Or you could just get yourself a small generator. It would probably cost less than $200 and save messing with your Bolt.
Yup. It's why I derated the 260kWh total in my "system" to about 100kWh. (3kWh a day for 31 days.)A reminder...you can't get 60 kWh out of these systems. There are inefficiencies in the DC-DC and the inverter, and standby losses from the Bolt's 12V systems....you might get 60-70% out at high loads, at low loads you will drop to closer to 50% system efficiency.
Think 300W for 100 hours, or 600 W for 60 hours, etc. Conservatively.
And I think the highest continuous load is ~1150-1200W AC, above that you will start to draw the AGM down.
Keep in mind that these sine wave inverters are about 82-85% efficient.Yup. It's why I derated the 260kWh total in my "system" to about 100kWh. (3kWh a day for 31 days.)
I've also read elsewhere here that GM engineers have indicated that the DC-DC in the Bolt is capable of 1600W. The Volt's is, too. That's why the company that makes the Volt inverter wiring harness states that a 1500W inverter is the maximum usable, and provides 120A Anderson connectors. 120A at 12V is 1440W. Barely adequate, in my estimation, although I wouldn't anticipate pulling 120A, except for surge motor startups.
Absolutely correct. I wouldn't dream of attempting to pull even half of the 1500W inverter output on a continuing basis. I'd plug my Kill-a Watt meter into the inverter, then loads into the meter, to be certain I wasn't doing anything beyond what I'm comfortable with. With power devices, I typically spec twice the capability of what I'm expecting to actually use. In my experience, you can usually count on US manufactured goods to have significant design margin built into their products. I've found that the cheap Chinese stuff typically has no performance margin whatsoever, and in fact often don't even meet the basic design specs. Let the buyer beware.Keep in mind that these sine wave inverters are about 82-85% efficient.
So at 1440 W output, they would need 120A/0.82 = 146 A input at 12V. !
Equivalently, 1600 W at 12V = 133A, and after the inverter it is 1600W*0.82 = 1300W.
I know I ran a 1200W space heater on mine, and voltage on the 12V battery was slowly drooping over the course of an hour. I figured that the DC-DC was 1500W out, and I was pulling the AGM down.
Have you tried putting the car into Neutral but fasten the drivers seat belt to prevent the car from shutting off?I modified the procedure a bit. I've chosen to shift the Bolt into "L" before exiting from the passenger side, instead of "N". I'm doing this because the Bolt will hold its position when in "L", and it won't while in "N". I don't know if there's any power use difference between the two. (If any of you know, please speak up.) Of course, the Bolt has the parking brake set in either case.
Nope. I hadn't seen that fastening the seat belt was necessary in either case, or in any of the previously posted "procedures". I ran my setup (in "L") for three hours, and the Bolt didn't shut down. I chose "L" because my driveway has a slope, and I don't have any effective wheel chocks to back up the parking brake. I just ordered some to be added to my emergency kit.Have you tried putting the car into Neutral but fasten the drivers seat belt to prevent the car from shutting off?