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(last weekend, not today)
Finally got around to completing my plan ever since seeing the bolt front end. Unfortunately, the (2021? 2022?) facelift beat me to it, but I thought of it first. :LOL:

White plasti dip on the upper grill, cuz I'm a p**sy, and wanted to make sure I like it before I colour match it w regular paint (I was gonna just do it off the hop, but apparently it costs >$400CAD to buy a replacement upper "grill" if I didn't like it). White carbon fibre wrap on the lower grill, to (somewhat) carry the dash theme to the exterior. Doesn't really show in the pic, but its much more obvious in person. Thoughts?

I'll likely white-plasti the summer rims this winter, and do the same green "anodize" on the chrome lug nuts, to carry the white out theme to the side. If I like it, following winter I'll get the rims powder coated, since plasti dip is for teenager's civics. ;)

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edit: photo sizing
 

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2017 Chevrolet Bolt LT Summit White
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(last weekend, not today)
Finally got around to completing my plan ever since seeing the bolt front end. Unfortunately, the (2021? 2022?) facelift beat me to it, but I thought of it first. :LOL:

White plasti dip on the upper grill, cuz I'm a p**sy, and wanted to make sure I like it before I colour match it w regular paint (I was gonna just do it off the hop, but apparently it costs >$400CAD to buy a replacement upper "grill" if I didn't like it). White carbon fibre wrap on the lower grill, to (somewhat) carry the dash theme to the exterior. Doesn't really show in the pic, but its much more obvious in person. Thoughts?

I'll likely white-plasti the summer rims this winter, and do the same green "anodize" on the chrome lug nuts, to carry the white out theme to the side. If I like it, following winter I'll get the rims powder coated, since plasti dip is for teenager's civics. ;)

edit: photo sizing
Nice, I got mine used and the upper grille was already white so I plasti-dipped the emblem, I'd love to get a more solid front and actually do like an embedded light up bowtie but that's a lot to do, like cut out and then mold in some leds and paint over so you don't notice until they light up, but again it'd be a lot so happy with this for now :)
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Nice, I got mine used and the upper grille was already white so I plasti-dipped the emblem, I'd love to get a more solid front and actually do like an embedded light up bowtie but that's a lot to do, like cut out and then mold in some leds and paint over so you don't notice until they light up, but again it'd be a lot so happy with this for now :)
View attachment 45566
Thank you. Ya, I like the look of your's much better than stock as well. I originally left the outer piece of the bowtie chrome, and reassembled the front end in my back yard to see what it looked like, but from a distance I found it looked too faint (like, the white paint and the chrome being too indistinguishable), so I went w green. Btw, if you would prefer not to have the black border around your upper grill, you can have that off in like 10 min if you want to paint / plasti it white as well.

Edit: Oh, I forgot to add: I had the exact same thought about the light up emblem, though it's low on my priority list. I separated mine to do the green fake anodize coating on the perimeter (and like you, for now did white plasti dip on the inner portion, since the texture of it doesn't lend itself to sanding in order to get a good bond for paint). When I'm done my current house renos, I'm going to look into it further, but I already talked to a buddy of mine w a 3d printer, and he says he can print clear plastic, so it should be easy enough to get a bunch of measurements to replace the centre piece w a clear printed version and paint white. Choice of light source might be semi-important though, as I kinda think just sinking in a couple leds will result in a more "pin-point of light" effect, as opposed to an even distribution. EL wire is likely too dim to show through paint though, so many smd-leds is probably the best bet.
 

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Thank you. Ya, I like the look of your's much better than stock as well. I originally left the outer piece of the bowtie chrome, and reassembled the front end in my back yard to see what it looked like, but from a distance I found it looked too faint (like, the white paint and the chrome being too indistinguishable), so I went w green. Btw, if you would prefer not to have the black border around your upper grill, you can have that off in like 10 min if you want to paint / plasti it white as well.

