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Hi, I can not find DEXRON HP ATF on the market. They beat me to it DEXRON 212B. According to the label on the bottle, it is compatible with mine 2017 BOLT EV Premier on 100 000 km.
Ray,
Kenetic is correct. On their website Mobil 1 says it's licensed and approved by GM and is $14.44/qt on Amazon. It may also be more widely available. ACDelco 212B or Delco number 10-4121 (gotta love those Delco guys) is not available on Amazon or Walmart. Rockauto lists it for $15.57/qt but, of course you pay shipping of around $10 for a quart!!! or $12 for four quarts. I'm a GM kinda guy and will probably pony up unless I can find it cheaper somewhere else.
 
Hello everyone. Has any one succeeded in "commanding the transmission fluid pump" to run for 1min? I've been looking for enhanced (bi-directional) scan tools that will be able to issue this command but haven't come up with anything. I'd like to change this fluid but I don't want to pay GM hundreds of dollars for an oil change when I could be putting that money into tools (a scan-tool) that will be useful for other jobs and doing it myself. Any guidance would be appreciated.
 
Hello everyone. Has any one succeeded in "commanding the transmission fluid pump" to run for 1min? I've been looking for enhanced (bi-directional) scan tools that will be able to issue this command but haven't come up with anything. I'd like to change this fluid but I don't want to pay GM hundreds of dollars for an oil change when I could be putting that money into tools (a scan-tool) that will be useful for other jobs and doing it myself. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Just get in and drive it around the block. The only reason it needs to run is that there is a gravity-fed chamber that drips fluid down both sides of the transaxle and when you fill, the fluid likely will pool on one side more than the other. It needs to run long enough for this to equalize so that both sides have equal levels of fluid and then you check at the fill bolt that you are getting a slow drip. It is supposed to be checked at 95 deg. F too so that you take into account the expansion of the fluid. You could use a simple $10 IR thermometer and get close enough. If it isn't up to temp drive some more and recheck.
 
Just get in and drive it around the block. The only reason it needs to run is that there is a gravity-fed chamber that drips fluid down both sides of the transaxle and when you fill, the fluid likely will pool on one side more than the other. It needs to run long enough for this to equalize so that both sides have equal levels of fluid and then you check at the fill bolt that you are getting a slow drip. It is supposed to be checked at 95 deg. F too so that you take into account the expansion of the fluid. You could use a simple $10 IR thermometer and get close enough. If it isn't up to temp drive some more and recheck.
Thanks for that input. Where did you learn about the fluid reservoir balancing? From my experience though it'll take a lot more than a drive around the block to bring the fluid temperature up to that number. I've been monitoring temps of the motor, trans fluid, and the rest of the powertrain while I tow my boat and it takes quite a while to bring the temp up 15-20degC, and I don't know how comfortable I feel about running it for that long with a questionable fluid level.
 
I agree! Lifetime fill is total crap. I plan to change mine at 35K miles.
Have you done the Trans axle fluid change? i called the stealer ship yesterday, told me the regular maintenance calls for radiator fluid flush is all at 125K mi. I told them the Chevy dealer did it when they replaced the battery. Then proceed to quote me $345 to change Trans Axle fluid. maybe 3-4 QT is all right?
 
Instead of engaging in endless debate about the transmission oil, why doesn't someone just do it and report on the procedure, how hard it is to do, and what the fluid looked like. Jeeez
I'm trolling this forum looking for the same thing. however hard to identify the drain bolt and refill bolt. I bought mine with 125k mi. I'm at 130k mi. getting worried a bit.
 
Yeah! I did it about 5 years ago. There are two drain plugs on the case.
It had plenty of metalflake suspended in the oil. I used 3 QTS.
How long did you have to drive around before both sides of the reservoir were balanced?

It's a 2.7 Qt. capacity, most put in 3 Qts. and then a little drains out upon being balanced from the fluid level plug.

Is this what you did?
 
How long did you have to drive around before both sides of the reservoir were balanced?

It's a 2.7 Qt. capacity, most put in 3 Qts. and then a little drains out upon being balanced from the fluid level plug.

