[tk1971]

I know this a old post, but my amp burnt out on my 2017 Chevy Bolt Premier. Chevy does not have any replacement amps available. Am I able to buy this adapter, hook it up to the OEM wiring as a harness and connect it to an aftermarket system? Just making sure Im getting this right because crutch field didn't have anything officially for the bolt. Don't want to cut any OEM wires if I don't have to.

If you have the Bose system then yes, the connector will allow you to keep your wiring intact and connect to an aftermarket sound system.

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

If you have the Bose system then yes, the connector will allow you to keep your wiring intact and connect to an aftermarket sound system.

Thank you so much.. I'll buy it now. I see you use the Kenwood XR401-4. With the fuse being 25amp, Im assuming the max power amp I can get is 300watts or so which should be fine. Thanks for all your research. Helped me a lot.

Update
Purchased the adapter and the Kenwood Excelon XR401-4 Amp. Will let you know how it goes.

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

Ok I have the amp and harness. I cut it as instructed from the previous post. Im still kind of confused however, which wire is X2 and X3? Do I need the 3rd one? What wires dont I need. I just want to make sure this is wired right so I can plug it right in when I get to my car. I should only need the male ports (the side with the pins) since the ports from the car are female correct?

 

[tk1971]

X2 and x3 are the factory manual designations of the connectors that have the wires you need to install an aftermarket amp where the stock Bose amp/sub are located. That’s all you will need. Follow the diagrams for amp inputs, speaker out, etc.

Here’s a post with details on the wiring.

Bose Amp wiring inputs?

Front speakers are in... My rear door speakers haven’t even arrived and somehow I went and bought a powered subwoofer (JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1). Anyone have access to a shop manual so I can identify the exact inputs in the attached table (right side column)? My next move after the sub will...

www.chevybolt.org

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

So I ordered RCA adapters for the X3 adapter to connect the output which should come in by tomorrow. Just want to make sure, 12V REM on the X3 is power for the amp right? (14.4V 25A)? Do you know which one is GROUND?

 

[tk1971]

View attachment 53069
View attachment 53068

So I ordered RCA adapters for the X3 adapter to connect the output which should come in by tomorrow. Just want to make sure, 12V REM on the X3 is power for the amp right? (14.4V 25A)? Do you know which one is GROUND?

12v remote is the remote signal to the amp. There’s a remote input on the amp that this connects to. It’s the signal to let the amp know to turn on.

Power to the amp is supplied directly from the 12v battery and ground is one of the bolts that used to secure the old Bose sub (body of car).

I used this 4ga wiring kit from Crutchfield:

Crutchfield CK4

4-gauge amplifier wiring kit — includes power wiring only

www.crutchfield.com

The 4ga power and ground go to terminal blocks that supply both my 4-channel amp and my JL Audio 10” powered sub.

 

[tk1971]

So I ordered RCA adapters for the X3 adapter to connect the output which should come in by tomorrow. Just want to make sure, 12V REM on the X3 is power for the amp right? (14.4V 25A)? Do you know which one is GROUND?

X3 is connected to the female RCA connectors. This (pre-amp outputs) goes to your Kenwood amp as input for each of the 4 channels.

X2 is connected to your car speakers so the bare wires are connected to your amp individual outputs.

 

[tk1971]

Here’s another post from another member who did a really nice upgrade. Has additional info as well as a pdf wiring diagram.

Today, I started my audio upgrade.

I've had my 2017 Bolt Premier since January, and even though it has the upgraded Bose audio system, I needed more than that. And so it begins. The end goal is a 4-way, fully active sound system using Dayton Audio drivers and DSP. Power will be provided by 3 MB-Quart amplifiers, 9 channels...

www.chevybolt.org

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

Given that the max power is 400 watts I will try to get away with stock wiring. At worst ill blow an easy-to-replace fuse. If the X3 12V REM is for remote power Im assuming the X1 carries battery power according to this info below? Its for the EUV but Im hoping it matches the Bolt EV Power out to the amp as well? The wires on the X1 adapter is also a lot thicker so Im assuming it does. Ill wire it up and hope it powers on.



