[TimBolt]

Nobody is twisting anyone's arm. It's your car and you can do or not do whatever you like.
I certainly know what I'll be doing. You can believe whatever you like. Posting childish drivel
is also your choice. It just shows how closed off some people can be. How far they can bury
their heads in the sand. That's also your choice.

Common sense isn't common. Lifetime fluids are..........LOL! YMMV! I own my Bolt.

I've seen this lifetime fluid marketing BS first hand. I've also seen the damage it can do.

Happy Motoring

I believe in evidence based automotive maintenance, please share your evidence for the necessity of performing transmission fluid changes on the Bolt at the mileage interval you’ve determined is appropriate.

I’m willing to concede that no automotive fluid is “lifetime”, but absent any documentation of fluid contamination or breakdown at a given mileage, any recommended fluid change interval is simply a wild guess, whether it’s every 10, 50, 100, or 500k miles.

If changing the transmission fluid at, say, 25k miles is prudent, why is that better than 50k or 100k, or worse than 10k?

Childish minds want to know.

 

[drdiesel1]

I believe in evidence based automotive maintenance, please share your evidence for the necessity of performing transmission fluid changes on the Bolt at the mileage interval you’ve determined is appropriate.

I’m willing to coincide that no automotive fluid is “lifetime”, but absent any documentation of fluid contamination or breakdown at a given mileage, any recommended fluid change interval is simply a wild guess, whether it’s every 10, 50, 100, or 500k miles.

If changing the transmission fluid at, say, 25k miles is prudent, why is that better than 50k or 100k, or worse than 10k?

Childish minds want to know.

If you would have read my post, it's simple. Break in of a gearbox, any gearbox produces metal.
The longer that metal runs though the bearings, the shorter the bearing life. It's simple!
While it may not cause a catastrophic failure, it's still causing avoidable damage.

A quart of trans fluid is cheap. It's a simple drain and fill. The trans has no filter and anything
in the fluid can't be filtered. Why be so staunch against a preventative service for such a small cost.

It's not a clutch operated trans, so it won't need regular services.
It's a service to remove the contaminates produced from break in only!

 

[Cataract2]

Two different videos and yes, these are Fords. Other makes have the same deal. You do you though. Myself, the fluid isn't expensive and/or hard to change. I consider it cheap insurance.

 

[GJETSON]

The trans has no filter and anything
in the fluid can't be filtered.

The gearbox does have a filter, and a magnet.

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/oem-p...nNtaXNzaW9uJmk9JnI9JmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89Ym9sdC1ldiZ5PTIwMTcmdD1sdCZlPWVsZWN0cmlj

But replacing it requires pulling the side off the case...not something undertaken lightly. You can see it in Prof. Kelly's video too.

https://youtu.be/APhRPSdmdmk?t=1588

Replacing the ATF seems relatively easy, and well worth considering, if you actually intend to keep the Bolt. For those who change cars, like socks, it won't matter.

 

[TimBolt]

If you would have read my post, it's simple. Break in of a gearbox, any gearbox produces metal.
The longer that metal runs though the bearings, the shorter the bearing life. It's simple!
While it may not cause a catastrophic failure, it's still causing avoidable damage.

A quart of trans fluid is cheap. It's a simple drain and fill. The trans has no filter and anything
in the fluid can't be filtered. Why be so staunch against a preventative service for such a small cost.

It's not a clutch operated trans, so it won't need regular services.
It's a service to remove the contaminates produced from break in only!

OK, you posted earlier that you plan on changing your transmission fluid at 35k miles. Aren’t you worried that you’ve been circulating all those metal filings from break-in for two years? Isn’t a “break-in” service supposed to be done right after break-in, at a very low mileage?

 

[Raymondjram]

Let the posters change the fluid as they wish. It is their loss. My 50 years of ownership and maintenance experiences (a 1967 Old Cutlass Supreme was my first) has proven me that GM transmissions are the best in the world (Prof. Kelley has proven that). I have NEVER seen or read of any GM vehicle with a bad transmission. My previous GM vehicles all lasted twenty years or more, and two had one transmission fluid change during my ownership, which I did it myself. The 1995 Buick Regal, which had one change, is still running under a new ownership.

I saved hundreds of dollars and I expect to keep saving with my 2009 Chevy Equinox. In its ten years it had just one engine oil change every year (with Mobil 1 synthetic), and in February 2019 it had is first and only engine coolant change by the GM dealer. Nothing else has been needed, and has no fluid leaks.

GM still builds the best and longest lasting vehicles!

 

[wonderbolt]

The gearbox does have a filter, and a magnet.

