[Rmay635703]

You have a passionate opinion on the matter which is unfortunately not supported by fact. The braking system is composed of wear parts and as such is expected to require regular maintenance and replacement.

jack vines

Brake and fuel lines are not wear components.
Does his manual specify they get replaced every year?

If a “young” brake line fails by coorsion and creates an accident or a death it would be an automatic investigation and recall.

The NHS takes rusting brake lines and fuel lines seriously even on very old cars, let alone one that is only a few years old.

The only reason Cobalt fuel lines didn’t drive a 2nd recall was because there were no deaths.

As good practice, if a safety system on a vehicle fails prematurely
ITS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO REPORT IT TO THE NHS.

The NHS keeps the data and may force a recall if it’s noticing a common problem.

This is what I told the Maverick folks that kept having vehicles stall with a dead battery because of a bad harness.

Not long after that same harness was associated with fires and a TSB and replacement campaign on select vehicles

When people fail to report these issues that’s when you end up with big issues years down the road because the NHS didn’t have the data early enough.

 

[Voldar]

Any time a safety system fails make a complaint to the National Highway admin

Brake lines, calipers, etc should not fail by rust....

You have strong beliefs, not much supported by facts, but it's your time, your choice. I can't add more to this.

Brake ... are not wear components.
Does his manual specify they get replaced every year?

What you don't use, you lose. Does this rings the bell ?
At the same time, the manual does tells you :

 

[MichBolt]

Brake and fuel lines are not wear components.
Does his manual specify they get replaced every year?

If a “young” brake line fails by coorsion and creates an accident or a death it would be an automatic investigation and recall.

The NHS takes rusting brake lines and fuel lines seriously even on very old cars, let alone one that is only a few years old.

Perhaps you could explain how OP's use of regenerative braking would contribute to rusted brake lines?

 

[Rmay635703]

You have strong beliefs, not much supported by facts, but it's your time, your choice. I can't add more to this.

What you don't use, you lose. Does this rings the bell ?
At the same time, the manual does tells you :
View attachment 52364

What fact? You think it’s impossible for him to fill out a form?

Has there never been a brake rust recall before?

Subaru Recalls 199K Vehicles for Brake Line Rust

Rusty brake lines can leak fluid and cause longer stopping distances.

www.nbcnews.com

Brake system corrosion prompts massive Daimler recall

More than 200,000 trucks are being recalled by Daimler Trucks North America for an issue that could cause uneven braking during adaptive cruise control braking. Also: Ascend raises owner-op pay; Love's, Chester's Chicken bring back 'Truckersgiving.'

www.overdriveonline.com

US opens probe into 1.7 million Ford vehicles over brake hose recall | Fox Business

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration is looking into a 2020 Ford recall

www.foxbusiness.com

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fordauthority.com

read between the lines, submitting a case the the NHS takes 5 seconds, it’s a benefit to everyone but likely not to the op.

Any time i experience rusted lines of any type on my cars I submit a report with what happened to the NHS.

I do the same if I encounter any type of worn through electrical lines on one of my vehicles.

It doesn’t mean you get anything but occasionally it results in an action down the road, like the Subaru recall.

I live in the rust zone and my 1982 diesel suburbangot 25 years out of the fuel and brake lines.

Thats normal, 2 years not normal.

 

[Voldar]

What fact? You think it’s impossible for him to fill out a form?

No, I didn't say that. I only say that according to the manual, it's your duty to inspect the wheels, brakes, calipers and so on, pretty much regularly = every time you rotate your wheels @ 7500 miles.

Now, if you don't use your common sense, and you continue to imagine that something that you don't use, it can't rust, that's on you, not on the manufacturer. It's common knowledge that a car that sits will have a lot more rust vs a car that is driven every day. I hope I don't have to explain to you why this happen.

