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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I found multiple reports of non-working USB ports on this forum, which is pretty sad. And of course I would not be writing this if I didn't have the same issue. Bought a used Bolt with ~50K miles, and found out the USB ports are busted. I am confident I can fix that myself though.

With the help of this guide - Center Console Removal and Hidden USB Hub - I was able to extract the USB hub module from the console middle frame. Part number 13519224 - very likely there are other compatible part numbers, for ex. 13509942, 23217326, 13509943, etc. Not sure why they made so many identical items with different part numbers (except color).
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Hardest part was taking apart the shifter - the very first step. I am used to taking apart electronics, but here my usual "credit card" method did not work. I ended up taking a thicker piece of plastic I had in garage, cutting it so it has a somewhat sharp edge, and applying slightly more force than I am used to with electronics - I was afraid I'd break it but so far so good. You need to pull up and outward to unlock the top shifter cover (not the silver part! that should stay), there's no use sliding the tool left and right, clips are very sturdy and won't bend - the top cover itself is supposed to flex and unlock from them.

What I found after inspecting mini USB connection was that a couple of contacts oxidized (power and data) - on both the plug and the socket.
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I will try to fix this with some small tools and see if this recovers USB functionality for me.

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UPD2: upon further inspection it turned out to not be the only problem. The USB hub + aux assembly it quite interesting. It's a 2 board sandwitch - one board has mini USB towards infotainment side and provides 2 USB-A ports, and the other has a wide 6pin connector input from infotainment side and provides AUX input.
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My buddy Alexey helped me with diagnostics. Here's what we found: turns out these two boards can't work without one another, or at least USB cannot work without AUX board - power to USB ports comes from the AUX board via sandwich connector pins. Initially I tried to test the USB board with my PC but that was pointless. Power from mini USB is not used (for USB ports at least). AUX board gets 12V from the wide 6pin connector, which in practice only has 2 pins / 2 wires - 12V and ground.
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We believe AUX board has a 12V to 5V converter. In my case the oxidation was only part of the problem - turns out that converter doesn't work, and on USB board there is also a current limiter close to USB ports which is also busted. We think USB got shorted and that blew up both the current limiter on USB board (which is supposed to protect from short circuit) AND the 12V -> 5V converter on AUX board.
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We decided it's not worth the effort to repair. Luckily these sandwiches are pretty cheap. I will try to order and use this one I found on eBay.
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Esp. cool that it's white, cuz I have a white car and light interior :) It looks identical to mine fro mall sides & connector-wise so should hopefully just work. If not I will order a black one for "Bolt" specifically - see a couple selling for ~$50.

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By the way - USB fuse (interior fuse box, slot 23) is a lie. At least for trim w/o rear charging usb ports. I was quite surprized that there was no fuse in this slot and thought that's a problem. It was not - there was 12V power on 6pin connector and 5V on the usb connector even without the fuse. Maybe this fuse is there when extra rear seat USBs are present? No idea.
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I will update the post with pictures and more info as I work on resolving this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I've added pics and more info. Next update - when I get a replacement module from ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
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My replacement white (yay!) USB hub arrived, and guess what - it works no problem. I wonder if the previous owner of the car sold it as trade-in because he couldn't tolerate the stuck / freezing / restarting infotainment anymore, but all he needed to do was to replace the broken hub - for $25! I've driven today and confirmed that there's no screen freeze with the new hub.

I hope this investigation will help other people with USB and infotainment issues!
 

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My USB ports (2019 LT with 20K miles) started working intermittently then not at all about a month ago. Took it to the dealer today and after 2.5 hours and a new USB port, still not working. They have submitted a "technical service request" to GM central for guidance and I have to bring the car back for a whole day drop off in the future. If I provide them with your investigation above it will help or will they just blow me off? I suspect it is a similar or same issue....
 

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My USB ports (2019 LT with 20K miles) started working intermittently then not at all about a month ago. Took it to the dealer today and after 2.5 hours and a new USB port, still not working. They have submitted a "technical service request" to GM central for guidance and I have to bring the car back for a whole day drop off in the future. If I provide them with your investigation above it will help or will they just blow me off? I suspect it is a similar or same issue....
Did you try a premium quality USB cable? I was using the Ampere app to monitor my usb port as it seemed to be getting worse and worse, and Android Auto either wouldn't work at all or would frequently stop. The app indicated the port was only charging at 450 to 600 mA, and would intermittently drop to 0. I got 4 usb cables lying around the house, tried them all in the port and found one that works rock solid. Charges at 1100-1200 mA, AA always starts and is never dropped. That's the cable I keep in the car. It sure fixed my usb "port" problem. I was thinking the problem was the car, but it was the cable. That's what I would try first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
My USB ports (2019 LT with 20K miles) started working intermittently then not at all about a month ago. Took it to the dealer today and after 2.5 hours and a new USB port, still not working. They have submitted a "technical service request" to GM central for guidance and I have to bring the car back for a whole day drop off in the future. If I provide them with your investigation above it will help or will they just blow me off? I suspect it is a similar or same issue....
There's a saying: "When in Rome, do as the Romans do". So I wouldn't attempt to teach the teachers, i.e. tell service technicians what they are supposed to know and be capable of - unless you're in good relationship with a particular person and know he/she will be open to this. If you have hands growing from right place and have experience taking apart stuff without breaking it - I'd recommend following the disassembly guide and inspecting everything yourself, at least on the middle console side, w/o taking apart the infotainment side. I for example purchased a small mini-usb female extension, and soldered to a USB-A female port I had left (you can buy a USB extension for this). This allowed me to test the infotainment USB wire directly, bypassing the USB hub. If you have a cable like this then you can test whether the issue is with the hub or with the mini-usb cable/infotainment side. This will allow you to isolate the issue and worst case just buy a replacement yourself for $25. Imho it's not worth the effort to spend time going to the service if it's just an issue with the hub. If it's not just the hub, then either disassemble further, or call it a day, put stuff back together and rely on your GM service.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
30190
this is what you need to test mini-usb cable coming to the middle console - or smth similar but with cable between ports. My longer response awaits moderator approval for some reason.
 
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