Is this what you did?
I drained it and refilled it with 3 Qts. Done! Drove it 75K miles and gave it back to GM (y)
 
I changed the fluid today. Only has about 15000-16000 on the odometer, but I autocross it so I wanted to see if heat and stuff had any effect... The answer is NO. It still looked fresh.

As for letting the system cycle, while it was safely on all four jackstands, I simply turned the car on and put it in drive... It trundled at 4mph on the speedometer and I let it do that for 5-10 minutes; then I went for a drive.

I am going to extend the service to every 35000 miles. Although I can probably go longer, given the spirited driving I do I will err on the side of caution / cheap insurance... The labor is free (as I do the job) and the fluid is under $20 a quart.
 
I changed the fluid today. Only has about 5000-16000 on the odometer, but I autocross it so I wanted to see if heat and stuff had any effect... The answer is NO. It still looked fresh.

As for letting the system cycle, while it was safely on all four jackstands, I simply turned the car on and put it in drive... It trundled at 4mph on the speedometer and I let it do that for 5-10 minutes; then I went for a drive.

I am going to extend the service to every 35000 miles. Although I can probably go longer, given the spirited driving I do I will err on the side of caution / cheap insurance... The labor is free (as I do the job) and the fluid is under $20 a quart.
How many qts does it take? Did u drain both under tranny bolts?
 
How many qts does it take? Did u drain both under tranny bolts?
UPDATED FOR CLARITY

You buy 3 quarts, you put 3 quarts in and perhaps .25 to .3 quarts drains out the fluid level hole (about 2" above the driver side drain bolt) ... So, the car keeps approx 2.7 quarts.

Yes, they're only like 6" apart from one another and the passenger side points at the ground while the driver's side sits perpendicular to the ground.

I also jacked the car up on 4 jackstands and put a level across the bottom of the bumper by the lower air inlet to make sure the car was as level as possible L --> R (I know it was okay F --> R). I did this because of the nature of having to fill transmissions and transaxles over the years, the best way to do that service is on a proper lift in a shop (or a wealthy friend's garage :p) or to jack the whole car up on a flat surface.

Also, pro tip... Loosen the FILL BOLT FIRST (passenger side of transaxle), the rationale being if you can't get that off, then at least you still have fluid in the gearbox. You'll need a swivel and 12" extension on a 14mm socket to get in there.

Lastly, there are NO CRUSH WASHERS at all. Just tighten them down until they're tight (I didn't use a torque wrench) BUT I did let the car sit for 10-15 minutes after doing the entire fluid change to see if any fluid seeped out of any of the holes before I put that aero shield back on.
 
...Also, pro tip... Loosen the FILL BOLT FIRST (passenger side of transaxle), the rationale being if you can't get that off, then at least you still have fluid in the gearbox...
Reminds me of the very first time I changed my engine oil. I drained it first, before I realized that I didn't have the right tool to remove the oil filter...

No, I didn't put the dirty oil back in. But it was a really long bike ride to the auto parts store...🤣
 
I wouldn't call preventative maintenance a loss! More than anything, I'm a technician and it
makes perfect sense to me to service any gearbox/transmission on any vehicle.
Break In of all gearboxes produces metal. The differential on my truck is 18 feet from
the engine. I serviced it @ 25K miles and it was full of metal from gear wear in.

As stated already. The traction motor gears have shear. These gears are not impervious to
break in and wear. This adds materials to the fluids that lubricate the bearings. By flushing
those particles out with the fluid, you prolong bearing life. Whether you believe it or not.
In the dismantle video (linked above), he shows there's about 28 moving parts in the four-gear reduction ratio gearbox/differential. If they clean all the parts before they go in, and account for break-in wear during manufacturing, then that simple of a gearbox won't need fluid changes as often.
 
I'm trolling this forum looking for the same thing. however hard to identify the drain bolt and refill bolt. I bought mine with 125k mi. I'm at 130k mi. getting worried a bit.
It's shown in the YouTube video at the top of this thread!
 
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