Chevy Bolt EV Forum banner
  • Hey Guest, welcome to ChevyBolt.org. We encourage you to register to engage in conversations about your Bolt.

Update on the cannot unplug charger from car thread below

10K views 84 replies 33 participants last post by  GJETSON 
#1 ·
Just wanted to update from my thread below about not being able to unplug my car from the Mustart level 2 charger. I had the car hauled to my dealer with the cord still plugged in since it was covered under roadside assistance and the car still has warranty. They were able to pull the charger plug out without breaking anything. The port and plug was not as bad as I was expecting. I have attached some pictures of the port and the plug. Basically, the upper right pin on the car port got too hot at some point. It appears black in the pictures where the others are still brass colored. Not sure how much of the pin is black/corroded. The black on the tip may just be plastic melted. You can see the corresponding socket on the charger plug is also black/corroded. GM, as expected , says the car port needs replaced @about $1300 installed. GM, as expected again, will not warranty the port because it was an aftermarket charger. The dealer is waiting for GM to release which dealer has the part in stock and will release to my dealer. They recommend not charging the car any more until they can evaluate if there is any damage to the wiring behind the charging port. I had my dealer print out what has been done and what needs to be done to gather information to send to Mustart to see if I can get them to pay for the damage to my car. My phone call to Mustart went to voicemail. I will leave a message and email them the photos and information I have from my dealer after they see if there is any more damage behind the port on the car. I asked my dealer what level 2 charger is approved for the Bolt. They only had 1 to choose from and it was a hard wired one. They are currently checking to see if there are any other approved chargers the plug into my wall outlet. I am not expecting any help from Mustart, but maybe I will be surprised. They have a problem with these older chargers and need to get them out of circulation asap. In the first picture below the damaged connector on the charger plug is the upper left one. In the second picture of the car port, the damaged pin is the upper right one.
 

Attachments

See less See more
5
#2 ·
I am sorry you had this much of a trouble.
I would suggest to check ClipperCreek site and chose a L2 EVSE that fits your need. I have mine (LCS-20) for already 8 years now and I never had a problem with it. The service and support is also great. When I decided to buy from them, I called them and they were very professionals.
 
#51 ·
I disagree here, or at least I disagree without a thorough cleaning of the pins on the vehicle inlet. 8 amps is less than 32, but if it's dirty and damaged, you can expect abnormal (but possibly acceptable) heating.

The dark color could be soot or more likely, oxidation.. and soot. Neither conduct electricity well.

If you can't get a new port and decide to clean it, I would suggest an abrasive impregnated nylon brush, sized appropriately, if you can find one. It might be a jewelers sort of thing. Or a wire brush, just recognize that it's poor form to leave broken brass bristles behind.

Good luck. Sorry for your misfortune.
 
#8 ·
Just replace the parts that are bad. You don't need a whole new EVSE, just the J1772 handle. One with good quality pin grip.


I already replaced the handle on my Mustart 32A EVSE for this exact problem- excessive heat on the pins in the charge port.
 
#9 ·
I replaced the handle on my EVSE because the trigger broke. I would not classify replacing the handle as an easy DIY job. I ended up leaving the pins from the old connection because I did not have a crimper to properly re-crimp the pins and in the case of the Mustart I think the Pins are part of the problem. A handle costs about $100 and about 1 hour worth of time. If I was doing it over again I would have just bought a new EVSE rather than just replacing the handle. Or I would have fixed the one I had.
 
#10 ·
I agree that you should go after Mustart first, but failing that, @Kbecker 's suggestion about a possible auto insurance claim is also a good thing to check. It might even be worth finding out if your homeowner's insurance would cover the damage, since the incident occurred in your home. (Although it might not be worth filing a homeowner's insurance claim.)

I disagree that the only thing to repair is the Mustart handle, and I personally wouldn't try charging Level 1 or Level 2 until the wiring behind the charge port has been checked out. The damage doesn't look bad, but it might not be the only damage.
 
#13 ·
I have no experience with Mustart, and I'm not giving them a free pass. But I'd comment that (Americans, especially) have a background of a very sloppy/tolerant experience inserting and removing 5-15 household plugs. Back before required grounding, you could hold the plug even more diagonally to insert and remove it. It can't help that the J1772 has such long pins and such imbalance between the weight of the cable and the open end of the plug. Unless you approach plugging in your EV with a little more .... methodical procedure ... it's not going to help extend the life of these components. If you used to work in a factory, or at NASA, or even RV's, you would not approach the connection as a casual affair. Not criticizing, just commenting.
 
