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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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That's a great deal! I have a couple of those units, and they have been very reliable since buying our Leaf 6 years ago. Not as trim or easy to stow away like a ClipperCreek unit, but hey, look how many are being used, and out in the weather via the West Coast Electric Hwy system.
 

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In fact, I'm a big fan of "dumb" EVSE's. But since Bolts can't be set to a slower L2 charge rate using the car's own interface, I'd at least want (annoying to get to) dip switches inside the EVSE box to choose a lower rate of charge. (I'm retired, in a dense suburb, so I only charge about once a week, to 80%, at 24 Amps, despite my 50 Amp garage outlet. I chose Grizzl-E Avalanche, but that's not right for everyone.) I'm just warning a first-time EV owner to be sure they know what charge current they will be using for a few years, if the EVSE has no post-purchase current selection choice.
 

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In fact, I'm a big fan of "dumb" EVSE's. But since Bolts can't be set to a slower L2 charge rate using the car's own interface, I'd at least want (annoying to get to) dip switches inside the EVSE box to choose a lower rate of charge. (I'm retired, in a dense suburb, so I only charge about once a week, to 80%, at 24 Amps, despite my 50 Amp garage outlet. I chose Grizzl-E Avalanche, but that's not right for everyone.) I'm just warning a first-time EV owner to be sure they know what charge current they will be using for a few years, if the EVSE has no post-purchase current selection choice.
If you have free L2 charging near a grocery store, just make it part of your weekly grocery trip - watch movie in your car for hour and a half and then go inside and buy groceries. Do this when the grocery store is least busy, though, so those who are working can have a chance at free charging. LOL
 

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In fact, I'm a big fan of "dumb" EVSE's. But since Bolts can't be set to a slower L2 charge rate using the car's own interface....
You can set a lower power delivery rate on the power supply if it’s adjustable, but it really does not matter.

If your dumb EVSE is set to deliver 40 amps, the car is only going to accept 32 amps.

You’re not alone in wanting to do this, but I think it’s unimportant. IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
You can set a lower power delivery rate on the power supply if it’s adjustable, but it really does not matter.

If your dumb EVSE is set to deliver 40 amps, the car is only going to accept 32 amps.

You’re not alone in wanting to do this, but I think it’s unimportant. IMHO.
These are really dumb. I do not believe they are adjustable.
 

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But since Bolts can't be set to a slower L2 charge rate using the car's own interface, I'd at least want (annoying to get to) dip switches inside the EVSE box to choose a lower rate of charge.
Occurred to me that it's the car that does the limiting of amperage per the EVSE's request. That's a big oversight to not have that as a settable option in the car's interface. Guessing GM wants the responsibility for limiting amperage on the EVSE and not the car. Even though the car does the actual limiting. Odd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What would be the point of adjusting the amperage on the car charger?

If it gets 16 amps, it accepts it. If it gets 40 amps, it cuts it back to 32 amps.
Some people apparently think 7.6kW is just too much power to draw all the time.

There are also Tesla users who are too cheap get the proper adapters and use the 14-50 plug on circuits rated less than 40A.
 

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Some people apparently think 7.6kW is just too much power to draw all the time.

There are also Tesla users who are too cheap get the proper adapters and use the 14-50 plug on circuits rated less than 40A.
Tesla, you can dial your desired Amp in the car, right?
 

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What would be the point of adjusting the amperage on the car charger?

If it gets 16 amps, it accepts it. If it gets 40 amps, it cuts it back to 32 amps.
I’m not concerned about the Bolt exploding! I charge to 80% at 24 amps in the hope of extending the battery life. For my usage, I still get an overnight charge, weekly. My outlet is 50 amps.
 

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What would be the point of adjusting the amperage on the car charger?

If it gets 16 amps, it accepts it. If it gets 40 amps, it cuts it back to 32 amps.
That's not how it works. The EVSE sends a pilot signal to the car and the car holds that Amp amount.
The car does not know what the circuit is that is sending it 240V. It needs to be told what the limit is.
 
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Some people apparently think 7.6kW is just too much power to draw all the time.

There are also Tesla users who are too cheap get the proper adapters and use the 14-50 plug on circuits rated less than 40A.
To some extent, I think we just like to complain where it is an easy thing to do. 🤷

That's not how it works. The EVSE sends a pilot signal to the car and the car holds that Amp amount.
The car does not know what the circuit is that is sending it 240V. It needs to be told what the limit is.
I’m sure you would not have said that if you did not know it, but there are people who know a lot more than I do, and they maintain that the car will limit itself to something like 7.68 kW, and 32 amps, and that an over voltage alarm will activate at something like 264 volts.

My circuit is 258 volts and 40 amps. I do not know why it is 258 volts unless there is a transformer about to give way, somewhere down the line.

When the car is turned on, the charging rate that it reports fluctuates between 7 and 8 kW. I’ve assumed from what other people have said that the car is estimating the maximum 7.68 (or whatever it is) as 8 kW.

If what you typed is correct as you typed it, wouldn’t the car report 10 kW ?

From what you typed, I believe that a casual reader would assume that the car will accept higher limits than what we have been told in the past.

Do you think that I should open my Grizzl-E and change the dip switches from 40 amps to 32 amps?
 

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...Do you think that I should open my Grizzl-E and change the dip switches from 40 amps to 32 amps?
No. You're right. The car does have the 32 amp upper limit.
Anything lower amp limit has to come from the EVSE in the pilot signal.
But then,,, if your EVSE is on a 40A circuit it should not be plugged into a car capable of drawing 40A or more.
So, maybe if your EVSE is on a 40A then yes, set it internally to 32A if possible.
But you know this..... (y) ;)
 

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My circuit is 258 volts and 40 amps. I do not know why it is 258 volts unless there is a transformer about to give way, somewhere down the line.
I used to work in an office with a guy who also owned an electrical motor repair business. He said he could always tell when the local electrical utility was having distribution problems somewhere in town because he would get like 10-20 industrial motors to repair in the same week, all from business along the same stretch of road. None of the customers knew there was an electrical supply problem; they don't know that the business next door also had a motor fail. His repair business was the single common point for all the motors. Having said that, I think it's low voltage rather than high voltage that usually kills a motor. The motor is born to produce a certain HP, and when the voltage is low the motor must pull more current, which overheats the windings and causes most common failures. (I think.)

And of course this has nothing to do with the traction motor in your Bolt, because it's getting its voltage from the battery and the car's electronics, rather than from your house AC.
 

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Do you think that I should open my Grizzl-E and change the dip switches from 40 amps to 32 amps?
I do not have personal experience, but others have posted (on Amazon, for example) that the weather-seals on the (exterior rated) Grizzl-E box can make it difficult to open and close the cover. They specifically noted a problem with inadvertently changing the position of the (gasketed) acrylic rod that delivers the green pilot LED light to the user, making it look dim. Because I bought my Grizzl-E from the maker, I was able to order it preset to 24 Amps.
 

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