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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a new EV owner and just learning all the lingo and tricks. I bought a 2017 Bolt with 18K miles on it, so don't expect many issues. One thing that concerns/confuses me, however, is the flaky range calculation. So far, I've come across the following:

--I typically lose 2-5 miles before I get to the end of my (very short) driveway. Is this normal?
--When driving, the mileage range often drops several miles within a short distance.
--On a recent short trip, on flat terrain in normal weather, I used 10 miles on my way to my destination and almost 40 miles on the return trip.
--The other night I plugged my car in at home--no level 2 charger, just an outlet. The dash said that I should reach a full charge by 11:45 the next day. I went out at noon and still only had 145 miles.

Are these anomolies typical, or do I have a problem?
Thanks for any responses.
 

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I'm a new EV owner and just learning all the lingo and tricks. I bought a 2017 Bolt with 18K miles on it, so don't expect many issues. One thing that concerns/confuses me, however, is the flaky range calculation. So far, I've come across the following:

--I typically lose 2-5 miles before I get to the end of my (very short) driveway. Is this normal?
--When driving, the mileage range often drops several miles within a short distance.
--On a recent short trip, on flat terrain in normal weather, I used 10 miles on my way to my destination and almost 40 miles on the return trip.
--The other night I plugged my car in at home--no level 2 charger, just an outlet. The dash said that I should reach a full charge by 11:45 the next day. I went out at noon and still only had 145 miles.

Are these anomolies typical, or do I have a problem?
Thanks for any responses.
Welcome to the forum.

The range is an estimate and is displayed on the Guess O' Meter (GOM). Just turning on/off the air conditioner will cause it to change by 20 miles.

On your recent trip, very likely it was the wind that caused the disparity.

If it's very hot outside, the level 1 will be even slower if the battery has to cool itself. The level 1 can't keep up with the energy needed for the cooling and your Bolt will actually use some of the battery to do it. In the winter, some people can't even get the level 1 to provide any charge as the heater uses even more energy than the air conditioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much for your quick response. So you don't think there's anything wrong with my battery? I have a 90-day warranty from the dealer, as well as the balance of the factory warranty, so have some options for fixng things, if necessary.
 

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Are these anomolies typical, or do I have a problem?
Have had a 2017 Bolt for three years and 33K miles. The GOM anomalies you see are very common on short drives. The only way to know the health of your battery, before the 90 days is up, would be to go on a long drive...something many of us would not do during this pandemic. If you feel brave, go to a public level 2 charger, and charge to 100% (make sure you do not have the energy settings charge level set to "hilltop" ~89%), zero out the trip odometer, and drive at least down to 50% charge. The closer you get to empty, the more accurate the capacity test.
 

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--The other night I plugged my car in at home--no level 2 charger, just an outlet. The dash said that I should reach a full charge by 11:45 the next day. I went out at noon and still only had 145 miles.

Are these anomolies typical, or do I have a problem?
Thanks for any responses.
Regarding the Dash and time to finish charging: it displays the TIME OF DAY it will finish charging, but doesn't actually tell you what day it pertains to. A programming flaw IMO.
so your 11:45 time could be the second day from when it started.

The OEM charger will take 2 days generally to go from 0 to 100%; so, depending on how much % of battery you were charging, it could easily take 36 hours or more. Keep that in mind.
If you have a solid plug you are using that can handle continuous 12Amps, there is a setting in the infotainment charging options to change the draw from 8A to 12A that will charge a little faster. It always defaults back to 8 amps randomly though, so you have to keep your eye on it before you start the charge. Also, just check your outlet after a couple hours if you go to 12 amps to ensure it isnt getting hot. Warm is ok, but it shouldnt get hot or you will want to leave it at 8 amps.

And yes as stated above, the miles of range fluctuates a lot depending on recent driving patterns; You'll get used to it.
% of battery and the avg Mi/kwh is a better mental estimate to go by IMO if you are concerned about range on a trip.
There is a screen in the infotainment charging area that shows the last 50 miles or so of driving and how much you are averaging every 5 miles. I take a peek at that screen too. Just more info as you get used to what the car is doing.

