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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my 2017 Bolt Premier since January, and even though it has the upgraded Bose audio system, I needed more than that.

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And so it begins.

The end goal is a 4-way, fully active sound system using Dayton Audio drivers and DSP. Power will be provided by 3 MB-Quart amplifiers, 9 channels in total.

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I got a little ahead of myself, and forgot to take pictures before I started sound deadening. I added one layer of sound deadening, then reinstalled the stock sub and amplifier for the time being.

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In order to get enough space for the 2 12" subs, I decided on a fiberglass sub enclosure to maximize the small amount of space in the cargo area. I started off by masking off the area with green painter's tape.

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Next went a layer of 3/4" MDF, along with more painter's tape.

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I forgot to take pictures while I was laying the fiberglass mat and cloth in the spare tire well. I let the resin cure overnight, and then pulled the enclosure out of the car.


Due to the site's limit of 10 images, I will continue below in a separate post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Continuing on from the previous post,

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Here is the fiberglass enclosure curing in the sun.

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Here it is after sanding and filling with Bondo. After the filler cured, and the enclosure had been sanded, I sprayed it with pickup truck bed liner spray.

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Here is the beginnings of the amplifier rack. The majority of the equipment I am reusing from a previous installation from my 2018 Nissan Leaf.
As the Bolt has less cargo space in the rear, I plan on stacking the amplifier rack above the subwoofers while still trying to maintain a level load floor.

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Here is a close-up of the power distribution and fuse block.



More updates to come...
 

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Hey @MDBolt ....

Here is your next project.
This is a lofty aspirational project for me, based on my limited knowledge on the topic. Looks amazing, though. I’ll be more than happy just to watch this come together. Bookmarked and following!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi All,
My install has been stalled for the last couple of weeks waiting for my speakers to arrive from Parts express. Plus its been raining outside and I don't like working on the car in the rain!
I have been doing some homework in the meantime. I have managed to get a hold of the electrical diagrams for Both the Bose and "non bose" sound systems. I have attached them to this post.

I was able to Bribe my mechanic friend with a bottle of wine, to download the Wiring diagram for the Bolt Media system from the Mitchell on demand online database.
These are for the 2017 Premier and LT model.Prior and later models might be the same but I don't know for sure.
As you will see from the attached drawings, here are the colour codes you will need to extract the preamp signals to drive an aftermarket amplifier/s or signal processors

left front +: blue
Left front - : brown / blue
right front + : yellow
right front - : blue / brown
left rear + : green / black
left rear - : brown / violet
right rear + : brown / white
right rear - : blue / black
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amplifier control: violet / blue
12 volt Batt positive : red / white

I am not sure of the type of signal present on the amplifier control wire, I assume it is a canbus signal. I didn't look too closely as I don't need it for my system. My signal processor will turn on the amplifiers when it sees audio on its inputs.
All of the wires can be found in the wiring loom that goes to the Bose amplifier in the " spare tire" well. I have attached a picture of what the loom looks like "Post surgery" after the RCA cables were soldered to the wiring loom
Colour codes should be read as: main colour of wire / stripe colour.
I have tested all four of the outputs with both an oscilloscope and an NTI audio measurement kit and they measure over 7 volts peak to peak before clipping.
The signals are also flat from 20hz to 20khz. There doesn't seem to be any signal processing before the signal reaches the amplifier.
I also could not measure any low frequency roll-off at higher volume levels. A lot of factory systems will reduce the bass as you crank up the volume control in order to not overdrive the factory speakers.
Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to provide any info I can.


Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #11
@tk1971
You are welcome, and thanks for looking into the trigger wire. Did you happen to notice what triggers it?
I assume it gets triggered when the power to the head unit is turned on, but it also must have a trigger from the body control module as all the door chimes and warning noises come through the speakers.
 

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@tk1971
You are welcome, and thanks for looking into the trigger wire. Did you happen to notice what triggers it?
I assume it gets triggered when the power to the head unit is turned on, but it also must have a trigger from the body control module as all the door chimes and warning noises come through the speakers.
Yep, tracing the Green/Yllw wire from page 4 of the pdf back to page 1 shows that the wire comes from the "Radio" which I assume is the head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi All,
I managed to carve out some time to make progress in the install. The next task was to run the speaker wires for the drivers side along with the 0 gauge power wire to the front of the car.
I found it easiest to remove the drivers seat and door surround trim. removal of both was very straight forward so I did not document it. The only modification to the car was two holes through the reinforcing beam behind the rear seat .
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I cut holes on both the drivers side and passenger side .Passenger side will be for passenger side speaker wiring and remote subwoofer level control wiring.
I sleeved the speaker wire bundle in techflex to keep them neat.

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Power wire was run beside the factory wiring. Speaker wires were run inside the factory wiring tray. The rear door wiring splits off the main loom at the B pillar and feeds through the stock wiring boot. The front door speaker wiring does the same at the kick panel. The tweeter and midrange wiring follows factory wiring up into the dash. The power wire passes through a stock Rubber grommet on the firewall




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It then follows factory wiring up to the 12v battery location.
Next will be the mounting of the circuit breaker and termination of the battery cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
More work complete:
In order to install and uninstall the subwoofer enclosure, the speaker baffle ( front panel) and fiberglass tub need to be two seperate pieces . The tub has a MDF flange and the baffle will be a laminate of: 1/2" mdf then a layer of dynamat ,then another layer of 1/2" mdf, then a layer of Carbon fiber cloth. The baffle will be bolted to the tub's flange with machine screws. The flange has had threaded inserts embedded into it. There will be a gasket between the flange and the back side of the baffle. I have never made a two piece, sealed subwoofer cabinet before , so here's hoping the gasket idea works......

I realize , that from a distance , the Tub looks like a giant, burnt baked potato........
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Here are the tub and first layer of the baffle bolted together.

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