#15 ·
Is the Mustart unit UL approved? If so, then Chevy can't tell you it is unsafe to use for charging of your car and deny the warranty repair. If they want to sue Mustart for the damages that is their business. If the Mustart unit is NOT UL approved then it becomes much harder.

Keith
 
#16 ·
GM and dealerships tell customers to pound sand all the time. Even if it’s UL listed that doesn’t gaurentee that singular unit isn’t defective.

If I recall another forum member recently got mustart to pay for similar damages. I think there was a mustart customer service rep quasi-spamming the thread with apologies and claims about a bad batch of EVSEs.
 
#20 ·
Just wanted to update from my thread below about not being able to unplug my car from the Mustart level 2 charger. I had the car hauled to my dealer with the cord still plugged in since it was covered under roadside assistance and the car still has warranty.
Question - did you have the 1st Mustart version known to have overheating issues or the 2nd version? I bought the newer version after reading reports about the problems that existed with the old style. The newer one has a nice all metal handle and we've never had a problem in the 1-1/2 years we've owned our Bolt. I'm concerned if your issue was with the new style.
This is a new issue that we have to deal with EVs. In the ICE days, there are multiple ways to mess up your car and engine that wouldn't be covered. It will be a learning curve for us until the dust settles on the best products.
 
#22 ·
Although I am not the OP, the OP said he bought the EVSE in 2018. This would be an indication that it was version 1 and not the last of the Mustart EVSE.
EVSE L2 exist since 2011 (since the first Volt was put on the market) and the dust settled already, IMO. I bought mine in 2014. At the time there were not many who were good to have in cold weather (the cable becomes stiff in bellow freezing temperatures).
 
#21 ·
OP check with your local power utility as they might have a rebate program running for approved EVSE's.

I purchased a Juicebox Pro 40 for $550 and got a rebate check for $500 back from my utility. Juicebox is a well respected brand with a good warranty and high quality components. I used mine on my Bolt (from 2017 up to 2020 when I sold it), never a hiccup. Still use it on my i3 (charging at 32amps), I've used it on our Model 3, my Model Y, and intend to use it on my Rivian when it eventually (some time this decade) gets delivered. My buddy has the same model Juicebox Pro 40 and charges his 2019 Bolt with it every day, he has had zero issues with it and also got the $500 rebate for it which brought his cost down to $50 for the unit.
 
#23 ·
... Not sure how much of the pin is black/corroded. The black on the tip may just be plastic melted. ...says the car port needs replaced @about $1300 installed. ..
This may be a wacky suggestion, but what about making or finding a 'dental tool like' scraper that has the edge 90° to the handle?
Get in there with your magnifying goggles and a bright light and clean that blackened pin!
Do not remove metal, just get it shiny. It's the pin, not the socket. How 'damaged' can a pin be?
The plastic base could possibly be heat damaged around that pin, but if the pin is solid in the connector....what more do you want?

Of course the dealer will recommend spending $1300.

Get your name brand EVSE and test for heat at the pins and sockets with an IR reader.
Unplug and measure after a few minutes and later after a few hours.

This may be a good routine owner inspection item!

And hang in there with getting something mustart. I think there is are reports of them paying repair bills in addition to replacing the EVSE!
 
#24 ·
This may be a wacky suggestion, but what about making or finding a 'dental tool like' scraper that has the edge 90° to the handle?
Get in there with your magnifying goggles and a bright light and clean that blackened pin!
Do not remove metal, just get it shiny. It's the pin, not the socket. How 'damaged' can a pin be?
The plastic base could possibly be heat damaged around that pin, but if the pin is solid in the connector....what more do you want?
Before scraping, I would try a GOOD electronics cleaner like Deoxit D5.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ElderGeek
#27 ·
CE said it was able to ship to the EU so ..

The port and charger seem kind of dirty/dusty. I globed some dielectric silicone in mine. Can't say if that is good or not yet. I keep the charger connector in a holder when not in car and finally inspected it after some of these posts.
 