 

[tk1971]

Given that the max power is 400 watts I will try to get away with stock wiring. At worst ill blow an easy-to-replace fuse. If the X3 12V REM is for remote power Im assuming the X1 carries battery power according to this info below? Its for the EUV but Im hoping it matches the Bolt EV Power out to the amp as well? The wires on the X1 adapter is also a lot thicker so Im assuming it does. Ill wire it up and hope it powers on.



The diagrams I put together for X2 and X3 only show the wires I used in my specific setup. I purposefully excluded everything else to minimize confusion on my end.

I believe X1 is the power to Bose Amp. I did not use it. Try confirming with the wiring pdf from that other post for another 2017 upgrade.

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

Thanks for that link! Yeah I can see it shows X1 for the power. Probably should have grabbed a 5 channel amp. How will the sub get audio signal? Did you use some type of channel/ freq splitter? I can probably use an rca splitter but will need to filter the frequency.

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

Hey it looks like I needed a 5 channel amp instead to support the sub. Is there a way I can use some type of high level filter with a bypass on the LR audio channel instead?

edit
Most of the crossovers are mid range to tweeter, not low frequency to mid-high...

If I cant...maybe Ill eventually get a monoblock, run and put a really powerful sub in the back just for fun in the futrure. Or get a proper 5 channel sub. Will test if all of this works first when I connect it in car.

 

[tk1971]

Hey it looks like I needed a 5 channel amp instead to support the sub. Is there a way I can use some type of high level filter with a bypass on the LR audio channel instead?

edit
Most of the crossovers are mid range to tweeter, not low frequency to mid-high...

If I cant...maybe Ill eventually get a monoblock, run and put a really powerful sub in the back just for fun in the futrure. Or get a proper 5 channel sub. Will test if all of this works first when I connect it in car.

I used RCA splitters on the rear L/R pre-amp signals to split it to the 4-channel amp and to the powered sub which has both line or speaker level L/R inputs. No external crossovers needed, the JL Audio powered sub has its own low pass filter.

I just used an oscilloscope to adjust the gain up on the rear L/R channels to compensate for the split.

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

I used RCA splitters on the rear L/R pre-amp signals to split it to the 4-channel amp and to the powered sub which has both line or speaker level L/R inputs. No external crossovers needed, the JL Audio powered sub has its own low pass filter.

I just used an oscilloscope to adjust the gain up on the rear L/R channels to compensate for the split.

Hey, I got the system working! Thank you for all your help! It was a plug and play experience (with some hiccups) and with your pinout information everything worked on first try! I will probably make an easy step by step post guide people who just want to upgrade the amp. The sound is AMAZING, but I may have to get some inline filters or fine tune the amp more (The midranges are boomy where voices can sound abit bassy.)

The X1 adapter ran a little small for the X1 connector on the chevy bolt. So I took a dremel and sawed the bottom of the X1 connector (on the harness adapter, not the OEM plug) to make it fit, and it worked perfectly (sorry forgot to take picture of the sawed adapter! but it was really easy to do with the right tool). Since this X1 connector is fused at 14.4V 25A I can get 360W max which proved to be more than enough for the whole car. No additional wires needed.

Added a bath towel and put the amplifier under a plastic bag for waterproofing just incase water wants to find its way back in.

SINCE the amp is rated as low as 2ohms, I combined the Left Rear Channel with the Left Front, and the Right Rear Channels with the right front. So Instead of running 5 channel I am running 3 channel, (Left, Right, Sub). Sub is bridged to channel 3 and 4 for extra power at 4ohms while the Left and Right run parallel on channel 1 & 2 at 2ohms. Picture is attached. This made the process a whole lot easier to deal with without getting anything additional and keeping project cost low. The amp, especially being bridged, has more than enough power to run the stock sub and hit good bass especially at high power.
Max volume 63 is extremely loudddd, yes!! lol
The sub was at half volume sensitivity on the amp setting while the left and right channels were at max, but the sub still comes in strong even at half power!