Edit: Oh, I forgot to add: I had the exact same thought about the light up emblem, though it's low on my priority list. I separated mine to do the green fake anodize coating on the perimeter (and like you, for now did white plasti dip on the inner portion, since the texture of it doesn't lend itself to sanding in order to get a good bond for paint). When I'm done my current house renos, I'm going to look into it further, but I already talked to a buddy of mine w a 3d printer, and he says he can print clear plastic, so it should be easy enough to get a bunch of measurements to replace the centre piece w a clear printed version and paint white. Choice of light source might be semi-important though, as I kinda think just sinking in a couple leds will result in a more "pin-point of light" effect, as opposed to an even distribution. EL wire is likely too dim to show through paint though, so many smd-leds is probably the best bet.
Maybe use a programmable RGB led matrix as your light source? That would give you lots of options for how it looks.
 

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Edit: Oh, I forgot to add: I had the exact same thought about the light up emblem, though it's low on my priority list. I separated mine to do the green fake anodize coating on the perimeter (and like you, for now did white plasti dip on the inner portion, since the texture of it doesn't lend itself to sanding in order to get a good bond for paint). When I'm done my current house renos, I'm going to look into it further, but I already talked to a buddy of mine w a 3d printer, and he says he can print clear plastic, so it should be easy enough to get a bunch of measurements to replace the centre piece w a clear printed version and paint white. Choice of light source might be semi-important though, as I kinda think just sinking in a couple leds will result in a more "pin-point of light" effect, as opposed to an even distribution. EL wire is likely too dim to show through paint though, so many smd-leds is probably the best bet.
Yeah I'd got the LED blazer emblem and it's really dim in daylight, especially compared to our DRL halos, want something almost as bright as those to match. I wouldn't mind pintpoints too much as again our halos kind of have that.

Maybe use a programmable RGB led matrix as your light source? That would give you lots of options for how it looks.
Oh nice! Could go all out and make the whole panel rgb, then could do smilies and custom messages to drivers in front :)(like MOOOVE!!!!)

Actually there is a good bit of room behind the grill, maybe just drill/dremel out the bowtie channel, backfill with clear epoxy or what not, paint, and then put a bright light source behind it, could still be LED but better diffused so as to eliminate the pintpoints. Also if it ever fails you can replace without redoing the whole thing.

Edit: I forgot to add, on the black trim panel, wonder the effort to mold that to the upper grille itself and smooth it out so it looks more cohesive. I get they wanted the floating grille look but to your point the 2022s looks much sleeker.
 

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We got a bedroom, too, for this leg. For Glacier to Seattle, we just got a roomette since it's only overnight.

I did take pics because I like trains, but not to the point of being a Foamer. Ours was a Genesis 1997 vintage.
View attachment 45552

View attachment 45553
I'm a bit of a foamer, and did notice you had a new ALC-42 Charger locomotive trailing the old Genesis. They've had a few problems with their Positive Train Control system, which is probably why the Genesis was on point.

I hope you had a great trip!
 
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I'm a bit of a foamer, and did notice you had a new ALC-42 Charger locomotive trailing the old Genesis. They've had a few problems with their Positive Train Control system, which is probably why the Genesis was on point.

I hope you had a great trip!
It was awesome, thanks! I did notice the newer locomotive, but I wasn't sure if it was there to assist or what.

I am pretty big into Lego trains, since it is the nexus of two things I like a lot. I designed and built a few of these tank cars myself a few years back.
Product Gas Machine Engineering Cylinder


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I also just made some of my own flat cars that haul garbage containers (complete with containers and graffiti stickers) because that's all I see on the rails around here in NJ. :LOL:

The shame and disgrace of that leg of the Amtrak schedule is it makes the most beautiful part of the run in the middle of the night. You should hope it's running eight hours late leaving Spokane.

jack vines
I was surprised to see desert in WA when I woke up. I knew eastern WA is desert-like, but hadn't seen it before. There were a few other parts of the trip that I wanted to see but slept through, like Minneapolis and Fargo.
 
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I was surprised to see desert in WA when I woke up. I knew eastern WA is desert-like, but hadn't seen it before.
Those who've only been to or seen movies of the Pacific coast think it's all rain forest, but the majority of Washington, Oregon and California are deserts.

