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Read this before programming a second keyfob, if you only have one

25K views 37 replies 26 participants last post by  petesr129 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

The Bolt I bought only came with one key/fob/transmitter, and I had 2 extra fobs from a Volt that were identical, so I figured I'd try the programming instructions in the manual when only 1 fob is present. After some hassle, here are the things that I have learned that I'd like to post here for posterity:

-You can only do this with a NEW (never programmed before), genuine OEM Chevy key fob. If it's been programmed to another car, it won't work without being reflashed, and that's not something you can do without dealer tools. I also tried a new aftermarket fob and it didn't work, so save your time. I'm sure some aftermarket ones may work, but not being successful is a pain once you start, so just get a new OEM fob online.

-Make sure that the FCC ID on the key is the same (HYQ4AA), even if the button layout is different. I used a key from an Equinox because it was the cheapest I could find a new Chevy key ($50 shipped on eBay). It has a useless trunk release button but that doesn't bother me.

-I tried doing the 30 minute procedure with the door open (while I was doing other things), and as soon as it got to the 30-minute mark, it shut off. Not sure if it was a glitch, but I was able to successfully complete it sitting in the car the whole time with the door closed. I saw another member said opening the door resets the timer, so just plan on being in the car the whole time.

-The first 2 times I tried the procedure (used Chevy key and then new aftermarket key), the 2nd remote wouldn't program, and exiting programming mode wasn't effective. Holding down the start button for 12 seconds would allow me to temporarily exit programming mode and start the car, but it wouldn't permanently exit. Another member said that failing to exit the programming mode also caused his 12V battery to drain, so make sure to keep your car plugged in regularly if you get stuck in this phase while waiting for a key.

-If you get stuck waiting for the 2nd remote to program because you didn't have the correct key, and you're panicking because your car won't start, just hold down the start button for 12 seconds until the dash shuts down (maybe do some deep breathing while you hold it down). After this, you can press the button again to start the car, and you'll have a "Theft Deterrent System" service message on the dash. This won't go away until you successfully program another remote and exit programming mode.

-If you spend a week waiting for a new key driving around with the Theft Deterrent icon on and you finally get your new key...you can just program it without having to go through the procedure again...it stays ready to program :)

I hope this saves someone some time/frustration!

-Neal
 
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#2 ·
#4 ·
Adding another data point, I've programmed three (3) additional FOBs for our 2019 Bolt (I keep the OEM FOBs safe in the house. One FOB is hidden in the Bolt, just in case...).
Yep, belt and suspenders! I have four fobs altogether - one for each driver, one secreted away on the car as an emergency backup if I loose the fob while I'm on the road (which I actually had to use once), and one kept at home.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I recently acquired a 2017 Bolt Premier that was missing a key fob. Like RichCapeCod I ordered a fob from Car and Truck Remotes. Unlike RichCapeCod I ordered the aftermarket version instead of OEM, now I'm in exactly the situation described by nsherman2006.

To be fair, the invoice for my remote states that it must be programmed by a car locksmith or dealership. But without any clarifying information ("What's the physical difference between the two?", and "Why would I buy a remote online if I then have to take it to a dealer?") it was easy to write it off as an overstatement (maybe they were referring to cutting the key?) or just misinformation. It was apparently neither.

Based on this discussion I'll return the aftermarket fob and order an OEM fob. I was already thinking of returning it because three of the four buttons lack any tactile feedback, I wonder if they even work. Mechanically, it's inferior to my existing OEM fob.

This was a really helpful discussion, thanks for posting.

Update: I spoke with customer service at Car and Truck Remotes. According to this one person:
  • There is no difference between the OEM and after-market fobs from a programming perspective
  • They recommend having a dealer or locksmith do the programming in either case, even though there are plenty of sites with DIY programming instructions.
  • Some fobs may work with the in-car programming instructions, some may not, it's "random".
  • The consequences of getting the programming wrong might be a tow to the dealer. Per nsherman2006 and my experience I don't think its as bad as all that, but that's what I was told.
I suspect the above isn't the whole story and that I'd get a slightly different answer from a different person at Car and Truck Remotes. But at this point I see the following options:
  1. For $118 my Chevy dealer says they might be able to program the $42 after-market fob I currently have. This includes cutting the key.
  2. Exchange my after-market fob for a another after-market fob and hope this one programs properly
  3. Return my after-market fob and purchase an OEM fob from Car and Truck Remotes for $89.95. And hope I get lucky with programming this one.
  4. Purchase a fob from Chevy and have them program it. $159.24 for the fob plus $118 for up to 2 hours of labor in their shop. Peterson Chevrolet in Boise, ID.​
  5. Purchase an OEM fob from either source and have a locksmith program it. I called a couple, was quoted $50 for the job, but didn't get a warm feeling about the programming part.​
I guess I'll drive around in "Theft Deterrent" mode until I can roll the dice again with option 3.

