% not "hilltop" charge. However I just set the "hilltop charge"=ON, yesterday...a learning from reading this forum. Not sure what SOC means...but did learn the GOM (Guess O Meter) term...still learning. After a drive to the store and back, here are my dashboard readings:
By fully charged you mean 100% SOC, not "hilltop" charge? Hate to always ask, but it is often overlooked. Even at 100% SOC, a middle reading of 186 miles corresponds to 3.4 mi/kWh on our 2017 with ~55 kWh still usable. That is quite plausible, given any HVAC use, without preconditioning while plugged in, before leaving, on short trips. If you have not turned off auto defog, or use the HVAC, the car can use more power raising the cabin temperature 20 degrees, than you will use driving five miles.. What does the trip meter say for mi/kWh? I zero out the trip odometer before every drive.
 

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