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Discussion Starter #1
2019 bolt with 15k miles. The “guess-o-meter” shows that I’m driving all the way in the yellow at 66mph. Slow and steady is a normal driving habit. Never really changes as I have a very standard boring commute. Tried everything to bring it up. Turned off all environmental and the display. Tried drafting a truck. Nothing worked. I went from expecting 65 miles remaining when I got home to 22 actual. Even checked energy data. Nothing. No real headwind and ~70°F. Anyone else have this happen or have an explanation?
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Well, one must remember that the GOM computes the estimate based on the last few tens kilometres/miles.
Therefore, if this is a one time observation, it may be anecdotal, especially since your scoring screen shows nothing unusual.
Has this been persisting?
 

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Well, one must remember that the GOM computes the estimate based on the last few tens kilometres/miles.
Therefore, if this is a one time observation, it may be anecdotal, especially since your scoring screen shows nothing unusual.
Has this been persisting?
No, thank goodness. I got home, charged it up 100% and had no issues today. Maybe the equivalent of turning it off and back on again?
I agree with you, I just have never seen the estimator bar stuck all the way down. Like I was driving 85mph. And the fact it was accompanied by an actual loss of range was concerning.
 

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glad it did not repeat, if it happens again hit the arrow to the next screen over where it shows the bar graph of efficiency in five mile divisions. My guess was a headwind you did not feel in combination with an uphill. Sometimes it is difficult to perceive efficiency hits while driving.
 

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Yellow bar all the way down is just a relative reference to your recent driving consumption vs. your current consumption. It’s down.

I drive half city and half freeway to work. The city part always pushes green after freeway driving. The freeway part always pushes yellow after city driving. I see his all the time. It’s very normal.

The only time driving 65+ mph won’t show a yellow bar downward is after 30-50 miles of driving at consistent speeds.

The yellow and green bars are recent trend lines vs. previous efficiencies. There’s nothing wrong with your car.
 

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According to the range impacts screen, you're only a bit below the EPA rating. Make sure A/C and heat are off (and the defogger) and you'll be right at the average. Which is pretty normal for 65mph. Drop to 55mph and you'll do somewhat better.
 

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Make sure auto defog setting is off. If it was humid, and that is set to on, you can have the AC, and the heater running full blast without any HVAC set on the dash.

 

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I drive mine like I stole it and I've got half of LAPD and 3 choppers following me so I see that a lot. On the freeway, which is about 30 miles of my daily commute it's always in that position, even down hill doing 94. I only drive about 70 miles on a tank of electrons so I don't pay any attention to what the GOM says beyond making sure it has a 3 digit number.
 

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I've found that changing climate control settings can really confuse the GOM for a short period depending on what you are switching to/from. Just give it a little time to catch up.

Mike
 

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The range estimate "80 mi" is an estimate based on a longer period of driving - it's weighted by things like temperature, HVAC usage, your average consumption during previous charge cycles, and so on. The yellow bar that extends below it (and the green bar that extends above) are shorter term indications that tell you that your very recent driving (last several minutes) has been giving you worse (or better) efficiency. You'll see this bar going down (or up) if you encounter driving conditions that are different from your longer term average. For example, here in mountainous British Columbia the bar is going up and down all the time as I drive up and down hills.

None of this stuff is an indication of the health of the battery - it just tells you how efficient your driving has been, longer and shorter term, and giving you a range estimate based on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, all. The auto defogger tip was helpful. Didn’t know that was a thing. Regardless if it played a part in the depletion or not, there is little doubt it affects range overall. So far, no repeat.
 

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I noticed you were driving in “D” mode. I haven’t found any reason not to always drive in “L” mode. That will gain you some extra range plus save brake wear.
 

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I noticed you were driving in “D” mode. I haven’t found any reason not to always drive in “L” mode. That will gain you some extra range plus save brake wear.
I'm as big a proponent of "L" mode as anyone, it's the only forward driving mode I ever use. But it's a myth that it saves on the brakes. When you press the brake pedal in "D" mode you get just as much braking effect due to regen as you do in "L" mode, the hydraulic brakes only start to engage when you're trying to decelerate beyond the car's regen capability. I confirmed this for myself by driving down a steep hill multiple times in "D", "L" and "N" and found that there wasn't any difference in regen kW between "D" and "L".

So with respect to the brakes, the only real advantage of "L" mode is that you know for sure when you're using the brakes, as opposed to "D" mode where you might be using the brakes if you stomp too hard on the brake pedal. The car's full regen provides a very strong braking effect, so you'd only actually wear the brakes if you're in the habit of really hitting the brake pedal hard on a regular basis.
 

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I'm as big a proponent of "L" mode as anyone, it's the only forward driving mode I ever use. But it's a myth that it saves on the brakes. When you press the brake pedal in "D" mode you get just as much braking effect due to regen as you do in "L" mode, the hydraulic brakes only start to engage when you're trying to decelerate beyond the car's regen capability. I confirmed this for myself by driving down a steep hill multiple times in "D", "L" and "N" and found that there wasn't any difference in regen kW between "D" and "L".

So with respect to the brakes, the only real advantage of "L" mode is that you know for sure when you're using the brakes, as opposed to "D" mode where you might be using the brakes if you stomp too hard on the brake pedal. The car's full regen provides a very strong braking effect, so you'd only actually wear the brakes if you're in the habit of really hitting the brake pedal hard on a regular basis.
I just know that on my daily commute I often make the entire trip only using the brakes to start the car.
 
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