The midranges are boomy, the amp settings cannot low pass filter more than 200hz. Most likely will get 600hz inline filter for the high and low pass to balance everything out
I will I do some additional tuning on the amp to see if this is actually required. 200hz shouldn't be so boomy. I lowered the bass from the head unit but this also lowers subwoofer output due to my setup. I will probably boost channel sensitivity for channel 3|4(sub) and lower sensitivity on channel 1 & 2 to balance it out first before I buy anything. Will confirm in another post

*Just realizing since the head unit is 4 channel, it probably doing directional sound for each speaker. Thinking if this can affect performance and if I can adjust this to a more stereo feel

Thanks again for all your help @tk1971 . I will include your name in a new post when I make an easy step by step guide for people who want or need to replace their amp. The sound is AMAZING. Still all stock speakers and tweeters, but its really loud and maintains clarity. I am an Uber driver and a lot of passengers were really impressed.

 

[ZZAAAPP]

Good information in this thread. Thank you for documenting this.

I have a question that I think is related. Does GM use the same head unit for the Bose and non-Bose Bolts? I ask because I am about to dive into modding the stereo in a 2023 EUV with a non-Bose stereo. HOWEVER, if the head units are the same, this implies that the non-Bose Head Unit will have line outs for the Bose amp albeit not connected to anything.

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

Good information in this thread. Thank you for documenting this.

I have a question that I think is related. Does GM use the same head unit for the Bose and non-Bose Bolts? I ask because I am about to dive into modding the stereo in a 2023 EUV with a non-Bose stereo. HOWEVER, if the head units are the same, this implies that the non-Bose Head Unit will have line outs for the Bose amp albeit not connected to anything.

Hey sorry just now seeing this. Im not sure but from what I seen on the EUV it seems to have a 6 channel audio system. I will post what I saw about it it should help you greatly.

edit
Here you go.

Bose Amp wiring inputs?

Front speakers are in... My rear door speakers haven’t even arrived and somehow I went and bought a powered subwoofer (JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1). Anyone have access to a shop manual so I can identify the exact inputs in the attached table (right side column)? My next move after the sub will...

www.chevybolt.org

It look like it uses the same exact X1 X2 and X3 connector that the bolt ev uses. Keep in mind that the bolt doesnt use ALL the wires from the pins (with maybe half on the x2 and x3 going to ground) so it looks like the euv is using the same adapter and ultizing more of the wires. You should be able to buy the PAC adapter that we bought and follow the pinout based on the information given in the link regardless of the headunit. Im sure they are the same head unit with the only the amp being different, that is the most likely scernio but make sure.

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

Some updated photos. I put the amp inside a waterproof sports bag now since water did make it to the trunk, but the amp gets so hot and subwoofer pushes so much air that it dries out before causing damage. Photos of the sawed x1 adapter so it can fit. Power isnt a issue at all as the fuse doesnt blow but the amp overheats if input senstivity (amplification power) is maxed out causing it to shut off to cool down. Wonder if I can use heatsink from oem amp and apply some thermal paste to cool it down since the amp does get too hot to even touch (crazy!)

Used heat high resistant rubber bands cause the rca input kept wanting to slide out when i hit a bump. Now its sturdy and with the adjustments the amp doesnt use too much power that it overheats. Would be nice to push that sub all the way. Will keep updated with more information.

Forgot to take pic of sport bag but its a simple waterproof tie bag youd wear on the back.

Forgot to mention I also cleaned the rca wires up so bare wire doesnt extrude out. No need for the electrical tape anymore, I just cut the bare wire out too much.

 

[tk1971]

For heat, I zipped tied two of these to the amp with copper paste.

YXQ Aluminium Heat Sink Heatsink... Amazon.com: YXQ Aluminium Heat Sink Heatsink 150 x 69 x 37mm Cooling Computer Cooler Fin Transfer Heat Diffuse, Silver Tone : Electronics

 

[ImpulsiveZ]

For heat, I zipped tied two of these to the amp with copper paste.

YXQ Aluminium Heat Sink Heatsink... Amazon.com: YXQ Aluminium Heat Sink Heatsink 150 x 69 x 37mm Cooling Computer Cooler Fin Transfer Heat Diffuse, Silver Tone : Electronics

View attachment 53985

Oh thats a pretty good idea I will do that. Thanks for the info

 

[ZZAAAPP]

Thanks @ImpulsiveZ appreciate the input.