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All I know is, my 2006 Pontiac Solstice came with an AC Delco battery (not AGM) and that sucker lasted eleven years! Just replaced it with a Sears Diehard. The AC Delco battery and the Diehard are both made by the same manufacturer, Johnson Controls so that's why I chose it. I haven't checked the brand in the Bolt, but hope and pray it's an AC Delco made by Johnson Controls. ;)
 

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AGM Battery life

Mazda Miatas used AGM batteries from the 1990 MY through 2015. They are mounted in the trunks of these cars. I have been a long-term owner of NA and NB models and they have lasted in excess of 10 years. Keep them out of the heat and don't deep cycle them for best results.
 

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As for running a big inverter....I got this one:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-1500W-Power-Inverter-DC-AC/dp/B008JGE8LE/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1514751540&sr=1-2&keywords=tiger+claw+1500W[/ame]

which is 1500W/3000W surge and **pure sine**. Good for peace of mind...I am convinced its cleaner power than I get from the grid!

Keep in mind that the 1500W rating is output. Given the 85% eff factor...1500W out is 1500/.85 = 1764W input....in excess of the onboard DC-DC.

Fortunately, this inverter trips on sustained loads of 1400W or so (the rating is exaggerated), and this is darned close to the nominal 1600W of the DC-DC. Also, it is unlikely that I would run the load right at the trip limit of the inverter for long periods....should be good.

The rest of the rig is some heavy cables, a 200A slow-blow fuse, a RFI filter+surge suppressor and a Kill-a-Watt meter on the output.

I have a backfeed interlock and a 120V suicide cord to feed both phases of my box in phase....this allows all my 120V appliances to work, while all the 240V ones are dead. (I switch their breakers off anyway).

I haven't had an outage since getting the Bolt, but ran my house 120V loads happily for many hours on my 2013 LEAF (with an identical DC-DC rating).

Another factor....there are conversion losses in the DC-DC and in the inverter, along with parasitic loads of the vehicle itself when it is in 'on'. At the end of the day it is hard to do better than 60% efficiency running a few hundred watts of load. So, you can't get 60 kWh out, but 30 kWh (or 100 hours at my typical 300W consumption) is no problem.

:nerd:
 

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Yup.

On the LEAF, the car would stay in 'P', with the parking brake set, and no pedestrian warning sound, indefinitely with the key in the car (and the car in my garage). I hooked the inverter input to the 12V battery using 2 AWG cables and heavy-duty clamps. On the LEAF it is important to put the neg clamp on the chassis, and not the neg battery post....the car monitors current into and out of the battery with a shunt on the negative post and will throw a code if it thinks the batt is pulling all that current.

On the Bolt, same deal, same sized DC-DC, pos battery terminal and neg 'jumpstarting stud' front and center when you lok under the hood. There is some funky shunt on the positive terminal, but clamping directly to the pos terminal and pulling out a kWh does not appear to throw a code. Kinda a PITA to put it in neutral and climb out the passenger side (to avoid the 2 hour P timer), but easier I guess than faffing around with a hungry, loud, smelly genny while standing in a rainstorm.

And now I can run all my 120V loads for 3-4 days, versus 1.5 with the LEAF.

I will need to assess the standby load with the car in N long-duration in a benign thermal environment with all accessories off. I would bet it is higher than the LEAF (which seemed about 120W IIRC).
 

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First, THANK YOU to Pete for this video, to quote someone above "too much goodness" in such a short time. Yes, am getting a 1500 watt inverter :). And how about this for ignorant sales a dealership, he said to me while I was test driving it to always drive it in D because L doesn't provide as much regenerative charging. I just smiled.
 

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I watched the battery dissambly on utube. Or part of it.

The first question that came to mind was how do those electronic circuits and screws, etc survive thousands of miles of road bumps?

I suppose you could ask the same question of ICE cars as well.
 

