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Thank you. I installed the new tweeters this morning without including the capacitor but using the stock connector. Should I have kept the capacitor?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Leave the filter (capacitor) out, that’s specific to the stock tweeter. Your tweeter will have its own high pass filter built in.
 

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tk1971 - when you wired up your tweeters, did you include or exclude the little yellow filter that was on the original tweeter? In other words, was the wire from the car connected directly to the speaker or was the yellow filter from the
I would caution against using the original filter capacitor, especially if your aftermarket speakers came with their own filter / crossover. You will alter the crossover frequency if you add both. Stacking one after the other will reduce the value of the capacitor and raise the crossover frequency, you will end up with a hole in the midrange.
If your new tweeter did not come with a filter I would check with the supplier for the recommended Value and go from there.
 

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The sounds is significantly brighter with a stronger bass. While it sounds better to me, I am not an audiophile and may not be the best person to be able to describe the result.
 

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tk1971, thank you for your response. I did not include the factory capacitor and it sounds good to me. I appreciate all your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The project is going off the rails.

For some reason, I decided to replace the Bose amp with a Kenwood eXcelon XR401-4 and the subwoofer with a JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1.

It’s hard working on it while parts are still coming in. I was taking to Nomismosnibor about this about distribution blocks for both ground and power.

Here is what’s done so far...

Added a board:


X3 harness:

I’m using this to make a male harness adapter for the audio line inputs and 12v remote to mate with connector X3:

Sysly IDC16 2x8 Pins Male Header Breakout Board Terminal Block Connector with Simple DIN Rail Mounting feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TGVCPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-vtWEbX70K916

I started by cutting off all the plastic around the connector, exposing the bare pins. The pin spacing is perfect.



Then I relabeled the pins as they are numbered in a different order than GM.




On the speaker output connector X2, I couldn’t find any universal connectors with the same pin spacing, so it’s JST male connectors to the rescue again. 2 pin JST male connectors fit with the shrouds cut off. After connecting/labeling, I just taped them to the connector. I’ll use a couple of terminal blocks to connect these wires to the amp.




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Discussion Starter #28
Waiting for the final parts (fused power distribution block and the correct size fuses).

In the meantime everything else is connected, including the non-fused ground distribution block.




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Discussion Starter #30
Well I’m done enough to hear how it sounds...

To think I was apprehensive about putting the JL Audio sub in the same spot where the Bose sub was located. All I can say is WOW!!!

That Kenwood XR401-4 amp really brings out the clarity and nuance in all types of music. And that sub... it sounds great.

Now that it’s working, next will be tuning followed by building some kind of structure to hold up the subfloor in that trunk. I’m putting some heavy stuff (spare tire and tools) literally on top of the sub.

Oh, and some final housekeeping, i.e. tying up wiring, waiting for some final pieces (shorter audio RCA cable, etc.).

All said this was worth it.

Final pics:






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Awesome work man, I’m sure it sounds great!
Random question- I noticed you have quite a few Tornado hooks set up there, what do you use them for?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Awesome work man, I’m sure it sounds great!
Random question- I noticed you have quite a few Tornado hooks set up there, what do you use them for?
I installed a "improvised" molle rack on the rear seatback. It's secured to the child safety anchors. The hooks are installed on the rack to carry my hitch mounted bike rack. The rack disassembles into 3 pieces which are secured to the rack/hooks when not in use.

29319

29320
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Look what I found while nosying around the Camaro forums:


I just bought one. I’ll report back when everything is done. If this works, it could be a big deal when dealing with the connectors X2 and X3. Imagine an almost plug and play experience!!!


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Discussion Starter #35
The harness came in from Crutchfield. It has both male and female connectors for X1, X2, and X3.

X2 and X3 has all the pins and wires populated. The easy way is to just cut out the male connectors and connect them to the

wire diagrams above.

I did it the hard way by removing all the wiring from each connector and used only the wires/pins I needed.

It’s as close to plug and play as it’s going to get for the Bolt.

Here it is all done.



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Discussion Starter #37
FYI, I have another post under the "what have I done to my Bolt lately" section that shows my progress in adding sound deadening material in each of my doors and the trunk.

I'm now under the impression that it was a good and worthwhile thing to do. Before adding the 80 mil butyl/foil material, my sub was turned up past the halfway gain setting and the crossover was set around 110 Hz setting. Now that I have installed sound deadening in every door/trunk, I get a lot more bass from the woofers in my doors and the sub is now too boomy as well. This is not surprising due to the crossover setting on that sub being so high.

There was a lot of missing bass that was recovered after sound deadening, and now my sub is set at ~80 Hz. That's likely temporary as I haven't tuned my amp or sub yet (just making course adjustments by ear). The low end frequency response on the speakers per the mfgr specs is 63 Hz. I expect some overlap with the sub so I'll tune everything up as soon as I apply sound deadening on the car's roof under the headliner.
 
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