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OP check with your local power utility as they might have a rebate program running for approved EVSE's.

I purchased a Juicebox Pro 40 for $550 and got a rebate check for $500 back from my utility. Juicebox is a well respected brand with a good warranty and high quality components. I used mine on my Bolt (from 2017 up to 2020 when I sold it), never a hiccup. Still use it on my i3 (charging at 32amps), I've used it on our Model 3, my Model Y, and intend to use it on my Rivian when it eventually (some time this decade) gets delivered. My buddy has the same model Juicebox Pro 40 and charges his 2019 Bolt with it every day, he has had zero issues with it and also got the $500 rebate for it which brought his cost down to $50 for the unit.
 

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Question - did you have the 1st Mustart version known to have overheating issues or the 2nd version? I bought the newer version after reading reports about the problems that existed with the old style. The newer one has a nice all metal handle and we've never had a problem in the 1-1/2 years we've owned our Bolt. I'm concerned if your issue was with the new style.
This is a new issue that we have to deal with EVs. In the ICE days, there are multiple ways to mess up your car and engine that wouldn't be covered. It will be a learning curve for us until the dust settles on the best products.
Although I am not the OP, the OP said he bought the EVSE in 2018. This would be an indication that it was version 1 and not the last of the Mustart EVSE.
EVSE L2 exist since 2011 (since the first Volt was put on the market) and the dust settled already, IMO. I bought mine in 2014. At the time there were not many who were good to have in cold weather (the cable becomes stiff in bellow freezing temperatures).
 

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... Not sure how much of the pin is black/corroded. The black on the tip may just be plastic melted. ...says the car port needs replaced @about $1300 installed. ..
This may be a wacky suggestion, but what about making or finding a 'dental tool like' scraper that has the edge 90° to the handle?
Get in there with your magnifying goggles and a bright light and clean that blackened pin!
Do not remove metal, just get it shiny. It's the pin, not the socket. How 'damaged' can a pin be?
The plastic base could possibly be heat damaged around that pin, but if the pin is solid in the connector....what more do you want?

Of course the dealer will recommend spending $1300.

Get your name brand EVSE and test for heat at the pins and sockets with an IR reader.
Unplug and measure after a few minutes and later after a few hours.

This may be a good routine owner inspection item!

And hang in there with getting something mustart. I think there is are reports of them paying repair bills in addition to replacing the EVSE!
 

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This may be a wacky suggestion, but what about making or finding a 'dental tool like' scraper that has the edge 90° to the handle?
Get in there with your magnifying goggles and a bright light and clean that blackened pin!
Do not remove metal, just get it shiny. It's the pin, not the socket. How 'damaged' can a pin be?
The plastic base could possibly be heat damaged around that pin, but if the pin is solid in the connector....what more do you want?
Before scraping, I would try a GOOD electronics cleaner like Deoxit D5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Before scraping, I would try a GOOD electronics cleaner like Deoxit D5.
My dealer has contacted me each day since I took the car in. They have a parts request out to all GM dealers for the car's charging port. After 3 days no dealer has responded. They are unable to order a replacement port from GM as none are available at this time. I'm not sure what to do if we have to wait an extended time for the port. This is my wife's daily commuter car for work. I am tempted to clean the pins as suggested above and continue charging with the level 1 charger that came with the car or get another level 2 charger. My only concern at the moment is that there may be damage that I can't see to the wiring behind the port. It is my understanding that the front fender has to come off to replace the charging port and examine the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Is the Mustart unit UL approved? If so, then Chevy can't tell you it is unsafe to use for charging of your car and deny the warranty repair. If they want to sue Mustart for the damages that is their business. If the Mustart unit is NOT UL approved then it becomes much harder.

Keith
There isn't a UL approval symbol on mine. Here are some pictures of mine. They have discontinued this model that I bought 9 months ago. The new 40 Amp version of this charger shows a UL approval symbol on it. Hmmm. Coincidence?
 

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CE said it was able to ship to the EU so ..

The port and charger seem kind of dirty/dusty. I globed some dielectric silicone in mine. Can't say if that is good or not yet. I keep the charger connector in a holder when not in car and finally inspected it after some of these posts.
 

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If the cause of the damage is the Mustart EVSE, GM has no responsibility in this. Unless you tell me that if I am hit by lightning on your driveway, I am entitled to ask you to pay all my health bills incurred by this incident. Because hey, it happened on your driveway !
GM and dealerships tell customers to pound sand all the time. Even if it’s UL listed that doesn’t gaurentee that singular unit isn’t defective.

If I recall another forum member recently got mustart to pay for similar damages. I think there was a mustart customer service rep quasi-spamming the thread with apologies and claims about a bad batch of EVSEs.
Except GM's warranty is supposed to cover defects with the Bolt, not defects with 3rd party equipment. If something else in my garage catches fire and damages my Bolt, GM wouldn't cover Bolt repairs under warranty.

OP would have to show that the damage came from a defect in the Bolt, not in the Mustart EVSE, for GM's warranty to apply. It doesn't matter how the equipment is rated - what matters is which unit is the source of the damage.
It's really simple. If you are willing to make a stink you will not be taken advantage of. If you are not willing to make a stink you will. How do you know his charge port was not defective and caused the damage to the EVSE? I don't, you don't, and the dealership doesn't know. They are throwing out a generic BS excuse saying that you can only use the stock EVSE or an L2 that they provide... that is a load of BS and they can only get away with it IF YOU LET THEM.

My advise is to call the EV concierge and get them involved.

Keith
 

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There isn't a UL approval symbol on mine. Here are some pictures of mine. They have discontinued this model that I bought 9 months ago. The new 40 Amp version of this charger shows a UL approval symbol on it. Hmmm. Coincidence?
Have you told the dealership "Yeah, I was using and EVSE that is known to over heat and isn't UL approved"? If so, you are out of luck... if not keep your lips sealed.