Update: Maybe it is "as bad as all that":

After successfully driving around for several days in Theft Deterrent mode, occasionally having to do a 12-second long press and then a short press of the power button to get the car to start, occasionally triggering the theft alarm and frantically trying to get it to turn off by randomly pressing buttons on the fob, occasionally getting texts and emails from OnStar warning that my car may have been stolen, I returned to the Bolt after work to find it completely dead. The 12V battery that is, the drive battery was close to the Hilltop Reserve setpoint where I'd left it. But of course the car wouldn't "start", now I know what it means to jump start an electric vehicle. The 7 hour (or so) period that the car was parked at work was the only time since this key fiasco began that the car wasn't either plugged in to the OEM charger or being driven. Either Theft Deterrent mode messes with the car's ability to maintain the 12V battery or the original battery is dying. The former would be a serious design flaw and the latter would be a serious coincidence.

I shouldn't be too surprised. Our 2006 Prius has a similar problem managing the 12V battery, having stranded us several times with a 12V battery that was nowhere near its expected lifetime. A jump always got us going again. Guess I'd better add jumper cables to the list of Tools to Carry.

Update: 12V Battery checked out OK at Les Schwab (regional tire dealership). Same story whenever this happened with our Prius.

(hopefully final) Update: Option 3 (OEM fob) worked, as we all knew it would.

My car had been waiting for the second fob since this mess began, it took maybe 5 seconds to program it. At that point the "Theft Deterrent" warning and dashboard light in the instrument cluster went away. Locking/unlocking the car went back to normal. I made it through half a day parked at work without needing a jump. I did get a nostalgic final round of theft warnings from OnStar, by phone, email, and text.

This OEM fob from Car and Truck Remotes differs from their after-market fob in four important ways:
  1. The back isn't blank-- it has the Chevy logo and a sticker with a QR code.
  2. All buttons have a nice mechanical "click" when pressed. The after-market fob had a weird alignment problem that messed this up for most of the buttons.
  3. It cost $89.95 vs $39.95
  4. It can be programmed by end-customers (at least this one could), contrary to what is stated on the packaging for both fobs and what I was told by their customer support.
33211

I hope never to go through this again. But if I do:
  • I won't waste my time with the after-market remote. And if I did somehow wind up with one I certainly wouldn't try to program it myself. I never want to see "Theft Deterrent" mode again unless someone is actually stealing my car.​
  • I'll ask for about $300 off any used car that doesn't have both remotes and just get a replacement from the dealer.​
  • I probably won't use Car and Truck Remotes. They were responsive and courteous enough but I'm not fond of businesses that don't bother to articulate important details about the products they sell. Or in this case provide completely contradictory information. Instead I'd look into a service like robhouston suggested that provides the remote and cuts the key all via mail. I still have to find someone to cut the key on my remote...​
Final Final Update: I finally got the blank key cut. $10 at the local Chevy dealership.
 
#8 ·
You can read my saga here about trying to program the "aftermarket" remote from CarandTruckRemotes.com: Problem Programming 3rd Key Fob | Chevy Bolt EV Forum

I got the same story as you----"it's the same as the OEM remotes", but it's clearly not. The bottom line is that these aftermarket remotes are either defective or not fully flashed to be ready for programming.
I bought my fob from Car and Truck remotes and it worked just fine. This is the one I bought. It appears identical to the two fobs which were delivered with the car, right down to the little QR code sticker.

Which one did you buy?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Yeah I think their definition of "ready to program" doesn't mean that the key is ready for self-programming.
I believe the issue is that different manufacturers and even different models from the same manufacture use different radio frequency protocols, and that these "aftermarket" remotes need to first be configured to use the right protocol. If they're not configured, then the car just doesn't see them. Configuring would involve using a special programming device that we mere mortals don't have.