As to "what did I do to my Bolt today?" Same as every day, just drove it. The only modification is 16" winter tires and wheels.

As to what does it need? I don't like articles/grocery bags/wine carriers sliding around in the rear. I keep meaning to develop an easy-to-use latch for the cargo compartment floor and hooks in each corner to accept a cargo net.



IIRC, these were OEM in Fords back in the bad old days and I saved a couple of them. Anyone done something similar?

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Decided on a cargo box, went with the Thule Motion XT L 16 cu ft.
View attachment 31907
Hey @Jake from State Farm. Thanks for posting pics of the Thule Motion XT L. Looking at buying that soon and measure the front clearance and it was dangerously close to exactly 47.5" which Thule says is the minimum, so I wasn't sure, but was able to see from your photo that it looks like a safe amount clearance from the hatch. Do you have any complaints, or any estimation of your range hit with the cargo box on?
 

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It was a few days ago, but I wrecked it. Came on something large (tire chunk? piece of asphalt from all the construction going on?) and straddled it (no room to move, either side). Tore off all the splash shields and caved in the front of the battery. Dealer service is amazed that it's still working fine, no codes, and not leaking anything. Had the first of probably several discussions with insurance about fixing it - dealer quoted <$14K including a new battery at about $10.5K (add that number to your anecdotes about the actual vs theoretical cost of EV batteries - I was surprised not to see $15K in there). First knee-jerk, of course, was to total it; I pointed out that KBB was $20-22 tradein value, and local sales start at about $28K for a 2017 that's nearly a clone of mine (at an Acura dealer), and they changed tune slightly. We'll see. Nobody hurt, no apparent body or suspension damage. Holding off on getting a lawyer as long as insurance talks sense.
Edit: Chevy needs an actual skid plate under there, not just some cardboard.
 

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It was a few days ago, but I wrecked it. Came on something large (tire chunk? piece of asphalt from all the construction going on?) and straddled it (no room to move, either side). Tore off all the splash shields and caved in the front of the battery. Dealer service is amazed that it's still working fine, no codes, and not leaking anything. Had the first of probably several discussions with insurance about fixing it - dealer quoted <$14K including a new battery at about $10.5K (add that number to your anecdotes about the actual vs theoretical cost of EV batteries - I was surprised not to see $15K in there). First knee-jerk, of course, was to total it; I pointed out that KBB was $20-22 tradein value, and local sales start at about $28K for a 2017 that's nearly a clone of mine (at an Acura dealer), and they changed tune slightly. We'll see. Nobody hurt, no apparent body or suspension damage. Holding off on getting a lawyer as long as insurance talks sense.
Edit: Chevy needs an actual skid plate under there, not just some cardboard.
Oh, that sucks, sorry to hear it.
Don't suppose you're still waiting for your recall pack? Maybe slide the service tech a case of beer if he says it fell off a forklift after removing? 😁
But in all seriousness, if it's operating fine, I wonder what they'd do if you just showed up for a replacement.. "well, it still works fine, so give me the new one. You're just gonna recycle it anyway".
 

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Oh, that sucks, sorry to hear it.
Don't suppose you're still waiting for your recall pack? Maybe slide the service tech a case of beer if he says it fell off a forklift after removing? 😁
But in all seriousness, if it's operating fine, I wonder what they'd do if you just showed up for a replacement.. "well, it still works fine, so give me the new one. You're just gonna recycle it anyway".
Unfortunately, the pack that got banged is the one installed, in January, under the recall. OTOH, the dealer had a boxed pack sitting in the service driveway when I brought it in - probably for somebody's recall job. Wonder if....:unsure:
 

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Installed this 14" rear wiper. I previously went with a 13" but this one works too. You'll need to cut the plastic cover though.
[snipped photos out]
Does this in anyway hurt the rear wiper motor with the added leverage from longer wiper? I have a rear dash cam mounted just inside the rear hatch and having an extra 1"-2" of wiping would be nice to keep the view clear for the rear cam.
 
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