Chevy Bolt EV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 58 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sub + Amp install guide, done by a noob

This is my first time installing audio equipment into a car. Audio shop wanted to charge me 100$ for installation, so i spent a couple days watching youtube vidoes and researching how do do it myself.

These are just some tips on how I did it, I'm not a professional but have some electrical common sense.

For 12V+ A hole can easily be made in the rubber firewall grommet to pass the wire through, i used a round file for this

For 12V- I used the screw hole where the spare tire foam filler attaches to the chassis, scrapped the paint off and installed a nut and bolt with ring terminal holding the wire in place

I used a line output converter to get signal from rear speakers to the amp. Left rear speaker wire colors are (+)green and (-)green black stripe. Right rear Speaker (+) white wire (-)blue wire with black stripe. The quarter panels pop off easily and the insulation on the wiring to the rear door will need to be cut to access the speaker wires. I used T-tap connectors to pick up the speaker signals

For the "Remote on" for the amp, i'm running a wire from the (+) pin of the 12V socket, so that the amp turns on when the car turns on(its just a relay). I modified a 12V USB car charger to achieve this(opened it up, soldered wire to the positive pin)

I screwed the amp directly to the foam filler, seems sturdy enough.

The wires can be neatly tucked away under the panels or carpets or in the seat seams.

The boss LED subs are rated 800 watt RMS 1600 peak, and are relatively cheap compared to other 12 inch subs with the same specs. The blue LEDS are nice, I have them connected to a switch in the front so i can turn them on or off. Even when I leave them on the car battery (12v)doesn't die and the voltage stays above 12....Is the main battery is always keeping the 12v battery charged even when the car is off? Seems like it, but i could be wrong here

The sub box is sitting on the false cargo floor. In the pictures its tilted forward.

My volt meter has the voltage momentarily dropping below 10v when amp is turned up(max), i suspect this may be due to the 8 gauge wire. I plan on upgrading to 4 gauge soon and will post results.

"BOOM BOOM"
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Looks like you can't use the second row anymore?
The false cargo floor is tilted forward, if i push it back down, scoot the box back about an inch, seats can be folded up.
I like to have it tilted forward cause it looks like a photon drive!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Upgraded to 4 gauge wire and 1200 watt amp,(from a 750) voltage stays above 12 now
so basically i figured out the hard way, 8 gauge is really only good for around 600 watts(when running 15+ ft of wire).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,684 Posts
its not, unless u are into "boom boom".

As long as the "boom boom" stays within the confines of your vehicle, I see no problem.


When the "boom boom" intrudes into the music in *my* vehicle, you're being nothing but a deliberately annoying douche.:eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
As long as the "boom boom" stays within the confines of your vehicle, I see no problem.


When the "boom boom" intrudes into the music in *my* vehicle, you're being nothing but a deliberately annoying douche.:eek:
why negativity? i posted here to help others who wanted to install a subwoofer into their bolt... I did quite a bit of research and made sure i did everything properly. The thread was intended to help others, who have never installed audio equipment before(like myself). If you have nothing positive to post or nothing helpful why even post? So the fact that you even posted in this thread makes you look like a deliberately annoying douche.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,684 Posts
why negativity? i posted here to help others who wanted to install a subwoofer into their bolt... I did quite a bit of research and made sure i did everything properly. The thread was intended to help others, who have never installed audio equipment before(like myself). If you have nothing positive to post or nothing helpful why even post? So the fact that you even posted in this thread makes you look like a deliberately annoying douche.

Not negativity at all. If the "annoying douche" behavior description doesn't apply to you, then my opinion of it should not bother you.


I stand behind my post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
I just referenced this post in the inverter thread on one possible way for 12V through the firewall. How did you route from there to the back?