In the electronics world (the one that's not involved with computers) the word "programming" refers to this kind of initial configuration to take a universal device and make it work in a specific way. Unfortunately a lot of Bolt owners assume that "programming" means pairing the key with the car, which is actually a later step.

For all I know, the only difference between the "aftermarket" and "OEM" key fobs is that the latter have already been programmed to work with the Bolt's protocols. That would make sense because it's cheaper to manufacture millions of universal fobs and program them for specific cars than it is to custom manufacture many different variants of them. It could be that the little QR code sticker that comes on the remote from the factory is saying "programmed for the Chevy Bolt".

All of this is true of TPMS sensors too, which is why I included them on my list of parts to be careful about.
 
#14 ·
Hi all,

The Bolt I bought only came with one key/fob/transmitter, and I had 2 extra fobs from a Volt that were identical, so I figured I'd try the programming instructions in the manual when only 1 fob is present. After some hassle, here are the things that I have learned that I'd like to post here for posterity:

-You can only do this with a NEW (never programmed before), genuine OEM Chevy key fob. If it's been programmed to another car, it won't work without being reflashed, and that's not something you can do without dealer tools. I also tried a new aftermarket fob and it didn't work, so save your time. I'm sure some aftermarket ones may work, but not being successful is a pain once you start, so just get a new OEM fob online.
Pretty sure you can program a key fob to work with a different vehicle, lots of folks use the same key fob for multiple vehicles. I had planned to do that with my Volt and my Bolt until I found out that they don't use the same frequency.

The Volt Key Fobs use 433MHZ and the Bolt uses 315MHZ, there is no way to use a key fob with the wrong frequency.
Same goes for aftermarket fobs, you need to buy one that uses the right frequency for your vehicle.
 
#16 · (Edited)
We somehow "lost" one of our fobs in the past few months for our new 2020 Premier. So I ordered a new remote (OEM - I didn't want to risk any issues) from this company: northcoastkeyless.com

Worked quite well. I used the 1-remote method. Thus, it forgot all remotes and I had to reprogram the original" remote, along with the 2nd remote. The only major issue in the process was seeing the OnStar notice that my car was broken into after I was done. I called OnStar to cancel the alarm notice and let them know it was just me programming my new remote.

North Coast Keyless had fast shipping and the step-by-step instructions on programming on their website for each of the remotes they sell. 2020 Chevrolet Bolt Keyless Entry Remote Fob Programming Instructions - NorthCoast Keyless

(I also had my user-manual out from the glovebox turned to page 13 on how to program the remotes as well.)

We now have 2 working remotes. I just need to get the 2nd one cut. (My local ACE Hardware refused to do it unless they ordered it, which was over $30. I will try the dealer first, and then a locksmith.

If we ever find the "lost" one, I'll reprogram all 3 and keep a spare at a trusted friend's house so they can drive it out to us if ever needed.
 
#17 ·
Just to add my own experience here. I ended up buying 2 cheap "OEM" remotes and 1 genuine one (~$70). Neither of the two "OEM" ones worked, and caused the the theft prevention system to be activated, once I got the genuine remote it worked immediately. Lesson learned with these fobs. My local ace hardware cut the new key for $30.
 
#19 ·
I purchased two of these I only have one fob that came with the my 2017 premier. I had to program the long way. The car wouldn’t recognize the aftermarket fobs. After hours of trying I was able to get the car to recognize the fobs by constantly moving the fob around the placeholder before they were finally recognized. They work like a charm and the quality of the key is great. Now I gotta get the keys cut…
 
#20 ·
Just for the record, I went (11/21/2022) to my 2021 Bolt-selling Chevy dealer and bought an OEM key fob for a discounted (... as the car's buyer?) $105 (list $142) and a cut-key for $50, marked down from (list $62.99.) I don't see any reason to go to Ebay and risk having somebody's Brother-in-law cut the key wrong, and sell me a fob that might not work. This was in HCOL Bergen County, New Jersey.
 
