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I need to replace my taillight assembly. The dealer wants $150 for the service charge. 4 bolts to replace the assembly. 3 are very easy to find. The 4th seems to be under the molding on the lift gate. Anyone know how to remove or pop off the lift gate molding. Jim
 

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No advice for Jim until he explains why he needs to replace his tail light assembly. Lol. (sorry, I don't have an answer for you)
 

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I damaged / cracked the rear taillight assembly on my new Bolt. I had a promotion deal that provided me with $200 off of the replacement part. I have the new taillight assembly. I like to do as much repair work within my skill level. The removal and replacement of the taillight does not look very difficult, 4 studs with 8 mm nuts. 3 studs are visible on the back side of the lift gate, the 4th is under the panel trim on the inside of the lift gate. I need some instructions to remove the panel trim to expose the 4th stud. Thanks, Jim
 

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I damaged / cracked the rear taillight assembly on my new Bolt. I had a promotion deal that provided me with $200 off of the replacement part. I have the new taillight assembly. I like to do as much repair work within my skill level. The removal and replacement of the taillight does not look very difficult, 4 studs with 8 mm nuts. 3 studs are visible on the back side of the lift gate, the 4th is under the panel trim on the inside of the lift gate. I need some instructions to remove the panel trim to expose the 4th stud. Thanks, Jim
I can't give you exact instructions as I have never done what you're doing and I don't have the service manual, but I have worked on a lot of cars for nearly 40 years. What you likely need to do is get a set of plastic trim and panel removal tools if you don't have them already. Something like this-

https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Tool-pcs-Upholstery/dp/B00LUPOSD4

Look for any screws that might hold the back panel on first and remove them. Sometimes they are hidden underneath caps and covers that need to be removed by prying them off with a tiny blade screwdriver. Once you are certain all screws, or retaining nuts have been removed, start prying with your plastic pry tools and the rear panel will start to pop loose. It is likely held in place with a number of plastic clips and possibly some adhesive.

Don't be alarmed if some of these clips break in the process. Many times they are reusable, but sometimes you just have to break them to get the panel off. They are expendable, can easily and cheaply be replaced. The main thing is to not damage the panel, or the lift gate. There may also be a plastic moisture barrier under the back panel, if so, just peel it back and when you're done putting in the new tail light, just stick it back.

Again, I have not done this job, nor do I have the service manual. I really don't know what you'll find, but this is what I would expect to find based on years of experience. When you get in there, take a few pictures and post them up here! That's how forums like these can really help the next guy. Unfortunately, you seem to be going first. ;)
 

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Thanks for the response. I have already ordered a set of plastic trim removal tools after watching some videos on YouTube.
 

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I can't give you exact instructions as I have never done what you're doing and I don't have the service manual, but I have worked on a lot of cars for nearly 40 years. What you likely need to do is get a set of plastic trim and panel removal tools if you don't have them already. Something like this-

https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Tool-pcs-Upholstery/dp/B00LUPOSD4

Look for any screws that might hold the back panel on first and remove them. Sometimes they are hidden underneath caps and covers that need to be removed by prying them off with a tiny blade screwdriver. Once you are certain all screws, or retaining nuts have been removed, start prying with your plastic pry tools and the rear panel will start to pop loose. It is likely held in place with a number of plastic clips and possibly some adhesive.

Don't be alarmed if some of these clips break in the process. Many times they are reusable, but sometimes you just have to break them to get the panel off. They are expendable, can easily and cheaply be replaced. The main thing is to not damage the panel, or the lift gate. There may also be a plastic moisture barrier under the back panel, if so, just peel it back and when you're done putting in the new tail light, just stick it back.

Again, I have not done this job, nor do I have the service manual. I really don't know what you'll find, but this is what I would expect to find based on years of experience. When you get in there, take a few pictures and post them up here! That's how forums like these can really help the next guy. Unfortunately, you seem to be going first. ;)
Hmm...looks like that tool can be used to remove the interior dome light covers? I've hesitated trying to remove the front dome lights due to fear of breaking them.
 

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I love trim removal tools haha. I used to find excuses to use them all the time and you notice how much better they are then flat head screwdrivers and microfibers lmao
 

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So, is it easy enough to remove the interior trim? And once removed, is it easy enough to remove and replace the taillight assembly? I'm hoping that I can fix this one myself as well.
 