On closer study, you might consider re-doing the 12V connection to the battery. The way it is now, if you get some impact damage in the hood area (say, a big tree branch falls on the front of the car, or some kind of accident), the relatively large red wire connected to the +12V terminal compresses and direct shorts to the top battery bracket (which has sharp edges there). There is no fuse protection between the 12V battery + terminal and the grounded battery bracket, and a 12V battery initiated fire is very likely. Another possible failure mode, is over some years of time and heat that red insulation over the battery bracket chafes and shorts, same really bad outcome.

A better way would be to somehow place the fuse closer to the terminal, so any crush damage to the red wire blows the fuse.

Original post 12V battery connection, pic copied here for quick reference:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I've gone mad MAD

Upgraded all 4 door speakers to alpines. I wasn't able to detach the top of the door panel, but u can remove the old speakers and install new ones still as i show in the pictures.
Make sure to put some foam tape on the metra speaker adapters or else there might be vibration. The foam backing on the stock OEM speaker adapter can carefully be removed and placed onto the new metra adapter

The Metra 82-3006 are the adapters you want for upgrading to better speakers in the bolt...

There are two screws that hold the door panels in place,one behind the door handle and one in the handle(check pics)

There's only one screw that holds the stock speaker in place, and a clip, so once you remove the screw, you will have to pry a little to get the stock speaker out.

I'm using a rockford fosgate prime 400-4d to power the rear door speakers, i'm unable to gain access to the front speaker wires before they enter the door(I might have to remove the whole front dash to find out how to access these wires :(), so they are still powered off the stock amplifier.
In the image labeled speaker wire... the bottom crimps are from the factory amp(this used to power power the rear door speaker) hooked up to a line output converter(to get the signal to the new amplifier)...The top wires are the the door speaker wires and the wires to the new amp.

2x Rockford Fosgate 1200
Rockford Fosgate 400-4D
NVX Capacitor...
Stinger Ground Terminal
a lot of 12 inch subwoofers
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Nip Tuck

I just referenced this post in the inverter thread on one possible way for 12V through the firewall. How did you route from there to the back? :
I tucked it under the panels, the quarter panel is removed in this pic
Red wire = 8 gauge +
Blue wire = 4 gauge +

Stinger Ground (-) terminal for serious power
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Is your range being affected by all that power draw?
Its a 2400+ watt system...
The bolt only has a 1600 watt inverter??... So i'm probably peaking at 2k watts??
i do run it full tilt on my 30 min drive to work every morning....so yeah probably
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
Its a 2400+ watt system...
The bolt only has a 1600 watt inverter??... So i'm probably peaking at 2k watts??
i do run it full tilt on my 30 min drive to work every morning....so yeah probably

Yikes. You only get one set of ears in this life.
Sounds awesome. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yikes. You only get one set of ears in this life.
Sounds awesome. :)
The subwoofers though i believe are not that hard on the ear drums, the low frequencies really dont hurt the ears.. i believe its high power at high frequencies that can cause hearing damage...is true yes??? i hoping so
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
The subwoofers though i believe are not that hard on the ear drums, the low frequencies really dont hurt the ears.. i believe its high power at high frequencies that can cause hearing damage...is true yes??? i hoping so

You said you had it all maxed out. Do you get any ringing in your ears after your commute? Any sort of muffled-ness? I don't think it's about low or high...it's just loud.

The half hour twice a day *might* be alright. At least it's not pounding it out for hours on end.

But hey...it's your life...your ears...not judging. Rock n roll.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
You said you had it all maxed out. Do you get any ringing in your ears after your commute? Any sort of muffled-ness? I don't think it's about low or high...it's just loud.

The half hour twice a day *might* be alright. At least it's not pounding it out for hours on end.

But hey...it's your life...your ears...not judging. Rock n roll.
I'm fine thanks, i only run it full tilt on the freeway, when im not bothering anyone else, in the city i turn off the woofers...
The main reason for changing the stock door speakers was for sound quality.
The subs though, they go boom boom, and it feeling good, I just like to feel the "power" ya know?

160 kw + 2 kw = 162 kw yeah baby
 
1 - 20 of 58 Posts
Top