#33 ·
...The port and charger seem kind of dirty/dusty. I globed some dielectric silicone in mine. ...
Not sure that's a good idea.
Dielectric means 'insulator'. The reason you see this product used is to insulate electrical boots and connections from water getting in and not allow the electrons a path to get out.:oops:

The suggestion of using a 'Deoxit' product is much better.
This product is great! It is a "cleaner, lube and conductivity enhancer" for connectors.
It's used in audio/video consoles to quiet faders/pots. It's used in aviation with sensitive low level connectors in wet environments.
It will keep moisture related corrosion from starting on the pins and sockets in a J1772 connection.
But I'd be worried it might attract dust.

Now that I talk about it I may treat my older EV and EVSE to a dose of Deoxit.
I'll spray it on a cut down Qtip or pipe cleaner and wipe the pins and sockets with it.
I know I don't want to leave them wet with this product, just a light coating.
I'll leave my newer EV and EVSE dry and see how they compare down the road.
 
  • Like
Reactions: neutrondrip
#59 ·
OK Gang,

I got a reply on trying to find bare J1172 pins to use as 'Pin Grip' testers.

Rectangle Font Parallel Cross Slope

____

The Ground Pin is smaller diameter than the power handling L1 and L2 pins.
An owner would only need one of the power pins to use as a tester.
These pins are available in different amperage, but I believe that is only due to the size of the wire to be crimped to the pin.

I'm not making this purchase from china.
I'll keep searching electrical supply sources.

The actual Pin diameter is probably a common size. If I can find the spec for that dia. a drill bit size might be the same. You'd want to angle the end similar to the actual pins, tape up the cutting end of the bit and ,,, you have a Pin Grip tester!

But then any EVSE can have a bad crimp at the wire/pin connection.
That can only be tested with an IR Temp Reader after charging for a while at full current.
 
#60 ·
OK Gang,

I got a reply on trying to find bare J1172 pins to use as 'Pin Grip' testers.

View attachment 42494
____

The Ground Pin is smaller diameter than the power handling L1 and L2 pins.
An owner would only need one of the power pins to use as a tester.
These pins are available in different amperage, but I believe that is only due to the size of the wire to be crimped to the pin.

I'm not making this purchase from china.
I'll keep searching electrical supply sources.

The actual Pin diameter is probably a common size. If I can find the spec for that dia. a drill bit size might be the same. You'd want to angle the end similar to the actual pins, tape up the cutting end of the bit and ,,, you have a Pin Grip tester!

But then any EVSE can have a bad crimp at the wire/pin connection.
That can only be tested with an IR Temp Reader after charging for a while at full current.
Have you considered just purchasing a complete J1772 inlet assembly? Most seem to come disassembled and could be much less expensive than that quote.
 
#71 ·
It sounds like a there is a good argument that EV manufactures are going to need add temperature sensing to send a shutdown or reduce charge rate message to the EVSE if the inlet port starts to overheat. EVSE manufacturers should also add temp sensing to their charge plugs. A perfect solution, no, but perhaps a good idea.
 
#72 ·
... EV manufactures are going to need add temperature sensing to send a shutdown or reduce charge rate message to the EVSE if the inlet port starts to overheat. ...
Well, technically,, (I'm that guy...) the EVSE sends the car it's rated current. It's a one-way pilot signal, iirc.
The Onboard Charger handles all the current usage control. The EVSE is just ON - OFF power relay.

I agree. Small built in temp sensors would end these melt downs.
 
#78 ·
Why not a temperature sensor on both sides - the EVSE and the charge port? It's clearly a failure mode that seems more common (given the variety of EVSE manufacturers of varying reliability) compared to gas station pumps. So it would actually take 2 sensor / safety system failures for this type of event to occur. I'm sure NHTSA could do a cost-benefit analysis of the cost of the additional sensor vs the benefit in avoided damages. If the cost-benefit isn't there, we'll have to live with the occasional failure then.
 
#79 ·
Why not a temperature sensor on both sides
The prime tech EVSE model I used had a temp sensor on it to turn it off. I had issues with moisture in the handle and I returned it a got the regular EVSE without the sensor. Which may or may not have anything to do with the sensor.
If your charge shuts off and you get no notice, it could be moisture in the handle. Once you te plug it back in the charge works again for awhile. I blew it off with a hair dryer and it worked until the next heavy rain.
The new EVSE without the sensor has worked fine for months.
Temp sensors are good they just have to do it right
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top