#21 ·
Like several folks above, I was in a similar dilemma after buying a used 2017 Bolt Premier. It came with only a single key fob. I had a spare, used key fob from my son's 2017 Bolt (wrecked, long story). I decided to try to re-program it for the new, used Bolt but it didn't work and I was left in the dreaded "Theft Deterrent" mode. I ordered an aftermarket key fob after being told a new key fob from the local Chevy dealer would be ~$150! Ouch. The aftermarket key fob description says it is compatible with the Chevrolet Bolt even though the Amazon web site notification at the top of the entry says it "does not fit" the 2017 Bolt. I ordered it anyway and was dismayed to find it would not program/link to the car and I was still in the Theft Deterrent mode. Ready to send the thing back to Amazon, I did more reading and saw the post above by SpaceCar. Inspired to try again, I was successful after moving the key fob to various locations around the designated spot in the bottom of the center console (see figure). I am also including a rough location for the new key fob when the programming worked. Bottom line, don't give up on programming an aftermarket key fob without trying different locations in the console. I assume the "antenna" sensitivity is position dependant and different for the aftermarket units compared to the OEM key fobs.
Automotive side-view mirror Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Sleeve
Automotive lighting Automotive side-view mirror Hood Grille Motor vehicle
 
#28 ·
to the OEM key fobs.
Thank you, thank you!!! I wish I had read this days ago...I got stranded yesterday when I was stuck in programming/theft deterrent mode....I couldn't start the car! I had given up and then read this thread about not giving up. I tried rotating the new fob 90 degrees like your picture and it worked!!! I have 2 working key fobs, I was able to exit programming mode and the theft deterrent indicator turned off.
 
#22 ·
Since this thread has been resurrected, I thought I'd chime in. I too just bought a used Bolt (2019 Bolt EV Premier) and only got one fob with it. I've been lurking around this board for a long time now, and knew enough to do the research. Based on the info in this thread I found a seller on eBay to buy a "virgin" OEM fob from, who also does a key cutting service based on a photo of an existing key. Total package including key cutting was around $85 total.

I tried the "only have one fob" procedure outlined in the manual and it worked perfectly on the first try. I now have two perfectly working key fobs. I also tested the newly cut key and it works great. Although the poster above managed to get their aftermarket fob programmed (and I'm glad for them), the aftermarket fobs seem to be a bit of a gamble. A "real" OEM fob is not that much more expensive than the aftermarket, and for me the peace of mind was easily worth it.

The eBay vendor I used: OEM CHEVY VOLT BOLT TRAX SONIC EQUINOX SMART KEY PROXIMITY REMOTE FOB 13585722 | eBay Make sure to get the separate key cutting service as well - it's mentioned in the listing along with the correct link for the service.
 
#23 ·
I will add to my previous post that I also ordered an OEM key fob with the assurance it was programmable (just in case the aftermarket key fob never worked). It arrived today and I added it as the third paired key fob using the instructions on pages 36-37 of the Bolt User Manual. Worked like a charm. Now I have a key fob I can store in the car with the mechanical key (once it is cut) in a hidden exterior spot. As suggested by in other posts, I will store the coin cell battery (2032) separately from the key fob. No need to confuse the Bolt... Now to find the perfect "hiding place" for the mechanical key... That, and hope I never have to use it.
 
#24 ·
Hi all,

The Bolt I bought only came with one key/fob/transmitter, and I had 2 extra fobs from a Volt that were identical, so I figured I'd try the programming instructions in the manual when only 1 fob is present. After some hassle, here are the things that I have learned that I'd like to post here for posterity:

-You can only do this with a NEW (never programmed before), genuine OEM Chevy key fob. If it's been programmed to another car, it won't work without being reflashed, and that's not something you can do without dealer tools. I also tried a new aftermarket fob and it didn't work, so save your time. I'm sure some aftermarket ones may work, but not being successful is a pain once you start, so just get a new OEM fob online.

-Make sure that the FCC ID on the key is the same (HYQ4AA), even if the button layout is different. I used a key from an Equinox because it was the cheapest I could find a new Chevy key ($50 shipped on eBay). It has a useless trunk release button but that doesn't bother me......

.........-I tried doing the 30 minute procedure with the door open (while I was doing other things), and :)

I hope this saves someone some time/frustration!

