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Discussion Starter #1
What kind of tool is needed to remove the front large plastic license plate holder? Not needed in PA.
 

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Screwdriver, Phillips head if I remember correctly. After you remove whatever plate the dealer has attached, you will see four small screws holding the plastic plate holder. Remove the screws et voila! I put the screws back in my front end to keep the holes plugged.
 

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Mine came with the factory install kit, which included cherry rivets, so yours may be riveted on.
You'll have to drill the rivets out if that's the case.
 

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Had a very minor fender bender and told body shop and insurance it didn't need to be replaced. Lower grill is $ 268 where plate holder is mounted. Somewhere in here is info on other options. Looks so much better without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, mine has the rivets. I guess the trick is to drill out the rivet without going in too far and hitting the car.
 

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If you are in California, do not remove the front license plate or it's holder. A front license plate is required by law in California. Some people tuck the plate inside the windshield: this is also illegal. Covering the plate (front or rear) with a transparent cover is also illegal in California.
 

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If you are in California, do not remove the front license plate or it's holder. A front license plate is required by law in California. Some people tuck the plate inside the windshield: this is also illegal. Covering the plate (front or rear) with a transparent cover is also illegal in California.
I saw on these forums that a company is marketing vinyl license plate stickers and they purport that California drivers can legally place them on their front bumpers, wondering if it is indeed legal? It's too late for me, as the front plate is welded to the bumper already.
 

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Mine didn't come with one, my last car a Buick Encore had one that was installed by the dealer he drilled 4 holes in my bumper I took it off but had 4 1/8" holes.

From close up I could see the holes, but the car looked so much better without a plate bracket, I didn't mind the holes.

If they are held on with rivets you can drill out the center of the rivet then the back of it will fall off then you can pull off the bracket.

You can also dremel off the head using a dremel stone head tool, just be careful use plenty of duct tape around the area, if you slip off you can hit the bumper and cause damage the duct tape layers will help protect the area.
 

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Surprised no one has yet mentioned removing the front plate and holder will improve the Cd by .000239 and increase range by .57 miles. ;>)

And yes, in states were front plates are required, one can drive many vehicles for many years without problems. BTDT. It's usually the State Police who will get hostile about the lack and then only if they stop it for another offense. However, if they want to make a point, the fines are high enough to cause some pain.

Jack Vines
 

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In the dozen or so years I have run no front plate the only two tickets I have received were from the City of Denver parking meter maids. I just don't park in a public parking space anymore.
 
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It sounds like Colorado also requires front plates. I know that Arizona does NOT require front plates - and probably doesn't even issue them.
 

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Our dealer installed plate box/thingy was mounted with only two screws at the centerline. Made for a low drag, fairly inconspicuous plate installation.
 

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Removed Front License Plate Holder in PA

In PA, no front license plate is required. I got my Bolt in MD, where the front plate is required and the Dealers install them as part of initial prep when cars are delivered from the factory.

Mine came with a big, honkin', black plastic front plate holder with a plastic dealer advertisement plate- which both spoiled the look of the front end for me. So I removed it and plugged the holes.

The linked photos show the steps in case it helps anyone else that wants to get rid of their front plate holder.

The first shot shows the soft metal rivets that can't be removed with a tool- they just spin if you try to unscrew them. So I had to drill then out carefully. A 1/4" bit right down the middle did the trick and the rivets fell apart easily and the holder fell off, leaving 4 holes to fill

To plug the holes I picked-up 4 solid black plastic 1/4-inch "car panel fasteners" at Ace Hardware and then coated them about 8 times (with light sanding during the first 5 or so coats) with Zar outdoor polyurethane spray. Light coats are always the trick with spray paints and lots of hours of drying over a couple of days was required.

When the plugs had a good, thick shine to them (to match the shine of the Bolt's nose fascia), I pushed them into the holes, letting the mounting ridges on the plugs do the work securing them.

A little clean-up and done. Although having to use plugs is a bit of an eyesore, and YMMV, I like the look of them much better than the big plastic plate holder. With the holder gone the nose of the Bolt is much closer to the look the designers intended- with a nice broad point.

Hopefully the plugs hold-up. They're solid plastic and can't rust and they fit very securely. But there's no glue involved and I could remove and replace them pretty easily if I need to or if I find something better in the future.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/29xa4bTjFQ6uwVzL8
 
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