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So, is it easy enough to remove the interior trim? And once removed, is it easy enough to remove and replace the taillight assembly? I'm hoping that I can fix this one myself as well.
Good luck, but that aside, User name of the decade.
 

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Since moskusjm never followed up with success or failure stories, I'll share mine since I just completed replacing the taillight.

Removing the interior trim isn't terribly difficult. It would be easier with the trim removal tools, but I was able to get it partly by hand and partly with standard pry bars. There's only one screw, a torx head visible inside the handhold indentation on the passenger side. I'd initially hoped that I could just loosen the left part of the trim panel and reach in, but the way the lower trim panel fits inside the upper trim panel prevents you from getting any space to work without taking it all the way off.

It is just four bolts, three visible on the inside of the hatch and one under the trim panel. I also loosened the lower bolt holding on the outside trim panel above the taillight just to give me a bit more room to wiggle the light out and back in. There are also two plastic clips molded into the taillight assembly holding it in place. They clip to the opening in the hatch where the wiring and light go through, and aren't hard to disengage if you know they're there. I only looked after I took out the bolts and it didn't just pop right out. It also took me a couple of minutes to figure out the little tabs that I had to flip and pull to disconnect the wiring harness.

Reassembly was pretty quick. It was just a matter of lining everything up and snapping it back together. The hardest part was getting some of the clips lined up with their holes and I had to poke around a bit to get it into the right place. Once a few were in the rest snapped into place quickly.

Start to finish was about an hour and a half, and if I had to do it again (let's hope not!), I could do it in under an hour.
 

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Since moskusjm never followed up with success or failure stories, I'll share mine since I just completed replacing the taillight.

Removing the interior trim isn't terribly difficult. It would be easier with the trim removal tools, but I was able to get it partly by hand and partly with standard pry bars. There's only one screw, a torx head visible inside the handhold indentation on the passenger side. I'd initially hoped that I could just loosen the left part of the trim panel and reach in, but the way the lower trim panel fits inside the upper trim panel prevents you from getting any space to work without taking it all the way off.

It is just four bolts, three visible on the inside of the hatch and one under the trim panel. I also loosened the lower bolt holding on the outside trim panel above the taillight just to give me a bit more room to wiggle the light out and back in. There are also two plastic clips molded into the taillight assembly holding it in place. They clip to the opening in the hatch where the wiring and light go through, and aren't hard to disengage if you know they're there. I only looked after I took out the bolts and it didn't just pop right out. It also took me a couple of minutes to figure out the little tabs that I had to flip and pull to disconnect the wiring harness.

Reassembly was pretty quick. It was just a matter of lining everything up and snapping it back together. The hardest part was getting some of the clips lined up with their holes and I had to poke around a bit to get it into the right place. Once a few were in the rest snapped into place quickly.

Start to finish was about an hour and a half, and if I had to do it again (let's hope not!), I could do it in under an hour.
Thanks for sharing the experience. No doubt somebody else will have to, or want to take out the taillights in the future and now there is a description of the process. Well done!:)
 

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I didn't get the $200. off" deal, but my local Chevy dealer did match an eBay price that wasn't far from that. I installed it today. Thanks BoltyMcBoltFace for you description. These two pics may be helpful. The one show the black tabs (hard to see) to the right and left of the white ring you need to push in order to pop out the light after removing the four bolts, or just yank it out as I did, not knowing where these tabs were. The other pic shows the electrical coupling-- you need to first pull out the red safety a bit and then you can press in the little black tab below it before pulling apart.

The day did not go quite as envisioned. After pressing the tail light into place I was shocked to see the outside corner of the lens was broken off. I thought I had handled it carefully. I found one piece outside the shipping box beside the front of the car and another inside the hatch area where I had briefly placed the tail light. The lens was covered with a sheet of plastic up until right before I put it into place. My sleuth-of-a-wife then examined the box an foam it came in and saw the box was a bit damaged right at the place that part of the light would have been touching the box. Whoever packaged it with moldable foam had about 6" of space on one end of the box and zero space on the end that was broken. This was enough evidence for the dealer to believe me. So another one is ordered.... I'm thinking too that the second time around should be less than an hour.

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