-Neal
Another FOB programming gotch'ya that got me:
When I had my 2021 Bolt I got a new fob purchased and programmed the not-so-cheap way.
Purchased a fob through special order a local locksmith... had him program it. Everything fine... except total cost close to $300 IIRR.
When I turned in the 2021 for a 2023 I kept one of the genuine GM fobs as a third for my 2023.
Dealer service said they could not reprogram it for my 2023.
Locksmith said "maybe, bring it in."
After popping it open and examining said , essentially, "no go. they've changed the frequency" or something like that.
Fobs for prior to 2022, whether genuine OEM GM or third party , won't work on 2022 or later. Not DIY or professional.
 
#25 ·
OnStar note: if you have OnStar (I'm still in my free trial period) this learning process will trigger a theft alert. In my case, they both texted and e-mailed an alert telling me that a new fob was programmed and that my car MIGHT be getting stolen. A link was included in both alerts to cancel the alarm - I did so of course. Reading the fine print, OnStar says that they do NOT call the police - it's just a note in their system to treat the car as "potentially stolen" until the owner cancels the alert via the provided link. I don't know what happens if you DON'T have OnStar - presumably nothing, but maybe something gets flagged somewhere in some system? Might come back to haunt you later and you may have some 'splaining to do if you ever activate those services later down the road. Just something to be aware of when you do this procedure.
 
#26 ·
Hi all,

The Bolt I bought only came with one key/fob/transmitter, and I had 2 extra fobs from a Volt that were identical, so I figured I'd try the programming instructions in the manual when only 1 fob is present. After some hassle, here are the things that I have learned that I'd like to post here for posterity:

-You can only do this with a NEW (never programmed before), genuine OEM Chevy key fob. If it's been programmed to another car, it won't work without being reflashed, and that's not something you can do without dealer tools. I also tried a new aftermarket fob and it didn't work, so save your time. I'm sure some aftermarket ones may work, but not being successful is a pain once you start, so just get a new OEM fob online.

-Make sure that the FCC ID on the key is the same (HYQ4AA), even if the button layout is different. I used a key from an Equinox because it was the cheapest I could find a new Chevy key ($50 shipped on eBay). It has a useless trunk release button but that doesn't bother me.

-I tried doing the 30 minute procedure with the door open (while I was doing other things), and as soon as it got to the 30-minute mark, it shut off. Not sure if it was a glitch, but I was able to successfully complete it sitting in the car the whole time with the door closed more info. I saw another member said opening the door resets the timer, so just plan on being in the car the whole time.

-The first 2 times I tried the procedure (used Chevy key and then new aftermarket key), the 2nd remote wouldn't program, and exiting programming mode wasn't effective. Holding down the start button for 12 seconds would allow me to temporarily exit programming mode and start the car, but it wouldn't permanently exit. Another member said that failing to exit the programming mode also caused his 12V battery to drain, so make sure to keep your car plugged in regularly if you get stuck in this phase while waiting for a key.

-If you get stuck waiting for the 2nd remote to program because you didn't have the correct key, and you're panicking because your car won't start, just hold down the start button for 12 seconds until the dash shuts down (maybe do some deep breathing while you hold it down). After this, you can press the button again to start the car, and you'll have a "Theft Deterrent System" service message on the dash. This won't go away until you successfully program another remote and exit programming mode.

-If you spend a week waiting for a new key driving around with the Theft Deterrent icon on and you finally get your new key...you can just program it without having to go through the procedure again...it stays ready to program :)

I hope this saves someone some time/frustration!

-Neal
Lately I've been having several minor inconveniences with the key fob which is rather annoying. First, sometimes I go to open the door, and the car doesn't sense the key on my person, and won't unlock the door. It's random, I have the key fob in the same place every time, and sometimes the doors unlock, and sometimes it doesn't. I then have to manually open the doors with the button. Doesn't ever happen if I open the trunk first, only if I go to the (driver) door.
Second, randomly when I go to start the car, I get a pop up saying key fob not sensed, something something car won't work, but it doesn't seem to actually do anything, and the car operates as normal. Again, happens randomly, and fob is always in the same place.

Third, I have the setting to automatically lock the car when I walk away, but again, sometimes this does not work, and I walk away with the doors unlocked. This one is also random, but of all the key fob issues, this one happens by far the most, probably half the time.

Anyone know what I can do to solve these issues, or what the actual problem is?
 
