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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hade the software update 3 weeks ago and was led to believe it would give me 80% of original mileage which would be about 200 miles. My first full charge stopped at 136 miles. I spoke with dealership and they said the battery needs to "Learn" your driving habits. My response was, It did not need to learn my driving habits when I first purchased it." They asked me to give it time. I now only receive a max of 127 miles- for a full charge. Anyone else having this issue?
 

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I hade the software update 3 weeks ago and was led to believe it would give me 80% of original mileage which would be about 200 miles. My first full charge stopped at 136 miles. I spoke with dealership and they said the battery needs to "Learn" your driving habits. My response was, It did not need to learn my driving habits when I first purchased it." They asked me to give it time. I now only receive a max of 127 miles- for a full charge. Anyone else having this issue?
The issue is most likely that it's wintertime and when using the heater your range is reduced, so you likely wouldn't be getting 200 miles even without limiting the charge level to 80%. Speed is also another major factor and the range estimate the car gives you is based on current conditions as well as recent history.
 

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Basically, only really care about the SOC and your efficiency, not the GOM's range guess. The GOM's range guess is not a good indicator of battery health or limitations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The issue is most likely that it's wintertime and when using the heater your range is reduced, so you likely wouldn't be getting 200 miles even without limiting the charge level to 80%. Speed is also another major factor and the range estimate the car gives you is based on current conditions as well as recent history.
Thanks for the reply and I am in southern WI where is has been cold. Can it be explained why then prior to my software update, I set it back 20% and got 200 miles in the same cold weather. Maybe I am confused about capacity and mileage but the difference seems too large. It sits in a warm garage when it is charged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My climate takes 11% of battery and environment is 3%. That does not seem too bad for WI. Would that then drive the "Available mileage calculation down to 66% of 256 miles?
 

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My climate takes 11% of battery and environment is 3%. That does not seem too bad for WI. Would that then drive the "Available mileage calculation down to 66% of 256 miles?
The quick answer : No.
The miles/kWh is the best way to determine your potential range.
Lets say your Bolt EV has a 64 kWH battery : at 80 % SOC = 51.20 kWh available to you.
You drive it with an average "efficiency" of 3.2 m/kWh, this means your potential range would be 163 miles. If you have 2.5 miles/kWh shown in the dashboard, then the potential range would be 128 miles. So, as you see, for the same 80% you get different ranges.
This "efficency" is based on the three T :
  • terrain
  • temperature
  • technique (driving technique)
If the terrain is a hilly one, your "efficiency" will go down. If the temperature is low, your "efficiency" will go down. If you are speeding, your "efficiency" will go down. The oposite is true too. That's why I would advise you, the new owners of a BEV, to drive it as much as possible, to learn how your BEV acts and to see what suits you best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to everyone for your replies. Seems losing over 100 miles is excessive even with the cold and if I were lead footing it.
 

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Thanks to everyone for your replies. Seems losing over 100 miles is excessive even with the cold and if I were lead footing it.
Full charge best summer range I saw in my Bolt was 265. Worst winter full charge was somewhere around 115 miles. Excessive, but reality.
 

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Thanks to everyone for your replies. Seems losing over 100 miles is excessive even with the cold and if I were lead footing it.
You could try remote start before driving and let the car heat up (you'll want to be plugged in). It'll heat the batteries up a little and maybe improve efficiency a bit.
 

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EVs with heat
Thanks to everyone for your replies. Seems losing over 100 miles is excessive even with the cold and if I were lead footing it.
EVs with heat pumps do much better in the winter and don't lose as much mileage as the Bolt with its resistive heater. With that said, there's nothing wrong with a resistive heater and you can often gain a lot of those losses back with some careful planning and settings. For example, precondition, use more seat heat so you can turn down the HVAC temp a bit, check tire pressure often since colder temps will reduce pressure, etc. I think there are some good cold weather driving tips here if you search.

Mike
 

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EVs with heat


EVs with heat pumps do much better in the winter and don't lose as much mileage as the Bolt with its resistive heater. With that said, there's nothing wrong with a resistive heater and you can often gain a lot of those losses back with some careful planning and settings. For example, precondition, use more seat heat so you can turn down the HVAC temp a bit, check tire pressure often since colder temps will reduce pressure, etc. I think there are some good cold weather driving tips here if you search.

Mike
I'm not entirely convinced. There may not be enough heat in the air in colder climates for heat pumps to be practical (this is apparently one reason people still buy gas furnaces). And heat pumps appear to be fragile?

See here:

Maybe it's just a Tesla thing? Seems like a combination of heat pump and resistive heating would be ideal. Heat pump for when it's not too cold outside... and resistive heating for when the heat pump just won't work as well.
 

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I do remember an old comment from a GM person that the Bolt doesn't have a heat pump because it would be sold in cold climates. I've never experienced a heat pump but I don't know how well it would work when it's single digit temps or negative.
 

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I do remember an old comment from a GM person that the Bolt doesn't have a heat pump because it would be sold in cold climates. I've never experienced a heat pump but I don't know how well it would work when it's single digit temps or negative.
Well, I read that it will still work. Apparently my understanding about heat pumps is somewhat of a myth. All I remember is when I was updating HVAC in the home, I was reading about heat pumps vs gas furnaces. It might be that gas furnaces in those more northerly climates are preferable purely for economic reasons (natural gas being cheaper). Not necessarily because heat pumps don't actually work well there.
 

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I'm not entirely convinced. There may not be enough heat in the air in colder climates for heat pumps to be practical (this is apparently one reason people still buy gas furnaces). And heat pumps appear to be fragile?

See here:

Maybe it's just a Tesla thing? Seems like a combination of heat pump and resistive heating would be ideal. Heat pump for when it's not too cold outside... and resistive heating for when the heat pump just won't work as well.
I’m not sure about other cars but the heat pump works great in my e-tron , it gets too hot inside the cabin if I set it beyond 72 degrees with ambient temps of 20 degrees or so , it handles the 10 degrees just fine
 

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The heat pump in my home is only good to 30-40F, after that the gas backup kicks on. But many car heat pumps are reportedly good down to 10-20F. Of course, I believe that even with a heat pump the cars still have an alternate heating source, same as my home.
 

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Heat pumps have been updated over the last 100 years ya know. Some are rated to quite low temps but they will continue to provide heat past that number. I think the lowest rated I've seen was -25F.
 
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