I am sure most of the people here are well seasoned men/women who aren't at their first car. I am still puzzled every time I read a topic on a subject that, if it was about an ICEV, it wouldn't exist. But still, when it's about BEV, people look at them differently and expect everything to be handed to them by the manufacturer, like they lost their common sense.

P.S. BEV is battery electric vehicles not Bolt EV

 

[Brad]

Just a question ... what happens if you for the next week or so, just use the brakes to clean up the rotors? I wonder if applying the brakes hard enough to actually use them will actually clean them up and you will be good to go? Of course, if they are deeply corroded and pitted, that would be different.

 

[Boltmobile]

Another suggestion is to wash your car more often during salt season, it helps not just with the brakes.

 

[Rmay635703]

Another suggestion is to wash your car more often during salt season, it helps not just with the brakes.

I have had the experience of 2 nearly identical cars, one washed weekly the other washed rarely.

Both rusted up.

From what I’m told though have no evidence of is that a good body+ uncarriage flush + wax just before salt season is best followed by periodic ones when it’s dry.
If you constantly wash in salt season you just lend more moisture to coorode.

My least washed vehicle took the longest to rust out.

 

[Boltmobile]

I have had the experience of 2 nearly identical cars, one washed weekly the other washed rarely.

Both rusted up.

There are so many reasons that could explain why both rusted up. Main reason being that even though both cars seemed identicals there weren't and they haven't been exposed to the exact same conditions.

If you constantly wash in salt season you just lend more moisture to coorode.

Water is there any way from snow and water isn't the same as salted water.

Since rusting is all about the movement of electrons, iron rusts more quickly in salt water than it does in fresh water.

How Does Salt Water Rust Metals?

Saltwater does not make a metal rust, but it accelerates the rusting process because electrons move more easily in saltwater than they do in pure water.

sciencing.com

Washing your car remove some salt and apply a protective layer of wax that can help prevent some rust from forming.

From what I’m told though have no evidence of is that a good body+ uncarriage flush + wax just before salt season is best followed by periodic ones when it’s dry.

From my own experience snow, etc.. often rub onto the undercarriage which i'm pretty sure remove wax that there is there which then makes the metal in contact with the oxygen in the air.

 

[redpoint5]

I find it hard to imagine needing 100% of brake components replaced in just 2 years, granted I don't live in a place that salts the roads.

Rotors can probably be cleaned just by coasting down a hill in N and using the brakes. You could have them turned for whatever the new inflation price of what used to be $10 each. The shop will use a micrometer to verify thickness is within spec. Personally, I never turn rotors because the cost of new ones are usually only twice the cost of turning them.

Pads are like $15-$50 set depending on if you get the cheapest semi-metallic, or ceramic. I always choose ceramic because just want them to last the rest of my ownership.

Parts:
Rotor (4): $320
Pads (2): $160
Total parts: USD $480
Labor should be, I think, max 4hrs. So total can be $480.
So that $1300 seems excessive.
You may want to go to smaller shop with aftermarket parts (or you can buy GM parts yourself), if you don't lean on doing it yourselves. It should be cheaper.

$1,300 would have to include new calipers, too. Those are cheap when you buy refurbs and return yours for the core charge.

 

[Dark-Fx]

Not sure why all the talk of rusted brake lines. Guarantee that isn't OP's concern. Rusted rotors from non-use are a common enough problem for EVs that only one pedal brake. GM cheaped out on the metal that the brake rotors are made from in the Bolt and they will have a tendancy to rust from non-use. You should be inspecting the caliper slides once a year as well, as those can also get frozen up from non-use.

OP could probably get away with having the rotors resurfaced now before the pads get too worn down from the pitting, and no other work, assuming the caliper slides are still free moving.

 

[Packard V8]

GM cheaped out on the metal that the brake rotors are made from in the Bolt and they will have a tendancy to rust from non-use. You should be inspecting the caliper slides once a year as well, as those can also get frozen up from non-use.

