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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I built a log cabin 20+ years ago which we visit mainly on the weekends.

I would like a 240V charging option while I am there. I have the Tesla UM Gen 2 that I can carry with me.

Given the log construction the electrical panel is hard to access for new circuits/wiring.
I can't easily get at the dryer plug directly.

I can get at several 240V lines through the crawl space, though.

These are the options I see given how my wiring is run:

1) Add a 40 or 50AMP breaker and a dedicated line which will require tear up some walls and combining circuits (Hardest)
2) Tap into the water heater line via the crawlspace (Easy)
3) Tap into the dryer line via the crawlspace (Moderate)
4) Tap into the oven line via the crawlspace (Moderate)

I saw the other thread about adding a relay.
Seems to me it would be easier to control keeping the oven or dryer off while charging than with the water heater.

Plus, the car can only get within about 30ft of the house so an extension cord will be involved somewhere.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks
 

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Seems you've thought this out pretty thoroughly already. Where is the breaker located in relation to where you want to charge your car? Is 240v even necessary for you to charge your vehicle sufficiently?

I've mentioned elsewhere that if there is an entire circuit you can do without, you can simply convert it to 240v. You'll still be limited to 12 amps.

There's also the option to combine 2 circuits that are on opposite phases using a Y adapter. You'll still be limited to 12 amps.

If the breaker is on an exterior wall, you could place an outdoor rated outlet outside without much hassle, and run the extension cord to your car.

Not knowing exactly how things are laid out there, I'm inclined toward your suggestion of tapping into the water heater with a relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Because the exterior walls are solid log, the panel is on an interior wall.
All the wall paneling around the electrical panel is tongue and groove which would be a real pain to remove.
I over-segmented my circuits thinking "what more could I possibly add?" when I wired this place so I used almost all of the circuits, many of which carry almost no potential load, so I could combine some.

The water heater is particularly convenient because it is in the crawl space with a cut off switch right next to it making it a convenient tie in location.

I probably could get by with a 15 or 20AMP 240V line but I'm just concerned I might need to make a quick trip down and back starting with a low battery requiring a faster charge or want to use it for a jumping off point for a larger trip. There are no DCFC near that location.

I study the relay thread a little more.

Thanks
 

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Would it be possible to add a subpanel? Running heavier gauge wire to the subpanel?
Possibly at some point between one of the other 240v loads (range, water heater, dryer, etc) so you could use the existing wiring from the sub to the appliance?

Or make the existing panel a subpanel by adding a small "main" panel between the service and current panel?

Trying to think outside the (tongue and groove) box...
 

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As redpoint5 suggested, the current rating for a given circuit is just as important as the voltage. But I would guess that your dryer circuit is 40 amps or more, and it's the one circuit you can tap into without disrupting life in your cabin. The water heater turns on and off automatically, so popping the breaker is too likely. You probably want to cook regularly, so the stove circuit is also questionable - and it may not be on a 40 amp circuit. If you set your Bolt for nighttime charging only, then you can turn on your dryer at any other time without popping the breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The dryer is only 30AMP
However, I should be able to get 5.7Kw with the Tesla Gen 2 Mobile Connector if I get the correct plug.


That would be a good idea to create a subpanel off of the dryer line.
I assume I can find a waterproof locking outside 14-30 receptacle.

I will need to get in the crawl space and see how easy it is to access that line.

All good ideas/suggestions. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That looks like it would be perfect. The dryer plug is interior and about 25 feet away from where I would want to mount an exterior receptacle; it looks like the "Upgrade PAK" might do the trick. Appears to be a small outfit sot I will measure everything and contact the vendor directly for a "custom build".

I like that idea.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was thinking about that. Thank you for the links.
I probably want the relay in an area that isn't near the exterior receptacle or the dryer receptacle. Making my own might be easier in the long run.

At best the receptacle outside (14-30 or 14-50 - haven't decided whether I want/can pull new wire easily) will still be 30-40 feet from where the car will be parked.

Is it better to make a 6# extension cord, buy a J1772 extension, or a tesla extension (is there such a thing?)?
Or does it matter?
 

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Well, if the price is similar, a J1772 extension would probably be more useful, as you will be able to use it when 'ICEd' at public charging spots. (Make sure to 'lock' your cable into the car! )
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So, I finally got back down to our cabin.

It will be impossible to get at the dryer wiring without pulling out a lot of wall paneling.
The water heater is accessible but it only gets me a 30Amp circuit.

Surprisingly, the easiest to get at is the range wiring.
It is on a 50AMP breaker with 6#.