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As for running a big inverter....I got this one:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-1500W-Power-Inverter-DC-AC/dp/B008JGE8LE/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1514751540&sr=1-2&keywords=tiger+claw+1500W[/ame]

which is 1500W/3000W surge and pure sine. Good for peace of mind...I am convinced its cleaner power than I get from the grid!

Keep in mind that the 1500W rating is output. Given the 85% eff factor...1500W out is 1500/.85 = 1764W input....in excess of the onboard DC-DC.

Fortunately, this inverter trips on sustained loads of 1400W or so (the rating is exaggerated), and this is darned close to the nominal 1600W of the DC-DC. Also, it is unlikely that I would run the load right at the trip limit of the inverter for long periods....should be good.

The rest of the rig is some heavy cables, a 200A slow-blow fuse, a RFI filter+surge suppressor and a Kill-a-Watt meter on the output.

I have a backfeed interlock and a 120V suicide cord to feed both phases of my box in phase....this allows all my 120V appliances to work, while all the 240V ones are dead. (I switch their breakers off anyway).

I haven't had an outage since getting the Bolt, but ran my house 120V loads happily for many hours on my 2013 LEAF (with an identical DC-DC rating).

Another factor....there are conversion losses in the DC-DC and in the inverter, along with parasitic loads of the vehicle itself when it is in 'on'. At the end of the day it is hard to do better than 60% efficiency running a few hundred watts of load. So, you can't get 60 kWh out, but 30 kWh (or 100 hours at my typical 300W consumption) is no problem.

🤓
I am also a converted LEAF owner and was looking for a place to mount my 1200 watt inverter. The inverter does not appear to be waterproof and I assume that the "engine" compartment in the Bolt would be subject to getting wet in a hard rain. I would very much like to permanently mount the inverter somewhere in the Bolt but can't find a good place without running extensive wiring to the trunk area. Has anyone found a good location to mount an inverter perhaps in the area under the dash or seats? The alternative is to install a quick disconnect with plans to temporarily place it on top of the Bolt "engine" when in use. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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I am also a converted LEAF owner and was looking for a place to mount my 1200 watt inverter. The inverter does not appear to be waterproof and I assume that the "engine" compartment in the Bolt would be subject to getting wet in a hard rain. I would very much like to permanently mount the inverter somewhere in the Bolt but can't find a good place without running extensive wiring to the trunk area. Has anyone found a good location to mount an inverter perhaps in the area under the dash or seats? The alternative is to install a quick disconnect with plans to temporarily place it on top of the Bolt "engine" when in use. Any help would be much appreciated.
I bought some huge alligator clips for when I occasionally need to use my 1500W inverter. It's a fun trick for if you want to make an espresso.
 

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Here's my story, I got a Xantrex Prowatt 2000 inverter, connected it at the battery connectors with #4 battery cable. Had to remove the 12v battery connectors completely from the battery and remove the square head bolts and replaced them with slightly longer hex bolts so that I could reconnect the the Bolt's battery connectors and still be able to screw the cables from the inverter when needed. The stock battery connector square bolts are to short to be able to screw anything on to them, but now I can. There was no adverse effect caused by removing the 12v battery from the Bolt. I noted that the battery pressure indicators showed dashes where there was a 38 before. But the dashes turned to numbers as soon as I moved the Bolt. I first connected a small load to the inverter with the Bolt in the off position. I had my fluke on the battery terminals and in less than a minute I could see the 13.1 volts dropping fast. I stopped it and turned on the Bolt noted that the battery started charging right away. I then did the same test with the Bolt on and all ok. Increased the load to 1200 watts and and ran it for a few minutes with no problem. BTW the load was my refrigerator and a small convection heater. Since then I've learned to also turn off the entertainment system to conserve. Overall am quite happy and waiting for the next power outage to connect and extension from the garage to the kitchen refrigerator :)
BTW, I didn't check to see how much power was used from the propulsion battery or what was the rate of discharge when the inverter was running. I should have but was so excited all was working. Will measure next time. Here's a couple of pics.
 

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