OP could probably get away with having the rotors resurfaced now before the pads get too worn down from the pitting, and no other work, assuming the caliper slides are still free moving.

Agree with most of your post, but question your first sentence. Substantiate it or retract it. FWIW, GM coated the rotors and only those in salthell are experiencing problems. Most Bolt owners only see shiny rotors year after year.

jack vines

 

[Shark]

I ran into something after the summer of 2020. A friend had not driven her car for a long time. Not a bolt. Like 10 weeks. The surface of the rotor that was in contact with the pad was actually gone. Not sure if it corroded severely from contact. It actually looked like the rotor may have been chromed and this delaminated. Only where the pad touched it. I said the same thing as you guys. I'll pull the pads. See if we can turn it. Or get a new one. Imagine my shock when a piece about 1 mm deep in the shape of a pad is just gone! New rotors. New pads. Everything.

 

[Voldar]

Agree with most of your post, but question your first sentence. Substantiate it or retract it. FWIW, GM coated the rotors and only those in salthell are experiencing problems. Most Bolt owners only see shiny rotors year after year.

jack vines

This 👆 with a little correction : mine are shiny still. 😂😂
And ****, we use salt around here like crazy !

 

[Electric Personality]

Really need to know specifically what corroded. Rotors? Calipers? Caliper guide pins? Caliper mounting brackets? Pad backing?

 

[txxthie]

Tesla has not figured it out. The TM3 LFP will not have this problem though. It has minimal regeneration in winter due to LFP chemistry not liking the cold. You could always trade for an ID 4 that has drum rear brakes. Drum brakes suck but don’t dare say that in the ID 4 forums.

Your conditions don’t sound normal and your best chance for financial assistance is pleading your case to Chevy corporate. Don’t mention you never use brakes or drive in salty conditions, probably doesn’t help your case. Going forward: Use and wash brakes/rims more frequently especially during salty conditions.

 

[Boltmobile]

Really need to know specifically what corroded. Rotors? Calipers? Caliper guide pins? Caliper mounting brackets? Pad backing?

I can tell you what was the issue on mine bought used (import from the U.S, 2 year lease), invoice:
"...rear brake caliper was replaced and also bleed the brake line..."
"sea brake cleaner...sandpaper...
front/rear brake service was done..."
535.97 CAD or 401.91 USD

 

[SteveWilson1983]

Unfortunately there is no other way to sugar-coat it. The question you asked is one of those who have only a white or black answer.

But what you can do in the future is one of the following :

• once in a full moon (about every 30 days), take the car to a ride and accelerate it to 60-65 mph then stomp on the breaks, do this 3-4-5 times in a row, just enough to have some hot brakes.
• once a year, take your Bolt EV/EUV to the dealership or another cars workshop to do a brakes job

I have my Bolt for 4 years now and all I do is the first option. I have no problems with the brakes.

If you don't want to look like a nut, accelerating and then rapidly decelerating, you can just shift into N and brake like a gas car. Some people will say it's "unsafe" to be in neutral while rolling, but I've never heard that be said about driving a manual. Most people I know just press the clutch and come out of gear to stop for a stop sign, so it's literally the exact same thing.
Note to go to N, you have to hold the gear shift forward for like half a second. Just tapping it like you do to toggle between L and D doesn't do it.

 

[jmcbrew]

Parts:
Rotor (4): $320
Pads (2): $160
Total parts: USD $480

And you can do a lot better than that. A quick google search turned up a complete set of pads and rotors for $189. Nothing complicated about the brakes in the Bolt. I had to replace a sticky caliper (due to old brake fluid, not rust), and a brand new OEM caliper cost me about $36.

 

[EBS]

Out of curiosity: when you replaced the caliper, did you have to unhook the 12v battery? Or are the replacement steps exactly the same as any ICE car?
I ask this because with Prius, I had to unhook it. Prius would engage the brake whenever you open the door (which is what happens all the time anyway). So unhooking the 12v battery would disable the brake.