I emailed the Dryer Buddy company to see if they have a 50Amp version; no response yet.
Or I guess I could build my own relay, but I like the metering available on the Dryer Buddy products.

Easiest would be for the relay to be in the crawl space but I could bring it up to a closet.

Any of this sound reasonable?

Thanks.
 

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So, I finally got back down to our cabin.

It will be impossible to get at the dryer wiring without pulling out a lot of wall paneling.
The water heater is accessible but it only gets me a 30Amp circuit.

Surprisingly, the easiest to get at is the range wiring.
It is on a 50AMP breaker with 6#.

I emailed the Dryer Buddy company to see if they have a 50Amp version; no response yet.
Or I guess I could build my own relay, but I like the metering available on the Dryer Buddy products.

Easiest would be for the relay to be in the crawl space but I could bring it up to a closet.

Any of this sound reasonable?

Thanks.
their website mentions an electric range buddy and even has a picture of one: https://www.bsaelectronics.com/coll...-order-waiting-for-build-to-4-color-kwh-meter

but can't seem to navigate their site to find one.

edit: google found it right away, https://www.bsaelectronics.com/prod...-50-cable-to-two-14-50-outlets-with-kwh-meter
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. I should have Googled and expected it to be called "Range Buddy".
I had cruised their website but didn't initially find it....

If I currently have a NEMA 10-30 (or 10-50) should/can I use a NEMA 6-30 (or 6-50) for the EV plugin as I assume I don't have a ground running with the supply that is already in place? I assume the NEMA 6 is more common than the NEMA 10 (and I want to minimize adapter plug types)?

Everyone's input is very helpful. Thanks.
 

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If I currently have a NEMA 10-30 (or 10-50) should/can I use a NEMA 6-30 (or 6-50) for the EV plugin as I assume I don't have a ground running with the supply that is already in place? I assume the NEMA 6 is more common than the NEMA 10 (and I want to minimize adapter plug types)?

Everyone's input is very helpful. Thanks.
NEMA 14 is standard now, but that requires an extra wire you don't have.

I don't see how you will change the plugs because NEMA 10 is hot-hot-neutral, which supplies both 120v and 240v. I'm not sure if your range needs 120v or not (light bulbs usually use 120v). NEMA 6 is hot-hot-ground and supplies only 240v.

I'm pretty sure EVSE requires a ground though... and I'm pretty sure your oven requires both 120v and 240v. You're probably best off getting a NEMA 10 adaptor for the EVSE and using neutral as your ground.

All of these ideas are probably code violations, so proceed at your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If anyone is interested, this is what I ended up doing.

As it turns out, I could easily plug/unplug my dryer and I could get a conduit into the dryer closet fairly easily. From there I ran conduit to a spot under my deck. I added a standard dryer cord on one end and a 10-30 water proof receptacle on the other. So, to charge the car I just need to unplug my dryer and plug in my exterior receptacle. If I find I do this often enough, I will consider building or purchasing a "Dryer Buddy" so I don't have to plug/unplug.


Took longer to do than it should but all told about $80 in parts.
 

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If anyone is interested, this is what I ended up doing.

As it turns out, I could easily plug/unplug my dryer and I could get a conduit into the dryer closet fairly easily. From there I ran conduit to a spot under my deck. I added a standard dryer cord on one end and a 10-30 water proof receptacle on the other. So, to charge the car I just need to unplug my dryer and plug in my exterior receptacle. If I find I do this often enough, I will consider building or purchasing a "Dryer Buddy" so I don't have to plug/unplug.


Took longer to do than it should but all told about $80 in parts.
Another example of "Electrical Codes are just a suggestion, are unnecessary, and have nothing to do with safety".

I hope you at least know the codes this install violates and have made an "educated guess" as to the risk/rewards associated with it.
 

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I'm the most likely to shirk safety systems, but this does rely on 2 things:

1. That people don't forget to disconnect the dryer while the EVSE is plugged in, and that they don't plug it in without verifying the EVSE is unplugged.
2. That the circuit breaker is operating correctly to trip in the event both are run at the same time.

Probably a risk I'd be willing to take, but I would test that the breaker actually trips before relying on it as the only failsafe to my own faulty memory.

I would not be likely to pay for a DryerBuddy, but I think I've seen people on here suggesting other smart DPDT relays that can be had for ~$40 that I'd be inclined to install, if for no other reason than I want to be lazy and not be plugging/unplugging things all the time.

Here's 1 thread on the subject:
https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/82-charging-batteries/30717-share-evse-waterheater.html
 
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