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/oem-p...nNtaXNzaW9uJmk9JnI9JmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89Ym9sdC1ldiZ5PTIwMTcmdD1sdCZlPWVsZWN0cmlj

But replacing it requires pulling the side off the case...not something undertaken lightly. You can see it in Prof. Kelly's video too.

https://youtu.be/APhRPSdmdmk?t=1588

Replacing the ATF seems relatively easy, and well worth considering, if you actually intend to keep the Bolt. For those who change cars, like socks, it won't matter.

Right, you beat me to it and here is the magnet the link to the magnet in the teardown video.

In the FWIW department, I come down the middle on this one, many of these points have already been made but in summary:

• Lubed for life is lubed for warranty life. GM has extreme confidence that the magnet will trap the break in wear metal particles, I concur 100%
• The oil does cool the motor but the extreme high temperatures it is subjected to are lower than a typical transmission hooked to an ICE, heat and contaminants are what degrade the oil
• The Bolt has no friction wear parts like a typical transmission with a torque converter
• People have a tendency to want to draw parallels to something familiar, a toyota "sludge monster" A BMW final drive, an ICE transmission. None of these are relevant as there are more examples of engines and transmissions with extended drain intervals that are just fine. A Bolt transaxle is not a typical transmission.
• Transmission fluid is relatively inexpensive and and cheap insurance IF you plan on keeping the vehicle for 200k or more miles. therefore I personally would advise the OP to change it at 100k and send a sample to blackstone for analysis. Depending on the results I might then plan to change it every 100k. I will even chip in $10 towards it if he shares the results with us. (PM me)
• Personally, in my experience, all the things I worried about automotive related probably didn't matter as the car was sold or traded. My '97 Saturn SW2 had 170k miles on it when I traded it in, and it still looked brand new, but alas living in the North East the frame had rotted to where you could poke your fingers through it.

My advice to the OP is, whatever you decide, enjoy your Bolt and don't worry about it, you have an excellent variety of opinions in this thread, from lots of well intended individuals, which I assume none of which worked on the design of the Bolt and none of which have seen the GM durability test data on the Bolt powertrain. Our advice is worth exactly what you paid for it ;-)

 

[drdiesel1]

The gearbox does have a filter, and a magnet.

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/oem-p...nNtaXNzaW9uJmk9JnI9JmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89Ym9sdC1ldiZ5PTIwMTcmdD1sdCZlPWVsZWN0cmlj

But replacing it requires pulling the side off the case...not something undertaken lightly. You can see it in Prof. Kelly's video too.

https://youtu.be/APhRPSdmdmk?t=1588

Replacing the ATF seems relatively easy, and well worth considering, if you actually intend to keep the Bolt. For those who change cars, like socks, it won't matter.

Yeah, I didn't add that information because it requires you do open the side to access.
Changing the fluid is very easy Thanks for the links!
That magnet requires trans removal to service.

 

[drdiesel1]

OK, you posted earlier that you plan on changing your transmission fluid at 35k miles. Aren’t you worried that you’ve been circulating all those metal filings from break-in for two years? Isn’t a “break-in” service supposed to be done right after break-in, at a very low mileage?

Yep! I waited because the rate of wear isn't like a differential.
Otherwise I would have done it @ 1000 miles, like I do on my motorcycles.
Some think it's a waste of time and money. On my vehicles, I don't. YMMV!

Look at all those bearings in the video links that we posted. It's worth it to me :x

 

[strouthesm]

I'm hoping there will still be engineers old enough to remember this by the time it becomes necessary to change the fluid! LOL

 

[TimBolt]

Yep! I waited because the rate of wear isn't like a differential.
Otherwise I would have done it @ 1000 miles, like I do on my motorcycles.
Some think it's a waste of time and money. On my vehicles, I don't. YMMV!

Look at all those bearings in the video links that we posted. It's worth it to me :x

Then what is the rate of wear like? Is it time at 35k, and why is that the right interval?

As many have said, if it’s an easy and low cost maintenance item there’s certainly no harm, but I just get the feeling that the principle benefit will be psychological, not mechanical.

 

[drdiesel1]

Then what is the rate of wear like? Is it time at 35k, and why is that the right interval?

As many have said, if it’s an easy and low cost maintenance item there’s certainly no harm, but I just get the feeling that the principle benefit will be psychological, not mechanical.

Look, I'm a tech. I service cars all day long. Granted I do all computer work and electrical
at work. I do my own stuff at home. When you open a differential for service @ 25K miles
and it's silver, it tells you something. Unless you do this type of work, you'll never understand, WHY!

Common sense isn't all that common. You can lead a horse to water, but, you can't make him drink. I did my diff., my trans, my power steering, my coolant and brake fluid @ 25K miles. It was 4 months past the 2 year mark on my truck. These are requirements.
Looking at these fluids tells you a lot that menu's and schedules don't.

While the Bolt trans isn't a required service by GM, it's a no brainer for me. Metal is metal
and it's not good for bearings. Have a look at the amount of bearings inside the Bolt's trans
in those video's from Weber.