To test Battery; as stated above, charge to full and then drive a good distance you can measure by. Say, stop at 50% on the Guess-O-Meter; the green bars, not the miles (theoretically that should be about half your battery on average, although there is a small reserve not included). If you go into the Infortainment and look at the screen that says how many KHW used since the last full charge, that should be somewhere around half the usable battery if you charged it to 100% (no hilltop reserve) and stopped halfway. It wont be exact, but it is enough to tell you if the battery is OK or not during your trial period.
 

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...go on a long drive...something many of us would not do during this pandemic...
The virus spreads through inter-personal contact, not through driving. Just be careful to plan ahead so that you don't run out of juice, or bring some alcohol wipes or spray with you in case you need to use a public charger.
 

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The virus spreads through inter-personal contact, not through driving. Just be careful to plan ahead so that you don't run out of juice, or bring some alcohol wipes or spray with you in case you need to use a public charger.
Yeah. No thanks. There is no safe way to plan for a breakdown, or worst a wreck.
 

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Yeah. No thanks. There is no safe way to plan for a breakdown, or worst a wreck.
I guess my risk assessment differs from you. I've been driving for over 40 years, many of those in far more cantankerous vehicles, and have never needed a tow. I've been in a couple of fender benders, which I guess puts the chances having another one over the next year at something like 1 in 20. But I keep a mask in my car and for the brief amount of time I'd need to stand outdoors in the general vicinity of someone else to exchange information I'm not particularly concerned. Risk is proportional to closeness times duration, so short, prudent exchanges don't overly concern me. If they did, I'd have difficulty buying groceries.

As far as serious accidents of the degree that might require an ambulance, if I was really worried about that kind of risk it would be the accident itself that would dissuade me from driving, not the chance of catching the coronavirus as a result.
 

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I guess my risk assessment differs from you.
I think the difference is that you may enjoy getting in your car to drive around. I look at our car as a way to get to do things, like going to some event or a restaurant...not doing any of that now.
 

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I think the difference is that you may enjoy getting in your car to drive around. I look at our car as a way to get to do things, like going to some event or a restaurant...not doing any of that now.
Ah, yes - that makes a lot of sense. I do enjoy driving, especially in the Bolt - it's such a responsive and willing car. If the OP wants to assess his battery, though, I wouldn't think that the coronavirus should stop him.
 

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If the OP wants to assess his battery, though, I wouldn't think that the coronavirus should stop him.
Yes. A range test to determine battery capacity is something I would do if we had just gotten ours. Such a test can easily be done without driving 119 miles from home, and returning. I will wager a circular route would require driving no more than 75.8 miles from home. :cool:

And you'd only be 28.7329 miles from home to drive the shortest circular route and get to 238 miles in one lap, driving straight out to the edge of the circle, and back.
 

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While what everyone is saying is true, if you're only seeing 145 miles at 100% (was it actually finished at 100% at noon?) some have reported having their battery replaced under warranty after similar drops in range. Best to drive it 100% to 5% and see how many kwh are reported on the since last full charge screen.
 

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Out of curiosity, if you used 50% of your battery, do you get 100-120 miles of range (distance traveled, not range remaining)? I would be concerned if I got less than 100 miles on a half tank in typical use. Going one way into the wind or up hill might be a reason for getting less range.

Unless it's changed, the 120v charger defaults to 8 amps (~1 KW). You can override that to 12 amps, but you'd have to do that every time you charge. Depending on your situation, you can use the stock charger with 240v (Thread on 240v OEM). This can be dangerous - so be careful. I made an adapter to use my stock charger on 240v and it defaults to 12 amps and ~3 KW. Very rarely can I not get a full charge over night.
 

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Unless it's changed, the 120v charger defaults to 8 amps (~1 KW). You can override that to 12 amps, but you'd have to do that every time you charge.
If you enable "location based charging" then you can set the default 120V charge rate to 12A for whatever location you designate as "home". But you have to refresh it every 6 months.
 
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