#27 ·
Based on the symptoms you described, I think it's possible that your battery in the fob is failing. Or it could be a "garbage" battery - the market is flooded with cheap garbage no-name batteries these days (think Amazon specials) that are often glitchy or faulty right out of the brand new package. If I was in your situation, I would try replacing the battery in the fob with a known GOOD battery. Go down to your favorite electronics source - Best Buy, Target, wherever - and pick up a good brand-name battery like Energizer or Duracell with the farthest out expiration date you can find. Yes, it will be expensive. Then give it a go with this fresh battery and see what happens.

You didn't mention whether your fob is GM OEM or an aftermarket unit. If it's aftermarket, that could play into this as well. While some folks do fine with the aftermarket fobs (and more power to them) some have lots of trouble with the aftermarket units. If your fob does NOT have the Chevy "bowtie" logo on it then it is highly likely to be an aftermarket unit. You may want to look into getting a genuine OEM fob if that turns out to be your situation.
 
#31 ·
Thank you all for the tips! I had the same situation (received just one key fob when buying a used 2020 Bolt from a dealer), and successfully programmed a new OEM fob ordered from Ebay. I wanted to add my notes to your great tips above:

1. The instructions at Northcoastkeyless.com were very clear and informative (link removed due to moderation rules)

2. Having just one programmed fob meant I had to use the 30-min procedure for "without programmed remote". This was a surprise to me, though perhaps it should not have been.

3. Like others, I also found that going in and out of the car via the driver's door during the wait steps caused the process to cancel after the 3rd 10-minute wait step. When I tried again, I sat in the car the whole time with the doors closed, and everything worked fine. I suggest bringing something to do and opening the windows first for fresh air.

4. I programmed the new OEM fob first, and then saw the screen say "Ready for Remote #2". Therefore I (re-)programmed the original fob too. I'm not sure whether it was necessary to "program" the second fob, but based on another post on this forum, it might have been. Later, both fobs worked, so it doesn't seem to have hurt.

5. After exiting the programming mode, I tried starting the vehicle immediately. That may have been a mistake, because the screen said "no remote detected" and instructed me to put a fob back in the transmitter pocket to start the car. I did that and the car started, but I think what I should have done was just turned everything off, then gotten out of the vehicle. Once I did that and tested both fobs to lock/unlock the car from the outside, they both worked fine, including to start the car once I got back in.
 
#33 ·
Hi Neal, for clarification do you have a 2021 Chevi Bolt? I ask because I have read that some successful solutions only work for Bolts up to 2019 or 2020.

Thanks.
I believe the frequencies may have changed, but the process is probably unchanged. Be sure to buy the correct part for your model year.
 
#36 ·

Well, I may be unique, but the reason I only had one FOB was that, despite the fact that it shouldn't be possible, I was able to start my car with the FOB on the roof of my 2023 EUV!

I drove off to a friend's house, quite inconveniently about 60 miles from my home. When I arrived and turned off the car, it noted that there was no key available. I was stuck until another friend delivered my spare (and then my only, FOB).

Two dealerships gave me 2 prices for new FOB + programming – ~$380 and ~$500. I decided to order a FOB and try to program it (got mine from Remotes and Keys for $106 incl tax+delivery). They provided easy to follow instructions (see image - it's also in the manual, but this was easy for me to follow).

The advice that I would give is, drive to a Chevrolet dealership and do it in the parking lot in case you fail. Then at least, you don't need to get towed to a dealership.
 
#37 ·
Well, I may be unique, but the reason I only had one FOB was that, despite the fact that it shouldn't be possible, I was able to start my car with the FOB on the roof of my 2023 EUV!

I drove off to a friend's house, quite inconveniently about 60 miles from my home. When I arrived and turned off the car, it noted that there was no key available. I was stuck until another friend delivered my spare (and then my only, FOB).

Two dealerships gave me 2 prices for new FOB + programming – ~$380 and ~$500. I decided to order a FOB and try to program it (got mine from Remotes and Keys for $106 incl tax+delivery). They provided easy to follow instructions (see image - it's also in the manual, but this was easy for me to follow).

The advice that I would give is, drive to a Chevrolet dealership and do it in the parking lot in case you fail. Then at least, you don't need to get towed to a dealership.
That you lost one of two FOBs is why, even though my new EUV came with 2 FOBs, I bought another for $20 and programmed it. I have never lost a FOB for any car, but if I do lose the Bolt FOB, there will be no hardship and no high cost.
 
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