Like I said earlier. My 2013 BMW GS Adventure has a final drive that's claimed to be a lifetime fill. I seviced it @ 1K miles. I had to service it 5 times before it started to stay metal free.
What you don't understand is, that's only covered for 36 months under the standard warranty program. Sure the Bolt has an 8 year warranty for the electrical aspects, but if a bearing fails after the standard warranty period, are you gonna be happy paying $7K for a new one ?

It's dead simple. Service the thing with 30 bucks worth of fluid so you can flush out the metal.
It's your car. Do as you please. Stop trying to rationalize being a cheapskate with me. Drive your car and be happy. IDC about your car and it's health or longevity. That's your problem.

I own my Bolt and refuse to be a cheap ass.
The only cheap part is the cheap insurance factor, from replacing cheap fluids.

As far as other members go, if one person understands why, it's a good thing. Please stop trying
to convince others to follow the cheap train because you think is the way to go. Happy Motoring!

 

[TimBolt]

Look, I'm a tech. I service cars all day long. Granted I do all computer work and electrical
at work. I do my own stuff at home. When you open a differential for service @ 25K miles
and it's silver, it tells you something. Unless you do this type of work, you'll never understand, WHY!

Common sense isn't all that common. You can lead a horse to water, but, you can't make him drink. I did my diff., my trans, my power steering, my coolant and brake fluid @ 25K miles. It was 4 months past the 2 year mark on my truck. These are requirements.
Looking at these fluids tells you a lot that menu's and schedules don't.

While the Bolt trans isn't a required service by GM, it's a no brainer for me. Metal is metal
and it's not good for bearings. Have a look at the amount of bearings inside the Bolt's trans
in those video's from Weber.

Like I said earlier. My 2013 BMW GS Adventure has a final drive that's claimed to be a lifetime fill. I seviced it @ 1K miles. I had to service it 5 times before it started to stay metal free.
What you don't understand is, that's only covered for 36 months under the standard warranty program. Sure the Bolt has an 8 year warranty for the electrical aspects, but if a bearing fails after the standard warranty period, are you gonna be happy paying $7K for a new one ?

It's dead simple. Service the thing with 30 bucks worth of fluid so you can flush out the metal.
It's your car. Do as you please. Stop trying to rationalize being a cheapskate with me. Drive your car and be happy. IDC about your car and it's health or longevity. That's your problem.

I own my Bolt and refuse to be a cheap ass.
The only cheap part is the cheap insurance factor, from replacing cheap fluids.

As far as other members go, if one person understands why, it's a good thing. Please stop trying
to convince others to follow the cheap train because you think is the way to go. Happy Motoring!

It’s not a question of being cheap, it’s a question of whether there’s any real benefit to changing the Bolt’s transmission fluid at 35k miles. You believe that there is, and that’s fine. I believe that it’s completely unnecessary and a waste of time, and that’s also fine.

Every owner can make up their own mind as to what maintenance service is appropriate for their Bolt, especially when it comes to maintenance for items with no set maintenance schedule from GM.

By the way, the electric drive unit and all internal parts are covered for eight years and 100,000 miles, not three years 36,000 miles. You can check your Bolt warranty to verify this coverage:

Electric/Hybrid Drive Unit

Electric drive unit assembly electric motors, and all internal components, including the auxiliary fluid pump, auxiliary pump controller, electric motor, and 3-phase cables.

 

[drdiesel1]

It’s not a question of being cheap, it’s a question of whether there’s any real benefit to changing the Bolt’s transmission fluid at 35k miles. You believe that there is, and that’s fine. I believe that it’s completely unnecessary and a waste of time, and that’s also fine.

Every owner can make up their own mind as to what maintenance service is appropriate for their Bolt, especially when it comes to maintenance for items with no set maintenance schedule from GM.

By the way, the electric drive unit and all internal parts are covered for eight years and 100,000 miles, not three years 36,000 miles. You can check your Bolt warranty to verify this coverage:

Electric/Hybrid Drive Unit

Electric drive unit assembly electric motors, and all internal components, including the auxiliary fluid pump, auxiliary pump controller, electric motor, and 3-phase cables.

Where is the statement about bearings ? Do you really believe it's not an issue if a bearing fails ?
I'm tired of beating this to death with you interweb know it alls.... Good luck to you!

 

[TimBolt]

Where is the statement about bearings ? Do you really believe it's not an issue if a bearing fails ?
I'm tired of beating this to death with you interweb know it alls.... Good luck to you!

The entire drive assembly is covered, as in “all internal parts”. The bearings are internal parts, inside the drive assembly, which is a single unit.

I’ve provided the exact wording of the warranty straight from the owners manual.