Keith
 

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It's really simple. If you are willing to make a stink you will not be taken advantage of. If you are not willing to make a stink you will. How do you know his charge port was not defective and caused the damage to the EVSE? I don't, you don't, and the dealership doesn't know. They are throwing out a generic BS excuse saying that you can only use the stock EVSE or an L2 that they provide... that is a load of BS and they can only get away with it IF YOU LET THEM.

My advise is to call the EV concierge and get them involved.

Keith
Complaining until they agree to fix it to get rid of you may very well work, but that’s a far cry from “GM is obligated to fix it because it’s UL listed.”

I’m just not sure GM is at fault here, and while I feel for OP, it’s probably Mustart who should pay, or insurance.
 

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Have you told the dealership "Yeah, I was using and EVSE that is known to over heat and isn't UL approved"? If so, you are out of luck... if not keep your lips sealed.

Keith
Being a squeaky wheel can certainly get you pretty far. But it's a bit of a bluff - you're playing poker to some degree. You know the EVSE is known for overheating problems and is not UL listed, and you hope that GM won't call your bluff by forcing you to answer questions under oath (ie in arbitration).
 

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...The port and charger seem kind of dirty/dusty. I globed some dielectric silicone in mine. ...
Not sure that's a good idea.
Dielectric means 'insulator'. The reason you see this product used is to insulate electrical boots and connections from water getting in and not allow the electrons a path to get out.:oops:

The suggestion of using a 'Deoxit' product is much better.
This product is great! It is a "cleaner, lube and conductivity enhancer" for connectors.
It's used in audio/video consoles to quiet faders/pots. It's used in aviation with sensitive low level connectors in wet environments.
It will keep moisture related corrosion from starting on the pins and sockets in a J1772 connection.
But I'd be worried it might attract dust.

Now that I talk about it I may treat my older EV and EVSE to a dose of Deoxit.
I'll spray it on a cut down Qtip or pipe cleaner and wipe the pins and sockets with it.
I know I don't want to leave them wet with this product, just a light coating.
I'll leave my newer EV and EVSE dry and see how they compare down the road.
 
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... You know the EVSE is known for overheating problems and is not UL listed, and you hope that GM won't call your bluff by forcing you to answer questions under oath (ie in arbitration).
At bit over dramatic, no? "under oath (ie in arbitration)" indeed.:rolleyes:
How many of this brand have had this issue?
How many have not?
How many EVSE available on the US market have this 'UL listing'?
Is that the only Make or Break consideration that gm is looking for?
If so,,
Why is this not in big bold RED letters in the Owner's Manual and tag on the charge port door?
 

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It's really simple. How do you know his charge port was not defective and caused the damage to the EVSE? I don't, you don't, and the dealership doesn't know.
I do know. Here's how.
The charge port in the car is a PIN. Just a simple metal post. The EVSE is a socket. The socket has to have a minimum grip strength to hold the pin. If the connection is making heat, it is not holding tight enough. That CANNOT be the fault of the pin. It cannot be the fault of the port. It cannot be the fault of the car. EVSE is at fault.

Same with a melted outlet. It's always the fault of the outlet for not holding the plug tightly. Or, the fault of the outlet for not holding the service wire tightly.
 

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Good or bad my connector looks clean and no corrosion.

I'd be interested in how people in salt areas do with no sort of maintenance on the connection.
 

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I do know. Here's how.
The charge port in the car is a PIN. Just a simple metal post. The EVSE is a socket. The socket has to have a minimum grip strength to hold the pin. If the connection is making heat, it is not holding tight enough. That CANNOT be the fault of the pin. It cannot be the fault of the port. It cannot be the fault of the car. EVSE is at fault.

Same with a melted outlet. It's always the fault of the outlet for not holding the plug tightly. Or, the fault of the outlet for not holding the service wire tightly.
It's not the Pin, its the socket. I will remember that. 😜
 

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At bit over dramatic, no? "under oath (ie in arbitration)" indeed.:rolleyes:
How many of this brand have had this issue?
How many have not?
How many EVSE available on the US market have this 'UL listing'?
Is that the only Make or Break consideration that gm is looking for?
If so,,
Why is this not in big bold RED letters in the Owner's Manual and tag on the charge port door?
Let's follow the train of thought here.

OP makes a fuss with the dealership that GM should repair damage under warranty. GM refuses. What then?
OP files a complaint the the EV concierge. GM still refuses. What then?
OP files a complaint with BBB or the state attorney general. They send a letter to GM, and GM says the Bolt didn't cause the damage, the EVSE did. GM still refuses to cover the repair. What then?

Does OP file a civil lawsuit or seek arbitration? GM can simply just keep saying "no, the EVSE caused the damage" and the burden is on OP to keep escalating and to prove otherwise.

The whole point is that if push comes to shove, OP will have to show somehow that the Bolt caused the damage, not the EVSE. If OP has to admit that he is aware of the lack of UL listing and the complaints regarding Mustart chargers, he's not going to win that argument.

All of that being said, I still think it's more likely that the EVSE caused the damage in fact. If so, GM shouldn't be expected to cover the repair under warranty, even if it's possible that the OP can argue his way into getting GM to cover it.
 

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"only use the stock EVSE or an L2 that they provide " Yes, sure. So what your saying is using public charging stations voids the warranty? I don't think so. Yup. Dealer BS.
The issue is that if a non-OEM charging station damages the car, then the fault lies with the charging station and you can't expect GM to foot the bill to fix it.

If you use the OEM EVSE and it damages the car, then GM is on the hook for it because they're the ones who sold it to you.
 
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