You can believe whatever you want, but GM’s stating that “all internal parts” are covered is good enough for me. That’s simply everything inside the drive assembly, motor, bearings, gears, etc...

 

[drdiesel1]

the entire drive assembly is covered, as in “all internal parts”. The bearings are internal parts, inside the drive assembly, which is a single unit.

I’ve provided the exact wording of the warranty straight from the owners manual.

You can believe whatever you want, but gm’s stating that “all internal parts” are covered is good enough for me. That’s simply everything inside the drive assembly, motor, bearings, gears, etc...

lol!

 

[Goose]

This thread got me curious to look up the warranty for the transmission.
I did some digging up and found this under powertrain:

Taken directly from the warranty manual (Canadian models):

Powertrain Component Warranty Coverage 5 years/100,000km
Chevrolet Volt,Bolt EV, Malibu Hybrid Warranty 8 years/160,000km

Transmission/Transaxle Coverage
includes: All internally lubricated
parts, case, torque converter,
mounts, seals, and gaskets as well
as any electrical components
internal to the transmission/
transaxle. Also covered are any
actuators directly connected to the
transmission (slave cylinder, etc.).

Exclusions: Excluded from the
powertrain coverage are
transmission cooling lines, hoses,
radiator, sensors, wiring, and
electrical connectors. Also excluded
are the clutch and pressure plate as
well as any Transmission Control
Module and/or module
programming.

Transfer Case Coverage includes:
All internally lubricated parts, case,
mounts, seals, and gaskets as well
as any electrical components
internal to the transfer case. Also
covered are any actuators directly
connected to the transfer case as
well as encoder motor.

Exclusions: Excluded from the
powertrain coverage are transfer
case cooling lines, hoses, radiator,
sensors, wiring, and electrical
connectors as well as the transfer
case control module and/or module
programming

The only info regarding bearings that are not covered are wheel bearings. Those do not fall under power train warranty. It's weird because I also owned Nissan and Infiniti cars and they include wheel bearings as part of the power train warranty yet GM does not. To me it's not the usual wear and tear item like brake pads, brake rotors, and clutch.

This is as stated in the manual:

Drive Systems Coverage
includes: All internally lubricated
parts, final drive housings, axle
shafts and bearings, constant
velocity joints, propeller shafts and
universal joints. All mounts,
supports, seals, and gaskets as well
as any electrical components
internal to the drive axle. Also
covered are any actuators directly
connected to the drive axle (e.g.,
front differential actuator).

Exclusions: Excluded from the
powertrain coverage are all wheel
bearings, drive wheel front and rear
hub bearings, locking hubs, drive
system cooling, lines, hoses,
radiator, sensors, wiring, and
electrical connectors related to drive
systems as well as any drive system
control module and/or module
programming.

Cheers!

 

[drdiesel1]

Yep! It's all covered. I never want to have an issue and feel changing it after break-in is a beneficial service. At least the one time service will make my long term ownership feel less worrisome.

Lifetime fluids just make no sense to me. A fluid change is a very minimal maintenance item.
When I do this, I'll post an image of the material that comes out and into the drain pan.
I've seen it before. I've done it before. My final drive was full of metal to the point of turning silver.
I can't find the pictures so you can see for yourself. We shall see what the Bolt looks like

I plan to run mine past the warranty, so why not take care if it. If you don't care about it
after the warranty period, that great for you. I have long term plans for this car. YMMV!

 

[Cataract2]

Yep! It's all covered. I never want to have an issue and feel changing it after break-in is a beneficial service. At least the one time service will make my long term ownership feel less worrisome.

Lifetime fluids just make no sense to me. A fluid change is a very minimal maintenance item.
When I do this, I'll post an image of the material that comes out and into the drain pan.
I've seen it before. I've done it before. My final drive was full of metal to the point of turning silver.
I can't find the pictures so you can see for yourself. We shall see what the Bolt looks like

I plan to run mine past the warranty, so why not take care if it. If you don't care about it
after the warranty period, that great for you. I have long term plans for this car. YMMV!

And I can agree with you on this. Lifetime, never have to change, fluid just doesn't really exist in this application. Extended change interval though does make sense. We don't have the combustion byproducts or heat contaminating the fluid. We do have bearings and a few gears causing shear. So while we don't have to change it like an ICE vehicle, we do need to change it. I figure a fluid change at 35,000 to 50,000 miles or somewhere in there just makes sense.

 

[TDI-Guy]

And I can agree with you on this. Lifetime, never have to change, fluid just doesn't really exist in this application. Extended change interval though does make sense. We don't have the combustion byproducts or heat contaminating the fluid. We do have bearings and a few gears causing shear. So while we don't have to change it like an ICE vehicle, we do need to change it. I figure a fluid change at 35,000 to 50,000 miles or somewhere in there just makes sense.

If you ever get around to doing that. can you post a quick DIY?

Thanks.